Current Travels

Reaching the Colombian Caribbean

5 to 12 January, 2012 – Tolú, Cartagena (Colombia)



After a long haul on the bus, we arrived at the Caribbean coast, at a town called Tolú. Largely bypassed by foreign visitors, but a popular place with Colombian tourists, the town partied till all hours. Tolú is a base for boat trips to the Islas San Bernardo, tiny Caribbean islands with white sand beaches surrounded by mangroves. Despite the disappointing snorkelling, we had a great day trip, enjoying some sun, some swimming, and a beer or two.

Wonky
Wonky
A pier on a tiny island in the Caribbean archipelago, Islas de San Bernardo, near Tolú, Colombia.


Those parties? They happen anywhere and everywhere. Even at our hotel! One guy had a pair of speakers, about a metre high, in the doorway of his room, plugged in to his laptop. A variety of music blasted out for many hours, on to the terrace and across to all the rooms. Surprisingly, this is not something that a Colombian hotel thinks is a problem. At one point, amongst the random tunes, a couple of tango numbers made an appearance. Jo commented that "Unless they are actually doing a tango, there is no excuse for the music to be that loud." I had to look - and yes, a few couples were out of their rooms and on the terrace, tangoing!

But, it was a nice place to be to celebrate 22 years of marriage – you can't complain when you are at the Caribbean, can you. We did have to leave our anniversary dinner until we were in Cartagena. Limited options in Tolú meant that, despite our seafood stew there being one of the most amazing dishes we have ever eaten, the atmosphere was lacking somewhat.

Cartagena, on the other hand, overflows with atmosphere. The centre is full of centuries old Colonial architecture, photogenic on every turn. It turned in to nearly a full week. Much of that time was spent wandering, exploring, discovering.

Luna Llena
Luna Llena
The full moon rises, Cartagena.


Hamburger Flavoured?
Hamburger Flavoured?
The picture implies it is not just mince meat flavour, but tomato, lettuce, cheese, and bun. That's a lot of tastes to cram in to a chip.


Cheeky
Cheeky
A bat in the old storerooms of a fort near Cartagena, looking up to pose for the camera.


Cartagena
Cartagena
A plaza in Cartagena, Colombia.


Saintly Skull
Saintly Skull
A monk, known for devoting his life ministering to the slaves of Cartagena, now entombed in a glass coffin in the church altar.


Iguana Door Knocker
Iguana Door Knocker
Cartagena, Colombia.


Smiling Wife
Smiling Wife

Kite-surfer at Sunset
Cartagena, Colmobia.
Cartagena, Colmobia.


Cartagena Street-lamp
Cartagena Street-lamp

A One-eyed, One-armed, One-legged Hero
A One-eyed, One-armed, One-legged Hero
Statue of Blas de Lezo. In previous battles, he lost an eye, an arm, and a leg, Despite this, and against all odds (25,000 to 2,500), this Spaniard successfully led the defence of Cartagena from a British naval attack. In the process, he lost his other leg, and ultimately his life. But he did get to become a statue!


Part of the Maze
Part of the Maze
One of the many tunnels that twists and winds underneath Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. This clever network includes dead ends and false passages to confuse attackers, and runs at multiple levels.


The Magnificent Castle of Cartagena
The Magnificent Castle of Cartagena
The Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, an impressive fort of Cartagena. This view is from a nearby shopping centre food court, a nice air conditioned spot for a break and a bite after a few hours exploring.


Cartagena, Colombia
Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena, Colombia
Cartagena, Colombia


There were a couple of day trips, too.

Three Adults Share the Front Seat in a Taxi
Three Adults Share the Front Seat in a Taxi
After a convoluted sequence of transport changes, we ended up in an overloaded and cramped taxi, which then stopped to pick up two more passengers! I really didn't think there was space, but apparently I was wrong.


Mudding Up
Mudding Up
This was in Volcán de Lodo el Totumo., Colombia. After ascending this tiny volcano of mud, we joined the hordes of Colombians and immersed ourselves. The mud was thick, almost like a gel, and kept us extremely buoyant. The bottom could not be touched, but sinking would not even be possible. The biggest danger was letting your feet get near the surface, because the most difficult thing was fighting the tendency to float, and get your legs and feet back down.


Everyone Gets In The Mud
Everyone Gets In The Mud
Fun for all the family. Volcán de Lodo el Totumo, Colombia.


Rinsing Off
Rinsing Off
After the mud bath, it is down to the river to swim yourself clean. Volcán de Lodo el Totumo, Colombia.


On an entirely different note, there are the odd products one finds for sale in foreign countries. I'm not just referring to hamburger flavoured chips, but how about hair products with sheep placenta to help stop hair falling out and encourage regrowth. Or bottles of treatments made from "real duck embryos". Hmmmm....

Gorditos y Casas con Colores

2 to 4 January, 2012 – Medellín, Santa Fe de Antioquia, Guatapé (Colombia)




Toilet Paper Vending Machine
Toilet Paper Vending Machine
We have encountered places where you are required to pay for toilet paper, before, but toilet paper vending machines are common, and in fact, the norm, in Colombia.


Medellín turned out to be a very pleasant city to pass a few days, particularly with the day trips to be had.

Again, as in Bogotá, an appreciation of all things fat is garnered by numerous artworks by Botero. His gordo paintings and sculptures can be found in many nooks and crannies in town, including advertising, but especially in the sculpture park, which is entirely dedicated to him.

Kids with Botero
Kids with Botero
Medellin has a sculpture park full of Botero's gordos (fatties).


A Random Corridor
A Random Corridor
A nice building, open, and we wandered through.


Looking Down - Sculture Park
Looking Down - Sculture Park
Looking down to the park full of Botero sculptures, Medellin.


Candles, Church, Medellin, Colombia
Candles, Church, Medellin, Colombia

Monumento a la Raza
Monumento a la Raza
Impressive and dramatic sculpture in Medellin.


Perhaps typical of cities in this part of the world, we encountered great difficulty in finding somewhere to eat in the centro, particularly later. At 8 p.m., we wandered the streets to find no restaurants open, and the majority of snack bars pulling down their shutters and washing their floors. Finally, one little bar took pity on us. Despite having most chairs on tables and counting the till, they invited us to a table and sold us some empanadas.

The first of two great day trips we made from Medellín was to Santa Fe de Antioquia, and the nearby Puente Occidente. The main transport around town, and to the bridge, is provided by a fleet of seemingly out-of-place Indian styled moto-taxis. Back in Santa Fe, we discussed who might come and visit us in this remote Colombian village if we bought that cute place that was for sale right on the plaza.

Distraction...
Distraction...
Some locals, just out of frame, started telling their friend off for walking in to the shot. They berated him, pointing at Jo and myself, and highlighting his complete lack of awareness!


Puente de Occidente
Puente de Occidente
An impressive 19th century suspension bridge, one of the first on the continent. Now a national monument and closed to traffic.


Church in Santa Fe
Church in Santa Fe
Santa Fe de Antioquia, Colombia.


Santa Fe Streetscape
Santa Fe Streetscape
Santa Fe de Antioquia, Colombia.


Church and Plaza
Church and Plaza
Santa Fe de Antioquia, Colombia.


Comfortable Enough to Sleep
Comfortable Enough to Sleep
But with dolly to keep you company, anywhere can be bed...


Our second full day excursion had us climbing a monolithic rock before heading in to the nearby village of Guatapé. Excuse the large number of photos we have decided to include, but seriously, Guatapé was just too cute for words!

Heading Up to La Piedra, or "The Rock"
Heading Up to La Piedra, or "The Rock"
The approach to La Piedra, from the highway. The greater part of the climb lies ahead.


View From La Piedra
View From La Piedra
The island filled lake spread out below La Piedra, Guatapé, Colombia.


A Couple at the Top of "The Rock"
A Couple at the Top of "The Rock"
Matching blue shirts for the day.


Two Dogs in Gatapé
Two Dogs in Gatapé
The shadow of a street lamp, two dogs, and some painted reliefs, Guatapé, Colombia.


A Music Shop in Guatapé
A Music Shop in Guatapé
Almost all houses and businesses in town have painted reliefs and colourful doors. Guatapé, Colombia.


A Lounging Gatito
A Lounging Gatito
A wriggling and sprawling Colombian cat.


House Decoration
House Decoration
Guatapé, Colombia.


The House Next Door, Guatapé
The House Next Door, Guatapé
Another beautifully decorated home, Guatapé, Colombia. The uniqueness of each home's patterns and colours shows much thought on the part of the residents. Barely a single building lacked some such adornment.


Typical Streetscape
Typical Streetscape
Looking down an average and typical street in Guatapé, Colombia.


Another Guatapé Door – Another Guatapé Animal Lounging
Another Guatapé Door – Another Guatapé Animal Lounging
Sailboats decorate this home, representative of the lake which Guatapé sits beside.


Guatapé Children Doing Homework
Guatapé Children Doing Homework
Christmas decorations yet to be taken down, but it's hard to believe they even feel a need to put any up! The colourful town must always feel ready for a party of some sort.


Guatapé Museum
Guatapé Museum
These painted reliefs decorate the building housing the Museum in Guatapé, Colombia.


Street Lamps
Street Lamps
The glass of the street lamps have been changed to cast Christmas motifs. Guatapé, Colombia.


Colourful Apartment Buildings
Colourful Apartment Buildings
Even the apartment buildings in Guatapé get in on the action.


A Dozen Grapes and Some Whiskey

28 December, 2011 to 1 January, 2012 – Bogotá, Zipaquirá (Colombia)



Bogotá. Contrary to all probable preconceptions, we found ourselves feeling both very safe and very welcome in Bogotá. We are staying in an area north of the centre, about 30 minutes in the "Transmilenio", Bogotá's version of a metro. Couchsurfing courtesy of Isabel.


Downtown Bogotá
Downtown Bogotá

Bogotá Streetscape
Bogotá Streetscape

A Random Courtyard
A Random Courtyard
We spent most of our time in Bogotá in aimless and random wandering. We came across this lovely courtyard, enticed in to the building by an art exhibition.


Me and a Fat Hand
Me and a Fat Hand
At the Museo de Botero, Bogotá. One of Botero's famous gordos.


Monseratte from Museo de Botero
Monseratte from Museo de Botero
Visible from many places in Bogotá, Monseratte tends to pick up the afternoon sun.


Three Characters
Three Characters
In a small plaza in Bogotá. I felt they were an almost unlikely trio of friends. And yet, a fantastic and harmonious company.


Looking to Monseratte
Looking to Monseratte
View from Plaza Bolivar, Bogotá.


Bogotá, from Monseratte
Bogotá, from Monseratte
We joined the hordes on new year's day, and climbed to the white church which watches over the entire city.


One of the best things when travelling is sampling the local delicacies...

Dipping Cheese in Hot Chocolate
Dipping Cheese in Hot Chocolate
A very bogotano dish. It was quite a weird combination. This was in the best place to try such a dish, La Puerta Falsa. The cafe has been in business since 1816.


Another Strange Bogotano Dish
Another Strange Bogotano Dish
Squeaky white cheese, with dulce de leche (caramelised sweetened condensed mild) and strawberry jam. Jo's expression probably sums it up for us.


We made an extremely worthwhile daytrip to nearby Zipaquirá.

Inside the Salt Cathedral
Inside the Salt Cathedral
The cathedral is carved out of an old salt mine, at Zipaquirá. It is a beautiful place to visit. Unfortunately, the photo does not do justice to the scale.


Church Interior
Church Interior
Zipaquirá, near Bogotá.


Zipaquirá Plaza
Zipaquirá Plaza
A day trip from Bogotá.


One of the best things about couchsurfing is the opportunity to gain local knowledge, inside tips, and even be taken to places that you would never get to when passing through as a traveller.

With Isa and Guillermo
With Isa and Guillermo
Isabel is our Bogotá couchsurfing host, and Guillermo is her novio.


Night View Over Bogotá
Night View Over Bogotá


Oh, and those 12 grapes and whiskey? New Years Eve with a Colombian family is going to be different to New Years Eve in Australia. Knowing that we were invited to spend the night with Isabel and her family, and not knowing the way things normally happen, we decided it would be important to not fill up. Parties always have food, and if there is no dinner, we can probably fill up on nibbles, verdad? When we arrived, we could smell delicious odours from the kitchen. We were introduced to the extended family and friends in attendance, and spent some time chatting. But no food. Drinks were offered - whiskey or a soft drink. After a couple of whiskies on our empty stomachs, we both felt we better not drink more before food, otherwise our Spanish would get better, but only for the two of us... Hours later, we counted in the New Year, still with stomachs containing nothing but whiskey, and yet with delicious aromas coming from the kitchen. But, at midnight, there was something that had to be eaten first. A dozen grapes. Nobody told us the significance, but we were just told it was traditional. And then, minutes later, the food began coming out of the kitchen. And what an amazing feast we had. A traditional Colombian stew, to which one could add from a range of bowls. Chicken, corn, avocado, cream, capers. I skipped the capers. It was a wonderfully memorable New Years Eve.