6 to 10 Mar, 2026 - Campo Grande, Bonito - (Brazil)
The Pantanal is huge. About the size of Great Britain, according to my quick Google check. It is a floodplain, the world's largest wetland, and has an extraordinarily high level of biodiversity. So, with only a week or so in the area, we are taking home a taster, at best. Our desire to do other things in the area was another imposition that further constrained our time.
Our first port of call was where we flew in, at Campo Grande, just on the edge of the Pantanal, really. Given a lot more time, we may have made some sort of venture in from this southern city. Instead, we were given an introduction by a visit to the Bioparque Aquarium.
Bioparque Pantanal
In the world's largest freshwater aquarium. The aquarium is part of a bigger museum, but we were primarily here for the aquatic creatures. Amazingly, the visit is free, but you should book in advance as there is a limit. It was not busy when we were there, so our lack of preparedness did not impact.
The focus is on Brazilian freshwater fish, but they had some tanks with samples of species from many other corners of the globe.
Gazing
Bioparque Pantanal, admiring the fish interactions.
Dangerous Animals are a Hit Everyone
Watching caiman from below water level was fascinating. Sitting was aided by using one or two of the provided cushions. Having the glass so close to floor level was fantastic for making the experience accessible for kids, and this window seemed to have them enthralled for longer than other spots.
The caimans would alternate, floating at the top with just eyes and nostrils showing, and then for no reason, they would sink to the bottom where they would sit, equally as motionless. If two or more bumped in to each other, they would just tolerate it, maybe clawing a bit at the other to make some space, but just generally coping with another caiman on their head or tail.
A last minute decision was to get ourselves a rental car for the drive to Bonito. Amazingly, I only accumulated one speeding infringement on this journey. It was a long and not-too-interesting journey and there were many cameras. Ideal conditions for catching travellers who just want to get to the next stop.
While not part of Pantanal directly, Bonito is a source of a lot of the water that goes down there. And water is at the centre of many activities in the area. Pure, crystal clear, warm, and inviting. I'm surprised I didn't end up looking like a prune by the time we flew to the northern Pantanal.
At over 150 metres, this cascade is certainly the tallest waterfall in this region of Brazil. This was our first stop at Boca da Onça.
Every now and then, the air would fill with squawks. Numerous birds would emerge from the jungle and circle, maybe 3 or 4 times, near the upper areas of the falls, before landing in rocky crevices or returning to the trees. The scarlet reds or blues of macaws were easy to pick out, while the darker coloured birds remained largely unidentified. Combined with the filtered sunlight and the noisy birds, this was a delightful first stop on our day trip.
At the back of my mind, though, we have to walk back up. We started at the top of those falls!
First Waterfall, First Swim of the Day
I could not say no to a dip in the natural pool.
Emerging
At this waterfall, we could swim in the cave behind the falls. Even accessing the pool at the base of the falls was a micro-adventure, requiring a swim through a tunnel.
A Scenic Stop
Not all the waterfalls we visited are swimable. Perhaps just as well. I was tiring a bit from the process.
So, this way-point might be labelled as an "admire the pretty waterfall" stop.
Giant Red-winged Grasshopper
One of the largest species of grasshopper in the world.
A Perfect Day for Waterfalls
There was some cloud cover, giving us some protection from sun burn, but enough blue for great photos.
At times like this, I pine for the old SLR. With film, I think the joy of setting up and capturing a scene like this would have been fulfilling, ensuing the light, angle, settings, and interference factors are low, long before pressing the button and using one precious frame.
Swimming Stop Number Five
Or maybe it was number six. The water and air temperatures were ideal, with neither entry nor exit proceedings leaving one feeling cold. But the ritual of footwear and shirts and drying was becoming tedious.
Maybe I'm a social influencer at heart. I honestly think this last swim was only so we could get the picture.
Near the Infinity Edge
The calm, mirror reflection disguises the fact there is a waterfall behind us. A natural infinity edged pool This location is called Janela para o Céu, the Window to the Sky.
The framing of the view out is just spot-on. The canyon below, the mountains in the distance, and the jungle filling all the space between. I was looking forward to this spot, and our opportunity to "dance on the water".
Blue Lake Cave, near Bonito
It's a combination of clear water, natural minerals, and sunlight refraction.
Aquário Natural
Snorkelling in the natural aquarium near Bonito.
Known for exceptional visibility and large numbers of colourful fish. To help preserve the balance, visitors are asked not to be wearing sunscreen or insect repellent before they swim.
Aquário Natural
From down here, you cannot tell that it was raining quite heavily.
We weren't really swimming. It was more of a float. We were encouraged to not kick, not splash, not stand, just using our hands for some minor propulsion. The entire trip consisted of a walk through the forest, then 10 or 15 minutes in a natural pool to get accustomed to the activity. Not so much the snorkelling, but resisting the urge to put your feet down and stand.
From the pool, the float downstream took about an hour. I believe it was almost a kilometre.
Mainly fish, and dominated by three or four types. We were always excited to see the odd stand-out differing species, and would try and catch each other's gaze. In hand gestures we try to enquire of each other while pointing, "did you see that little red one?"
We saw a water snake, too, which was really cool. About 60 or 70 cm long, near the bottom, entirely unbothered by us floating by. It seemed to be searching through the river grasses, perhaps looking for a frog for lunch.
