11 to 15 Jan, 2024 - Salalah, Khasab - (Oman)
Our Oman adventure begins in the city of Salalah, right in the south of Oman. The domestic leg to get here saw us climb out of Muscat quite steeply, banking over the mountain range to the west. Soon after, the peaks and troughs on the landscape below gave way to the vast desolation. Not featureless, though, as the dry watercourses and wadis made interesting shapes and patterns in the rocky plateau.
Our first outing was a drive out the west and north of Salalah. We drove up the switchbacks high above Mughshail beach, before doubling back to stop at the blow holes. The weather today, and tide timing, made them less impressive than their potential, but it was a very pretty spot. We drank amazing ice coffees, and watched a large number of dolphins in the water, not too far from shore.
We left the coastline and went inland to Wadi Dawkah, home of a Frankincense tree grove. I have been intrigued by the possibility of getting up close to these valuable examples of flora since I started reading about this region. In eras past, the ports here were shipping Frankincense out, and bringing spices through from Berbera, Zanzibar, and India.
Oman, From Above
Flying from Muscat to Salalah. The dry watercourses that have been forged by torrential flows scar the barren landscape.
Dromedaries Along the Road
Perhaps the greatest threat when driving in Oman. Even on sunny days with good visibility, they can be difficult to spot, and like most animals, can be unpredictable. At night and during poor weather, they are a significant cause of road trauma.
Rugged Coastline, Mugshail
Dramatic cliffs as viewed from the Mugshail Blowholes.
Not Their Usual Setting
We don't expect to find camels on the beach, but when the desert meets the sea, I guess it's inevitable.
Frankincense Tree
Wadi Dawkah, a natural reserve to protect an ancient grove of Frankincense. Even the smallest drop of sap, rubbed between one's fingers, emitted a sweet aroma, not dissimilar to a sweet pine-like fragrance.
Second outing, the following day, had us going east from Salalah. A spring, a wadi, an archaelogical site, and a religious tomb.
The religious stop was "Job's Tomb" - a prophet for Christians, Jews, and Muslims. A small building contained the unassuming tomb, which is one of a handful of sites around the world where it is claimed he was buried. The most notable aspect of our visit was that we almost missed it, first following some directions that had us at a spring and pools nearby, which apparently are filled with bathers in the busy months. This disappointing site threw us right off, and detective work was needed to ascertain where we had gone wrong.
Ayn Razat
Ayn Razat is a year-round spring near Salalah. A small strip popular with locals, where the water literally gushes from the rocks. The various pools were filled with fish, of many different varieties, while water birds waded around availing themselves of the self-serve buffet.
Wadi Darbat
Looking down to Wadi Darbat. It really felt like looking down at a scene from Africa, especially if the camels had been giraffes. The water level is low, and as it is now a dry season in Oman. Still, the travellers come to see the lake and waterfalls.
The lake inside the wadi is the largest natural lake in Oman. That is not saying a lot, as on world standards, it would be considered tiny.
Small Waterfalls
In the wet season, the water apparently flows over all these rocks, and then further downstream, runs off the plateau. Occasionally, once every ten years of so, that run off becomes a curtain of water.
We were actually surprised to see any water flowing, given how dry every thing is. So this lovely scene was a bonus.
Camel, In Wadi Darbat
Khor Rori, Oman
Looking down from the ancient remains of Khor Rori. This hilltop town had a harbour below, once a critical stop for trade coming out the Red Sea or from North Africa, heeading across to India. At this stop, traders would take on Frankincense.
A very early flight had us at the other extreme of Oman, in Khasab. Khasab is an Omani exclave, isolated from the rest of the country by UAE. Security seemed tight and it felt like there was a lot of military. This turned out to be for a justifiable cause. The sultan was in town. We did not find out for what purpose - maybe to extend a personal welcome?
View with Sultan's Yacht
We had booked a "king room" at this hotel, and it was actually a small corner suite. We could see the cliffs that come down to the sea on both sides of Khasab, and the complete harbour.
Docked just opposite was the Sultan's yacht. The space between the road and the mooring had 5 or 6 armoured vehicles, Occasional helicopters circled.
I have to confess, I felt odd trying to take photos. The soldiers were all on alert, and I felt that opening curtains from such a prime location might already draw attention. So, opening windows or taking photos might invite a full police tactical unit to visit us.
A little later, walking through town, we came to the main road to find it fully blocked. Soon after, streams of police and military vehicles came, followed by many brand new green four-wheel-drives, followed by a vehicle with the sultan, and then more entourage, and more security. Overhead, helicopters kept a watchful eye on the proceedings. People along the road waved and took photos. We waved and took photos. We got a wave back, too.
Khasab Fort
Fort with concise and informative on-site museum. We particularly loved the restored wooden boats in the compound, showing the different styles which had been in use in the area over the last century or so.
Our main reason for coming to Khasab was to do a boat trip, on to the Musandam Fjords. These khors might not be true fjords, but the network of dramatic inlets did make the area feel like Scandinavian coast overtaken by the desert.
Jo, Sultana of Richmond
After boarding our wooden dhow, we thought we might be waiting for more passengers. However, we soon pushed off, and it was just the two of us. We could swap from shade to sun, snorkel as long as we wanted, opt in and out of stops (which we did opt in for all), There were drinks and fruit available the whole time, and a lunch fit for a Sultan or Sultana.
A Dolphin, Alongside our Dhow
We spotted dolphins at about 5 or 6 locations on our way. When they were near the surface, the captain would put the boat in to high speed and aim towards them. We joined him and the crew member in clapping and whistling. Often, nothing resulted. A few times, the noise and speed of the boat got the dolphins to turn and engage with us. Swimming alongside and darting under the boat to appear again on the other side.
What do they think of us? This most beautiful interaction which they seem to reap no benefit other than play.
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Dolphin Play, Alongside our Boat
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Dolphin Play, Alongside our Boat
The commentary shows just how excited and happy I was.
On a Ridge Between Two Seas
One stop involved a walk and a climb up 400+ steps. This beautiful lookout had two different seas on either side. Gulf of Oman, or Oman Sea. Arabian Gulf, or Persian Gulf. A rewarding climb.
Meanwhile, men working on the path, making picnic tables and benches, walls, and steps, did the climb carrying bags of cement. Who knows how many times they climb those steps each day.
View into the Sun, Gulf of Oman
On the morning of our flight to Muscat, we used a ride sharing app to find a taxi to the airport. I did find it odd that a civilian in this part of the world would be wearing a shirt with any sort of camouflage print. I think security would be very touchy about things like that. So, I assumed he must be military.
Check in at this tiny airport with one flight for the day was slow and tedious. The flight was late, but we didn't know that as we were queued up and still without boarding passes ten minutes before schedule. However, we knew everyone queued were on the same flight, so surely we would get through. Suddenly, I hear my name. "Richard!" A cheerful tone, not threatening. I turn to see a soldier patrolling the terminal with a serious automatic weapon, giving me a cheeky little wave. At first I thought he could not be referring to me, and maybe I misheard. How many local people in Khasab would possibly know me? Then, a moment of recognition - our taxi driver had obviously parked and was now performing his duty.
