And Back Through Armenia

18 to 25 April, 2013 – Goris, Yeghegnadzor, Yerevan, Gyumri – (Armenia)



On our way back to Yerevan, we spent some time visiting a few of the sights of southern Armenia. As well as the fantastic monasteries and scenery, we had some great hitching experiences and couchsurfing encounters.

Near Goris, we had to hide for 15 minutes in a rocky dip, waiting for a pair of fairly vicious looking and sounding sheepdogs to lose interest in waiting for us. They were on the path we had to take back down a mountain, and had come from some distance away when they spotted us across the fields. In the meantime, we had managed to find a spot screened to them by the rocks, and we just waited there, holding our breath, while they barked and looked around, until eventually they disappeared from sight. Quickly and quietly we returned to the path and went past the spot, keeping quiet, and staying low. They had, thankfully, moved on to a point where they could no longer see the path or us.

An interesting gesture Armenians make is to make a stabbing motion to their necks with an index finger. I am not sure if it means to go drinking, or just indicates vodka, but if a stranger does it while talking to you, they are inviting you for a drink. Luckily we had been told this by some people we met in Goris, or we would not have known what was meant. The next day, their neighbour made the gesture while delivering a Coke bottle full of vodka when we answered the door. And a few days later, when hitching near Noravank monastery, a guy in a car made the gesture when he invited us for a lift.

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Pinnacle Rock Formations Near Goris


Tatev Monastery


Tatev Monastery
The monastery of Tatev sits so perfectly and picturesquely on the cliff tops. This angle is from the cable car.


Noravank Monastery
In contrast to Tatev and its cliff top location, Noravank sits in a canyon. The 8 kilometre walk to Noravank is a beautiful and easy approach.


Canyon Cliffs, Noravank
Looking across from Noravank Monastery.


Graves
Graves in the floor of the ante-chamber of Surp Karapet, one of the churches at Noravank monastery.


Eternal Flame at the Armenian Genocide Memorial


Yanni Concert
We got tickets an hour or so before the show. It was a fantastic concert.


Yanni


Khor Virap Monastery
The monastery of Khor Virap with Mount Ararat behind it.


Modern Access To An Ancient Prison
These stairs lead seven metres down to the bottom of a well. Over 1700 years ago, this is where St Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned for 12 years. He was banished here by the pagan King Trdat III because of his Christian faith. After the king was miraculously healed, he converted, and Armenia became the first Christian nation.


Jo and Lilit Among the Throngs
April 24 is Genocide Memorial Day, when the people of Armenia remember the 1.5 million of their country-folk who were killed in the early 20th century. Hundreds of thousands come to the genocide memorial to lay flowers, pay respects, and remember those who died. Since we were still in Yerevan, we thought it appropriate to join the crowd. It was very nice to be accompanied by a local, Lilit, who we met through couchsurfing.


The Flowers Begin to Pile Up
Genocide Memorial Day in Armenia, April 24, and it was still early (around 10:30) and already the flowers were piled incredibly high around the eternal flame of the Genocide Memorial. On the outside were large floral tributes presented by international organisations and representatives of foreign powers, but the real beauty was the overwhelming impact of a few flowers by every visitor. Mid morning, and it was already quite a task to manage the piles. By the end of the day, I am sure there is almost a wall created by the mounds of flowers, which would number towards a million, at a guess.


Earthquake Damage
It is now 25 years since a devastating earthquake killed 50,000 people, displaced many times more, and ruined the city of Gyumri and neighbouring towns and villages. The population is growing, but oh so slowly. And still, in some areas of the cities, many buildings lie in disrepair. Some are shells, with walls and ceilings that somehow have managed to hang on all these years, despite their precarious angles. The building pictured was ruined and collapsed at both ends, exposing the dwellings there. You can see the elaborate wall decorations, perhaps from dining or sitting rooms. Yet the centre part of the building is still used and lived in. The doorways from these exposed rooms are boarded up, yet the next rooms are occupied, lights and furniture indicating the spaces which are inhabited. The other end told a similar story.

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A Country That Isn't

15 to 18 April, 2013 – Stepanakert, Agdam – (Nagorno-Karabakh)



You may struggle to find Nagorno-Karabakh on many maps. Officially, it does not really exist. My understanding is, and this may be not quite correct, Nagorno-Karabakh is a region that was majority inhabited by people of Armenian descent (and a significant majority, somewhere over 90% at the start of the 20th century, and still over 75% in the 1980s). During the time of the Soviet Union, the region was included as part of Azerbaijan. In the late 80's, the Armenians there sought independence from Azerbaijan, which turned in to war. Armenia supported them, and by 1994 a ceasefire was called and a tentative ceasefire line exists. To this day, Nagorno-Karabakh still remains largely unrecognised as a sovereign entity, and for most maps and international recognition it is part of Azerbaijan. For practical reasons, it needs to be seen as part of Armenia, as this is the only point of access for foreigners, they speak Armenian, use Armenian currency, and rely on the support of the Armenian military, government, and people. But they seek to be viewed as an independent and sovereign nation, using the names Nagorno-Karabakh, or just Karabakh, or even Artsakh at times.

So, visiting the area was interesting, with some areas quite enigmatic. We mainly stayed in the region that is marked out as Nagorno-Karabkh, but we did venture across to some other areas claimed by Azerbaijan, not part of Nagorno-Karabakh, but still under control of the Armenian military and on the Armenian side of the cease-fire line. I interpret this as a sort of dead zone, or buffer, not ultimately part of Karabakh's claim, not quite a no-man's land, and all in limbo until a final solution can be ratified regarding the status of the entire zone.

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Gandzasar Monastery
Writing from centuries past adorns the interior walls of the main church in the Gandzasar monastery near Vank in Nagorno-Karabakh.


Gandzasar Monastery
Over time, crosses have been etched in to the exterior walls. Gandzasar monastery, Vank, Nagorno-Karabakh.


A Poppy Grows
Coming in to Agdam, a ruined and abandoned city, we found poppies growing by the roadside. Agdam, or Akna, is not really in Nagorno-Karabakh, but in Azerbaijan territory occupied by the Armenian military. Not quite no-man's land, but a dead zone for all intents and purposes, until the entire Karabakh question is resolved.


The Mosque In Agdam
Abandoned and in disrepair, the mosque near the centre of Agdam is one of the few buildings to retain its form and whose original function is discernible. It is still possible to access the roof and to climb the minarets. The street was a main road, but is slowly giving in to the encroachment of trees and shrubs.


Looking To Town Centre
From the roof of the abandoned mosque in Agdam, looking towards some of the remains of the buildings that were once part of the centre of town.


Abandoned and Plundered
Another photo taken from the roof of the mosque in Agdam. The remains of the low rise housing, mainly one and two storey buildings, are slowly being engulfed by the trees. Every building has been picked through many times, firstly for anything resalable including bathroom and kitchen fittings, and secondly for anything recyclable, particularly scrap metals and building materials. Amongst all the things left behind are occasional stoves and refrigerators, as well as the shells of cars and trucks.

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Absorbing the Sanctity from 1700 Years of Christian Worship

9 to 15 April, 2013 – Alaverdi, Yerevan – (Armenia)



Borders between Azerbaijan and Armenia are not open, meaning we had to travel via Georgia to continue our trip. A few hours in Tbilisi and then continuing with a grumpy taxi driver who did not appear to be happy with anyone or anything.

As soon as we crossed the border, the taxi driver wanted to refuel. Of course, this is not uncommon, where drivers will put in fuel in the cheaper country. However, here they use a lot of methane for vehicles. Due to the volatility of the gas, you are not allowed to stay in the vehicle while it refuels, and they provide little waiting rooms while the process happens. Additionally, each car is separated from the others by solid concrete walls. You actually get a bit nervous during the whole process, and worst of all, the car stinks for quite a while afterwards!

Although the locations listed above imply this week was about Alaverdi and Yerevan, it was actually a lot more about the sights near those places. In the Debed Gorge, there are many ancient churches and monasteries, of which we visited a handful. Principally Haghpat, Sanahin, Ordzun, and Akhtala. Likewise, although we had some great dining and drinking in Yerevan, we focussed on day trips to Echmiadzin, Zvartnos, Geghard, and Garni.

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Hamazasp, Haghpat
The acoustics in this wonderful space were amazing. Although the oldest parts of the monastery date from the 10th century, Hamazasp was built around 1257.


Carved Cross
A cross carved centuries ago in one of the magnificent pillars of Hamazasp at Haghpat Monastery.


Haghpat
Haghpat Monastery, with the bell tower in the foreground, and a sense of its beautiful location in the background.


Our Little Find
We decided to walk between Haghpat and Sanahin, and thought we would find the way quite easily. We did make it, but are not too sure if we went the most direct way possible. We only got directions once, and they were quite vague, and we don't feel like we followed them, but in hindsight, there did not appear to be a better alternative. Anyway, so maybe we were lost, and maybe we weren't, but on the way we encountered this fantastic little church amongst ruins. It sat on a rocky outcrop just below the plateau that Sanahin sits on. There were cliffs below, cliffs opposite, and cliffs along the sides of the plateau. The little sanctuary was tidy and had a few candle stubs, and was therefore visited by worshippers on occasion. However, we still felt like it was our little discovery because of the remote setting, difficult approach, and the ruins around it.


Sanahin Monastery
We got here much later in the day than we had planned. The fading light, though, seemed to add to the atmosphere of such a place.


Inside the Church of Akhtala
Some of the beautiful, unrestored frescoes at Akhtala. These frescoes are 800 years old, and are in high concentration in this church. Later, the priest found us waiting by the roadside. Waiting for a bus he said was not coming any more. So he drove us down the next few kilometres to the main highway so we could pick up passing transport there.


Candles
Inside the 17th century church called Zoravar in Yerevan.


The Spear That Pierced Christ's Side
It is claimed that this is the head of the spear that was used by a soldier to pierce the side of Jesus Christ while he was on the cross to check if he was dead. It is easy to be sceptical about whether it is the genuine article, just as easy as it is to blindly believe it is what they say. Personally, I see no reason to doubt it, considering the item has been kept by the Armenian church for over 1700 years, and therefore it was collected relatively soon after the event. That said, for us it is not important whether it is genuine or not, it still acts as a reminder of the event. As long as the object itself is not venerated and it is treated more as a historic item than a particularly holy one, then I see it as an illustration of the type of spear that would have been used. And perhaps, just perhaps, it really is the one.


Ruins With Mount Ararat
Mount Ararat emerges from the clouds behind the 7th century ruins of Surp Grigor Lusavorich at Zvartnots, near Yerevan.


13th Century Carving
Khatchkers were grave markers for many centuries in this part of the world. From simple crosses to ornate scenes and fabulous patterns, occasionally with writing but not commonly so. This detail on a khatchker at Geghard Monastery particularly stood out.


Geghard Monastery

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Amazingly, I thought the differences between the Armenian and Georgian churches would be too subtle for us to notice, as casual visitors. However, despite the definite similarities, they do feel different. Not in any way that I can clearly describe. Certainly nothing that makes one feel more holy or sacred than another. Just different. When there are services under way, things are more distinct. In Georgia, there was the three part harmony chanting of men, and the focus of the service was on the priests, with very little movement inside. In Armenia, a choir sang and a soloist sang, and people moved around a lot, lighting candles. The priests seemed to minister to small groups of worshippers at a time, rather than being a focus of all those assembled. Usually, of course, the places we visited had no such activities in progress. Some are ruins, or are not operational. And even those churches and monasteries which are active, we visit them at all hours. But still, taking the time to sit and absorb, the sacredness of them is easy to encounter and a pleasure to experience.

Of course, we are experiencing more of Armenia than just these holy places. That walk mentioned above, between Haghpat and Sanahin, was interrupted by another display of hospitality. A guy and his friends were picnicking and barbecuing for his 24th birthday. We were waved in, fed, given some drinks, and entertained as they sang Armenian songs. It took us quite some time to extract ourselves from the crowd, and this was the reason we arrived so late at the Sanahin monastery.

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A Sculpture Made From Old Tyres
This lion sculpture is made from all sorts of old rubber tyres. Tractor, car, and bicycle tyres could all be identified. Part of the Cafesjian collection displayed outside the Cascade Gallery at Yerevan.


Drinking Armenian Cognac
Armenia is justly proud of its brandies and cognacs.


Yerevan Tulips
Spring is coming. Yerevan is full of flowers, but particularly tulips. So many garden beds with tulips in every imaginable colour.


Garni Temple
Rebuilt temple from the 1st century.


… and the Pool is Freaking Awesome!

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At restaurants and cafes around the world, we have generally found that the language barrier is lowest when we want to pay. Just making a little writing gesture in the air is enough for all waiters to realise that you want to take care of the account. Until now. At one establishment in Yerevan, I made the gesture, and the waiter came over with a pen and some paper. He was terribly embarrassed upon realising what we were really after, and the bill was soon brought over – by another waiter.