4500 Years in Tunisia

6 to 10 Jan, 2024 - Dougga, Elles, Tunis, Carthage, Sidi Bou Said - (Tunisia)



Installment two of our Tunisian blog begins in Dougga, a few hours out of Tunis. We ended up at a moderately upmarket hotel, not by direct choice, but by elimination: there were no other hotels. This was our anniversary night, so it was nice to be somewhere with a nice restaurant attached.

The next day, we visited Dougga. The wind was very chilly, and the rain came and went, never really getting heavy. This was one of the sights I was most looking forward to. Not so large and extensive as to require a full day investment, but still of great interest with some fascinating remains and excavations. In better weather, I'm sure we would have spent longer.

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Roman Theatre, Dougga
Capable of seating 3500 people, the theatre was cut in the hill at the Roman city of Dougga. Jo on-stage, for perspective.


The "Capitol", Dougga
Part temple, part political, overlooking the Dougga market and forum.

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Kind-a in the vicinity, we went to Elles to visit 4500 year old dolmen graves. Still cold and windy.

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One of the Dolmen, Elles
Dolmen are tombs made of slabs of stone laid on top of each others. The dolmen in this area were quite long, with passages and multiple rooms leading off them. These dolmen are over 4500 years old.

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Outdoor sites, in the cold wind, with intermittent showers - we were keen to complete the last long drive, getting us to Tunis, where a warm hotel room would be waiting.

Unfortunately, it was not going to be as simple as that...

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The Tale of the Tourists who Drove to Tunis Medina
I am not just deflecting blame, I know this was all the fault of Google Maps navigation. Well, maybe some fault lies with the hotel.

Driving in to Tunis, well after dark, rain fairly heavy, trying to keep our calm with the nutty displays of local driving. A check of our reservation confirmation listed that the accommodation had parking. So, when Google had a plotted path to the front door, we followed.

A few turns from a main road, and we were driving along some narrow cobbled streets. We were not too concerned, there were other cars about. But the streets got narrower and the turns it proposed got tighter. At one point, it proposed a turn I knew we could not do successfully in the car, little as it was. So Google gave us an alternative.

I was convinced this must be the route - narrow, yes, but confidently marked. I had conviction, and we folded the mirrors in and progressed carefully... until a man shouted and stopped us. Where were we going? He warned us of the stairs coming ahead.

So, we had to back out. This took about 15 minutes, with mirrors folded, and 3 or 4 locals guiding us in the rain.

The whole saga felt like a cross between James Bond and the Griswalds.

We returned on foot, the following day, to take photos. Hmm, even in daylight, I might have attempted the manoeuvre. But rain or shine, day or night, we were not going to get our little Kia hire car down those stairs.

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Our final days were spent in and around Tunis. Oh, and we were very happy to get the hire car returned, unscathed.

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Roman Baths, Overlooking the Mediterranean
The remains of the Baths of Antoninus in Carthage, near Tunis.


Mosaic Slabs
At the Roman Villas site in Carthage, scores of mosaic slabs are laying about. We assume they are waiting for a more permanent home, given that they were none-too-shabby!

They did appear very random and forgotten. Not sure if they would notice one or two missing...


Sidi Bou Said
Sidi Bou Said is a beachside area, not too far from Tunis. It is the epitome of Mediterranean towns, with white washed walls contrasted with blue doors and shutters. Largely pedestrianised and an easy visit.


It Just Landed on My Head
OK, not really, but a photo had to be had.


Cat, Moped, Tunis Medina
All through the country, we have seen cats sitting in cute perches. Peering out windows, on ledges, sitting in boxes (as cats are want to do) or up on bar stools. Any where they can find to stay out from under-foot.

I thought this nonchalant feline, watching the medina busy-ness,a stand out example of such behaviour.


Mosaic Lined Baptismal
A 4th or 5th century baptismal, beautifully lined with mosaic tiles, pictures, patterns, and inscriptions. Bardo Museum in Tunis.


Bardo Museum, Tunis
With one of the world's largest collections of mosaics, the Bardo struggles to find space to display the wondrous pieces. There is a combination of thematic presentation, and a general chronological progression as one wanders through (assuming one starts at the beginning, which Jo tends not to do),

In the end, there are some examples so significant and so large, that presentation space has obviously been specifically designed and modified to hold it.

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Uzbek Serenity

26 Sep to 2 Oct, 2022 - Samarkand, Shakhrisabz, Termez - (Uzbekistan)



As a visitor lacking any common language with the locals, there are certain vulnerabilities. One that we are especially wary of is overcharging. While this can happen even when you can converse, using misunderstandings is a common tactic to squeeze you for more money. In the end, the misunderstanding may have been genuine and we never want someone else to miss what they are due if the communication failure has occurred.

On this trip, we have never felt unsafe. We have seen multiple examples of honesty and good will. We have bargained for purchases, and regardless of whether we agree on a price or not, have always parted on good terms with smiles.

We had one taxi driver try to decline our tip, wanting to round down instead because he didn't have the correct change. I observed a customer and waitress arguing over money, trying to push some cash in to each other's hands. Every deal we struck was honoured and completed unbegrudgingly.

Heading west from Tashkent to Samarkand, we took the train. Our intention was to take the high speed service, but only one day before, most services were full, and ended up on a leg if a much longer sleeper service.

Four days was a nice amount of time for this fascinating city. Unhurried visits to the main sights, some shopping, and plenty of time to linger over meals or cay (chai).

One day, after visiting the museum of the ancient city ruins, we decided to shortcut back to the new town, only to find ourselves clambering down the remains of the old city walls, ending up wedged between them, the cemetery, an express way, and a drainage channel.

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Registan, at Night
Sublime and dignified. The three madrasahs which now make up the Registan in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. Although the name, in reality, relates to the square which these buildings were built around, it has now become synonymous with the buildings themselves.


Registan, Disneyfied
There are numerous criticisms in books and on websites about the "Disneyfication" that is occurring to various monuments in Uzbekistan. This was not as bad as we expected (and not as bad as this photo might suggest). There was stirring music, culturally appropriate and not too loud, while the lights changed colour and "danced" along the rows of arches. That said, although I didn't reel in horror or disgust, I don't know if it added anything to our enjoyment. On other evenings, when it was simply lit, the subtle details were more prominent, and the overall feel was certainly more dignified.


Registan by Day
Staying in Samarkand for four nights meant we had ample visits past this view. Some days, we crossed here multiple times. It was wonderful to enjoy the changing moods of the shifting shadows.


Repairing a Leaning Tower
Well, if you go back to our other photos, you will see there are some leans. From some places in the grounds, you struggle to see anything that looks perfectly vertical. However, seeing this photo from the 1930s made us appreciate that, in comparison, we can probably call the current angles as "near enough".


Ceiling Selfie, Registan
In Tilla-Kari Madrasah, the "Gold Covered" Madrasah. This is the middle madrasah in the Registan. The ceiling is a beautiful kaleidoscope, and standing in the middle staring up, one starts to lose orientation of up and down…

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While the Ragistan is king of tourist sights in Samarkand, it is not alone. There is a lot more to this city than most first realise.

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Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, Samarkand
Another highlight sight of Samarkand. This Mausoleum contains, amongst others, the remains of Timur. He is often described as a tyrant, after ransacking his way through much of the reachable world, from norther India through to Iran. Much of the plunder, though, returned to this part of the world, including craftspeople. So he is also remembered as a builder and developer. In this mausoleum is also the remains of a couple of sons and grandsons, including ruler, astronomer, mathematician Ulug-Beg.


Mausoleum of Qusam-ibn-Abbas
A cousin of the prophet Mohammed, credited with bringing Islam to this part of the world in the 7th century. The shrine grew and was modified over the year, and in the 14th and 15th centuries, many magnificent mausoleums were built in the area.


Magnificent Wood Carved Doors
The mausoleums doors were also worth keeping an eye on, as they contained incredible craftsmanship, too.


Shah-i-Zinda
These are some of the oldest mausoleums in Shah-i-Zinda, and the tile work on them is beautiful. Apparently, much of the tiling is original, and restoration on these was quite minimal, testament to the quality of the workmanship.


On the Avenue of Mausoleums
Shah-i-Zinda is like a little street lined with mausoleums. Here we can see some of the work in detail, including where it has curved to create shape and form as well as texture and colour. Looking past the tiles, the Octagonal Mausoleum can be seen, unusual in that it is open sided.


Inner Details, the Octagonal Mausoleum


A Fine Breakfast Spread
OK, it was not just for the two of us, but the array of foods meant we did not start any of our days hungry. On top of these dishes, we were given a small bowl of porridge, a fried egg, and a sausage. No complaints from us.


Russian Jeep for Sale
It hardly ever rains around here, so the lack of a roof seems hardly an issue.


No Translation Needed
A picture might be worth a thousand words. This one is worth one word. A very important word.


Bibi-Khanym Mosque
When built, in the 14th century, it was possibly the largest mosque in the world. Can you see Jo in the foreground? It is not possible to go inside, with the main dome still unrepaired after a 19th century earthquake. Peering through the doors and windows, giant cracks in the walls and ceiling make the structure look very vulnerable. Outside, though, that sense is lost, and the colossal facade is humbling. The historians, though, record that the building was done so quickly, and the engineering was stretching the limits so much, that cracks started appearing even before the works were complete. It's no wonder, then, that some movements in tectonic plates might cause the whole endeavour to appear precarious.


Recently Refurbished Hazrat-Hizr
Certainly much humbler in size, the nearby Hazrat-Hizr Mosque in Samarkand presents an extremely colourful ceiling.

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Heading south from Samarkand, we found ourselves progressively further and further from the trodden tourist path. Most foreigners don't make it to Shakrisabz, and in Termez on the border of Afghanistan, we saw one person who was definitely not local.

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There was a Piece of Rope
A car we passed on the way south in Uzbekistan. Loading your car in this way is probably not legal in many countries, but it looked surprisingly sturdy, even though there only appeared to be one piece of rope running over the top. Looks like he may have done this before.


Ak-Saray Palace, Shakhrisabz
All that remains of Timur's Ak-Saray Palace. the two sides of the entrance portal. This must have been impressive before it was destroyed - you can see it only gets to where the arch would have begun.


Cay (Chai) in a Converted Caravansary

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Using online translation is getting better, rapidly, but is a tool we try to avoid unless it is important or getting awkward. Locals generally seem to have one installed, and are quicker to resort to using that than we are. Whike it takes out some of the fun and challenge, it introduces a new game. What did they think they were saying or asking? Negotiating a taxi, just this morning, while waving fingers in the air and trying to clarify for how many and how far, a phone was thrust in front of me. The English translation displayed said "Uzbek serenity." My perplexed expression did not seem to deter him as he pointed insistently at the screen. Yesterday, at the hotel comparing different options, the manager used his phone to ask Jo a puzzling question, "Can I paint the room now?"

Termez, in southern Uzbekistan, the border of Afghanistan. The drive down here was flanked by landscape that perfectly reflected what I expect Afghan landscapes to be. Pretty broad and dry, with rocky hills and outcrops. Goatherds riding donkeys or walking, surrounded by scores of black woolly goats. When we got to the city, it was enveloped in a cloud of dust, limiting visibility and filling our eyes, noses, and lungs with grit. Thankfully it settled after a few hours, but it did not feel out of character for where we were.

As we were leaving from the bus station, before getting in to our vehicle, a police officer approached us and asked to see our pasdports. I took them and accompanied this officer to a small, slightly terrifying room reminiscent of many a movie scene. It had a table with one chair, which he took, and another chair in the middle of the room. Bare concrete walls, and nothing else in the room, except an exercise book and pen. Thankfully there was a window, and my concern would have been greater had he closed the door and told me to sit. He smiled, haphazardly copied some details from our documents in to the unformatted and messy pages of his book, took a photo of the entry stamps, and sent me on my way.

Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - Involvement

14 May to 19 Jun, 2022 - Bomba (and surrounds), Vasto, Pennadomo, Scanno, Roccascalegna - (Italy)



Kristy came to visit for almost a week. With no agenda, and no particular list of places to go, we were able to squeeze in a number of local highlights and show some of the best of the area. It was a very pleasant way to host a guest. Kristy lived with us for some time a number of years ago in Richmond, and we also spent a couple weeks on the road with her in Paraguay and Brasil at one point.

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Kristy and Jo, Vasto
Vasto is a nice city, with a great old town feel, good dining options, and a cool breeze from high on the hill above the ocean.


From Pennadomo
On the rock peak, above Pennadomo. Looking back at Bomba and its lake.


Obligatory Stop
We do have such a fondness of this spot with this wonderful angle of the castle of Roccascalegna. Every visitor must expect we will come to this bend in the road!


Kristy and Jo at Lago di Scanno
A selfie for the two girls with the heart of Lake Scanno. For a little while it seemed they were not going to make it, as they came from the wrong direction and doggedly had to make their way through the undergrowth.

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Over the top of this, life continued to tick over in Bomba.

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San Mauro
San Mauro is carried from the church in Bomba to the sanctuary below. This is the weekend of the feast of San Mauro.


The Faithful
Many walk ahead of the saint, while the stronger and able bodied men walk alongside the saint, swapping every few hundred metres to share the load.


Bringing San Mauro into the Sanctuary


Another Community Day
Held at the next town around, a day to collect rubbish from the lake shores.


Visiting Roccascalegna


Designs on the Streets


Roccascalegna Flower Festival
Images on the streets made predominantly with flower petals.

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Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - New Year

28 Dec, 2021 to 9 Jan, 2022 - Castel del Monte, Alberobello, Otranto, Santa Maria di Leuca, Gallipoli, Lecce, Matera, Gravinda di Puglia, Castelmezzano, Viggiano, Padula, Foggia - (Italy)



Soon after Christmas, we went on the road. South-east, right to the tip of Italy's heel. Then back up to Bomba through the centre of the country. The first few days, we kept moving a little bit. Two nights, two towns, and a number of stops en-route.

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Castel del Monte - Exterior


Castel del Monte
Looking up from the inner courtyard. We had stopped at Castel del Monte in earlier in the year, but as it was high season and we had not pre-booked tickets, we were unable to go in. This time, we were driving south, in the vicinity, and we made our bookings online to ensure we would get to see inside.


Christmas Lights, Alberobello
A suburban part of Alberobello. Corners and nooks were lit with scenes and mini stories. Some of a traditional motif, with a bible verse, and some based on local stories and themes.


Our Trullo Bed and Breakfast
It was wonderful to stay in a traditional trullo house in the middle of Alberobello historic centre.


View Over Alberobello


Walls of Otranto
Eastern most town on the Italian mainland, with a small harbour, and a strategically important spot at the strait between the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic. The town changed hands a number of times, between the Greeks, Romans, Ottomans, and others. The castle and town walls attest to the efforts put in to retain the town.


The Martyrs of Otranto
The skeletal remains of some 813 residents of Otranto, beheaded in 1480 when the city fell in to the hands of an Ottoman force. They are said to have rejected the option of converting to Islam.


Skulls and Assorted Bones
Remains of the Martyrs of Otranto.


Skulls, Up Close
Relics in a chapel in the Otranto Cathedral, the Martyrs of Otranto.


Mosaic Floor, Otranto Cathedral
While the skulls are an interesting draw for the Cathedral, the cathedral is bestowed with other interesting sights, including the amazing mosaic floor from the 12th century.


Gallipoli, Italy
Another Gallipoli, diverse from the one us Australians automatically think of.


Fishermen, Gallipoli Harbour
Down on Italy's heel, Gallipoli has a very pleasant old town. The harbour is protected by a well proportioned and picturesque castle.


Church of Santa Croce, Lecce

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Our first multi night stop, Matera, was on my personal list of must visits, probably since week one in Italy. When it appeared in the newest 007 film as a key filming location, then the inspiration grew. Timing it with New Years Eve was a fantastic bonus. After booking it, Paul and Justin, friends from Melbourne, informed us they wanted to meet up with us. Let's do it. Matera.

I did not know how much of a thrill it would be to hunt filming locations. Although, it became a rollercoaster, too. We didn't need to see every pavestone that was filmed, but a few key scenes were tempting. There were disappointments, when we worked out that certain things didn't really exist. Temporary sets luring us to idyllic locales that turned out to be bare fields, or scenes filmed from non existent balconies. This was contrasted with joy at the recognition of landmarks, and the game of working out how that sequence might have been filmed.

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Matera
Our B'n'B was just opposite here, and this was the view we had (from the roof terrace, at least) over the ancient city of Matera.


Cistern Beneath Matera
Abandoned a century or so ago, the water cisterns beneath Matera have recently been drained and restored. They are no longer used as a water source for the city, but are now another tourist attraction. But a splendid sight, amazing engineering of its day, and a real appreciation of the importance of supplying a city with a good amount of water.


Evening Light, Matera
Lights coming on, and a prominent Christmas tree pokes out to remind us the photo was taken in late December.


Appetisers Arrived
New Years Eve. We met up with Justin and Paul, friends from Melbourne, Richmond even. When the first two plates arrived, we thought it looked like a lot to share between four. Then another two plates arrived. With another four courses to come, plus panetone, we were going to need the whole time until midnight to move our way through the food.


Fireworks Over Matera - Welcome 2022
As the New Year ticked over, and we cheered and watched the fireworks, we embraced each other, our friends, and even our restaurant hosts. Many wishes for a wonderful 2022 were given by all to all.


Looking Across to Matera
We crossed the gorge and picked our way up to this viewpoint. Both sides of the gorge, for many kilometres, are dotted with caves of various size, many turned in to chapels and churches with ancient frescoes. A few were accessible from this path across, and despite their varying state of preservation or lack there-of, they were interesting spots to visit.


Yes, It's Me, with Matera


Jo in a Near Forgotten Cave Church
Madonna degli Angeli. We were the only people up there, and so even just to be somewhere the crowds weren't going was a plus. The state of abandonment made me feel a bit sad, especially to see that some visitors had chosen to graffiti right over the top of centuries old paintings. Even in there decaying state, or maybe because of that, they deserve respect.


Piazza San Giovanni Battista, AKA "Donut Square"
A full 360 panorama of a piazza which featured in the Bond film, "No Time to Die". Apparently, it gained the pseudonym of donut square. In the movie, our hero in his Aston Martin, taking a beating from the villains, unleashes a furious barrage of firepower as he spins the car around in the centre. Thankfully, it was all special effects, and they didn't really fill all the buildings and the 12th church with bullet holes....


Cripta del Peccato Originale
The Crypt of the Original Sin, near Matera, has unmatched paintings from the 8th century, featuring paintings that have earnt the unknown painter much acclaim for the style he brought to his art of that era. The freedom he painted with, and his attempts to bring together, particularly the early part of the Old Testament, in a simple flow, were beautiful. Here, we see the serpent tempt Eve, who takes the fruit, and after tasting it, offers it to Adam. He in turn, willingly, almost happily, accepts to participate in this activity, contravening the one restriction God has placed on them, and leading to their downfall, and ultimately, the downfall of humanity.


Viaduct, Gravina di Puglia
Another James Bond "No Time to Die" film location. In the movie, they tricked us in to thinking it was in Matera, but in reality, it is around 30 km to the north.

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For our anniversary, we had ourselves in at a Bed and Breakfast with an anniversary worthy outlook. Parting with Paul and Justin in Matera, we had a couple of short stops on the way across, but Castelmezzano is not a long way from Matera.

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BnB View, Castelmezzano
OK, the balcony was small, but the view was true to what the website implied we would get. We were thrilled, and would recommend the place to anyone heading anywhere near here. Downside? A steep walk in to town. A minor inconvenience.


Sunrise, First Colours
Morning, Castelmezzano.


Sunrise, Last Colours
Morning, Castelmezzano.


View Back to Castelmezzano
So, while these are not "The lomites", they are dolomite formations. Dolomite is the name of the mineral, so that will do for the geology lesson. The dramatic nature of the formations is all we really care about. It was not too arduous to walk down from Castelmezzano, across the river, and up to this fine viewpoint, above the town of Pietrapertosa. Not visiible in the photo, there is a zipline running from one of the further peaks across to the one we took this photo from. Volo dell'Angelo - Flight of the Angel. Deep down, I was probably relieved it was closed for the season when we were there.


Heading Out


We Wanted to be on the Terrace for the View
We had consciously decided that an anniversary lunch would be preferable to allow, despite the lower temperatures, the view while dining. After all, the vista is what makes Castelmezzano so amazing. Happy 32 years, my love.

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The return up to Bomba saw us doing two improptu overnight stops. The last night was in Foggia, about 3-4 hours shy of Bomba. Walking the town in the evening, an Italian couple tapped us on the shoulder. They recognised us from Bomba. That just blew me away.

All in all, it was the perfect little tour.

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Surprised Shepherds Discover the Madonna
The Black Madonna of Vigianno is an important icon, with pilgrims descending on this little town in their thousands. The statue itself was inside this church. It is possibly over a thousand years old, but was lost in 1050 when the city where it originally was housed, Grumentum, was destroyed. Centuries later, it was found by shepherds (who do appear both surprised and delighted). In May, the statue is transferred from this sanctuary to a church in the mountains, close to where it was found. And in September, the crowds follow it when it is carried back here.


Fourth Century Jaw Fragment
San Prospero Martire. according to the label, but confusing as his skull is supposed to be elsewhere. Leading me to believe the jaw is not his, but that maybe a small relic of his is in the box....


There Must be an Interesting Story Here


The Monastery Kitchen


Stove and Kettle
In the Padula Charterhouse kitchen.


In Case You Don't Know Where You Are

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