... any way the wind blows ...: transport: bus

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Southern Kazakhstan, and Out

18 to 22 Sep, 2022 - Shymkent, Turkestan, Aysha-Bibi - (Kazakhstan)

Near Shymkent, there are two sights we wanted to get to. And as it is a stone's throw from the Uzbekistan border, and Tashkent, it made sense to finish our Kazakh visit here.

War Memorial
Most war memorials are very moving. Few things have comparable impact to listing names of lives lost. 140000 from south Kazakhstan.

Taking In the Beautiful Tiles
We hopped in a minibus to Turkestan, a couple of hours and some away from Shymkent. Here, the main sight for us was the Yasaui Mausoleum. Built in the 14th century on the site of an existing tomb. It was already a significant pilgrimage site back then, and these days it still seems the pilgrims make up the bulk of the visitors. Coloured bricks and tiles bring delightful colour and patterns to most exterior facades of the imposing structure.

A Pair of Woolly Camels
I can't ever recall seeing camels with, what at least looks like, a soft woolly coat. These too looked fluffy and, almost, cuddly. From this angle, you can see that the Mausoleum was never completed. The main facades remain bare, and structural beams are still exposed. Work ceased when the sponsor passed away. Later, they cleaned it up, but retained the unfinished appearance.

Mausoleum of Aysha-Bibi
It may have been easy enough to get to Aysha-Bibi by minibus, as they will happily drop you off as they go by. We were not quite in the mood to wait by the roadside for a return trip to Shymkent, possibly watching multiple full vehicles whizzing by. So, we decided to take the easy option of getting there by taxi. While not a large building, the beautiful terracotta bricks with various patterns made the time and effort worthwhile. Although extensive restoration was performed in the last 20 years or so, it is reportedly true and accurate to the original 11th or 12th century structure.

At Aysha-Bibi
One side had a door, three sides had windows with little spots to sit. Inside, at the tomb, pilgrims received a blessing. Some of the visitors circled the building, touching and praying at various points. We just circled and admired the patterned bricks, and rather than a blessing, went inside for a happy little chat about being from Australia.

Details
Using light and shade to bring the details of the patterned bricks to 2 dimensions.

To finish our time in Kazakhstan, we had some, still to be explained, odd information. The big, comfy bus we were to take to Tashkent was cancelled, and the reason, they said, was fuel. That was it, a one word Google translation, "fuel". We assume not too much, or bad, so perhaps difficulty acquiring? In a fuel producing and exporting nation? Would minibuses run? Maybe not, they said. The taxi driver we had, the day before, went to four petrol stations to get fuel, but assured us there were no fuel problems. We asked in Shymkent, and got told there were no fuel problems. Yet today, on our Tashkent bound minibus, we stopped at eight or ten stations before the driver got some fuel, but only a ration or so, because we subsequently stopped at another three or four to get some more.

So yesterday, after our visit to Aysha-Bibi, we returned to Shymkent via a bazaar with a good reputation for fabrics and textiles. The whole market place was in darkness, as power was off. So we went around a few areas, and stall holders showed us their wares using the torches on their phones. We eventually found something we liked and bargained a suitable price. I left Jo chatting with them while I went to the nearest ATM to get cash, but upon seeing the blank screen, I knew power was an important ingredient in any ATM interaction. I went further and wider, leaving the market district. In the end, I realised this might be a futile endeavour, and decided to rely on some of our emergency US dollars. I knew I was gone a good while, because by the time I got back, Jo was practically one of the family. They had been teaching her Kazakh (counting to five) and more little phrases, and stumbling through descriptions of Australia and family. As we left, I joked to her about being the girl abandoned in a market and raised by a kind local family who took her in. Years later, reaching deep in to her memory, she had some vague recollections about a distant country called Australia, but didn't know where they might have come from.

A Windy Beach Ending

10 to 18 January, 2014 - Tagaytay, Naga, Caramoan, Manila - (Philippines)

It turns out that the back to back transports of getting to Pinatubo were not the end of it. After getting down, we went straight to the highway; caught a bus to one terminal in Manila; negotiated traffic in the chaotic capital to get to another bus terminal (over an hour and a half, and it wasn't even peak hour); and finally got out again, heading south, to Tagaytay.

Volcanic Cones in a Crater Lake
The outer crater is 75 kilometres round the rim. In the lake (Lake Taal) are numerous volcanic islands, cones, and craters, many still quite active. The main cone has a lake, which in turn has a crater with a lake, which has an island in it.

Unforturnately, that "matroishka doll" of craters is not visible from the rim. And, unfortunately, due to the haze, we were lucky to get anything at all in our photo. But here it is, anyway, albeit with the levels adjusted somewhat.

It did take us an extra night to recover from all the travelling, but after an extremely lazy day, we were ready to face travel again.

Lazy? Well, we got up, and went for brunch at a place on the crater's rim with a fantastic view. But the real marvel was how early everyone was eating lunch! Then we finally looked at a clock to find that our brunch was commencing, and it was nearly 2 o'clock. We dragged brunch (now lunch, or more correct in Seinfeld terms, linner) until about 5, when we went to another venue to celebrate beer o'clock while looking in to the crater from a slightly different angle. Yes, lazy.

Windy at Caramoan
We had visions of this dog doing a Sally Fields impression, from the Flying Nun. He seems to be angling his ears in to get the aerodynamics right for a lift off.

The wind blew so hard on our second day at the beach. The rain was not as constant, but still had us running every now and then, sheltering for only a few minutes at a time. Coffee shops, behind beached boats, under random tarpaulins, beneath the biggest tree, or sometimes, well, it was too much trouble, and easier to face getting wet.

Despite the weather, we found the place very beautiful, and although we obviously would have enjoyed more if we had been able to enjoy a swim or a trip to islands, it was still a great final stop before returning to Manila for our flight home.

Queueing For Lumpia
We walked past and saw more than 40 people lined up at this Lumpia House, which proudly proclaims it has been here since 1956. Knowing nothing more than its apparent popularity, we waited our turn. It was nearly an hour, and as it was take-away only, we found a space on some nearby steps to eat.

The juices and provided dipping sauce ran down our arms, over our shorts and shoes, and generally covered our faces. This elicetted comments from passers-by: "Enjoy your food."; "Looks good."; "They are tasty, aren't they."; "We wanted some but didn't have time to wait." All we could do was wipe our faces with our fore-arms, further smearing the mess, smile, nod, and keep eating. They were delicious, but impossible to eat with any decorum.

The Rest of Northern Luzon

5 to 10 January, 2014 - Vigan, Pagudpud, Mt Pinatubo - (Philippines)

It was time to lose some altitude. After all, we didn't come to The Philippines to be cold. The most obvious route, on a map, was not the easiest, with very few transport connections and options. But soon enough, we were delighted to be in the warmer climes of the coast.

Our first stops, though, were not to be beaches. World Heritage Spanish Colonial architecture was our focus for a couple of days, and Vigan was a great place to have our anniversary. We upped the accommodation a bit, and spent two nights in a former mansion, full of delightful antiques. It had that touch of class that we are becoming familiar with, now that we are "business class worthy" travellers!

Spanish Colonial Architecture
The Spanish centre of Vigan, The Philippines. It was spared in WWII just minutes before being flattened by American bombers. The architecture is actually a mix of Spanish and Chinese influences.

Frangipani and Bell
At Santa Maria.

Santa Maria
Church of Santa Maria, near Vigan. Huge, and solid.

Happy Anniversary
Celebrating 24 wonderful years together. Vigan.

Spacious Interior
The incredibly light and airy interior of the church of Paoay.

Paoay Church
We saw this style referred to as "Earthquake Baroque". Made primarily from coral rocks, the walls are incredibly thick and have huge fortress like reinforcements. While very Spanish, it still displays many other influences. Hints of Indonesian and Chinese can be discerned.

A bit further north, and we reached our first beach stop.

Saud Beach, Pagudpud
An idyllic stretch of sand in the north Luzon, Phillipines.

Art Effect
A nice "art effect" added. Saud Beach, Pagudpud.

After some confusing phone calls, and a bit of weighing up of options, we hopped on what was supposed to be an "overnight" bus south. Have you ever noticed, that when you want a bus trip to take a bit longer, it is usually a bit shorter? Subsequently, we were deposited by the side of the highway at 2:30 in the morning. A couple of motor tricycle rides later, and we were near the foot of Mt Pinatubo.

The driver implied that the building was accommodation of some sort, and proceeded to wake the inhabitants up. Dogs barked wildly. Chickens started flapping through the yard. And after a few minutes, lights appeared from within the building. It was nearly 4 a.m. We asked about the possibility of a room, and were dutifully informed that perhaps we should forego sleep. After all, we could commence ascending the mountain at 5:30. Jo managed to convey our level of tiredness, having been deprived of rest for much of the bus trip, and what sleep we got being very light and intermittent.

By now, most of the family seemed to have been awakened by our arrival, and they began busying themselves with various jobs, one of which was preparing a room for us to sleep in. As we went to the room we passed a figure, covered head to toe, trying to sleep on a couch. Perhaps the only person in the place still doing so. Nearly two hours later, when we got up and had breakfast, we worked out that the person on the couch was the teenage daughter. She had been evicted from her room so that we had somewhere to sleep!

6:30, or maybe approaching 7:00, and we were in a jeep taking us up to where the walking was to commence. Less than 3 hours later, we stood on the rim of Mt Pinatubo, admiring the incredibly beautiful crater lake within. The sulphurous smells, the discoloured rocks and water, these reminded us it was active. And the local guide we chatted to, his story of lost loved ones in the 1991 erruption, that reminded us that looks can be deceiving.

Looking Down Into Mt Pinatubo Crater Lake
After an overnight bus, and feeling very sleep deprived, we climbed Mt Pinatubo. Admittedly, we got driven a fair way up, but the last couple of hours to the rim were on foot. And looking down in to a superbly beautiful lake with some stunning scenery made it all worthwhile.

Lakeside, Mt Pinatubo
Photo from the shore of the crater lake inside Mt Pinatubo. There is little evidence of the fact that the volcano is still very active, having significant erruptions in the last few decades.

Driving Down, Mt Pinatubo
The river down from Mt Pinatubo is largely just loose ash from recent erruptions. It is a significant hazard, as any decent amount of rain, particularly a typhoon, does not get absorbed, but turns the river very quickly in to mud and ash flows, with dangerous land slides possible at any time.

Getting High with Filipino Mummies

28 December, 2013 to 5 January, 2014 - Manila, Baguio, Kabayan, Sagada, Bontoc - (Philippines)

Manila. Well, we were bracing ourselves. We were forewarned it would be polluted, but it proved to be not quite as bad as we expected. I guess, though, being the weekend after Christmas, Monday being a national holiday, followed by the standard New Years break, it was quite calm on the roads, and I'm sure that helped immensely.

Anyway, a few good meals always helps one to ignore other problems. Food is like a masking agent ...

With all the businesses taking time off, we struggled to find information about transport, and ended up changing our plans quite last minute, as we found a bus going to a different place but sort-of in the right direction.

Crablets with Garlic and Chilli
Our first meal in the Philippines, and we were dining on these fabulous beauties. Snails, goat stew, and frogs legs. A fantastic introduction to an amazing variety of Philippine cuisine.

Hitching a Lift
On the streets of Manila.

A "Jeepney"
The roads of the Philippines are dominated by jeepneys. They are the staple of travel. Many are beat up and decrepit, while others are decorated magnificently. Some scoot through the traffic of the cities, and others ply the mountain roads between remote villages. Generally overcrowded, but efficient and quick.

After many hours travel, including an overnight stop in Baguio, we arrived in Kabayan. Here we were already well within the highlands. This is the island of Luzon, and the northern part has a magnificent mountain range (the Cordillera) which runs roughly north-south. Travel east or west is very limited, with most major routes running in parallel with this mountain spine. This means the potential for doubling back and spending an extra 8 hours in a bus is huge, so planning is important.

Then something comes from left field, and it throws all your plans, and suddenly you end up in Kabayan. Not a bad thing, as we were intending to come here anyway, but not in accordance to our timing.

So, we stepped out of the minivan, and Jo headed to the only hotel we knew about. She climbed the stairs, and found offices, and no hotel. She tried to discretely ask, but discretion got her nowhere as she quickly had the attention of all the people in those offices. Quickly it was ascertained that 300 metres up the road is a replacement hotel.

It turns out the Pine Cone Hotel was not in fact ready for guests, but had been forced into an early opening date by the premature closure of the other inn. So, all good, other than the lack of running water.

On our way, we met Richie, and he filled us in. And he introduced us to the owner of the hotel. And by the time evening came, it was apparent that we were to join them for their New Years Eve celebrations.

Here's a Heads-Up
Skulls piled high in the Opdas Mass Burial Cave, Kabayan. The bones are aged between 500 and 1000 years. The cave is literally in the backyard of one of the village families.

Preparing the Feast
As the only guests in the only hotel in Kabayan, we scored an invite to the owners' New Years Eve celebrations. Early in the evening, we sat for hours in their kitchen, laughing and exchanging all sorts of stories, while the food was prepared. As time passed, we moved to the lounge, and eventually around a large fire, where we sang songs until the fireworks filled the skies. After midnight, we ate our fill of barbecued meats and pasta.

The caves at Timbac are 1200 metres above the town of Kabayan, and they contain fantastically preserved mummies. There are many more caves, as this was once a common practice when dealing with the departed, but they are either looted, or they are kept closed to the public. You only need to see a handful, though, to get the idea. The clearly discernable tattoos, though, were amazing. On skin, hundreds of years old.

Mummies in Timbac Cave
Most of the mummies in the Timbac caves appeared to have tortured expressions. The bodies were dried and preserved with heat, smoke, and herbal preservatives.

Mummy Toes
Detail of the feet of one of the Timbac mummies.

Mummified Child
Although, the skull probably does not belong with this body, as the teeth indicate an older child. Although, the low set eyes still indicate quite a young age. Hey, we're no experts.

Tattoos
Tattoos on the skin of this mummy are well preserved and very easy to make out, even with just a torch.

New Years Day ended up being a very long day. We got going late; stopped at Timbac; discovered no buses were running on the highway; tried our card in every ATM for 200 kilometres; and eventually made it to Sagada. And then we partied till late, again.

New Years Day - The Party Continues
Arriving in Sagada, we managed to get invited to yet another fire and feast. Singing and drinking, and finally eatin. Leftovers, we think, from New Years Eve, and what better way to use them up than by having a party the next day.

The singing here was a little more professional - on arrival, a man looked at me with anticipation. "Are you a tenor? We need some more tenors, because it's just me at the moment."

We sang carols. We sang more John Denver than I thought I knew. Simon and Garfunkel featured. Many other randoms in similar genres.

Did I Mention the Dancing?
Yes, there was dancing, too.

Oh, money turned out to be a problem. Many ATMs did not accept foreign cards. Some did, but were selective in which ones worked and when. One ATM happily acceped our card, but then told us that, due to low cash levels over the extended break, our maximum withdrawal was going to be tiny (about $10!). Useless. And the ATM at Sagada had a message saying it was down for maintenance and would be working again shortly. That message had apparently been on the screen for over a week. Running dangerously low on cash, we ended up using Western Union to send money to ourselves!

Around Sagada we did some small walks.

Coffins Stacked High
In the entrance of the Lumiang Burial Cave, Sagada. Centuries old, the coffins are stacked in an apparently haphazard fashion.

From Bontoc, our next destination, we did a more significant walk, through Maligcong to Mainit, amongst the World Heritage Listed rice terraces.

On Her Way to Work
Hunched over and withered, an elderly lady heads to one of her family's rice plots, in Maligcong. Looking closely, you may be able to make out some of the tattoos on the backs of her hands.

In Maligcong
Some ladies gathered in the village of Maligcong. My eyes were drawn to the white "head piece", which is actually snake vertebrae.

Let's Photograph Each Other
Kids in Maligcong, one with my hat on. I wanted to take their photo, and they reciprocated.

Rice Terraces, Maligcong
Stone walled rice terraces were first built here around 2,000 years ago, by Chinese immigrants. Although repaired and maintained, meaning some sections are recent work, others are extremely old with many parts dating hundreds of years. These terraces, and others here high in the cordillera, are listed by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites.

Maligcong Rice Terraces
Another view of the breathtaking stone terraced rice fields of Maligcong.

Jeepney
A jeepney climbs a mountain road, carting locals and their belongings between a remote mountain town and an even more remote mountain village.

Kenya – It's All About the Wildlife (Part 1)

23 January to 4 February, 2013 – Nairobi, Masai Mara, Naivasha, Nakuru, Kisumu - (Kenya)

Coming to Nairobi airport, our final approach came over Nairobi National Park. I had read how people in the park can be looking at animals while the planes pass overhead. So, we scanned the ground in the hope that we may glimpse a zebra or even a herd of gazelles. No, from the air we could see nothing.

We were met at the airport by Walter and his friend, Florentine. Walter is Dawn Othieono's (formerly Merrett) brother-in-law. It was his second day at the airport. We had emailed him the wrong day and he had stood at arrivals the day before waiting for us! (So, so, so incredibly sorry, Walter).

As we drove away from the airport, I caused great mirth in the car when I spotted some animals beyond the fence in what I thought was the National Park. It turned out to be cows. We have them in Australia.

Walter was a great host, driving us around and picking us up from town.

Four Carnivores at Carnivore
With Walter and Florentine. At Carnivore, it is all about the meat. Not just regular beef and chook, but buffalo, ostrich, and crocodile. Meat, meat, meat.

Finally, two days later, we made our first National Park visit, to the aforementioned Nairobi National Park. Walter drove us through. And, the first animal we saw was a lion! I think that is an impressive first wild animal to encounter.

The park was a great introduction to the wildlife of Kenya. Here are a few sample pics.

Lion Snoozing in a Ditch
Our first wild animal sighting in Kenya. Before all the regular animals. A lion, snoozing, during the heat of the day, in a ditch, right next to the road. We drove right up next to him. If we had not been careful, we could have run over his paws. Extremely non-fussed about us.

An Ostrich with Nairobi in the Background
Nairobi National Park is considered an urban park. The planes landing at the international airport pass close by overhead, and meanwhile below, we were viewing ostriches, giraffes, antelopes, impalas, gazelles, lions, buffaloes, warthogs, and more.

A Warthog with Attitude
He looks ready to take on anyone and anything, but I believe deep down they are big softies.

An Inquisitive Giraffe
Just checking us out. We've seen a few, and starting to learn how to identify them. This is a Maasai Giraffe, if I am not mistaken... Quite the expert, now, hey.

One surprising thing we soon discovered while in Nairobi, and it was confirmed when we continued our travels through Kenya, is that a lot of locals like to watch Mexican and Brazilian soap operas. They are dubbed in English, and sound very stilted, but after watching a single episode of one I found myself wondering “How will this turn out? He wants custody of his son, Alex, but Alex's mother wont give him access as she knows he really is in love with her sister. Will he blackmail her with the fact he knows she hit and killed an old lady (and drove off), but then she will let authorities know that he killed a ranch hand ten years ago (albeit in self defence, because that ranch hand had been sent to kill him by her mother). But his father says he should pursue custody of Alex, and since his father seems to be very friendly with the grandmother (Alex's great grandmother), they think it will be alright. But Alex's grandfather could also be in strife if it all comes out in court so the mother is blackmailing her father to let them stay there in the mean time.”

That was what I was wondering. I may never know.

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We have been travelling primarily by matatu. These minivans with seats for 14 passengers are often carrying 20 or more people. Yes, it gets squeezy. Funny thing is, though, to contrast this with what we experienced just a few weeks ago in Bangladesh. Locals in Ban are generally considerably shorter than I, and would not find cramped travel as uncomfortable as we do. Here in Kenya, though, many are similarly built to myself, so we are all in the same boat. I don't know how they do it.

Our last few days in Kenya (for this pass) were spent in Kisumu, with “Mama Judy” and “Baba Judy”, Dawn's parents-in-law. We met them (and Walter) last year at Dawn's wedding in Canada. Again, it is fantastic to be hosted by such lovely people. Since we plan to re-visit them on our way back, more to come.

Winding Up Colombia

21 to 25 January, 2012 – Barichara, Bogotá (Colombia)

So, it happened again. Avianca flight from San Andrés to Bogotá was running late, leaving us with an extremely shortened connection for our flight to Bucaramanga. Huffing and puffing our way through Bogotá airport is becoming the norm, for us! Off the plane, out of arrivals, around, in we go, and straight on.

Landing in Bucamaranga was amazing. The city sits in valleys, while the airport is on a "meseta", hundreds of metres higher in altitude. Coming in, at dusk, we were admiring the city, when all of a sudden, out of nowhere, land appeared just off from the wing. As I was about to comment to Jo that we were passing a mountain awfully close, we landed on that very piece of land.

The drive between Bucamaranga and San Gil is also amazing. Winding down into a cavernous canyon and ascending the other side. Beautiful, but hairraising. Our nerves were not helped by the fact that in Colombia, double lines are treated as a suggestion to not pass...

From Our Delightful Room - Barichara, Colombia
The hotel is almost 300 years old, and the room was decorated with antiques. But the best thing? Hot water! Haven't had hot water for about a month. And here, it ran very hot, very steady. I had the longest shower I've had on this trip.

Filet Mignon - With Ant Sauce
Yes, that's right. Hormigas culonas, or fat bottomed ants. Steak, with an ant sauce, topped off with a handful of fried ants. Actually, it was a tasty dish. Although, the fried ants themselves actually resembled, in both taste and texture, burnt peanuts. Barichara, Colombia.

A Close-up of an Ant on My Steak
One of the fried fat-bottomed ants on my steak. Hormigas culonas are a regional culinary tradition, around Barichara (Colombia). Apparently, they are quite the aphrodisiac...

A gorgeous, non-touristy Colonial village in Colombia. An enchanting place to stay.
A gorgeous, non-touristy Colonial village in Colombia. An enchanting place to stay.

Snapped From a Hurtling Bus...
While rocketing between San Gil and Bucaramanga, we wound to the bottom of this canyon and followed a river out of it again. An incredibly beautiful part of Colombia, and it allowed us to take our mind of the erratic driving for a bit. Did you know, for instance, that double lines in Colombia indicate that you have to drive faster to overtake another vehicle? "High accident zone" on a sign indicates that you must drive in a fashion that allows this zone to hold on to it's title. And numbers on signs with red circles, while elsewhere in the world this may indicate a limit of some sort, here it indicates a bare minimum speed.

When My Baby Smiles at Me I Go To ...

20 to 28 December, 2011 – Rio de Janeiro (Brasil)

Did you here about the uproar, the commotion in São Paolo airport, caused by an Australian fellow? Surely, it was so dramatic, it must have made the news! It seems that he had a tomato in his bag. Oh, he did declare it. Left overs from a picnic. Fearful of losing the lot on arrival, he ate the salami and cheese, but the lesser valued tomato was not worth consuming. However, not wanting to waste it, the said tomato made it on the declaration rather than the bin. "No, no, no!" exclaimed the custom's officer. Dramatically, he carried it, outstretched, as if it was biohazard waste. "You cannot bring in a tomato!" This was exclaimed so loudly that almost everyone in the customs hall turned to see what was going on. "No tomatoes allowed!", he re-iterated. Surely this international scandal was on the Australian news?

As to our Rio accommodation, it's not a story worth sharing, but the end result is. We had booked an apartment in Rio to share with Lisa and Andrew, as well as Kristy who ended up being on the same flight out of Paraguay. Due to a number of circumstances, and after a bit of negotiation, we upgraded to the penthouse. There was a lot more than the beautiful view. Spa, balcony, barbecue, rooftop terrace, and a sauna, which none of us had any intention of using, given Rio's climate. The main view included nearby Pao de Acucar, with its distinctive shape and cable cars to the top, and all the way to the other side of the huge bay, with mountains in the distance. We could watch the cruise ships sail out of Rio, and the planes making their final turn and approach to land at Rio's second airport. From the rooftop, the view was even wider, including the yacht club and beach, and even the statue of Christ the Redeemer looking down, (although you did need to stand and look the other direction to include that in the vista). The way it all happened, there was little doubt about us feeling very blessed.

Lisa and Andrew have been living in nearby (well, sort of) Belo Horizonte. They have been doing mission work, and volunteer to work in areas of children at risk. Brazil has a significant problem with child exploitation and this is a challenging and intense calling for them. Them joining us in Rio was a way to have a small break from it all, as well as a chance for us all to spend Christmas with people from home.

Rio weather is supposed to be quite variable at this time, with a fair amount of rainfall. So, when we awoke to clear skies, we decided that our first day should include ascending Mount Sugarloaf, or more correctly, Pao de Acucar. After all, we see it every time we look out from our penthouse ;)

View Over Rio from Pao de Acucar
After two cable cars - sunset approaching.

Big Jesus Watching Over Rio

Sunset

Sunset Over Rio
Using sunglasses as a makeshift filter during sunset, from Pao de Acucar.

The next day, we hit centro. A wander through the main squares and streets of "downtown" Rio.

Catedral Metropolitana
Stained glass in Rio's Catedral Metropolitana.

St Francis
Silhouette in Catedral Metropolitana.

Sunlight Through the Dome
Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Candelaria, Rio de Janeiro.

Art Nouveau Afternoon Tea
Confeitaria Colombo, Rio.

On our third day straight of beautiful weather, we went up to visit Christ the Redeemer, Cristo Redentor, or Big Jesus as we started calling him. "How can I get to Christ the Redeemer?" someone asked on an internet page. One reply, "Do you mean the STATUE of Christ the Redeemer, or Christ the Redeemer. I can tell you either, but one answer may make you uncomfortable."

Riding the Cog Railway
Ascending to Christ the Redeemer, Rio de Janeiro.

Jesus Close-up
Christ the Redeemer, watching over all of Rio.

Cristo Redentor, and Us
It was a long wait to get a photo with so few others in it.

Things got nasty on the way back to town. Preparing to get off a crowded bus, we all had to squeeze through. After begrudgingly letting the other 4 past, one older guy decided he was going to make some sort of point. He refused to squeeze in that last bit to allow me past - in fact, I think he was pushing out. He pointed at some others to make room, but they were all doing their best to make a path through. I requested that he make space so I could pass, but he started yelling something in Portuguese, but included the word Brazil a few times. I finally just ploughed past him, to ensure I didn't miss the stop. Later, we made up our own interpretations. "When you come to Brazil, learn to use the bus." "Busses in Brazil should not allow foreigners on board." "When you sit on a bus in Brazil, you have to stay on till the end of the line." Certainly one of the few times ever we have encountered someone who will actively try and be nasty or rude.

Lisa and Andrew Introduced Us to Frozen Acai
It's sort-of like a slurpee, and it's a great way to cool off after pounding the streets in high 30's. Almost every snack bar sells it.

Preferential Seating for "Obesos"....
"Sorry, you can't sit here, you're just fat, not obese!"

An encounter with crime on our trip to the beach. The girls decided to swim at a different part of the beach, leaving Andrew and I to keep an eye on our things. Kristy kept an eye on her towel, which she had folded on the sand. With good reason, as it turned out. They had not been in the water long when a man walked up to the towel, looked around, and he proceeded to purloin said towel. He then went to a beach chair, draped it over, and then lay on it. By now, Kristy was charging up the beach. She confronted him with an accusation about the towel being hers. He mumbled an apology, and sheepishly handed it over. The nerve!

Rio Sunset
We watched sunset from Ponto do Arpoador.

Lisa and Andrew
At Devil's Beach, Praia do Diabo.

Santa Takes the Metro
Christmas Eve, after spending a day on the beach, we encountered Santa taking the Metro. We still think that donning such an outfit is just so he can go up to random women and give them a hug.

Did you know that Rio is famous for its giant floating Christmas tree? The "lighting of the tree" ceremony even makes the Australian news (as opposed to tomato carrying visitors).

Cute Brazilian Nativity
Donkey drinking from a coconut, with sunscreen, and an "ola". Even the gifts of the wise men have been interpreted slightly.

Giant Floating Christmas Tree
Lago Rodrigo de Freitas, Rio de Janeiro.

Christmas day was beautiful. It was so special to share an overseas Christmas with friends from home. Sometimes, Christmas on the road can feel a bit flat. But not this year! We didn't even leave the apartment!

Two Men, a Barbecue, and a Fish
Sounds like a great name for a new sitcom, hey. For Christmas lunch, we fired up the barbecue. Hot coals, and sea salt. The fish was beautiful.

A Magnificent Christmas Feast
Barbecued fish, chicken, steak, and prawns, potatoes, pumpkin, beans, carrots, snowpeas, and a great dish Kristy whipped up with tomato and onion and breadcrumbs. I still may have missed something? Merry Christmas.

Working Off Our Christmas Meal
A workout in the spa after lunch, with coffee and cake.

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