28 Jun to 8 Aug, 2021 - Bomba (and surrounds), Bitonto, Giovinazzo, Bari, Castel del Monte, Monte Sant'Angelo - (Italy)
As I begin writing this, it is becoming apparent that we are behind where we wanted to be. Not everything in the house is quite at the stage we were hoping for. In fact, I am wondering if we will have anything ready to reveal. I will hold out a bit longer, because I really do want to show some of the work that has been undertaken on our Bomba residence, but three things promised for last week did not make it.
The long and the short of it - Ilir has been working on our projects like a machine. Everything in Italy is "piano, piano" - slowly, slowly. Except Ilir. He is, despite his years here in Italy, of Albanian heritage. Some have suggested that is why he works so hard - in the baking sun as the temperature nudges the high 30's. Some things, though, are out of his control. Made to measure items that need to be ordered. These ordered items came with promises of ready dates. One by one, we have learnt that none will be ready as promised. Some choice words from Ilir have been added to our vocabulary, as the delays became known. So this week, we are in a psuedo project limbo. We have large holes in ceilings, walls, and floors, and no ability to progress.
Enough for now. Here is our favourite Italian song of the moment.
Here are some bits that have filled in the last few weeks.
Cat – Bicycle
Old Cars in the Bomba Piazza
Ricardo, the local mechanic, is apparently a very active member of a local club - I think minimum vehicle age is 30 years. One sunny morn, they came through town and lined up, while drivers and curious residents milled and admired and drank coffee.
Performance, by Bomba Pro Loco
A performance was put on in the Bomba Old Town. Five scenes. Five locations. The cast performed their scene over and over, as the audience moved through from one location to the next, in groups of six. A young cast, and a stellar performance by all.
Crowd - Euro Cup Final
Most of Bomba, settled in the piazza, to watch Italy and England in the final match of UEFA Euro 2020. Spoiler alert - Italy won in penalties after a final score of 1-1 in regular play.
To escape the noise and building dust, we hopped in the car and pointed ourselves towards Puglia for a short getaway.
Cathedral, Bitonto
Dinner – Giovanezza
We ate a lot of seafood on this trip.
Sunset on the East Coast
It is so easy to think of Italy as a basically north-south oriented country. We easily forget how much it curls around, and in parts almost runs east-west. Giovanezza is an example, where the coast runs almost east west, and situated on a little headland, it catches both sunrise and sunset (in summer, in any case). A sunset worthy of any west facing seaside town!
The Town is Named after this Boat
Giovanezza harbour.
Our Palace, Giovanezza
14th century building. We booked it on AirBnB. Gorgeous character filled building in the heart of Giovanezza Old Town. To be honest, we only ended up in this wonderful coastal town because we found the accommodation!
Setting Sun Catching Giovanezza
Out on the sea wall, looking back at the old town of Giovanezza. The beautiful sunsets bring such a beautiful soft light to the old white buildings.
One of Our Favourites - Cafe Crema
Kind-a like an ice coffee, but made with an espresso shot. Fantastic pick up for a hot day.
Interior - Basilica of Saint Nicholas
This church has the largest amount of relics of Saint Nicholas, after they were stolen from Turkey about 1000 years ago. From here, bones and bone fragments have been distributed to all corners of the globe.
Whipping Post - "Colonna della Giustizia"
In medieval times, debtors who defaulted on their financial obligations, were flogged at this point in Piazza Mercantile. A juxtaposition of something so horrible and a beautiful setting.
Castello Svevo, Bari
Had a great day in Bari. Last time we were in this part of the world, 20 something years ago, we by-passed Bari. Overall, we had a fantastic stop here.
Outside Castel del Monte
Oft used in Movies
Castel del Monte is a 13th century castle, built by Emperor Frederick II.
A beautiful octagonal structure, perfect for period settings, because of its magnificent proportions and its remoteness from all things modern.
Other than the ticketing system - you can't even go on line, you can only reserve using an App - in Italian.
I wonder what Frederick might have thought about groups of confused visitors crowded around tiny screens trying to work out how-the-hell they might be able to get inside!
Interesting Detail at the Entrance
Stairs Leading Down
A very old passage, leading from the street level entrance to the sanctuary down to the actual grotto.
Back in Abruzzo, the relentless heat envelopes Bomba. We curse the flies and mosquitoes. We mutter about the large glassless hole waiting for a window that turns our airconditioner from a useful appliance into a pointless wall decoration. We cower in corners of the room where the sun doesn't reach. We run ouside, arms stretched wide, when the slight post sunset breeze winds down through the town. Overnight temperatures are sometimes not even dipping below 25. Many evenings we applaud ourselves and the decision to turn the cellar in to a bedroom, as we enjoy the pleasant cool of the subterranean space.
Summer has also brought a significant rise in population for the town. Shutters are opened, and washing is hung from balconies. Paths are swept, and flowers appear on sills. Unfamiliar faces meander the streets, and the bar in the piazza is full. New neighbours from near Milan sit out and greet us as we pass - the heat is a common topic of conversation. The out-of-towners have come to their holiday houses, often inherited. It appears many are related to current residents, or have at least grown up in the village.
The number of non-Italians we meet for aperetivi has grown, with two Swedish couples coming down from their northern homes to their Italian retreats for the first time in a long time. Only here for a short time, we are trying to do a few things with them before they disappear again. Anders and Ankie, Anders and Katrin. So our limited expat population has two Swedes called Anders, and two Englishmen called Steve. Only one Australian called Richard, though. Two new semi-permanent residents are becoming regular encounters, although they are both splitting their time between Bomba and other places of residence and work. Karl is renting in the main street while he looks for a permanent abode, and ducks back to Berlin on a regular basis. Patrick, you'll never believe, is Irish. He bought a place, and drives down from Bergamo when he wants a break from splitting his work life between Bergamo and the United States.
With the influx of people there has been a rise in activities. It has been explained, the August calendar for Bomba is normally full, so this half full version is just a taste of regular years. However, after last year saw almost every event cancelled, people are pleased something is happening. The "gastronomic" event did not live up to expectations, as outside providers were not there. Not sure if they stayed away by covid regulations, or out of concern that the numbers might not be there to make it worthwhile, or whether there were other factors at play. Live music, open air cinema, along with a handful of other entertainment events, and suddenly there's a real buzz about. The two bars can barely cope - tables and chairs and patrons fill the space from one side of the piazza to the other. Reservations are mandatory. It's good to see and feel, but we are glad that this is not the permanent Bomba.
In an amusing discovery, it has become apparent that Mama Mia is actually a phrase that regular Italians use. What do you say when a child can't decide what flavour gelato to have? "Mama Mia." When someone double parks and blocks you in? You exclaim "Mama Mia!" Perhaps only a mutter, but when an official tells you off, under your breath, "Mama Mia". And when your pizza takes over an hour, the perfect accompaniament to Italian hand getstures, "Mama Mia!"
Grave, Unknown Soldier
Beautiful Location for a Cemetery
Beautifully maintained and manicured, wonderfully situated, and thoughtfully laid out. The war graves, primarily British, but also other Commonwealth countries in representation, are near the Sangro River. This was a front late in the war, when the Germans were retreating.
Patriotic
Somebody patriotic has had a go at turning the zebra crossing in to an Italian tricolour.
Pennadomo
Nearby Pennadomo.
Not All Roman Ruins are on a Grand Scale
The remains of a small theatre, at a very local archaeological site, Iuvanum.
So, we can't wait any longer to publish, so even though incomplete, it is the project closest to ready.
Problem Solved
As some know, we have been sleeping in the cellar, but until recently, we had no direct access from our house.
The trip from the kitchen to the bedroom involved going out to the street, and down to the next entrance, which led to the cellar.
More significantly, in the middle of the night, the trip obviously also involved heading outside and via the street. It took some time, but eventually our custom stairs arrived.
