8 to 16 January, 2020 - Tsodilo Hills, Okavango Delta, Moremi Game Reserve, Khama Rinosceros Sanctuary, Gaberone - (Botswana)
Returning, now, to regular programming...
Re-entering Botswana, we bumped and threw ourselves over many kilometres of dirt tracks, the object being to visit the Tsodilo Hills. A World Heritage site in north western Botswana, the ancient rock art from different eras of history adorn many faces of a pair of hills. These hills are the only variation in an otherwise vastly flat landscape, and were sacred and important to San and other nomadic peoples.
At the small visitor centre, we found a wonderful man from a local San tribe. His first name was Boo, but he introduced himself by his middle name. That was a name we have little chance of pronouncing, let alone remembering. It had a "click" in the middle, and he told us it meant "beloved" in his language. Let's just go with Boo, because we can deal with that.
It is very remote, and rarely visited at this time of year, their low season, and we were the first sign-ins for two days. During the high season, according to Boo, there are many guides, and they make multiple rounds per day. During the low season, only two or three guides hang about, and there are many days when they get nobody.
Boo took us on a walk for a few hours, and showed us some of the variations in the art styles. He described the eras for each set, what they used to make the pigments, and how they would have lived and used the pictures. He showed us important plants, those that have significance, and those that were used to locate grubs that could be turned in to poison for arrows. Being people who normally shun being shown around, but determining this was a good place to make an exception, we were so happy. Boo was the perfect guide.
Rhinos on the Rhino Trail
We visited the Tsodilo Hills to take in the ancient rock art. Following the "rhino trail", we visited some 12 painting sites.
Camping on site at Tsodilo Hills was an option, and being the only arrivals for the day, we made ourselves comfortable in the basic campground. Not long before dusk, another vehicle arrived. A beaming smile and a wave from the weary couple who had driven those tiring bumpy roads. "Hello, can we join you?" she called to us. I scanned the many vacant spots; "Sorry, I think we're full. You will have to go back." Our new neighbours set up in their own half of the campground, and Chris and Deola came and introduced themselves. Within minutes we were chatting and laughing like old friends over a glass of wine. Such an easy and natural pair to get on with, and by nightfall, we had combined our dinners - predominantly theirs, I must confess, as we had some fish to pan fry, and they had what looked like a kilogram of rump steak on their braai.
Chris and Deola
We thought we were the only campers at Tsodilo Hills for the night, when just before dark, some neighbours arrived. We had a fantastic evening of food, wine, and riveting conversation. Check out the amazing set up on their van! Our van seemed very puny and inconsequential in comparison!
Our target was an afternoon helicopter flight, our splurge. Over the Okavango Delta for 45 minutes, with late light.
Giraffe, from Above
You can see his tongue, and the oxpeckers on his back. He seems to be looking up at us, trying to work out what is going on.
A Decent Bloat of Hippos
In a pool on the Okavango Delta.
A Few Hippos Share
We counted 50+ hippos in total, in 4 or 5 bloats, in this one pool alone.
Big Yawn, Captured from Above
On our helicopter flight at the Okavango Delta.
View over the Okavango Delta
Looking Down to a Crane in Flight
A crane flies over the picturesque vegetation.
Giraffes at a Tree
They all seemed to be enjoying what looks like a not very tasty tree.
A Black and White Kingfisher
Grazing Elephant in Moremi
Before we even entered the reserve, we were treated to some beautiful moments.
Bathing Elephant in Moremi
Another Great Giraffe Expression
Red Lechwe Posing in the Beautiful Light
First Steps
A tender moment, as a mother Impala helps her newborn discover walking.
Hippos are Capable of Great Expressions, Too
Hippopotamus at Moremi Game Reserve checks us out.
Bedraggled
An afternoon storm came, and Jo and I managed to find some shelter from the tropical downpour. Even running 2 metres from the car to the shelter made us soaked. Obviously, it is the same for all the animals who get caught out there! This little mouse came in to join us.
Visitors for Breakfast
Zebras came to our campsite at Third Bridge while we were having our morning coffee.
Cheeky Look from a Zebra
Poking his Tongue Out at Us
Giraffe expressions continue to make us laugh, time and time again.
Practice
Adolescent lechwe butt heads in practice for adulthood, when it will mean so much more. For ten minutes or so, we watched three take it in turns to engage with each other, locking horns and pushing and butting, then prancing and leaping to re-engage once again.
Scanning for Prey
An unidentified hawk or falcon, perched and scanning.
Hornbill
There were many hornbills, gliding and swooping, or bouncing along at ground level through long grass. They seemed to like hanging around the tracks we drove, or maybe there are just so many.
Rescue Mission
This little turtle (I think, might be a tortoise, we were quite a way from water) was walking in the rut of the 4wd track. I couldn't leave him there, and felt obliged to move him a metre or two away from the highly dangerous path he had chosen to traverse.
Wildebeest
They are normally quite shy and flighty, but this one tolerated us getting quite close.
Pair of White Rhinos
Cheers to Chicken Night in Gaborone
