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Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts

Of Corse we Can

6 to 10 July, 2018 - Les Calanques de Piana, Bonifacio, Pinarello, Corte, Bastia - (Corsica, France)



We have had to say no to visiting Corsica on a few occasions, but this trip it was locked in. Ferries booked; car hire confirmed; expectations set. Our ferry from Marseille went overnight. Having splurged for a cabin, we slept very soundly. But then the boat arrived early, which did not at all suit us at all - we were awoken mid dreaming and then had to go ashore to find breakfast in Ajaccio to fill in time before the rental agency opened for business.

Departing Marseille
Departing Marseille
On the ferry, leaving Marseille, on our way to Ajaccio, Corsica.


Day one on the island we worked our way up and down the west coast. Many stops for photos, and I must confess not all were at safe places on the road. This was punctuated by dodgy u-turns, unsafe reversing, and running across the road on blind corners. No amount of danger should prevent the photographic capture of a beautiful scene.

Camembert Ice-cream
Camembert Ice-cream
It was way more delicious than it sounds. And we weren't getting anywhere near enough dairy in our diet.


Les Calanques de Piana
Les Calanques de Piana
On the west side of Corsica, a road runs ten kilometres or so along the coast, from Porto to Piana. Amazing views are just the start of the beauty in this stretch. The rusty ochre rock formations light up in the sun. Their peculiar shapes and forms inspire the imagination to perceive faces or animals. There were some stretches where we would only drive a few hundred metres before needing to stop for another photo. I believe we were quite the road hazard, stopping, backing up, turning around in tight spots.


View of Porto
View of Porto
The seaside village of Porto - one of the few spots along this coast where the road drops to sea level.


Les Calanques de Piana
Les Calanques de Piana
A more detailed shot of some of the rocky crags which make this drive so magnificent.


Love Love
Love Love

A lovely campsite for night one. Day two - down to Bonifacio at the southen part of the island. What we had not counted on was a fortuitous good timing with the Bonifacio light festival, festi lumi. This was a mini "white night", with the emphasis on light based entertainment. There were various entertainers about, art installations, and they combined to make the city a beautiful space to wander through and absorb. We spent four or more hours inside the citadel after sunset.

Part of the time was spent in the midst of a crowd, out the front of a bar, watching Croatia in a penalty shoot out with Russia. It was less about the game, and more about the atmosphere. 15 minutes of roars and sighs. It was difficult to work out exactly which side the crowd was on, and we got the feeling they were not caring so much about the winner but were just involved in the skills.

Moules et Frites
Moules et Frites
We've been hanging out for mussels since, well, before we even left Australia!


Citadel of Bonifacio
Citadel of Bonifacio
A stocky fortress in the south of Corsica. Bonifacio was a real highlight of the island.


Looking out from Bonifacio
Looking out from Bonifacio
The Bouches de Bonifacio, as viewed from the citadel.


Lanterns in Bonifacio
Lanterns in Bonifacio
As the night set in, the lanterns of the light festival lit up the labrynth of alleys within the citadel.


Video Projection
Video Projection
A captivating cycle of videos played on a pair of buildings at the western end of town. We watched the whole sequence many times. This is the face of Espace Saint-Jacques.


Silhouettes
Silhouettes
Reverse silhouettes were cast on walls in numerous locations around town. Children enjoyed adding their own shapes to the scenes. A video plays on the surface of an old tower in the background.


An Art Installation
An Art Installation
A mixture of music, light, and video brought this character through a range of incredible stages. It stirred emotions - Jo commenting that she found some of it disturbing. Job done, then, from the artist's perspective.


Video Projection
Video Projection
This is a still from the video projection on the tourist information building of Bonifacio.


The Walls of Bonifacio Lit up for the Light Festival
The Walls of Bonifacio Lit up for the Light Festival

The camping continued. Bonifacio, Pinarello, and Bastia. Each location different - each with its advantages. However, there was a major downside to our Bastia campsite. Its good location - near town - means that it was right next to a night club. We were forewarned, but it was qualified with "most Mondays they are not open". This Monday, they were. The music cranked up at 22:30, and thumped through tent until 2:00. It was actually harder to tolerate due to the DJ's general good choice of music. So we lay in bed, cross about the situation, singing along in our heads.

Picnic on the Rocks
Picnic on the Rocks
Pinarello. The beach was very nice, but for picnicking we headed on to the rocks. The setting sun lit up the Genoese tower on the little island.


Corte Citadel, Central Corsica
Corte Citadel, Central Corsica
Corte, a once was, and short-lived, capital of the island. Geographically, and to some extent culturally, the heart of Corsica.


Nid d'Aigle
Nid d'Aigle
The citadel in Corte is called Nid d'Aigle, the Eagle's Nest.


Riddled by Bullets
Riddled by Bullets
A battle scarred building in Corte.


Morning light on Bastia
Morning light on Bastia

Vieux Port, Bastia
Vieux Port, Bastia

Loire and Lot

28 June to 5 July, 2018 - Orleans, Blois, Saint Cirq Lapopie, Cahors, numerous other villages - (France)



We left Paris in our little hire car - tiny boot stuffed to capacity. Lunch was at a roadside restaurant with a two courses and wine special. These sorts of deals are par for the course in these parts. Don't know how the truckers do it, day after day. Eating a hearty meal with a glass of wine tends to induce sleep rather than perk up. I appreciated having Jo in the passenger seat, giving me a poke every now and then to ensure I remained awake.

We reached Orleans and found a great little campsite a few kilometres out. It's hard to describe the enjoyment we get from setting up the tent and doing things a little basic for a few days. Don't worry, basic in this part of the world includes fine cheese, saucisson, and fine local reds.

Orleans Streetscape
Orleans Streetscape
A typical view in the old town area of Orleans.


Orleans Cathedral
Orleans Cathedral
Joan of Arc attended mass here in 1429, when she was liberating the city from a siege.


Cathedral Interior, Orleans
Cathedral Interior, Orleans

"I Don't Care - Talk to the Hand"
"I Don't Care - Talk to the Hand"
Stained glass window, Orleans Cathedral.


Orleans is on the Loire River, and we felt it would be remiss not to visit at least one Chateau. We chose to go to Blois (pronounced Bluwah, or blWAAH if you are deliberately trying to make fun of the French Language). It was only meant to be a short stop en-route to one or two more fine places in the region, but we ended up becoming so immersed in the place that we filled the day there before returning to our camp.

Spiral Staircase - Chateau de Blois
Spiral Staircase - Chateau de Blois

Avoiding toll roads does add some time to the drive, but also keeps things a little more interesting. Adding in some stops, our journey to the Lot River was quite a big day, arriving at our destination of Saint Cirq Lapopie by late afternoon. If you think it juvenile that we made fun of how to pronounce Blois, then the childishness continued for the next few days. We created numerous different ways of saying Saint Cirq Lapopie. For a start, there are so many syllables which can take the emphasis. Then, you can inflect up, down, or mix it round. And there is almost no limit to how high you can take the highest note. For example, start low on "Son", follow with a middle toned "Cirrk", and go wild with "lah-POHH-pee". That's kind-a how we ended up doing it most times.

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie
Saint-Cirq-Lapopie
Around 23 years ago, we came through Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. It was siesta, and the place was deserted. In spite of this, or maybe because of it, the town stayed with us. Jo vowed, many times, that we would return one day and stay here. And so, here we are, to fulfil that undertaking.


Population 200
Population 200
Viewing the medieval centre of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, from the ruined castle at the top of the hill.


Sophie's
Sophie's
This is the house we rented in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. Basement - Kitchen and garden (the town is incredibly sloped!). Ground floor - Entry, sitting area, and bathroom. First floor - Lounge, and great views from front and back. Attic - Bedroom and toilet, and more great views.


500 Year Old Fireplace
500 Year Old Fireplace
Sophie confided that the fireplace was a significant fitting that swayed their decision to buy this property. I don't blame them - I would easily be swayed by that single feature, too.


View out the Back
View out the Back
View from the house we rented - Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.


A little under a week was enough time to do a few excursions, not spending too long in the car on any day. So many delightful towns and villages to explore.

Vignac
Vignac
We climbed to the castle and clambered all over it. Afterwards, we rewarded ourselves with an ice cream in the square by the church. Excellent efforts deserve recognition.


Autoire
Autoire
Autoire is different to so many of the other pretty medieval towns. Those that have tended to survive and retain their character are those with castles and forts, typically perched on hills and clifftops. Quaint Autoire is nestled in a valley.


Turrets in Autoire
Turrets in Autoire

Loubressac
Loubressac
Another village in the collection of the most beautiful villages in France.


Carrenac
Carrenac
Carrenac is very striking. The imposing castle, abbey, and cathedral dwarf all the other buildings in town.


Medieval Buildings, Carrenac
Medieval Buildings, Carrenac

Through the Gate
Through the Gate
View of the cathedral steps.


In a Hurry
In a Hurry
Detail from the carvings above the cathedral entrance.


Fortified Medieval Bridge
Fortified Medieval Bridge
This bridge in Cahors was one of the most important bridges over the Lot River. It is incredibly impressive, and significantly iconic.


Stained Glass, Cahors Cathedral
Stained Glass, Cahors Cathedral

By the Road, Somewhere in France
By the Road, Somewhere in France











50, and We're in Paris

24 to 28 June, 2018 - Paris, Giverny - (France)



We are in Paris, yet our luggage isn't. Our packs are somewhere between Melbourne and Paris. "You will be happy to know, sir, that your bags have been found." That is, I guess, good news - location known. I don't know if I should be happy, though, because `bags.location() != us.location()`. Ultimately, `us.happy = bags.location() == us.location()`.

We have been told to go shopping. Not quite how we want to spend our first day in Paris. Especially when we have been on planes and in airports for 30 hours. And particularly since the first items we need to acquire are underwear, socks, and tee-shirts. We thought we might come out very fashionable, like National Lampoons European Vacation: National Lampoon

Shopping gave us a focus and prevented us from succumbing to sleep too early. By the time we got to our apartment, we had underwear and socks for 2 days, and a part change of clothes each. Supplies for dinner had also been collected - enough fromage and saucisson to sink a bateau. We picnicked at the window with our "to die for" view of the Eiffel Tower. Bed time was not late, we slept well, and awoke the next morning very entrenched in European time.

View from our Bed
View from our Bed
The apartment description said "Eiffel Tower views". We still anticipated we would have to lean out, or stand on a box, or that it only works if the planets are aligned and it's Wednesday. But no, the tower looked like that, from every window.


We are loving our accommodation. We did not realise, though, that we slept within a block or so of the same location in 1995. Significantly different, though, was the fact that back then there were four of us, not two. Our accommodation then was a big yellow Volkswagen camper-van, parked in a quiet nook, in a not entirely legal manner.

I feel, at times, like we are in a big magic show. Children running around saying "voila" make me think they are about to pull some doves out of their sleeves.

So, day 2, Jo's birthday, and still none of our stuff has arrived. We had a glass of champagne at the Westin hotel, before hitting the shops again - some nicer clothes for dinner. And we met up with Alister and Anahi, friends from Melbourne, who flew in to Paris to celebrate with us. They are staying a few metro stops away.

Dessert, on the Actual Birthday
Dessert, on the Actual Birthday
We think everybody at the restaurant sang. Our desserts came out, in spectacular fashion, and we ate them with coffee while the tower sparkled before us.


Day 3, still no clothes, and so we venture in to the shops once again. Sight seeing along the way included the sewer museum, and an art exhibition where we unknowingly walked in through the exit. It was only when we eventually finished at the entrance that we realised we had done it back to front, and we were supposed to have bought tickets.

An hour or so before dinner, our luggage was finally delivered - 55 hours after we landed in Paris. We changed in to our allocated finery before heading out to fulfill a 25 year desire of Jo's. Dinner at Maxim's.

Maxims
Maxims
The sumptuous interior of Maxims. I thought we were dining late, but were only the 3rd couple to be seated at 20:15. The majority arrived quite a while after us. It gave us an opportunity to snap a couple of pics without too many people.


The Birthday Dinner
The Birthday Dinner
Maxim's was closed on Monday. So, we had our special dinner there the following night. A decadent splurge for an amazing wife. Congratulations on your milestone year.


Obligatory Post Dinner Stop
Obligatory Post Dinner Stop
Since our apartment was so close, we felt that stopping by Trocadero was not optional. Birthday snap in our birthday finery.


Alister was quite unwell, and had spent the previous day in his room - mainly sleeping. On our final day together, he perked up somewhat, and the four of us went to the gardens of Claude Monet in nearby Giverny.

We had a final meal together, watching the world cup in a Portuguese bar. We're heading south, and they're off to Greece.

The Impression of Being a Painting
The Impression of Being a Painting
A popular spot for a photo or a painting, in Monet's garden in Giverny.


No Joyce, just Annie, Al, and Jo
No Joyce, just Annie, Al, and Jo
Joyce was not ready for the photo, yet. Her friends went to look for her. We got our photo, and never worked out if elusive Joyce was found, or if she had in fact ditched her bossy travel companions.


Dinner with Anahi and Alister
Dinner with Anahi and Alister
Alister and Anahi flew in to Paris to meet up with us for a few days, to celebrate. This was the final meal we had together in Paris. It was at a crowded little Portuguese Bar, with tables spilling on to the street (literally, people drinking between parked cars), so they could squeeze as many people in as possible. Brazil were playing in the world cup.


Full Moon and Eiffel Tower
Full Moon and Eiffel Tower
On our final night, the moon looked so amazing. I probably should have used a prop of some sort - I had no tripod - but it came out well enough held by hand.