Current Travels

Showing posts with label wildlife: bats. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wildlife: bats. Show all posts

Reaching the Colombian Caribbean

5 to 12 January, 2012 – Tolú, Cartagena (Colombia)



After a long haul on the bus, we arrived at the Caribbean coast, at a town called Tolú. Largely bypassed by foreign visitors, but a popular place with Colombian tourists, the town partied till all hours. Tolú is a base for boat trips to the Islas San Bernardo, tiny Caribbean islands with white sand beaches surrounded by mangroves. Despite the disappointing snorkelling, we had a great day trip, enjoying some sun, some swimming, and a beer or two.

Wonky
Wonky
A pier on a tiny island in the Caribbean archipelago, Islas de San Bernardo, near Tolú, Colombia.


Those parties? They happen anywhere and everywhere. Even at our hotel! One guy had a pair of speakers, about a metre high, in the doorway of his room, plugged in to his laptop. A variety of music blasted out for many hours, on to the terrace and across to all the rooms. Surprisingly, this is not something that a Colombian hotel thinks is a problem. At one point, amongst the random tunes, a couple of tango numbers made an appearance. Jo commented that "Unless they are actually doing a tango, there is no excuse for the music to be that loud." I had to look - and yes, a few couples were out of their rooms and on the terrace, tangoing!

But, it was a nice place to be to celebrate 22 years of marriage – you can't complain when you are at the Caribbean, can you. We did have to leave our anniversary dinner until we were in Cartagena. Limited options in Tolú meant that, despite our seafood stew there being one of the most amazing dishes we have ever eaten, the atmosphere was lacking somewhat.

Cartagena, on the other hand, overflows with atmosphere. The centre is full of centuries old Colonial architecture, photogenic on every turn. It turned in to nearly a full week. Much of that time was spent wandering, exploring, discovering.

Luna Llena
Luna Llena
The full moon rises, Cartagena.


Hamburger Flavoured?
Hamburger Flavoured?
The picture implies it is not just mince meat flavour, but tomato, lettuce, cheese, and bun. That's a lot of tastes to cram in to a chip.


Cheeky
Cheeky
A bat in the old storerooms of a fort near Cartagena, looking up to pose for the camera.


Cartagena
Cartagena
A plaza in Cartagena, Colombia.


Saintly Skull
Saintly Skull
A monk, known for devoting his life ministering to the slaves of Cartagena, now entombed in a glass coffin in the church altar.


Iguana Door Knocker
Iguana Door Knocker
Cartagena, Colombia.


Smiling Wife
Smiling Wife

Kite-surfer at Sunset
Cartagena, Colmobia.
Cartagena, Colmobia.


Cartagena Street-lamp
Cartagena Street-lamp

A One-eyed, One-armed, One-legged Hero
A One-eyed, One-armed, One-legged Hero
Statue of Blas de Lezo. In previous battles, he lost an eye, an arm, and a leg, Despite this, and against all odds (25,000 to 2,500), this Spaniard successfully led the defence of Cartagena from a British naval attack. In the process, he lost his other leg, and ultimately his life. But he did get to become a statue!


Part of the Maze
Part of the Maze
One of the many tunnels that twists and winds underneath Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. This clever network includes dead ends and false passages to confuse attackers, and runs at multiple levels.


The Magnificent Castle of Cartagena
The Magnificent Castle of Cartagena
The Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, an impressive fort of Cartagena. This view is from a nearby shopping centre food court, a nice air conditioned spot for a break and a bite after a few hours exploring.


Cartagena, Colombia
Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena, Colombia
Cartagena, Colombia


There were a couple of day trips, too.

Three Adults Share the Front Seat in a Taxi
Three Adults Share the Front Seat in a Taxi
After a convoluted sequence of transport changes, we ended up in an overloaded and cramped taxi, which then stopped to pick up two more passengers! I really didn't think there was space, but apparently I was wrong.


Mudding Up
Mudding Up
This was in Volcán de Lodo el Totumo., Colombia. After ascending this tiny volcano of mud, we joined the hordes of Colombians and immersed ourselves. The mud was thick, almost like a gel, and kept us extremely buoyant. The bottom could not be touched, but sinking would not even be possible. The biggest danger was letting your feet get near the surface, because the most difficult thing was fighting the tendency to float, and get your legs and feet back down.


Everyone Gets In The Mud
Everyone Gets In The Mud
Fun for all the family. Volcán de Lodo el Totumo, Colombia.


Rinsing Off
Rinsing Off
After the mud bath, it is down to the river to swim yourself clean. Volcán de Lodo el Totumo, Colombia.


On an entirely different note, there are the odd products one finds for sale in foreign countries. I'm not just referring to hamburger flavoured chips, but how about hair products with sheep placenta to help stop hair falling out and encourage regrowth. Or bottles of treatments made from "real duck embryos". Hmmmm....

Nicaragua, South Western Corner

30 Mar to 7 Apr, 2009 - San Carlos, El Castillo, and Islas Solentiname, Nicaragua



San Carlos, on the eastern sure of the incredibly large Lago de Nicaragua (go on, look it up on a map, it is huge!), right where the Río San Juan begins it journey out of the lake snaking eastward to the Pacific. San Carlos, so isolated, yet with so many connections. You can fly in, but the flights are the priciest and least flexible option. There are bus connections to everywhere that you don't need to go, as well as routes that travellers may use but are horrid trips. This includes the tortuous 10 hour to Managua option. Finally, there are the boats. Down river, across river, and out to innumerable destinations on or around the lake. All our comings and goings for the last week have been water based, so when we eventually get back on a bus, it may feel a bit odd.

We came from Costa Rica via a little town called Los Chiles, where we did immigration formalities and boarded a collectivo boat. This took us down river, past a little house painted in camouflage, which was the Nicaraguan border post and eventually on to the shark infested river of Río San Juan. Ferocious bull sharks, like the ones we saw in Corcovado, Costa Rica. However, not just shark infested, but giant prawn infested! Hey, if you don't believe these fresh water babies are giant, check the photo! ¡Que rico!


Now That's A Prawn
Now That's A Prawn
The fresh water prawns in the Río San Juan are notoriously big. This is a prawn in shrimp sauce!



We left San Carlos, by boat, down river to El Castillo. Fast boat or slow? Take the slow, at half the price, and not at all pressed for time, it also allows us to take in the afternoon bird life along the banks. Three and a bit hours later, we rounded the bend where the fort came in to view. So beautifully set, and such a cute wooden town below. We have time, don't we? Yeah, let's stay a few days. Relax, eat some more prawns, and try and interpret the menus. These are the things to do in El Castillo.


La Forteleza
La Forteleza
The fort above the lovely town of El Castillo.


Down River
Down River
View down the river San Juan from La Forteleza, atop a hill on a bend in the river. El Castillo, Nicaragua.


He/She Intersects The Meat?  It Muffles In Flour?
He/She Intersects The Meat? It Muffles In Flour?
People should not rely on internet based translators exclusively. Perhaps finding a native speaker of the target language, or even someone with a reasonable grasp of it, may avoid some of the more unusual results.



After our relaxing, it was time to putt back up the river to San Carlos, and catch the collectivo boat (which runs twice a week) out to the islands of Solentiname. Maybe a good place to relax! Are you detecting any sort of theme here?

The islands have a bit of a reputation for good art, and many residents paint or sculpt. The style was spotted and cultivated within the community by a priest, Ernesto Cardenal. Now, their art has somewhat of a high standing in various international arenas. When not in Managua, Ernesto still often returns to the islands where he has a place on Mancarrón. And the church there is a gorgeously simple structure, built and decorated by the people in a style intended to reflect those people. Many of the pictures were created by children of the community, a wonderful touch. Ernesto has been known to upset the Pope with some of his ideas, but it is hard to criticise a man who encourages people to express and share what God and His Word, The Bible, means to them. Interpretation through their own eyes, and lived through their own lives. Relevance is so under appreciated. Ernesto recorded and published many of the islanders views and opinions in what became known as The Peasant's Mass.


Church Interior – Islas Solentiname
Church Interior – Islas Solentiname
Detail from one wall of the church built under the guidance of Ernesto Cardenal on Isla Mancarrón, Islas Solentiname.


Church Interior – Islas Solentiname
Church Interior – Islas Solentiname
Altar area of the church built under the guidance of Ernesto Cardenal on Isla Mancarrón, Islas Solentiname.



We spent a couple of nights on Isla Mancarrón, and a couple on Isla San Fernando. More boat trips, more relaxing. One boat trip was to Isla Venada to visit a cave filled with petroglyphs, believed to be about a thousand years old. Also filled with bats, the cave can only be visited in the dry season when water levels are low. We also managed to walk some trails around Isla San Fernando, to find some more petroglyphs. It seems art has been a part of this island for quite a long time.


Petroglyphs
Petroglyphs
Faces from eras past, carved into the walls of a waterline cave on an island in Lake Nicaragua.


Smile!
Smile!
A bat poses for a photo!



So eventually, back to San Carlos by boat. Just for a few hours, because two schedules finally worked together nicely so that we can catch the ferry on the same day, right across the lake to Islas de Ometepe. Only a 9 to 12 hour ferry. Oh, did I mention that the lake is huge?

Bocas

9 to 12 Feb, 2009 – Isla Bastimentos, Panama



Bocas del Toro, and more specifically, Isla Bastimentos. These Caribbean islands are so unlike what we expected.

The people and the language, Gadi Gadi, are distinct from the general Panamanian population. The inhabitants are primarily of Jamaican decent, who came over in the centuries and decades past to build railroads and work on the banana plantations. The language is a veritable soup of English, Spanish, and Creole. Of course, there is a distinctive Jamaican look about the people, too.

Geographically, I guess we expected the beaches to be more swimmer friendly. Although we got to spend some time on the sand amongst the mangroves, the snorkelling was nothing much, and we couldn't go far out because of the rips and the pounding surf. Really, the beaches are much more suited to those with a surf board.

From the balcony of our hospedaje, we have the pleasure of being visited by numerous hummingbirds. Even more special, though, is the endemic poison dart frogs living on the trees in the garden. Bright red, green, or yellow, they are not particularly quick, relying on their toxicity as a deterrent to being eaten.


Strawberry Poison Dart Frog
Strawberry Poison Dart Frog
Stunning warning colours on a slow moving and extremely cute frog.


And ... Action!
And ... Action!
Green poison dart frog shows that he is capable of leaping.


Glorious Details
Glorious Details
Fantastic pattern on the back of a green poison dart frog.


Making New Friends
Making New Friends
A green poison dart frog gets very friendly.


Hanging In There
Hanging In There
My new friend scrambles to retain his grip on my t-shirt.



Today, we did a boat trip around to the other side of the island, and then up a creek. From there we walked to the entrance of a bat-filled cave. We walked up the river that was flowing out the mouth of the cave, and it got progressively deeper. Soon we were waist deep, and eventually chest deep (for me, in any case; for Jo it was almost up to her shoulders). Finally, we scrambled up some wet rocks to a subterranean lake, complete with mini waterfall. This was the furthest we could go in the cave. Turning off the torches, it was black as black, with not a single peep of light. Thankfully, the bats' radars were working, as we felt them fly narrowly over our heads.


Chest Deep
Chest Deep
We visited this bat-filled cave, accessible via a river only. At times, we were chest deep (or in Jo's case, shoulder deep). In the deepest part there was a swimmable subterranean lake. Just like being outside, but pitch black and with bats.


Leaf Cutters
Leaf Cutters
Leaf cutter ants use a bridge to cross the creek.


A pet iguana
A pet iguana
Residents in the jungle keep a pet iguana.

Brunei, and in to Sarawak

29 to 31 Dec 2007 - Bandar Seri Begawan, Gunung Mulu, Miri - (Brunei, Malaysia)



Some retrospective notes - made in 2018!

Visiting 6 star Empire Hotel

Bats


Royal Regalia Museum
Royal Regalia Museum

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

Boys in makeshift boats, Brunei.
Boys in makeshift boats, Brunei.
These boys were fishing for shrimps under the houses in Kampung Ayer, BSB, Brunei.


In the foyer of the "Empire Hotel"
In the foyer of the "Empire Hotel"
With Peter, from St Andrew's church in BSB. This hotel is a step up from the accommodation we are accustomed to. No, we didn't stay here, just stopped by for a mocktail...


Pitcher plant - Carniverous jungle plant
Pitcher plant - Carniverous jungle plant

A friend on a leaf
A friend on a leaf

Strike a pose!
Strike a pose!

Not flying at the moment.
Not flying at the moment.
Flying lizard. The folded skin can be stretched tight, allowing the lizard to glide between trees.


@quot;The Rock of Enlightenment@quot;
"The Rock of Enlightenment"
Surely this is the place to stand if you want to hear from God!


Stream of bats
Stream of bats
Millions of bats exit one of the Mulu caves as they head out in the late afternoon to feed. A constant stream for over an hour, like a giant twisting ribbon.


Bloody annoying mozzies!
Bloody annoying mozzies!
Note the mosquitoes biting and flying around this frog.


More mozzies!
More mozzies!
Note the mosquitoes biting and flying around this frog.


Mushies!
Mushies!

Mulu caves
Mulu caves

Mulu Caves
Mulu Caves