A Giro, For Eurovision

8 to 17 May, 2026 - Chioggia, Ljubljana, Ptuj, Trakoscan, Bratislava, Vienna, Gorica - (Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Slovakia, Austria)


Woohoo. Eurovision.

We decided to drive to this year's Eurovision, held in Vienna (although we stayed in Bratislava). It became a "giro", as they say in Italian. A trip; a tour; a spin. Five countries (six if you include our stops in the Republic of San Marino to get fuel).

Chioggia was our first destination, recently in our field of vision of Italian destinations. It just worked out so well in terms of distance to drive, direction, and something novel and new.

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A Selfie in Chioggia
In front of the Holy Trinity Church (now mueseum).


Chioggia. Never Heard of It
The quiet fishing town of Chioggia, at the southern end of the Venetian Lagoon, dubbed "Little Venice" due to the similar architecture, the canals, the old bridges. It's largely unknown to foreign tourists. When mentioned to Italians, we generally got a response of recognition, even admiration, as they fondly recalled visiting once or twice in their youth.

Compact, with only a small number of canals, it lacks the iconic black Venetian gondolas. This is a real life town, full of locals living their working lives. Not too crowded, slow and easy is the visiting pace.

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Going through Slovenia was unavoidable, so stopping in Slovenia became mandatory. Two different accommodations. One in Ptuj, and one nearby.

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Every Visit
Each time we visit Ljubljana, we visit the dragons on the bridge. I think we have posted blog photos from most of those stops. We greet them, like old friends, reach up and pat a claw or hold their tails. Its our tradition in this small and compact capital. They have never let us down.


Another Every Visit Tradition - Polnjeni Kalamari
Oh, we look forward to those little squid, stuffed with prosciutto and cheese, cooked in butter, garlic, and wine. My mouth is watering just writing about them.


Isn't Ptuj so Pretty
One of Europe's hidden gems, not far from the Slovenian capital. The skyline, for us, is one of the prettiest in Europe. Ptuj remains off the mass tourist trail. Quiet and authentic, with barely a selfie stick in sight.

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No nights in Croatia.

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A Short Diversion
Looking for a day trip to be undertaken from Ptuj, we discovered Trakoscan, in North Western Croatia. Built as a fortress and observation post, it was refashioned over the centuries in to a fairytale castle.

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We then overshot Vienna by a small amount, and stayed five nights in Bratislava apartment. Slovakia has more to offer than most know about.

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Ruined Hrad Pajstun
Finding this was quite an adventure in itself. The route up lacked clear signage so we just walked along forest trails, heading upward and to higher ground whenever presented with a choice. Eventually, we found ourselves at the base of the remains of the impressively tall walls. The forgotten ruined fortress overtaken by nature.


Some Gargoyles Survived
It was by order of Napoleon that this castle was blown apart. Six gargoyles were on this part of wall, and five survived. The other lay at our feet as we looked up. A nice touch to the romantic ruin.


In Bratislava Old Town
We chose Bratislava to be our base. Although we were travelling for Eurovision, being hosted in Vienna, we decide on the Slovakian capital for our accommodation. A relatively short drive away, we found it the perfect solution. Much cheaper, and after stopping in a few years ago, a proper stay in Bratislava was well and truly on the cards.


A Visitor
So, one morning in Bratislava, we opened the curtain of our apartment...


Exploring Another Ruin Castle
The destruction of Deviski Hrad is also attributable to Napoleon. Again, large amounts of gunpowder strategically placed to ensure that the defences were compromised enough to render them useless and irreparable.

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From Bratislava, we travelled to Vienna. Twice. We had tickets for the second semi final, as well as the grand final. Travelling on the train was free for ticket holders, so we parked conveniently in the outskirts. Adorned in our Eurovision finery, the train was overflowing with fellow attendees. It was a wonderful atmosphere, just getting in and out.

As for the event itself. Amazing. So amazing. We had floor access for both the events, getting us close to the action, and in the thick of it with the die-hard fans. The waiting time was spent getting to know some of the randoms nearby, most who had travelled substantial distances across Europe to be there. We talked to them about our favourites, what we thought about their country's entrant, about Eurovisions past. We talked about why we were there - not us personally, but Australia as a competing nation - and also why and how we were there, personally.

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Eurovision Semi Final Day


Eurovision Grand Final Day


Our Delta and Eclipse

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The trip back to Bomba we did in a single day. Arising early, stopping for lunch in Slovenia, making a long coffee stop in a weird political and geographical anomaly town, and then back to Bomba. About 17 hours with stops. Big final day, but keen to get back to our own bed.

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While I Stand in Gorizia, Jo is in Nova Gorica
Together in Trg Evrope, Europe Square. After the Second World War, this town was split. A metal fence ran through the town, and while the old centre remained in Italy, Yugoslavia built a modern socialist "model city" on their side. In 2004, when Slovenia joined the EU, the wall was pulled down and the open square became a new focus for the city.

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Meeting Bhutan

15 to 18 Sep, 2024 - Thimphu - (Bhutan)



Arriving at Bhutan's international airport, you quickly get the sense of how quaint and boutique the experience is going to be. The single runway; the tiny terminal beautifully presented; being the only plane of note in sight; the small arrivals space with respectful images of the royal family; and the two baggage carousels.


Bhutan Baggage Carousel
On arrival at Paro airport, collecting baggage is a uniquely Bhutanese affair, with the two baggage carousels running around models of the country's two finest Dzongs.

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But let's wind back 40 minutes or so. Approaching the land of the thunder dragon, we felt like Khalesi on her dragon. Mountains to the left and right of the plane as the pilot weaved the slowing aircraft along the valley, only straightening for the runway 30 seconds or so before the wheels hit the tarmac. Skillfully done, but even the locals say it takes some getting used to.

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Paro Airport, Surrounded by Mountains
Back in Paro, we got another view of the airport, highlighting how there are no real approaches that don't avoid weaving through the terrain.

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Our flight from Bangkok left at 5:00 a.m. We awoke at 2. Our Paro arrival was early, but our hotel was expecting us. Or so we thought. It is festival time in Thimphu, and accommodation is in high demand. For whatever reason, the hotel thought our reservation was suspect and might have been a scam, so they ignored it. The manager was so embarrassed, and arranged a nearby apartment as an alternative, owned by his sister-in-law, or so we gather. This, though, had us staying in an even less touristed area of a quite untouristy city. Which suited us to a tee.

But, what is this festival? Thimphu Tsechu. Although we had little control over our exact arrival day in Bhutan, after booking, we realised it had us arriving on the last day of this beautiful three day festival. So, airport to hotel (which became apartment), and then off the the main Dzong in Thimphu. Although not terribly bleary eyed, it was very helpful to have such an activity to keep us going through what turned out to be such a long day.

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Everyone Wears their Finest
It is Thimphu Tsechu time, and everyone comes dressed in their finest. Some of the younger Bhutanese seemed less satisfied with wearing their finery, but this baby is not yet old enough to mind.


Joining the Crowd
Coming up the stairs at the back of the Dzong, we were not quite ready for the scene. The open space with colourfully clothed dancers, and thousands of spectators filling every available vantage spot.


Searching for Space to Sit
We slowly circuited, watching for people stirring in a "we're about to leave" kind of way. The tsechu runs for three full days, with spectators coming and going at any time. So, it was a patience game.


Eventually we were Seated
It did not take too long, and we found a spot big enough for two. We had to climb around a few people, but that was not considered an issue - given the lack of spaces. Everyone remained seated, and men in official capacity walked around, reminding people who were standing or putting up umbrellas, to get down and not block anyone's views. People walking and looking for seats could not stop for longer than 20 or 30 seconds before being moved along.


Meeting Locals
On our way out of the Dzong, leaving the tsechu, we passed many families stopping to take photos of each other to remember the day. We found it easy to be included, and realised they liked taking us in their photos as much as we enjoyed them being included in ours.


Jo, and Local Ladies
The outfit for women is known as the Kira.


The Young Man on the Left Studies in Perth
Men wearing traditional outfits, known as the Gho.

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Even before arriving, on the flight, we had a glimpse in to the Bhutanese reliance on chilli. Chilli was included in the breakfast menu. At lunch, we had our first "ema datse", lots of cut open peppers cooked in a cheesy sauce. Chilli was the star of both our dinner items. In fact, breakfast our second day, when we had eggs and toast, was the first meal where the chilli was just a spicey home made sauce on the side.

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Bhutanese Cuisine Uses Chilli, a Lot
It is probably the first time we have been given dishes where chilli is the vegetable, not just the condiment. And then, they add chilli sauce to their chilli based dishes.

The market had tons, with some piles approaching a metre in height.


A Family of Takin
Motithang Takin Preserve.


National Animal of Bhutan - Takin
Part goat, part cow, part yak, part moose. They're big, and quite unusual.


Thimphu's "Dancing Policeman"
Traffic control in downtown Thimphu. The reliable story is, the position of directing traffic was replaced with an automatic system, known as traffic lights. However, whether people just didn't like them, or whether they didn't understand, eventually the only traffic lights in the whole country were eventually removed and the flamboyant white gloved "dancers" were returned to the intersection.


Prayer Wheels - Zangto Pelri Lhakhang



Prayer Wheels - National Memorial Chorten



We Climbed to Buddha Dordenma



Perhaps her Grandparents
Circling the base of Buddha Dordenma.


Inside Simtokha Dzong, Thimphu


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Bhuddhist Prayers and Chanting in Simtokha Dzong
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Photos and videos are not allowed inside the halls, but we were allowed to enter.

In fact, we got some smiles from a handful of the rows and rows of monks who were inside, as we made our way as discretely as we could, from the door to some cushions by the wall.

Two blocks of monks sat facing each other. four rows of robed men and boys, on each side of the temple. The front row had drums, and a few wind instruments were played in the back rows.

Up the front, one very auspicious looking gentleman led them all. His throat singing deeper than I thought possible. In front of each monk, pages and pages of loose leaves with what looked like hand written prayers. Without direction, the instruments and drums instinctively played, the rhythm accelerating and the chanting building, and suddenly, they stop. A short lull. Then, again, the scores of monks continue in slow deep tones.

We had been in there fifteen minutes or so, but they had been obviously going for quite some time, when the instruments were laid down. Quietly, a few monks weaved in and out, carrying large flasks of hot tea, and baskets of bread or cake, and served some refreshment to those who had been praying. This pause was not long. Ten minutes or so, and then, they began again.

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Adventures to Finish Botswana

8 to 16 January, 2020 - Tsodilo Hills, Okavango Delta, Moremi Game Reserve, Khama Rinosceros Sanctuary, Gaberone - (Botswana)


A slight diversion from the travel specifics, to start this blog entry. We have camped at some beautiful grounds in the wild, and had some interesting and varied visitors. Mainly for memory sake, we decided it worth listing those that came by. Day time visits were dominated by antelope, primarily impalas and red lechwe; primates represented by baboons and vervet monkeys; special mention to the giraffes at Chobe and the zebras in Moremi; our swimming Hippo neighbour (Charlie) at Ihaha; and countless birds, with hornbills, kingfishers, and bee-eaters standing out. Night time visits included hippos and hyenas. And we had reports from rangers that we had lions on one evening somewhere in the ground, and a leopard on another. I am going to try to forget the ever present moths that tried to suicide in our wine and dinner. The vast variety of large millipedes and beetles was bewildering, too, but loved the dung beetle who pushed her ball from one end to the other in an amazing world record time.

Returning, now, to regular programming...

Re-entering Botswana, we bumped and threw ourselves over many kilometres of dirt tracks, the object being to visit the Tsodilo Hills. A World Heritage site in north western Botswana, the ancient rock art from different eras of history adorn many faces of a pair of hills. These hills are the only variation in an otherwise vastly flat landscape, and were sacred and important to San and other nomadic peoples.

At the small visitor centre, we found a wonderful man from a local San tribe. His first name was Boo, but he introduced himself by his middle name. That was a name we have little chance of pronouncing, let alone remembering. It had a "click" in the middle, and he told us it meant "beloved" in his language. Let's just go with Boo, because we can deal with that.

It is very remote, and rarely visited at this time of year, their low season, and we were the first sign-ins for two days. During the high season, according to Boo, there are many guides, and they make multiple rounds per day. During the low season, only two or three guides hang about, and there are many days when they get nobody.

Boo took us on a walk for a few hours, and showed us some of the variations in the art styles. He described the eras for each set, what they used to make the pigments, and how they would have lived and used the pictures. He showed us important plants, those that have significance, and those that were used to locate grubs that could be turned in to poison for arrows. Being people who normally shun being shown around, but determining this was a good place to make an exception, we were so happy. Boo was the perfect guide.

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Rhinos on the Rhino Trail
We visited the Tsodilo Hills to take in the ancient rock art. Following the "rhino trail", we visited some 12 painting sites.

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Camping on site at Tsodilo Hills was an option, and being the only arrivals for the day, we made ourselves comfortable in the basic campground. Not long before dusk, another vehicle arrived. A beaming smile and a wave from the weary couple who had driven those tiring bumpy roads. "Hello, can we join you?" she called to us. I scanned the many vacant spots; "Sorry, I think we're full. You will have to go back." Our new neighbours set up in their own half of the campground, and Chris and Deola came and introduced themselves. Within minutes we were chatting and laughing like old friends over a glass of wine. Such an easy and natural pair to get on with, and by nightfall, we had combined our dinners - predominantly theirs, I must confess, as we had some fish to pan fry, and they had what looked like a kilogram of rump steak on their braai.

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Chris and Deola
We thought we were the only campers at Tsodilo Hills for the night, when just before dark, some neighbours arrived. We had a fantastic evening of food, wine, and riveting conversation. Check out the amazing set up on their van! Our van seemed very puny and inconsequential in comparison!

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Although asphalted, the road from Tsodilo Hills to Maun presented its own challenges. Hundreds of kilometres, with some good stretches that allowed you to drop your guard and gain some speed, only to be suddenly confronted by potholes the size of an open pit mine, without enough time to brake safely.

Our target was an afternoon helicopter flight, our splurge. Over the Okavango Delta for 45 minutes, with late light.

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Giraffe, from Above
You can see his tongue, and the oxpeckers on his back. He seems to be looking up at us, trying to work out what is going on.


A Decent Bloat of Hippos
In a pool on the Okavango Delta.


A Few Hippos Share
We counted 50+ hippos in total, in 4 or 5 bloats, in this one pool alone.


Big Yawn, Captured from Above
On our helicopter flight at the Okavango Delta.


View over the Okavango Delta


Looking Down to a Crane in Flight
A crane flies over the picturesque vegetation.


Giraffes at a Tree
They all seemed to be enjoying what looks like a not very tasty tree.

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Adventure followed, as we pushed our little petrol Nissan Patrol to its limits. We went to the Moremi Game Reserve, part of the Okavango Delta, for four days. It's been raining. It's been raining quite a bit. We were fully prepared for sandy tracks, and we were prepared for rough tracks. We were prepared for soggy stretches, and deep muddy trenches. We were prepared to have to go without any path or road. We were not ready for dozens of large holes that were almost thigh deep water and slosh. Relentless, one after the other, for kilometres. Our poor little car got pushed, low range and not so high clearance. But it got us through. Many. Day 1 almost got stuck. Day 2, stuck for a minute or 2, with the exhaust gurgling in the mud, we managed to get out. Day 3, I think we might have gone too deep, but momentum got us to the muddy climb out - which we only barely clambered out. And Day 4, got stuck for a few minutes, but wiggled through. Maybe it was that one which was our undoing. 9 or 10 kilometres before the exit, Patrol died. It would start, and idle, but would not get any revs up, all necessary for just driving, let alone mud plunging. I knew what the problem was - I could see the distributor was soaked. I had no tools to deal with it, so we decided to try and get it dry by idling. After an hour, it was no better, but finally a vehicle showed up. A couple from Germany, and he knew what he was doing, but he also did not want to risk taking off the distributor cap, as without the correct driver, we might risk damaging it and be in a worse place. He threw us the rescue we needed, though, and he towed us to the South Gate, where we hoped to find a good set of tools. Alas, no. Perhaps we were going to have to call Maun and request an extraction, potentially not a cheap solution, and also eating the rest of our day up, when a group of soldiers appeared. I hoped they might have tools, and maybe a mechanic, but they had neither. However, they were determined not to leave us stranded. Soon, we had six uniformed men peering in to the engine bay, and eventually one got the cap off. All six were active, now. Using paper towel dry connectors, leads taken off and examined. Rotor dried. One had the air filter open, and was drying out the inside of that. They were even checking the oil. Minutes later, our engine was re-assembled, and it started first time. If it had been appropriate, I would have hugged those soldiers. It was not, so I thanked them profusely instead.

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A Black and White Kingfisher


Grazing Elephant in Moremi
Before we even entered the reserve, we were treated to some beautiful moments.


Bathing Elephant in Moremi


Another Great Giraffe Expression


Red Lechwe Posing in the Beautiful Light


First Steps
A tender moment, as a mother Impala helps her newborn discover walking.


Hippos are Capable of Great Expressions, Too
Hippopotamus at Moremi Game Reserve checks us out.


Bedraggled
An afternoon storm came, and Jo and I managed to find some shelter from the tropical downpour. Even running 2 metres from the car to the shelter made us soaked. Obviously, it is the same for all the animals who get caught out there! This little mouse came in to join us.


Visitors for Breakfast
Zebras came to our campsite at Third Bridge while we were having our morning coffee.


Cheeky Look from a Zebra


Poking his Tongue Out at Us
Giraffe expressions continue to make us laugh, time and time again.


Practice
Adolescent lechwe butt heads in practice for adulthood, when it will mean so much more. For ten minutes or so, we watched three take it in turns to engage with each other, locking horns and pushing and butting, then prancing and leaping to re-engage once again.


Scanning for Prey
An unidentified hawk or falcon, perched and scanning.


Hornbill
There were many hornbills, gliding and swooping, or bouncing along at ground level through long grass. They seemed to like hanging around the tracks we drove, or maybe there are just so many.


Rescue Mission
This little turtle (I think, might be a tortoise, we were quite a way from water) was walking in the rut of the 4wd track. I couldn't leave him there, and felt obliged to move him a metre or two away from the highly dangerous path he had chosen to traverse.

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One more safari drive awaited us, at the Khama Rhino Sanctuary. Again, we camped inside. We did and evening and morning animal search, and besides some more animals we have not seen on this trip (like oryx, and some better sightings of animals like wildebeest), we did encounter some white rhinos. Six rhinos, three couples.

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Wildebeest
They are normally quite shy and flighty, but this one tolerated us getting quite close.


Pair of White Rhinos

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Our final night in Bots, a stop in Gaborone, to visit Chris and Deola from the Tsodilo Hills. It turns out, Wednesday is chicken night, a regular gathering amongst a regular circle that rotates through various homes. The Briers were the host, and we were the special guests for the evening. Cheers!

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Cheers to Chicken Night in Gaborone

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