27 Feb to 6 Mar, 2026 - Recife, Olinda, Fernando de Noronha - (Brazil)
We pinned Recife as the limit of winding north in Brazil, on the mainland any way. I have long wanted to visit Fernando de Noronha, and the majority of flights out there leave from Recife. Our time is not without limit, so we squeezed and streteched the rough outline itinerary around the island visit.
As for Recife, we came with few expectations and no agenda. We had flights to deal with, in and out, so staying close to the airport seemed logical and worked well. However, in the days leading up to our time, I started to read, and realised it would not be without interest, not entirely devoid of things to do. Good dining, and some unique cultural attractions meant we were not twiddling our thumbs.
Churrascaria de Rodízio
Take a seat and order a drink. The passadores weave through the tables with swords of meat. They look inquisitively at you as they pass, and a smile or a nod or a gesture brings them to a stop. They describe what they have as they slice, not that we understand them. In any case, we can work it out. Using tongs we take the slices as they fold off. Be careful to stop him to avoid filling up early; he'll keep carving if you don't intervene. More choices will present, and besides, you can catch more of a favourite when it makes another pass later.
Sirloin steak and other beef cuts feature heavily, while chicken and lamb make occasional appearances. These are not marinated. A bit of salt and perfect cooking are the secrets for the meats to shine. Spicy little sausages come past, and they are winners in my eyes. And while not everything is for us, there are obviously fans amongst the patrons for everything, including the liver and the chicken hearts.
There's a huge buffet, too, with salads and vegetables, soups and stews, seafood and sushi, chips and mash potato and onion rings. You get the idea. So, while meat is the star, those who want a balance can certainly have it.
Unsurprisingly, that is not my style. A single pass of the extras, a tiny taste of a few morsels, and I'm done there. Back to the table and stay alert. Ooh, what does that waiter have?
The Estuary and Recife
Over there is Marco Zero, where Recife was founded. It is from where everything in the area is measured, and it is the heart of the city.
Renovated warehouses filled with shops and restaurants are a feature, to the left. Cultural buildings are visible. At the right is the distinctive Museu Cais do Sertão.
Meanwhile, we are over here, not over there. This photo is taken from a narrow reef that has been strengthened and built up to be Recife's protective breakwater. It is now a sculpture park, and short cheap boat ride from Marco Zero got us here. It features scores of sculptures, bronze and ceramic, by Francisco Brennand.
The sculptures have a few recurring themes, with animals like turtles and pelicans making frequent appearances. Various eggs or egg-like objects are common. There are mythical creatures included. Fertility seems to be a recurring element.
Here is a sentinel, one of the guardians he created, accompanied by a turtle and a bird.
It Was a Hoot
We visited a museum in Recife. In a large room to the back of the museum we encountered a man with a piano accordion and a variety of percussion instruments.
As people peered in, he would beckon and encourage. As he furnished each of us with an instrument, he also gave us our unique rhythm. Then he played and sang. I believe the songs were from Luiz Gonzaga, Locals seemed to know them and sang along with apparent nostalgia.
Looking Out from Central Recife
Behind us there is the breakwater we were on earlier. The Torre de Cristal is the centrepiece of Franciso Brennand sculpture park. It is inspired by a specific cactus flower.
The park was created to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Brazil's discovery. That centrepiece tower is now one of the modern icons for the city.
Glowing
It was Sunday, and the streets of Recife had a party vibe. That is apparently the case every Sunday. Markets and food stalls, bands outside bars, and people dining in the streets to enjoy the music. A guy with paints was circling around, decorating whoever volunteered their face or limbs as a canvas.
Olinda is almost engulfed by the urban sprawl of Recife. However, the heritage it has fought to retain means there is still a distinct shift when you enter the neighbourhood. It felt like being in a bubble, with an invisible film successrully protecting it from the swirling spread from its large neighbour.
Cashew Juice
A tasty and refreshing drink made from the cashew apple, the fruit around the nut.
Another Colonial Gem
Olinda is a stunning town, a World Heritage site famous for its beautifully preserved churches and steep, winding streets lined with vibrant pastel houses. It is a bustling hub for artists and crafts, and a must-do day-trip from Recife.
From Olinda
Olinda is spread across multiple levels, from the seafront to a lovely square on a hill top. This view from that hill shows lower Olinda in the foreground, with its dominant southern neighbour Recife in the background.
From Recife it's a few hundred kilometres to the Islands of Fernando de Noronha. The archipelago holds strategic importance for Brazil, as an outlook post for the mainland well in to the Atlantic. We came for the beaches.
Voted One of the World's Most Beautiful
Baía do Sancho often ranks in the list of the World's Most Beautiful Beaches.
I don't 100% agree. However, I cannot deny it is definitely gorgeous. Difficult access adds to the charm, with a pair of ladders in a fissure of rock the only practical way from the clifftop to the sand. Access to the ladders is restricted, with ascent or descent only allowed in alternating hours.
The Two Brothers
Sally Lightfoot
Named for their agility, the quirky crabs provided some entertainment while we drank a beer awaiting sunset.
Morro do Pico
This distinct peak is the highest point in the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha. A memorable sunset silhouette.
We Might Remember this as Shark Beach
Praia do Leão, or Lion Beach. Named for the rock that resembles a reclining sea lion.
We swam here, cautiously, because of very strong current. Shore was always close, and we ensured we stayed where our feet could touch the sandy bottom. The water temperature was perfect, and it was a lovely reward after having walked 30 minutes or so from the bus stop without shade.
When a couple who were sunning on the sand came to the waters edge to alert us to a shark, the decision was effectively made for us to leave the water. Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, we did not see the shark. They described it as "baby", and it can't have been too big as it allegedly swam between us and the dry sand.
Later discussions revealed, though, that big or small, one must take the threat seriously. The next major beach around is Baía do Sueste (Southeast Bay), and it was closed to water activities after a couple of serious shark attacks.
Fernando de Noronha is actually rated, overall, as supporting very healthy shark populations.
Frigate Bird
I love the almost pre-historic silhouette that the frigate bird creates. I still remember the first time we saw them, and the impact they had on me many years ago. Seeing them again at Fernando de Noronha gave me a wonderful flashback.
Our Aluminium Frigatebird
With Morro do Pico behind, I waited at the end of the runway, flightradar open on my phone. Our plane arriving to pick us up.
Flight is the only practical way for visitors to come to the archipelago, about an hour from Recife.
Not only visitors, almost everything on the island arrives by air. This is just the start of what makes visiting expensive. There is a fairly steep daily charge, an environmental protection tax. There is a separate hefty national park fee payable to visit most of the beaches or any of the marine areas.
Yes, it was certainly worth it, but we were quite conscious of how much this little side trip was costing.
