Jaguar

10 to 14 Mar, 2026 - Pocone, Pantanal - (Brazil)



From Bonito, we flew (via Sao Paulo) to Cuiaba, gateway to the northern Pantanal. No delay, we headed straight out from the airport to get in to the wetlands as effeciently as possible. Last stop in Brazil, and keen for a highlight to finish on.

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Sunrise on Rio Cuiaba
Travelling on the Cuiaba river in a small speed boat, a thin gentle haze hovering above the water to provide an accent for the rising sun.


A Hawk with Some Lunch
We saw this beautiful bird snatch that large fish from just below the water surface. It landed on the other side of the river, and proceeded to feast straight away, proudly showing us the catch.


Yellow Anaconda
Less than 15 minutes after our arrival, one of the workers burst in. He was running to get us, not wanting us to miss the beautiful snake passing through the yard.

The biggest surprise was the unconcerned behaviour of the chickens.


Portrait of a Yellow Anaconda
It's amazing to see the vibrant golden scales so close. Eyes and nostrils high on the head enable them to disappear in the water, with only these vital organs above the surface.


Snake Observation
I saw a description of anacondas, calling them polite predators. With few predators, they are considered apex. The polite label is earned because they generally don't engage with anything they won't eat, conserving energy and effort for true prey only, or only if they feel threatened.


Family of Capybara
They darted back and forth along the water's edge. They seemed a little unsettled by us on the boat, even though the engine was off.


Largest Rodent in the World
Capybara, or in Portuguese, capivara.

The ears and eyes and nose are all high on the head, so like the anaconda, they can remain almost completely submerged.


A Wonderful Sighting
We were warned. This was not a good time of year for spotting jaguar. In fact, probably the worst.

With our expectations set suitably low, we nonetheless decided that it was worth a punt. They are still around, just more elusive.

Our accommodation was a fair way along the river from the true border of the wildlife protection reserve. Even though technically not in the reserve, a wide perimeter around the reserve seems to be respected by locals and treated somewhat the same. The land might be private and (sparsely) populated, there are some farming activities, but it makes the transition from rural to nature quite gradual, like a soft border.

We set off early in the boat, with the schedule having us on the water for around 7 hours. Within the first hour, and possibly within 5 minutes of entering the reserve, there was this beautiful sight.

Swimming.

A jaguar.

Swimming.

I didn't know they swam.

We were looking in the trees, and in the undergrowth along the banks. We weren't looking in the water.

Swimming.

A jaguar.


Off She Goes
It wasn't a very long sighting, but it was special. An unforgettable end-of-trip highlight.


Talking of Nostrils and Eyes
A caiman keeps watch on us, ready to dive and disappear if he perceives us to be a threat.


Perched Kingfisher
Sitting above the river, scanning.

Finding the kingfishers is not a hard task. The blue stands out against the tree foliage, and they don't mind sitting on bare branches. They are brave birds, too, not too quick to take flight as we edge close to them for a picture.

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Clear Waters of Matto Grasso Sul - Aquariums; Waterfalls; Swimming; Cave Lakes; Snorkelling

6 to 10 Mar, 2026 - Campo Grande, Bonito - (Brazil)



The Pantanal is huge. About the size of Great Britain, according to my quick Google check. It is a floodplain, the world's largest wetland, and has an extraordinarily high level of biodiversity. So, with only a week or so in the area, we are taking home a taster, at best. Our desire to do other things in the area was another imposition that further constrained our time.

Our first port of call was where we flew in, at Campo Grande, just on the edge of the Pantanal, really. Given a lot more time, we may have made some sort of venture in from this southern city. Instead, we were given an introduction by a visit to the Bioparque Aquarium.

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Bioparque Pantanal
In the world's largest freshwater aquarium. The aquarium is part of a bigger museum, but we were primarily here for the aquatic creatures. Amazingly, the visit is free, but you should book in advance as there is a limit. It was not busy when we were there, so our lack of preparedness did not impact.

The focus is on Brazilian freshwater fish, but they had some tanks with samples of species from many other corners of the globe.


Gazing
Bioparque Pantanal, admiring the fish interactions.


Dangerous Animals are a Hit Everyone
Watching caiman from below water level was fascinating. Sitting was aided by using one or two of the provided cushions. Having the glass so close to floor level was fantastic for making the experience accessible for kids, and this window seemed to have them enthralled for longer than other spots.

The caimans would alternate, floating at the top with just eyes and nostrils showing, and then for no reason, they would sink to the bottom where they would sit, equally as motionless. If two or more bumped in to each other, they would just tolerate it, maybe clawing a bit at the other to make some space, but just generally coping with another caiman on their head or tail.

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A last minute decision was to get ourselves a rental car for the drive to Bonito. Amazingly, I only accumulated one speeding infringement on this journey. It was a long and not-too-interesting journey and there were many cameras. Ideal conditions for catching travellers who just want to get to the next stop.

While not part of Pantanal directly, Bonito is a source of a lot of the water that goes down there. And water is at the centre of many activities in the area. Pure, crystal clear, warm, and inviting. I'm surprised I didn't end up looking like a prune by the time we flew to the northern Pantanal.

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Boca da Onça
At over 150 metres, this cascade is certainly the tallest waterfall in this region of Brazil. This was our first stop at Boca da Onça.

Every now and then, the air would fill with squawks. Numerous birds would emerge from the jungle and circle, maybe 3 or 4 times, near the upper areas of the falls, before landing in rocky crevices or returning to the trees. The scarlet reds or blues of macaws were easy to pick out, while the darker coloured birds remained largely unidentified. Combined with the filtered sunlight and the noisy birds, this was a delightful first stop on our day trip.

At the back of my mind, though, we have to walk back up. We started at the top of those falls!


First Waterfall, First Swim of the Day
I could not say no to a dip in the natural pool.


Emerging
At this waterfall, we could swim in the cave behind the falls. Even accessing the pool at the base of the falls was a micro-adventure, requiring a swim through a tunnel.


A Scenic Stop
Not all the waterfalls we visited are swimable. Perhaps just as well. I was tiring a bit from the process.

So, this way-point might be labelled as an "admire the pretty waterfall" stop.


Giant Red-winged Grasshopper
One of the largest species of grasshopper in the world.


A Perfect Day for Waterfalls
There was some cloud cover, giving us some protection from sun burn, but enough blue for great photos.

At times like this, I pine for the old SLR. With film, I think the joy of setting up and capturing a scene like this would have been fulfilling, ensuing the light, angle, settings, and interference factors are low, long before pressing the button and using one precious frame.


Swimming Stop Number Five
Or maybe it was number six. The water and air temperatures were ideal, with neither entry nor exit proceedings leaving one feeling cold. But the ritual of footwear and shirts and drying was becoming tedious.

Maybe I'm a social influencer at heart. I honestly think this last swim was only so we could get the picture.


Near the Infinity Edge
The calm, mirror reflection disguises the fact there is a waterfall behind us. A natural infinity edged pool This location is called Janela para o Céu, the Window to the Sky.

The framing of the view out is just spot-on. The canyon below, the mountains in the distance, and the jungle filling all the space between. I was looking forward to this spot, and our opportunity to "dance on the water".


Blue Lake Cave, near Bonito
It's a combination of clear water, natural minerals, and sunlight refraction.


Aquário Natural
Snorkelling in the natural aquarium near Bonito.

Known for exceptional visibility and large numbers of colourful fish. To help preserve the balance, visitors are asked not to be wearing sunscreen or insect repellent before they swim.


Aquário Natural
From down here, you cannot tell that it was raining quite heavily.

We weren't really swimming. It was more of a float. We were encouraged to not kick, not splash, not stand, just using our hands for some minor propulsion. The entire trip consisted of a walk through the forest, then 10 or 15 minutes in a natural pool to get accustomed to the activity. Not so much the snorkelling, but resisting the urge to put your feet down and stand.

From the pool, the float downstream took about an hour. I believe it was almost a kilometre.

Mainly fish, and dominated by three or four types. We were always excited to see the odd stand-out differing species, and would try and catch each other's gaze. In hand gestures we try to enquire of each other while pointing, "did you see that little red one?"

We saw a water snake, too, which was really cool. About 60 or 70 cm long, near the bottom, entirely unbothered by us floating by. It seemed to be searching through the river grasses, perhaps looking for a frog for lunch.

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A Wonderful Pernambuco Trio - Recife, Olinda, and Fernando de Noronha

27 Feb to 6 Mar, 2026 - Recife, Olinda, Fernando de Noronha - (Brazil)



We pinned Recife as the limit of winding north in Brazil, on the mainland any way. I have long wanted to visit Fernando de Noronha, and the majority of flights out there leave from Recife. Our time is not without limit, so we squeezed and streteched the rough outline itinerary around the island visit.

As for Recife, we came with few expectations and no agenda. We had flights to deal with, in and out, so staying close to the airport seemed logical and worked well. However, in the days leading up to our time, I started to read, and realised it would not be without interest, not entirely devoid of things to do. Good dining, and some unique cultural attractions meant we were not twiddling our thumbs.

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Churrascaria de Rodízio
Take a seat and order a drink. The passadores weave through the tables with swords of meat. They look inquisitively at you as they pass, and a smile or a nod or a gesture brings them to a stop. They describe what they have as they slice, not that we understand them. In any case, we can work it out. Using tongs we take the slices as they fold off. Be careful to stop him to avoid filling up early; he'll keep carving if you don't intervene. More choices will present, and besides, you can catch more of a favourite when it makes another pass later.

Sirloin steak and other beef cuts feature heavily, while chicken and lamb make occasional appearances. These are not marinated. A bit of salt and perfect cooking are the secrets for the meats to shine. Spicy little sausages come past, and they are winners in my eyes. And while not everything is for us, there are obviously fans amongst the patrons for everything, including the liver and the chicken hearts.

There's a huge buffet, too, with salads and vegetables, soups and stews, seafood and sushi, chips and mash potato and onion rings. You get the idea. So, while meat is the star, those who want a balance can certainly have it.

Unsurprisingly, that is not my style. A single pass of the extras, a tiny taste of a few morsels, and I'm done there. Back to the table and stay alert. Ooh, what does that waiter have?


The Estuary and Recife
Over there is Marco Zero, where Recife was founded. It is from where everything in the area is measured, and it is the heart of the city.

Renovated warehouses filled with shops and restaurants are a feature, to the left. Cultural buildings are visible. At the right is the distinctive Museu Cais do Sertão.

Meanwhile, we are over here, not over there. This photo is taken from a narrow reef that has been strengthened and built up to be Recife's protective breakwater. It is now a sculpture park, and short cheap boat ride from Marco Zero got us here. It features scores of sculptures, bronze and ceramic, by Francisco Brennand.

The sculptures have a few recurring themes, with animals like turtles and pelicans making frequent appearances. Various eggs or egg-like objects are common. There are mythical creatures included. Fertility seems to be a recurring element.

Here is a sentinel, one of the guardians he created, accompanied by a turtle and a bird.


It Was a Hoot
We visited a museum in Recife. In a large room to the back of the museum we encountered a man with a piano accordion and a variety of percussion instruments.

As people peered in, he would beckon and encourage. As he furnished each of us with an instrument, he also gave us our unique rhythm. Then he played and sang. I believe the songs were from Luiz Gonzaga, Locals seemed to know them and sang along with apparent nostalgia.


Looking Out from Central Recife
Behind us there is the breakwater we were on earlier. The Torre de Cristal is the centrepiece of Franciso Brennand sculpture park. It is inspired by a specific cactus flower.

The park was created to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Brazil's discovery. That centrepiece tower is now one of the modern icons for the city.


Glowing
It was Sunday, and the streets of Recife had a party vibe. That is apparently the case every Sunday. Markets and food stalls, bands outside bars, and people dining in the streets to enjoy the music. A guy with paints was circling around, decorating whoever volunteered their face or limbs as a canvas.

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Olinda is almost engulfed by the urban sprawl of Recife. However, the heritage it has fought to retain means there is still a distinct shift when you enter the neighbourhood. It felt like being in a bubble, with an invisible film successrully protecting it from the swirling spread from its large neighbour.

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Cashew Juice
A tasty and refreshing drink made from the cashew apple, the fruit around the nut.


Another Colonial Gem
Olinda is a stunning town, a World Heritage site famous for its beautifully preserved churches and steep, winding streets lined with vibrant pastel houses. It is a bustling hub for artists and crafts, and a must-do day-trip from Recife.


From Olinda
Olinda is spread across multiple levels, from the seafront to a lovely square on a hill top. This view from that hill shows lower Olinda in the foreground, with its dominant southern neighbour Recife in the background.

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From Recife it's a few hundred kilometres to the Islands of Fernando de Noronha. The archipelago holds strategic importance for Brazil, as an outlook post for the mainland well in to the Atlantic. We came for the beaches.

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Voted One of the World's Most Beautiful
Baía do Sancho often ranks in the list of the World's Most Beautiful Beaches.

I don't 100% agree. However, I cannot deny it is definitely gorgeous. Difficult access adds to the charm, with a pair of ladders in a fissure of rock the only practical way from the clifftop to the sand. Access to the ladders is restricted, with ascent or descent only allowed in alternating hours.


The Two Brothers


Sally Lightfoot
Named for their agility, the quirky crabs provided some entertainment while we drank a beer awaiting sunset.


Morro do Pico
This distinct peak is the highest point in the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha. A memorable sunset silhouette.


We Might Remember this as Shark Beach
Praia do Leão, or Lion Beach. Named for the rock that resembles a reclining sea lion.

We swam here, cautiously, because of very strong current. Shore was always close, and we ensured we stayed where our feet could touch the sandy bottom. The water temperature was perfect, and it was a lovely reward after having walked 30 minutes or so from the bus stop without shade.

When a couple who were sunning on the sand came to the waters edge to alert us to a shark, the decision was effectively made for us to leave the water. Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, we did not see the shark. They described it as "baby", and it can't have been too big as it allegedly swam between us and the dry sand.

Later discussions revealed, though, that big or small, one must take the threat seriously. The next major beach around is Baía do Sueste (Southeast Bay), and it was closed to water activities after a couple of serious shark attacks.

Fernando de Noronha is actually rated, overall, as supporting very healthy shark populations.


Frigate Bird
I love the almost pre-historic silhouette that the frigate bird creates. I still remember the first time we saw them, and the impact they had on me many years ago. Seeing them again at Fernando de Noronha gave me a wonderful flashback.


Our Aluminium Frigatebird
With Morro do Pico behind, I waited at the end of the runway, flightradar open on my phone. Our plane arriving to pick us up.

Flight is the only practical way for visitors to come to the archipelago, about an hour from Recife.

Not only visitors, almost everything on the island arrives by air. This is just the start of what makes visiting expensive. There is a fairly steep daily charge, an environmental protection tax. There is a separate hefty national park fee payable to visit most of the beaches or any of the marine areas.

Yes, it was certainly worth it, but we were quite conscious of how much this little side trip was costing.

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Capital da Alegria - Salvador

23 to 26 Feb, 2026 - Salvador - (Brazil)



Brazil's "Capital of Happness". Salvador has a unique identity, even within Brazil. It is a city of rhythm and colour. It is vibrant and, at the same time, relaxed. It has a legendery spirit, forged out of Afro-Brazilian roots. It is uplifting. It is spiritual.

Google returned the following about Bahia. "Sem pressa, olha para o céu, fala com Deus, você tá na Bahia". A local saying that translates to "No rush, look at the sky, talk to God, you're in Bahia".
Local specialities were consumed, and on our balcony we were entertained by drummers in the streets. We drank caiparinhas in praças, and beers with sea views. Museums educated us. Churches encouraged soulful contemplation. We got happily lost in a labrynth of lanes lined with pastel, eventually stumbling back out in to familiar largos with distinctive grand edifices from bygone eras.

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The Curves of Bahia
Coming in to Salvador.


Our First Salvador Meal, Moqueca
Moqueca is a local seafood stew. A perfect gastronomical fusion of Indigenous, African, and Portuguese influences.

Options are prawns and seafood, fish, or a mixed version, with veggies, spices and coconut milk. Perhaps the secret is the Dende palm oil, described as bringing a nutty flavour?

Or maybe the secret is not in the ingredients. Perhaps if we are ever going to authentically reproduce it we might need to get a genuine Salvador hand made clay pot.


The Belly Button of Bahia
Forte de São Marcelo, with a catchy little nickname from it's unusual donut shape.


No, Jo, it will Never Fit
Yes, I do realise we could finally fit all our spices in.

An apothecary cabinet in Museu da Misericórdia, the Muesum of Mercy.


Natural Ventilation
Once upon a time, staying cool was more about clever design than mechanics. It's a bonus that the arches make fantastic frames for the spectacular views.


Elevador Lacerda Behind Me
The Art Deco appearance was a result of 1930s renovations. The concept and underlying structure date back another 60 or 70 years before that, to the latter 19th century, when it was opened as the world's first public elevator.


Unmistakable Salvador
The lighthouse sits inside an old fort, Santo Antônio da Barra. The black and white stripes alone seem to be what makes this so iconic for Salvador. A fantastic nautical museum is now housed in the fort itself, with a good sized (read "not too much") amount of items on display.


Mmmm, Blue Drinks
To be honest, I don't remember what the drinks were marketed as. It's not the drinks we need to remember. The meals were great, simple meals that felt more like they came from a home kitchen, but it's not those either.

The photo is here for us to remember the trouble we had finding somewhere to enjoy the sunset after scurrying through an increasingly emptying market. Feeling dodgier at every turn, we were convinced there must be somewhere on the seaward side to sit and drink and eat.

And almost everything was closed. Almost. One stalwart little eatery right on the water's edge, complete with views of the sunset and islands. Drinks, food, and our fingers on the ferry pulse of Salvador. That is what we want to remember.


Largo do Pelourinho
We stayed right on this square, which actually is more of a triangle. It's beautiful, at many times noisily filled with drummers, but an early start gets some photos before the tourists pile in.

While it is one of the jewels of Salvador for its wonderful architecture, the somber fact is there in the name. Pelourinho means pillory, or whipping post. This was once the place of public punishment.


A Point on a Triangular Square
A distinctive Afro-Brazilian church on the square. A strong symbol for the community, it was built by slaves for themselves, but not under instruction. They chose to build this, during their small amounts of free time, taking nearly a century to complete.


Continuing North
More buildings to admire as we wandered the streets of Salvador.


Rua Direita de Santo Antônio
Santo Antônio Além do Carmo is a district of particular note, feeling less cluttered with tourists. Although there are numerous art studios and galleries, as well as bars and restaurants, the general vibe was more down to earth. It felt like the neighbourhood locals head to. Built on a winding ridge heading north of the centre, most of the buildings on the west would enjoy amazing sea views, with incredible sunsets I'm sure.

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