30 May to 14 Jun, 2026 - Padua, Cittadella, Zurich, Campione d'Italia, Lecco, Bologna - (Italy, Switzerland)
The anchor for our trip was catching up with our most frequent travel catch up frends. A week in Padua, with drinks, food, stories, and so many laughs.
Again, we Meet
It's becoming too hard to count. Since we first met Andrea and Hermann in Ecuador, December 1996, we have arranged to cross paths multiple times in Germany, many times in Italy, and once in Croatia. A quick figuring has it at around 10.
This meeting was in Padua. We had originally thought of France, but Andrea was keen to visit the Bienalle Venezia, so the destination was modified. This really suited us, as after the massive drive we did to finish our most recent giro, 14 something hours in one day, cutting the distance was super appreciated.
Photo from night one. We have spent long days on the road coming from our respective homes. Re-aquaint ourselves over a glass of wine. @Andrea, @Hermann, the keys are on the table. ;)
Outside the Basilica of St. Anthony
Our first full day in Padua, and St Anthony was high on the to do list.
From the Magnolia Cloister
The tree is a large magnolia, lending its name to the cloister where the photo is taken from. The domes and slender towers are characteristic of St. Anthony, which blends Romanesque, Gothic, Byzantine, and Moorish influences.
6th Century Shrine
Accessed from the Abbey of Santa Giustina, this shrine was built in an early Christian cemetery, and would have been just outside the walls of early Padua. Even when built, it was an adjunct to the main basilica. However, little of that remains after wars, earthquakes, and ultimately its 16th century makeover. The shrine was preserved and is the only standing piece of the original ancient complex.
Palazzo della Ragione, from Piazza delle Erbe
We walked town; visited a few churches; photographed some sights. We drank some coffees; ate seafood in the market; had aperetivi under a colonnade. It was a big wonderful day, and it had an unfortunate story to sour it at the end. Perhaps a story to share in person, not delve in to here. It was not a friendship strain, something that affected us as a group. It took a few days for us to move on from it.
Cittadella North Gate
The five of us on a day trip to nearby Cittadella. Stefan, son of Andrea and Hermann, joined us.
From the Cittadella Walls
The reason for our visit was the (near) complete walls. Once we had ascended to the top, we were able to circuit the entire town. Incredibly high at some points - although they look uniform the entire way, they actually vary in height due to the undulations of the land.
And Venice, of Course
The meeting location had been altered to allow visits to nearby Venice for the Bienalle.
Monte Venda Military Base
Hidden in the Euganei Hills is a now abandoned NATO air force bunker. Operating from the mid 1950's until 1998, it was entrusted with the task of monitoring airspace for northern Italy, and the entire Adriatic.
Stop. Approaching the Access will Provoke Armed Intervention
In theory, access is prohibited. You may not believe me, but our entry was in fact entirely accidental. We were following paths and roads that encircled the fence, replete with warning signs, but at some point found ourselves inside the complex. We did not jump a fence, or scramble through a hole. We just walked and chatted. When we eventually got down to the main gate, we found ourselves in an awkward position. We were inside, and the fencing was quite secure in this part. We found a weakness in the chainlinks nearby, and we had to scramble through to get out.
Monastero degli Olivetani, Colli Euganei
Sometime in the 12th century, a monastery was established on this site, later expanded in the 14th century. In the 18th century, the Venetians suppressed the order, leading to the buildings being abandoned and falling to ruin.
A Resident in the Ruins
A cricket, on a stalk of grass. There were many around. One could be located on almost every surface or rock in the abandoned monastery.
Decent Pizzas
As often occurs in Italy, uncut pizzas, from a pizzeria without seating. Leading to some creative dining in a less-than-perfect setting. The pizzas were so good, though, they eclipsed any criticisms of the dinner experience.
The day we left Padua and drove to Zurich was not supposed to be so big. Road works, congestion, and closed tunnels. Combined, they added nearly 3 hours to our expected drive time. Heather and Steve were accommodating, and got on the train to meet us where we were based, just out of Zurich. The next day, more relaxed, we explored the sites of Zurich, ate gelato, drank some beer, and dipped bread in cheese. For our final day, the four us went chocolating.
Us, Zurich
Gorgeous Weather in Zurich
The Fondue Crew Enjoying Fondue
We went to Zurich to meet with Australian friends, Steven and Heather. Couple to couple friends only for about 30-something years. Jo and Heather, though, were class mates, so their friendship goes back 40-something years. Best not to do too much maths.
We monikered our little group the Fondue Crew, and drove to Zurich to catch them. While a lovely city to visit, Zurich is not particularly loaded with must-do sights. This was perfect, and meant we did not feel guilty when we stopped to just sit, talk, eat, drink. Of course, fondue had to be consumed at least once.
The Chocolate Fountain
A two storey centrepiece at the Lindt Chocolate factory. Yes, it really is chocolate running down the sculpture, although one can probably assume the quality is quite basic. We did a tour which surprisingly worthwhile, and did include generous samples of various chocolates in various states.
Lindor Love
Awww. Post tour in the Lindt Factory Outlet Shop. No bargains, really, and I certainly didn't feel I needed to buy after leaving the tour with our pockets loaded with samples.
A Splotch of Italy Within Switzerland
On the shore of Lake Lugano, Campione d'Italia is entirely surrounded by Switzerland. Over a millennia, the territory was donated to the Archbishop of Milan, and it has remained politically connected ever since, although not physically.
Unlike many other European geographical oddities, their complications were not instantly alleviated with the creation of the EU, since their biggest trading happens with Switzerland who remain a non-member. It continues to predominantly use Swiss Francs, Swiss phone networks and electricity, although police and elected officials are Italian.
The early twentieth century saw the building of the casino, and due to the odd administrative anomaly of Campione, this facility has many intriguing stories, particularly those dating from the war periods.
With a few days to fill in, and no diversion necessary, we took Peter up on his offer to drop in on him in Lecco.
Cheers to Peter
We met Peter some years ago, online, as we were part of a group studying Italian "licence" vocabulary. Learning parts of the car; first aid concepts; words about directions and carriageways; whatever we could to get ourselves across the line in the exam.
Eventually, we met him in person, when we were overlapping in Melbourne. Finally, though, this was the opportunity to accept his hospitality, the invitation extended 4 years ago. He cooked us some brilliant meals, served us a few fantastic wines, and ensured we had a wonderful time in the Lecco area.
View Over the Lecco Arm of Lake Como
From the trail high above, we look over one branch of the Lake Como, over to Valmadrera and Malgrate, with the Briantei Lakes beyond them. An easy walk up from the parking lot with spectacular vistas.
Belvedere Parco Valentino
Ultimately, we reached the footbridge, jutting out from the cliff. The weather had not yet closed in, although soon after we left to walk back down, we were enveloped in a mist with its accompanying light drizzle. No worries about that, as it had stayed away just long enough to really appreciate the viewpoint and its magnificent panorama.
Bologna to round up our northern circuit.
Late Afternoon
We got to the winery a bit earlier, as our ride was involved in organising for the event. It's a bit out of Bologna, maybe 40 minutes from memory, in a super picturesque location. Waiting for others to arrive, we wandered the grounds and chatted with staff and other guests as they arrived.
Selfie in Front of the Vines
With the Couple
"Groom" and "Bride", recently married Giovanni and Chrysi. Gio is from Bologna, but I work with him in Australia. Although officially married in Melbourne, they chose to have two follow-up events so family and friends could celebrate with them. The first was in Ethiopia, where Chrysi is from. We felt honoured to be included in the second gathering.
Pre-dinner Winery Tour
Al di Là del Fiume - Beyond the River. They do not use oak for ageing, generally tending to the terracotta amphorae or stainless steel tanks. The steel tanks seemed more industrial and clinical, sterile and scientific. Anzi (on the other hand), the terracotta felt so earthy and organic, warm and ancient, full of rustic romance.
Dining on the Terrace
As the sun set, the lights came on. We drank toasts to the couple, and ate beautiful local fare. I gave a mezzo mezzo speech, interspersing English with mediocre Italian. A wonderful celebration.
Portico di San Luca
Nearly 4 kilometres long, the Portico of San Luca runs from the city of Bologna up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, high on a nearby hill. It is the longest continuous portico in the world, with (depending on how you count) 666 arches.
Re-connecting the Following Day
Some of the dinner guests from the previous night. Downtown Bologna for good Bolognese specialties.
