Current Travels

Showing posts with label Guatemala. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Guatemala. Show all posts

“We Come In Peace”

8 to 13 Jun, 2009 - Guatemala City, Semuc Champey, and Tikal



Ambassadors Of Peace. It is now official, and we have certificates to prove it. I mentioned in an earlier blog entry how we had wanted to visit the National Palace of Culture but couldn't due to the visit by the president (prime minister?) of Taiwan. We had written it off, but after our bus debacle, we found ourselves back in Guatemala City, and doing a tour of said palace.


Reception Hall
Reception Hall
The beautiful reception hall of the Palacio Nacional de la Cultura, Guatemala City. The chandelier allegedly weighs in at two tonnes!



One of the things that we really wanted to catch was a daily ceremony at the monument for peace, which is in one of the courtyards of the palace. This short and simple ceremony involves a military guard who takes yesterday's rose off the monument and replaces it with a fresh one. Not wanting to risk missing it, we asked a couple of people about it. Before we really knew it, Jo was asked if she would like the honour of performing the ceremony. She naturally accepted, and some minutes later was humbly carrying in a tray with a fresh rose. There was a small group of onlookers, from the general public, and we were both asked if we would like to say a few words. It was an extremely moving experience.


Jo Brings In The New Rose
Jo Brings In The New Rose
Jo carries in a tray with a fresh rose, to be placed on the Peace Monument in Guatemala City. It was an honour for us to be chosen to perform this ceremony. It is usually performed by a guard, and sometimes by important visitors (e.g. the Dalai Lama, or visiting Heads of State), so Jo is now in some very good company. We also received certificates declaring that we are Ambassadors of Peace in Guatemala.


Jo Places A Fresh Rose
Jo Places A Fresh Rose
A fresh rose is placed on the Peace Monument in The Palacio Nacional de la Cultura, Guatemala City.



OK, so I've recently been talking about buses and pickups. In today's blog we'll cover minibuses and pickups. Why? Because our minibus broke down and we transferred to a truck! :D OK, so minibuses don't vary from chicken buses by a lot. They are just as slow in town, and just as fast on the road. The significant difference is that you NEVER have much room. Even if they are only half full, you still have your knees around your ears. Even more-so if you have to sit on the folding seat, and then are expected to squeeze four on to the three seats. The assistant still has similar functions, but he spends more time hanging precariously out of the open door, and sometimes that's the only space left for him. Trucks are a new domain. Adult male dominated, they are usually taking workmen to or from town, and may make room for others, but that is just bonus income for the driver. They are generally not so crowded – most men just sit up on the sides, while others sprawl out on the floor. These trucks are about the slowest way to get from A to B.

Yes, our minibus died. Upon hearing awful sounds from the wheel, we pulled over. Twenty minutes later, there was a mess. The wheel mount was completely disassembled, with tools and parts spread all around the poor driver, who couldn't undo a few nuts and bolts due to poor tools. A truck appeared, going our way, so we bailed on the poor guy, and thanked him, while he needlessly apologised. Jo got offered a seat in the front of the truck, while I was expected to find my own space in the rear. I must say, I was rather surprised that Jo was so comfortable with hopping in to a truck with over 30 men. She must have been OK with it due to my being there to keep an eye on the situation.


First Class Travel
First Class Travel
Well, only class travel. A few stay in the truck, the rest ride on the walls. With transport, sometimes beggars can't be choosers, but they just have to make the best with what comes along.


Good Friends
Good Friends
Good friends, or at least we hope so. If you can't find something comfortable to sleep on, find someone comfortable.


Scenery En-Route
Scenery En-Route
Taken while riding on a truck to Lanquín.



Semuc Champey is a series of beautiful pools formed in limestone, connected by little waterfalls. Most are swimmable, and all are picturesque. There were lots of little fish that enjoyed our company, or at least enjoyed us. They swam around, darting in to bite at the hairs on my arms, legs, and chest. They even took little nips at Jo (who is not hairy, I should point out). I think they were eating flecks of dead skin, sort of like a natural fish exfoliation.


Swimming At Semuc Champey
Swimming At Semuc Champey
Swimming in one of the numerous turquoise pools at Semuc Champey.


Semuc Champey, From The Mirador
Semuc Champey, From The Mirador
This is the postcard angle. It took about 15 to 20 minutes to climb from the pools to this breathtaking viewpoint.



Fish were not the only wildlife encounter. A long green snake caused quite a stir and became the centre of attention for a while.


Snake, Posing
Snake, Posing
OK, the debate is raging. We were told on site that this was a poisonous snake, either a viper or a vine snake. Later, someone who seems to know a lot about snakes identified this as a parrot snake, which he said was not venomous, but was “all show”. He seemed to be the most knowledgeable, so we'll stick with that for the moment. This beautiful creature was certainly quite the showman, and quite a long beast, too, approaching two metres in length. He stuck his head up and remained in a strike pose, for a few minutes, then quickly shimmied somewhere else, where he would go back in to his defensive (or offensive) posture. Then down again, under some branches, and his head would just pop out from somewhere unexpected. This he managed to keep up for about 15 minutes. All the while, we kept a healthy distance, especially when we saw just how quickly he was capable of moving when he wanted to.



After a horribly long trip of multiple buses, we arrive in Flores, in the north of Guatemala. This is the base for trips to the magnificent Mayan ruins of Tikal.


Jo, Dwarfed
Jo, Dwarfed
Some of the imposing structures at Tikal.


Watch That First Step, It's A Doozy!
Watch That First Step, It's A Doozy!
They're steep, and they're hard. Steps up to the top of one of the Mayan temples in Tikal. You really don't want to miss your footing!


Lazy
Lazy
This black howler monkey came down to check us out. The ruins of Tikal are still in thick jungle, with very little vegetation cleared. The wildlife around the temples was a highlight.


A Picturesque Mayan Temple
A Picturesque Mayan Temple
One of the outer temples of Tikal.


Temple I
Temple I
Relaxing in the Great Plaza of Tikal.


Boom!

4 to 8 Jun, 2009 – Quetzaltenango (Xela) and surrounding sights



We finally got to Xela, and our hotel. A number of buses, and a desperate taxi ride. I had a mild case of diarrhea, and was glad to be close to a bathroom with no need to move. It turned out to be not so mild, and by morning I knew it. Ten or twelve visits to the bathroom during the night, but the most worrying symptom (sorry everyone) was that I was crapping blood. OK, that's the most graphic this is going to get. I started antibiotics and prescribed myself a day of rest. Jo turned professions for the day and became my nurse, running out to buy me suitable food stuffs, running around making me drinks of rehydration salts, and helping me to stay as comfortable as possible. Those antibiotics worked a treat, and 24 hours later, we were out sight-seeing again! Yay for pharmaceuticals!

Not far north of Xela, but a minibus, chicken bus, and pickup ride away, was the village or San Andrés Xecul. A pretty setting with some nice views down the valley, but our reason for coming was the, umm, slightly outrageous facade on the church. Why try and describe it when we have photos!


Interesting Symbology
Interesting Symbology
Again, probably some Mayan influences, but certainly there are some interesting symbols (not to mention colours) in use on the facade of this church of San Andrés, near Xela.


Striking Colours
Striking Colours
Hmm, really stands out, doesn't it!



Leaving San Andrés, we hopped in the bus. Like most local buses, it sat for a long time, engine running, while a trickle of people got on board and slowly filled it. Every two or three minutes, the driver would get on board, blast the horn a few times, and climb off again. After 10 or 15 minutes, when the driver had not been back on board for a while, I got out of my seat, and went to the front of the bus, and blew the airhorn a few times. I didn't look at anyone, but just returned to my seat. Jo assures me that most people on the bus were laughing or smiling at my joke.

As we left town, the assistant came down. Conductor is a bit of an exaggerated description for the guy who squeezes through the crowded buses to collect fares, as there are no tickets or receipts. He doesn't wear a uniform, or identification, he's just a bloke who walks down the aisle asking for money from everyone, and everyone obliges. He has other tasks. These include hanging out of the bus door as it races through intersections, shouting the destination, and waving or whistling at every potential passenger, enticing them to consider this particular bus. He also patrols the aisles to ensure that every seat has a minimum of 3 adults squeezed on to it. One important job is trying to hang on to the roof while tying down large bags of fruits and vegetables, and our packs which are almost always thrown up there, as the bus drives out of the terminal and lurches violently through chaotic streets as it heads out. Anyway, enough about who he was and his function, he came to us and asked where we were heading. We told him and he told us that it would be two Quetzals each, which is something like 35 Aussie cents. A lady across the aisle, (beautiful in her indigenous outfit, btw), queried him. Why was he overcharging us? OK, so he wasn't – she thought we were going to a closer town – but it was so thrilling to have a tiny little reminder how people really do look out for and look after visitors. I thanked her, and she smiled.

Our destination was Salcajá.


The First Christian Church In Central America
The First Church In Central America
I don't really know if that is true, as it is an odd place for the first church, not being in the first population centres. Oh well, let's go with it. It is certainly amongst the first, being dated from 1524! Iglesia de San Jacinto, in Salcajá. Just a pity it was not open for viewing.



In Zunil, yet another nearby village, we visited San Simón. If you have been reading this blog, you may remember my earlier description of the smoking, drinking, sort-of deity known as Maximón. San Simón is Maximón, again, but with slight regional variations.


San Simón - A.K.A Maximón
San Simón - A.K.A Maximón
See our description of Maximón against another photo of a different Maximón. This one was quite the cowboy, and didn't seem to smoke as much, but was tilted back by worshippers who would then pour alcohol into his open mouth (which would then empty straight in to one of the bowls below him).



We met two nice Canadian girls, Fiona and Evelyn, when we went up to some hot springs, Fuentes Georgina. The springs were beautifully set, and the mist and rain that enveloped us while we were there only added to the atmosphere. Thankfully there were a couple of cooler baths, as we only lasted a few minutes in the first (and hottest) pool. Anyway, we were so pleased, as they decided to join us the next day.


Just A Pretty Shot
Just A Pretty Shot
Cobwebs in a tree in the mist.



If Fiona and Evelyn had not agreed to join us, we may not have done the hike we planned, needing a minimum of four. And, we may never have known what a wonderful experience we would have missed. In fact, it has to be one of the trip highlights. Really, we were not expecting it to be THAT good, just good. The book had not talked it up, and we have not met anyone else that did it (or at least nobody that talked about it).

Santiaguito. BOOM! Erupting a couple of times every hour, and in such a dramatic fashion!


Santiaguito Blows
Santiaguito Blows
Every 20 to 40 minutes, Santiaguito erupts. This fantastic sight, an ash laden plume billowing in to the sky, is accompanied by a roar akin to an aircraft, and the sound of large rocks crashing into the ground. Even from this safe viewing distance, clouds of sulphur laden gasses would blow over us. We watched for about 2 hours (maybe a bit more), and witnessed four eruptions.



Palmar Viejo – Old Palmar. Yes, there is a Palmar Nuevo, but the old one is not that old. It was abandoned, after a mud slide ripped a new ravine through the centre of town in the 1990's. And it was an amazing sight. Firstly, the size of the ravine. It looks like it would need a few millenia to erode such a formation. Secondly, and most striking, is the church.


Church Split
Church Split
A mud slide ripped through town, split the church, and deposited two parts on opposite sides of a newly created ravine! Nature is powerful, hey.



Back on to transport, for a bit. First, another couple of "observations" about chicken buses. Oh, how frustratingly long they can take. Oh, once moving, never fear, there's nothing on the road faster. The engines roar, the tyres squeal, and the brakes smell. Yes, once moving, the worry is how quick they can be. But, before that, you can sit in a terminal for an eon, and then crawl through the streets for an age looking for some more passengers, then stop at an unremarkable intersection for an eternity, squeezing every person possible in. And as alluded to before, squeeze is not over exaggerating. Three adults to a bench, two benches to a row, 10 or 12 rows in the bus. There's 60 to 72 seated adults. Throw in one or two children per seat, so that makes another 30 or so. Another five or ten standing. We have been on buses that full! Quick maths puts us close to, or over, 100 people. Plus driver, assistant, and maybe one or two friends with him.

The most fun transport is the pickup. Hailing at an intersection, leaving instantly, and covering relatively shorter distances, they are often the only way to get to some villages. They carry produce, people, and sometimes even livestock. When crowded, only the driver and a couple of passengers get to sit. Everyone else stands.


Our Transport
Our Transport
After we got out and waved goodbye to our travel companions. There were about 18 adults in the back, plus us, and some children and infants, about 160 kg of vegetables and fruits, and 3 or 4 people in the driver's cab!



All these things, out and about, may have left you wondering about Xela (Quetzaltenango) itself. Yes, it is a town of pleasant character to stay in. A very beautiful square, an old cathedral facade (with a new cathedral behind it), and an arcade with character (despite a slightly neglected feel). Sunday's once-a-month market was a nice way to dine for our last night in town.


Cathedral Of Xela
Cathedral Of Xela
Beautifully lit cathedral of Quetzaltenango (also called Xela).



And now, I am writing this blog, sitting on a bus, many hours later than we should have been. Blockades have come to Guatemala. There was a protest somewhere, so our 8:30 bus was rescheduled for 12:30. Then cancelled for tomorrow. Undeterred we have headed in a different direction, changed buses, and skirted around the area of trouble. However, we are now hours behind, with no hope of making our connection in Guatemala city.

And the reason for the protest? Motorcyclists are protesting a change in the law, which would make it illegal to carry two or more passengers. Imagine that, an oppressive rule meaning you can't take your whole family on your motorbike!

Local Colour And Character Enhance A Beautiful Lake

1 to 4 Jun, 2009 – Lago de Atitlán



Coming to Lago de Atitlán you do have to try to ignore some things. And those things are a direct result of coming here, or more correctly, not being the only people to come here. Firstly, Panajachel has the unfortunate nickname of Gringotenango, because of the huge number of foreigners. On the main street there are 300-500 metres of shops and businesses, with not one aimed at locals. Internet followed by souvenirs next to restaurant by the travel agency adjacent to internet, and so on. Secondly, there are the touts, annoying men and boys who "help" you find a boat, and then you are stuck paying the boatman more because he pays the guy a kickback. Even after telling the touts to leave us alone, they just ran ahead to the dock and waited till we arrived, falsely informing the captain that we were with them. Despite our protests, though, we were now stuck paying the higher fare. It may have got ugly had we been more insistent, so we had to make do letting them know our displeasure with the arrangement.

OK, so the negatives are there. But that's about it in the minus stakes. Panajachel, or Pana to almost everyone (thankfully), is not a bad base. Lakeside, it boasts one of the prettiest lake views around with three volcanoes (looking like two from this angle, though). We found an elevated room with a fantastic view, and for only a dollar or two more than comparable rooms in town with no view. Score!


Two Volcanoes Over Lago de Atitlán
Two Volcanoes Over Lago de Atitlán
Volcán Tolimán, almost totally obscuring Volcán Atitlán. The only reason you can tell there are two volcanoes is because of the wisps of cloud floating in between. Lago de Atitlán provides the blue between us and them.


Volcanoes With Cloud Accents
Volcanoes With Cloud Accents
After waiting hours, and patiently lining this shot up... Nah, just kidding. This was actually snapped through the window of a chicken bus careering violently down the winding road from Sololá to Panajachel on the shore of Lago de Atitlán. On the left are two volcanoes, one behind the other, Volcán Atitlán behind Volcán Tolimán. On the right is Volcán San Pedro.


Another Mood Over The Lake
Another Mood Over The Lake
Every hour, the lake and volcanoes felt different. Partly because of the changing light, but more so because of the changing weather and clouds. This is Volcán San Pedro at sunset.


Volcanoes In The Morning
Volcanoes In The Morning
This was the view from our hotel. I set the alarm to get some photos with the early morning sun. Unfortunately, clouds on the horizon meant we never got the morning glow on the mountains. But, still beautiful, I'm sure you'll agree.



Colour and movement abound in Guatemalan markets. Market days are different in different towns, so it is usually easy to find one to get to. We made the Tuesday market in Sololá and had a lot of fun, despite the stress of taking photos on the sly...


Colourful Women In The Market
Colourful Women In The Market
Women in traditional costume in the marketplace in Sololá, close to Lago de Atitlán, Guatemala.


Indigenous Guatemalan Woman
Indigenous Guatemalan Woman
A beautiful outfit worn with pride and dignity. Sololá market, Guatemala.


Interesting Combinations, Market Day, Sololá
Interesting Combinations, Market Day, Sololá
The indigenous outfits are not at all based on concepts of choosing patterns which match, at least not in the Western sense. Certain patterns and designs are frequently used in trousers, while different ones are used in shirts, or wraps, or skirts. The textiles used are usually colourful, and particularly in women's shirts, often intricately hand embroidered. Although it looks a little haphazard, particularly on the men, it is rarely dishevelled or messy. Locals can tell what village a person comes from by the what they are wearing and the way it is worn or tied. This was taken on market day, when people from many villages descend on Sololá, and the differences and similarities could be spotted in the throngs.



Most of the lakeside villages can be reached by boat (as alluded to earlier). For some, it is the easiest way to get there, while for others it is the only way. And once you put the stress of getting on the boat and trying not to pay the inflated prices behind you, it is a great way to get around.


On Lago de Atitlán
On Lago de Atitlán
A simple boat, which appears to be some planks nailed together with some water sealant squeezed into the gaps.



First, we headed across to the south western side of the lake to Santiago. It has an interesting church, and it is complemented by a fascinating and tragic history (including assassinations and massacres during the Guatemalan civil war). We also had to hunt down Maximón.


Maximón (Pronounced Mah-She-Mon)
Maximón (Pronounced Mah-She-Mon)
Part god, part saint, part Catholic, part Mayan. This photo is Maximón of Santiago Atitlán, on the shore of Lago de Atitlán. There are quite a few in this corner of Guatemala. He looks different in different villages, and even goes by different names. But there are some constants. He's a bit of a chain smoker, with devotees replacing butts with a freshly lit cigarette as needed. Sometimes he even gets to have a cigar. Maximón also has a bit of an alcohol problem, whether it be expensive rum or a bottle of local firewater. It's no surprise that offerings seem to be mainly alcoholic or tobacco products. He has no permanent home. Each Easter, after festivities, another house in or around the town is chosen for Maximón to reside in for the following 12 months. Statues of more mainstream saints, and even of Christ, are kept with Maximón, and are ostensibly guards. Devotees also seem to enjoy a drink or two, and don't mind puffing on tobacco products, while chanting and making petitions to this strange character of enigmatic origin.



Our third lakeside stop was San Marcos La Laguna, on the north shore.


A Woodfired Pizza In The Chest Of An Eagle
A Woodfired Pizza In The Chest Of An Eagle
The pizza was cooked directly on the embers inside this cute oven, made in the shape of an eagle with outstretched wings. There are seats in the wings. There were other seats, in the shapes of people or animals, with arms or wings embracing those seated. The restaurant was called Los Abrazos – The Hugs!


Aaculaax
Aaculaax
Ombi and Alex recommended this place to stay in San Marcos. Built in harmony with the rocks, this was our bathroom. Cute, hey.


Candle Reflection
Candle Reflection
Decoration in the room at the guest house Aaculaax, San Marcos La Laguna.


Be Careful To Not Melt Your Shoes While Toasting Your Sandwich On The Lava

28 May to 1 June, 2009 - Guatemala City, Antigua, and Volcán Pacaya



Our first stop in Guatemala was Guatemala City. Many people avoid it. And nothing in the guide book really inspired us. However, we went for two reasons. The first was business. Airline offices, and ticket changes. The second is a sense of, well, respect. We somehow feel that it is a bit of an injustice to skip a country's capital. Even if it is just a half day, there is usually a couple of things to see. It may be the best "something" in the country, or the biggest "another thing", but there must be a redeeming feature.

And, we did enjoy our sightseeing in Guatemala City. Some interesting street scenes, and some nice buildings, and a disappointment to find that the main thing we wanted to visit was closed due to a visit by the prime minister of Taiwan. Grrrr.


Iglesia de San Francisco
Iglesia de San Francisco
Church interior, Guatemala City.


"Goatemala City" – LOL – I Crack Myself Up
"Goatemala City" – LOL – I Crack Myself Up
Goats in Central Park, Guatemala City. This was not the only flock of goats we saw being herded around. They sell fresh goat milk, by the cup! And talk about fresh. We didn't try any, but they squeeze it straight from the goat!


Main Post Office, Guatemala City
Main Post Office, Guatemala City
One of the more photographed sights of Guatemala City.



However, we did our business, saw our sights, and the day after arriving we headed to Antigua. First order of business - Pacaya.

We have been waiting for years for this moment. Lava. We have climbed a number of active volcanoes, and usually we see lots of smelly smoke. Ever since we first saw an active volcano, we have wondered if we would ever see lava. So, since we started planning on coming to Central America, visiting lava was a priority. And finally, we achieved it. An early departure from Antigua, a not too long and not too strenuous climb later, and we were standing next to lava. Molten lava flows, running down the side of Pacaya. In fact, we were standing on top of lava tubes, with molten lava running through them! The soles of our shoes started to melt! Oh yes, the stench was terrible when a gust of wind came from the wrong direction, but we just put up with it. It was one of the most amazing sights. And yes, we toasted sandwiches. :D


Volcán Agua
Volcán Agua
Volcán Agua, as viewed from the slopes of Volcán Pacaya.


Jo "Skis" Through Volcanic Gravel
Jo "Skis" Through Volcanic Gravel
A fun way to come down a gravelly stretch of Volcán Pacaya – Just go for it!


Our First View Of Lava
Our First View Of Lava
Volcán Agua makes a picturesque backdrop to our first glimpse of an active lava flow. The lava is flowing down the slopes of Volcán Pacaya.


Toasted Sandwich, Anyone?
Toasted Sandwich, Anyone?
I made some toasted ham and cheese sandwiches using the heat from the flowing lava.


Lava Close-Up
Lava Close-Up
Touching a stick to the lava, it bursts instantly to flame.



Back in Antigua, the main thing to do was contemplate ruins. In fact, it is a most beautiful city, with beautifully restored houses and businesses alternating with the facades of ruined (and occasionally restored) churches, monasteries, and convents. Dozens of them. Antigua was once the capital of Guatemala, and had dozens of religious buildings and institutions, and many of them built to staggering proportions. After a number of earthquakes over a few short scores of years, they finally gave up and moved the capital to its present location. The ruins were plundered for building materials, and recoverable artifacts were likewise shifted. But some stubborn people remained. And eventually, Antigua rose.


On The Streets Of Antigua
On The Streets Of Antigua
Two women in traditional dress walk down the streets of Antigua.


Looking Up In The Ruins
Looking Up In The Ruins
Some of the arches in the ruins of the Catedral de Santiago, Antigua.


More Arches
More Arches
A different angle on the arches in the ruins of the Catedral de Santiago, Antigua.


Facade Of Another Ruined Monastery
Facade Of Another Ruined Monastery
One of the many church, monastery, and convent facades in the streets of Antigua.


Indigenous Women Sell Their Wares
Indigenous Women Sell Their Wares
A "market" on the streets, in front of one of Antigua's many picturesque ruins.


Volcán Agua Looms Over Antigua
Volcán Agua Looms Over Antigua
A wonderful streetscape from Antigua, with Volcán Agua looking down at it.