15 to 18 Sep, 2024 - Thimphu - (Bhutan)
Arriving at Bhutan's international airport, you quickly get the sense of how quaint and boutique the experience is going to be. The single runway; the tiny terminal beautifully presented; being the only plane of note in sight; the small arrivals space with respectful images of the royal family; and the two baggage carousels.
Bhutan Baggage Carousel
On arrival at Paro airport, collecting baggage is a uniquely Bhutanese affair, with the two baggage carousels running around models of the country's two finest Dzongs.
But let's wind back 40 minutes or so. Approaching the land of the thunder dragon, we felt like Khalesi on her dragon. Mountains to the left and right of the plane as the pilot weaved the slowing aircraft along the valley, only straightening for the runway 30 seconds or so before the wheels hit the tarmac. Skillfully done, but even the locals say it takes some getting used to.
Paro Airport, Surrounded by Mountains
Back in Paro, we got another view of the airport, highlighting how there are no real approaches that don't avoid weaving through the terrain.
Our flight from Bangkok left at 5:00 a.m. We awoke at 2. Our Paro arrival was early, but our hotel was expecting us. Or so we thought. It is festival time in Thimphu, and accommodation is in high demand. For whatever reason, the hotel thought our reservation was suspect and might have been a scam, so they ignored it. The manager was so embarrassed, and arranged a nearby apartment as an alternative, owned by his sister-in-law, or so we gather. This, though, had us staying in an even less touristed area of a quite untouristy city. Which suited us to a tee.
But, what is this festival? Thimphu Tsechu. Although we had little control over our exact arrival day in Bhutan, after booking, we realised it had us arriving on the last day of this beautiful three day festival. So, airport to hotel (which became apartment), and then off the the main Dzong in Thimphu. Although not terribly bleary eyed, it was very helpful to have such an activity to keep us going through what turned out to be such a long day.
Everyone Wears their Finest
It is Thimphu Tsechu time, and everyone comes dressed in their finest. Some of the younger Bhutanese seemed less satisfied with wearing their finery, but this baby is not yet old enough to mind.
Joining the Crowd
Coming up the stairs at the back of the Dzong, we were not quite ready for the scene. The open space with colourfully clothed dancers, and thousands of spectators filling every available vantage spot.
Searching for Space to Sit
We slowly circuited, watching for people stirring in a "we're about to leave" kind of way. The tsechu runs for three full days, with spectators coming and going at any time. So, it was a patience game.
Eventually we were Seated
It did not take too long, and we found a spot big enough for two. We had to climb around a few people, but that was not considered an issue - given the lack of spaces. Everyone remained seated, and men in official capacity walked around, reminding people who were standing or putting up umbrellas, to get down and not block anyone's views. People walking and looking for seats could not stop for longer than 20 or 30 seconds before being moved along.
Meeting Locals
On our way out of the Dzong, leaving the tsechu, we passed many families stopping to take photos of each other to remember the day. We found it easy to be included, and realised they liked taking us in their photos as much as we enjoyed them being included in ours.
Jo, and Local Ladies
The outfit for women is known as the Kira.
The Young Man on the Left Studies in Perth
Men wearing traditional outfits, known as the Gho.
Even before arriving, on the flight, we had a glimpse in to the Bhutanese reliance on chilli. Chilli was included in the breakfast menu. At lunch, we had our first "ema datse", lots of cut open peppers cooked in a cheesy sauce. Chilli was the star of both our dinner items. In fact, breakfast our second day, when we had eggs and toast, was the first meal where the chilli was just a spicey home made sauce on the side.
Bhutanese Cuisine Uses Chilli, a Lot
It is probably the first time we have been given dishes where chilli is the vegetable, not just the condiment. And then, they add chilli sauce to their chilli based dishes.
The market had tons, with some piles approaching a metre in height.
A Family of Takin
Motithang Takin Preserve.
National Animal of Bhutan - Takin
Part goat, part cow, part yak, part moose. They're big, and quite unusual.
Thimphu's "Dancing Policeman"
Traffic control in downtown Thimphu. The reliable story is, the position of directing traffic was replaced with an automatic system, known as traffic lights. However, whether people just didn't like them, or whether they didn't understand, eventually the only traffic lights in the whole country were eventually removed and the flamboyant white gloved "dancers" were returned to the intersection.
Prayer Wheels - Zangto Pelri Lhakhang
Prayer Wheels - National Memorial Chorten
We Climbed to Buddha Dordenma
Perhaps her Grandparents
Circling the base of Buddha Dordenma.
Inside Simtokha Dzong, Thimphu
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Bhuddhist Prayers and Chanting in Simtokha Dzong
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Photos and videos are not allowed inside the halls, but we were allowed to enter.
In fact, we got some smiles from a handful of the rows and rows of monks who were inside, as we made our way as discretely as we could, from the door to some cushions by the wall.
Two blocks of monks sat facing each other. four rows of robed men and boys, on each side of the temple. The front row had drums, and a few wind instruments were played in the back rows.
Up the front, one very auspicious looking gentleman led them all. His throat singing deeper than I thought possible. In front of each monk, pages and pages of loose leaves with what looked like hand written prayers. Without direction, the instruments and drums instinctively played, the rhythm accelerating and the chanting building, and suddenly, they stop. A short lull. Then, again, the scores of monks continue in slow deep tones.
We had been in there fifteen minutes or so, but they had been obviously going for quite some time, when the instruments were laid down. Quietly, a few monks weaved in and out, carrying large flasks of hot tea, and baskets of bread or cake, and served some refreshment to those who had been praying. This pause was not long. Ten minutes or so, and then, they began again.
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