2 to 6 Jan, 2024 - Monastir, Sousse, El Djem, Matmata, Chenini, Tatooine, Tozeur - (Tunisia)
Rental car from airport, and out in to the chaos of Tunis. Quickly, it becomes apparent, lane markings on roads, even on express arterials, are not even treated as suggestions or guides. They are blatantly ignored. The number of lanes depends on the width of the vehicles negotiating at that moment. Extra skilled drivers seem to find a way to squeeze one more in, but the fluidity of that number, when trucks, buses, or tractors get involved, means drivers are forever on their toes. Assertiveness is imperative. Without it, you are quickly lost, becoming a lonely obstruction for other drivers to vent at as they nudge around you.
But once out of the capital, on the divided toll roads, some order returns. Free of speed humps, animals, and pedestrians, smooth and well maintained, the accelerator goes down and the kilometres tick over as quickly as anywhere else in the world, if not quicker...
As the sun sets, and we venture back on to secondary roads, especially after dark, all eyes peeled again. The biggest dangers are the incredible speed humps that come in 2s and 3s. Once upon a time, they may have been marked. There is evidence of very faded yellow triangles painted on some. There are some speed hump signs still vertical, but many are bent over, faded, or entirely gone. So, we just have to learn where to expect them, and watch the vehicles in front or oncoming. Some of these humps are so significant, they need naming. Ears popped as we dealt with the differential in altitude going over them. So, to encounter any of these black, unmarked, behemoth humps at a speed greater than 15 km/h leaves one wondering if the car suspension is still intact, or the contents of the boot may have bounced out.
Day 1 - airport to Sousse, going first to Monastir. Having that extra time in the afternoon, we worked out we wanted to see something significant before checking in, and overshooting to Monastir was the right amount before sunset.
Inside Ribat of Harthouma
Landmark tower inside the Monastir's beautiful ribat. A ribat is the name given to the small muslim forts that were built on the frontiers during muslim expansion in to north Africa.
"Life of Brian" Backdrop
Shooting location used by Monty Python. Inside Ribat Harthouma.
Our First Stop in Tunisia
Late sun sends long shadows of palms against the walls of the ribat in Monastir.
On from Sousse, heading south, stopping at El Djem. Again, using the very cheap but well maintained toll roads, the distances are quickly covered.
One Entrance
Arches upon arches upon arches.
El Djem - Third Largest Roman Amphitheatre
Picturesque and Evocative
Exploring the many layers of what remains of the 3rd century amphitheatre of El Djem.
We had trouble contacting the hotel we thought we might try. The website seemed to have been hacked and hijacked, they did not answer our emails, and were not on any booking sites. Given it would also be a diversion of almost two hours if they were now closed, we almost changed our minds, but on a whim, headed to the town of Matmata. The hotel was there, open, and thus began our little circuit of Star Wars related locations.
We are not fanatical by any definition. Neither Jo nor myself are sure what proportion of any of episodes 1, 2, 3, 7, 8, or 9 we have seen. Bits and pieces here and there. But the original 3 were from our era, and particularly the first one, episode 4, we know well, and that is the one which had a lot filmed here. Less CGI, less studio work, and more on location filming. And George Lucas and the Star Wars franchise left quite the legacy for Tunisia.
Hotel Sidi Idriss was our stop, known as the Star Wars Hotel now. It was a hotel before that time, but now, it leverages that connection to great effect. It is possible and inexpensive to stay there, but many visitors stop in for a drink or meal while passing through. We did like being overnight guests, despite the simplicity of the accommodation.
The following day we went from location to location, many would have been interesting without any film connection, but the connection means greater effort on restoration and preservation of these sights.
Princess Leia Room
We stayed at Hotel Sidi Idriss, Matmata. Each room in the hotel was named after a character from Star Wars, or a significant name associated with the franchise.
In actual fact, the hotel was already a hotel when chosen to be used in filming. A Berber village, and troglodyte cave structure, it would have been a fascinating stay, even without any movie association.
The Lars Dining Room of Star Wars
This hotel in Matmata, Tunisisa, was the filming location for Star Wars, episode 4. It was used for inside shots of the Lars Homestead, Luke's uncle and aunt.
Young Luke Skywalker Peered Over...
We watched the scene from Star Wars, Episode 4, A New Hope. Just to familiarise ourselves with the scene, again. And then in the morning, worked out this is where Luke peers down to his aunt.
Ksar Hallouf
Restored 13th century granaries, used to film slave quarters scenes for Star Wars Episode 1: The Phantom Menace.
Ksar Hadada, Now a Hotel
While many of the old structures are bare and open, many are converted to rooms of varying levels of comfort.
Mos Espa Slave Quarters: Episode 1
Another Star Wars film location.
Ksar Ouled Soltane
Berber granaries.
More Star Wars
The third Ksar in Tunisia used in filming slave quarter scenes for Star Wars Episode 1, The Phantom Menace.
Stops were made at locations unassociated with movies, too.
Ksar Beni Bakra
Not Star Wars connected. The desolate and largely unrestored hilltop ksar was ours alone for the full time we clambered through it.
Setting Sun on Chenini
We got to Chenini in the late afternoon, and wandered quite aimlessly till a bit past sunset. More than anything, the rapidly dropping temperature encouraged us to finish up.
Tawfik, Newly Friended
After driving hours across the desolate nothingness, we reached the town of Douze. Perfect timing for a break.
Tawfik's little shop was chosen for a bite. A dancer and former Michael Jackson impersonator, he spoke good English and looked after our food needs with a couple of giant wraps.
We left him with a clip on koala to remember us by.
Crossing Chott el Djerid
The road crosses the narrowest point of the salt flat, Chott el Djerid. Barren and featureless, almost horizon to horizon.
By now, day five of our circuit, we were working our way back north in the western part of Tunisia. Not far from the Algerian border, but more significantly, skirting around the fringes of the Sahara. Long straight strips of tarmac connecting oasis towns full of date plantations. When the wind whipped up, the swirls of sand became long fingers over the road, sometimes obscuring it completely. Getting in or out filled the inside of the car with a gritty cloud, and by the evening, we felt quite clogged up with nostrils and the corners of our eyes quite grainy. Even our mouths, with occasional crunching sensations between our teeth.
The men walking in these conditions had their peaked hoods pulled over, their robes wrapped tight to give as much protection as possible. The costume designers must have seen these, and known these practices, and extended it in to the Star Wars movies. "Look there, Obi-wan Kenobi" one of us would indicate. "Oh another over there," the other would reply. Soon we started numbering them. "That must be Obi-two Kenobi". "Obi-three Kenobi, now". We sort of gave up after Obi-twelve Kenobi...
Lars Homestead
The exterior of the Star Wars Lars Homestead. Just out there, on the salt flat. Follow the tracks left by other vehicles trekking out here. There was one unattended souvenir stall, with a plate of money, working on an honesty system.
The Star Wars Town of Mos Espa
The buildings are all fake, but holding up surprisingly well in the desert winds, considering they were built for Star Wars Episode 4.
Mos Espa
This building did not even have an inside. The whole "town" was just three small streets, two intersections, and about 20 or so empty shell buildings.
And a lot of sand.
And a lot of souvenir stalls.
Heading back close to Tunis, day of our 34th anniversary, seems like a good time to break the Tunisia blog.
Our Coffee Stop
It was a very big day of driving, after making our two morning stops. We allowed ourselves a break for coffee, and probably more importantly, a toilet.
We found this large, quite open, building with a sign for coffee. We worked out they had two things available. Coffee, from a state of the cafe style espresso machine, and water pipes.
We had to take our own chairs from the stack, find and move a plastic table to sit at, and there we drank our 50 cent coffees.
Meanwhile, those seated around the other two tables barely looked up, as the men seemed quite engrossed in their card games. Good news when smoking a water pipe, you don't even need to use your hands. You can tuck the pip under your arm and bubble away, leaving your hands free to deal with the cards.
A Surprise Windmill
Winding our way across the back roads of Tunisia, we came across the unexpected sight of a very European looking windmill.
I just loved how this came out in the light, looking almost like a painting.
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