2 to 6 Oct, 2022 - Bukhara - (Uzbekistan)
Bukhara, another beautiful historic city in Uzbekistan. While the trip from Termez was a relatively long 6 or so hours, having a few nights gave us opportunity to recover and chill. We stayed in a guesthouse which was formerly a guesthouse - actually a 19th century caravansaray, with an atmospheric octagonal inner courtyard.
Walls of the “Ark”, Bukhara’s Fortress
Greatly damaged when the Soviets took Bukhara, the Ark is still undergoing renovations. Built and expanded over many centuries, it became the compound for the palace, until the decision was made to absorb Bukhara in to the USSR.
Entrance to the Ark
The western entrance is the only entrance left to this fortress.
Ismail Samoni Mausoleum
Beautiful terracotta brickwork, where even the shadows come to life, bringing depth and interest to the exterior.
Looking out from Kalon Mosque
Taken from in the grounds of the Kalon Mosque, Bukhara. The Kalon Minaret, a beautiful 12th century tower, is clearly visible, and to the left is one dome from Mir-i-Arab Madrasa.
Breakfast at our Caravansary Hotel
Our hotel is a 19th century caravansary, with a cute octagonal inner courtyard.
Indian Inspired Chor Minor Madrassah
Historical landmark building in Bukhara.
A Random House Museum we Passed
Walking the streets of Bukhara, an elderly man gestured us in to his ramshackle home filled with curios and odd items from many different eras. Nothing formal - it was just his house, He showed us up ladders to his roof for some views over the town.
Terrace View while Sipping Tea
Looking out at the domed roofs of the bazaar, the Kalon Minaret, the Mir-I-Arab Madrasa turquoise dome. In the foreground, the Ulugbeg Madrasa on the right and the Abdulaziz Khan Madrasa on the left create bookends for our vista.
At lunch, we found ourselves at a restaurant known for its plov - a Central Asian variant of a biryani, usually with lamb. We were not quite getting our timing right, generally, for plov, as it is made in batches. Good plov restaurants seem to only serve it at lunch time, and since we are beginning most days with a pretty hearty breakfast, lunch is often being skipped or replaced with a light snack. The queue was long, but the turnover high, indications of a highly rated plov. Two Uzbek ladies gestured for us to share the table with them, and after some introductions, they recommended the plov sofi and a jug of cherry compote.
Asal was the name of the daughter, and her excellent English meant we could talk about lots of things. So, we found out that plov and osh are two names for the same dish. But osh sofi and osh are different. Would we like to come to their house tomorrow, where they could treat us to a proper, homemade osh? Did we have to think before answering?
The following day, a pin was sent to us. They lived about 20 minutes drive from Bukhara centre, but conveniently for us, they were 2 minutes from the train station, and us with an overnight train to catch, it could not have been more convenient. We ate osh, drank tea, enjoyed chocolate cake in celebration of her aunt's birthday. We went out and about with Asal, and relaxed in their home until it was time to go to the station.
Osh with Asal and her Family
We met Asal (third along) in a restaurant in Bukhara, with her mother. The place was crowded, and they offered to share their table with us. We got talking, and by the time we finished, they had invited us to their home. So the next day, we came, and they made this feast, with an amazing version of the ubiquitous local dish, osh, also called plov.
Tomb of Shaykh Baha-ud-Din
On the Roof, Dvorets Emira Bukharskogo
Close to the home of Asal, actually in Kogon. We visited this old palace, with an interesting mix of eastern and western architecture.
Learning to Play Chess
In a corner room of the Dvorets Emira Bukharskogo. Close to the front, chess was being taught and played, further back was a bit more anarchic.
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