27 to 31 December, 2019 - Victoria Falls, Livingstone - (Zimbabwe, Zambia)
A combined post seems appropriate, for our little Zim/Zam side-trip. Really, just a taste of these two countries, and it was for the one sight. Victoria Falls. The actual falls, that is. Not to be confused with the town in Zimbabwe about a kilometre away, called Victoria Falls.
So, in planning, the decision to visit the Falls from both sides was a no-brainer. You come this far, spend this much time and effort, you may as well try to experience it from different view points.
We spent 2 nights in Victoria Falls town, Zimbabwe, and 2 nights in nearby Livingstone, Zambia. Zambia, at least in the comparison of these two towns, was far cheaper. Even allowing for extra expense and time getting to and from the falls, it would have probably suited us better to stay the whole time in Zambia, and visit Zimbabwe just as a day crossing. Certainly for accommodation and food, the value was factors above its cross border neighbour. That said, the infrastructure and layout on the Zimbabwe side was more tourist and visitor focused, and perhaps easier if you are short of time and not watching the dollars so much.
If you were here, and only had one day, then the Zimbabwe side is probably the winner. With the majority of the flowing cascades in Zambia, the prime views are in Zimbabwe. We spent around 5 hours walking the paths, sitting and appreciating, having a picnic, and soaking it all in (both literally and figuratively).
From the Zambian side, the views were no less dramatic, but different. Views of the "Knife's Edge" with the throat of the gorge behind it, are evocative and powerful. Visitors with a little more nerve, can make the trip to Livingstone Island, which breaks the falls in to multiple curtains. This trip can be made in a boat, but walking through the Zambezi streams was how we got out there. From the island, you can swim a final channel (a slightly challenging, and a relatively nerve-racking task in itself) to the Devil's Pool. A natural lip where the water flow is calm and slow, right next to the chaos of the falls themselves, where you feel like you are swimming on the edge of the world.
Falls - First View
Despite it being the driest time of year, the spray still filled the gorge. At times, we were soaked in a virtual rain.
Part of the Main Cataract
Trying to Selfie
I don't know if the sun or the spray was the bigger problem, but our new selfie stick came out at the falls.
Victoria Falls Rainbow
On Tour
This family had obviously planned this trip for some time. The shirts were printed on the front with an image of the falls, and a reference to "2019 holiday".
Zebra Lasagne and Crocodile Strips
The Ultimate Infinity Pool
Sitting in the upper Zambezi, with the river flowing by, pouring in to gorge behind us. Victoria Falls from a very unique perspective.
Waving from the Devil's Pool
On the Zambian side, you can walk out to Livingstone Island. This takes 45 minutes, or more, primarily wading in water that is ankle to knee deep. Approaching this spot, you do need to swim around 30 metres through a strong current, but there are emergency ropes. Ultimately, you end up in the pool, right on the lip of the falls, with the most incredible thunder. You sit in the calm little eddies, while just metres away, the water races past and pours in to the gorge below.
Atop Victoria Falls, Zambia
Knife's Edge, and the Zambezi
Victoria Falls, from Zambia
Eating Mopane Worms
Well, they're actually caterpillars. We have seen them mentioned a couple of times, and we found a place that had them on a platter of very appetising alternatives, meaning we got to try them without committing to a whole meal. I felt they tasted a bit like fish - something like mild anchovies, or maybe like fried whitebait. They weren't the best thing we ever ate, but they were passable. Might not order them again, but glad we gave them a go.
Livingstone Letter
There is a small and very interesting museum in Livingstone. It includes one room dedicated to the famous Dr himself, containing a variety of personal items, as well as a thorough run down on the man, the myth, and the facts. The most interesting items, we felt, were the collection of original letters, on glass slides. Unfortunately, he had a very stereotypical "doctor's handwriting"! We did struggle to read the contents, but nonetheless, felt good at making out snippets.
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