... any way the wind blows ...

Christmas 2025 - Friendships Dear

20 to 30 Dec, 2025 - Prague, Auerbach, Zwickau, Mödlareuth, Frankfurt - (Czech, Germany)

Is this the start of a trip, or is it a stop before we begin? The journey will cover five distinct spots, but it all spouted forth from the decision to have Christmas in Germany. Perhaps the conversation we had with Ann in Melbourne a year and a half ago was not meant to be serious, but once the seed was sown, the idea seemed tangible. Maybe we should all meet up in Germany at Adam's for Christmas? Fast forward (skipping numerous WhatsApp messages), and early this month, the Wangs came via Bomba. They progressed overland, and we flew to Prague, as we head to one amazingly memorable friends festive get-together.

But first, Prague. That's where Ryan Air deposited us. Erroneously, we thought we would find the Czech capital in a quiet, almost dormant state. Shortest day of the year, and winter cold beginning to grip Europe. Maybe it would be just us and the locals. Alas, it seems that Prague never goes quiet any more. Charles bridge packed to the ballistrades; phones on sticks to photograph the astronomical clock; countless signs in English and prices in Euros and groups following coloured flags; we were not the only tourists in the city.

From a window
Looking out a window from a Christmas Shop in Prague

Jo, and Charles Bridge
It was cold, but not bitterly so. Rugged up, we enjoyed a couple of lovely days in Prague. The crowds were unexpected. I guess it is "winter break", or "Christmas break". But we thought the city might be in an off-season low. It seems that no longer happens in this wonderful city. You can see the throngs on the bridge!

Europe. Christmas. Markets.
Prague put on a pretty amazing Christmas Market. Loved the square, and the amazing tree. And we ate and drank and festive fashion.

Train got us to Auerbach, where we were to plant ourselves for the next days. We were only some hours ahead of the Wang family, who came by car from their skiing stop in Austria.

Zwickau Christmas Market
But it's hard to beat the Germans when it comes to Christmas markets. They know how to do it, and particularly here in the east. The traditions The decorations. Even the west Germans don't do it this well.

Day 1 of the 2025 Christmas Gathering Spectacular
Hannah and Abbey with Jo, at the Zwickau Christmas market. All the way from Melbourne, to join us for a Christmas like no other. Well, not alone, Ann and Charlie (Mum and Dad) of course, and all hosted by very good mutual friends who are the centre of this gathering in this nook of Germany.

A Section of Wall, Mödlareuth
Mödlareuth was once colloquially known as Little Berlin. A small community, it was divided for over 40 years by the East-West German border. Initially a fence, but ultimately a wall, the little divided village was an oddity, more-so than even Berlin.

Even during the period that the border was active, it was a tourist attraction, as people from the West came to see the extent the East was going to in order to keep their citizens in.

Now, a small section of wall remains, some towers and other infrastructure alongside, to preserve the memory of a weird segment of German history.

The nearby museum is certainly an interesting visit, with Jo deeply engrossed in every story and photograph.

Meeow
Not sure if this friendly cat at Mödlareuth was of East or West German heritage, or perhaps his ancestors were one of the families that was divided by the frontier.

Now, this little ambassador bounces around accompanying rugged up visitors who brave the weather.

Here, he explains the role of the tower behind him, at a gate and checkpoint along the former border.

Christmas Morning
It may have been dark, and it may have been cold, but it was Christmas Day. Clear skies kept the temperature low, but equally kept the snow and rain away.

In front of the church, carols filled the air with a joyous atmosphere. The brass band played with enthusiasm and gusto with the magnificent decorated tree as their backdrop.

Let's join together and remember that Christ came to earth for us.

Home-Made Pasta for Lunch.
Not your traditional Christmas Fair, but the "Italians" were in charge of lunch.

Since we are, in reality, "psuedo" Italian, traditional Italian Christmas food was not fore-front of mind. We did what we knew we could do well.

Any gaps and lacking of traditional Christmas treats would be filled by other courses.

Buon Natale a Tutti
Pausing for a moment and a memory, as we scurry between kitchen and pasta prep room.

During a Lull
The day was not hectic. Abbey and Hannah went ice skating, and the rest of us pottered at times. A walk around town, a game, or just snacking, drinking, and laughing.

Charlie is a talented artist, and he whipped a couple of small watercolours out. He seemed truly in his happy place.

When we Came Together
Each day of our "gathering" saw food responsibility land on a different cohort. We, or more precisely, Jo, got Christmas day.

This did not involve her preparing and doing it all. Perhaps it was more of a designation of prime coordinator and responsibility. What was on the table came from all those present, and showed a representation from many parts of the world.

Here are most of us.

Myself and Jo need no introduction.

Annett and Adam, the absolute best hosts in the world. The former representing Germany, her town, her region, her country. The latter an ambassador for truth, community, understanding, and fun. Opening up the Kerkermeister accommodation for us all, and creating such a beautiful atmosphere of joy and celebration for the near-on-a-week get-together was a great blessing. More than 20 years has passed since we first crossed paths with Adam in Hanoi. Since that encounter, we have met on many occasions in a variety of countries on 4 different continents. This friendship with the two of them is one we especially love and cherish.

Ann and Charlie sit towards the front. Ann directs dumpling production, being one of the world's leading producers of high quality Chinese food. Charlie never lets the language barrier stop him from smiling, laughing, and participating in it all, augmenting his stories with pictures and charades and occasional Google translation help. They are Melburnians, and although our relationship with them was ignited by Adam, they are truly in our special friends circle.

Abbey and Hannah , their delightful daughters. So many laughs we had, especially when the games came out. My goodness, the plots these two seemingly sweet lasses are capable of, Due to the awesome time, I now feel we can say they are friends, elevated from being the children of friends!

To the right, Mariia and Matvii, mother and son, displaced by the conflict in Ukraine. Circumstances leave them far from home away from family and friends. Annett and Adam now form part of their new friendship circle.

Absent from the photo due to juggling multiple engagements: Grace and James, siblings. Grace is involved in the ministry with Annett and Adam, and James was visiting his sister. They dropped in and out during the meal, and whipped up a mean tiramisu.

Post Eating Slump

Frankfurt was our chosen departure city, so train across, three nights, more friends and food, and a package of bulky winter clothes to be posted to Italy.

Late Afternoon, Frankfurt
Scene over the Main river as we made our way from the train station to our hotel in Frankfurt.

Römerberg
In the historic heart of Frankfurt's Altstadt. The pre-Christmas chaos has settled, and the city feels calm.

But Christmas isn't Over
While the trees are still up, I feel like it's still Christmas.

Stereotypical German Food
Dinner with Dirk and Marlene, who agreed to join us for a meal that many may call cliched.

Don't care. We wanted schweinshaxe and schnitzel.

Dirk and Marlene represent another multi-decade friendship. Pauper backpackers in Greece, Dirk was in the same hostel as we had chosen in Thessaloniki. Soon after, he visited us in Melbourne. And again, a few years later, when he and Marlene honeymooned in Australia.

Now, we visit and re-visit them in Germany, both here and in their previous home in Mainz.

Can it Kuwait?

16 to 20 Dec, 2024 - Kuwait City - (Kuwait)

Why Kuwait? It seemed a region just suitable for a four day stop, easily accessible from our waypoint in Doha. A few things to do, but no pressure to fill our days.

It perfectly fulfilled our need. We had an enjoyable stay, with our last day being reserved for a shave after breakfast before our flight.

Kuwait is a strictly dry country. This is really not a problem, especially for a short stay. They seem to make up for it with smoking. Particularly hard to get used to in restaurants.

Warm, welcoming, hospitable. Small in territory, big in heart and flavour. Climate was unexpectedly chill. 18 was a few degrees lower than we expected, but the general consensus was we had come at the right time of year. "In the heat, you can feel the moisture sapping from your body the moment you step out", someone described. "People go shopping at 1 in the morning so they avoid the daytime." Unfortunately, the cool time is short, leading to a general lack of heading infrastructure. Our hotel room was a few degrees cooler than we would have chosen.

Day one was extremely relaxed and laid back. Lots of walking, and a long time in the souq. Having hardly any luggage on this return to Australia, we also did not hold back with the souveniers.

Tea in Souq Mubarakiya
After a not too strenuous time in the Souq, we stopped for tea. A smouldering container of coals ensured what was in the pot did not cool, and we must have sat there sipping for a solid hour and a half, at least.

Regret
The cat decided it would be tolerant. It came out from under the table to allow itself to be patted. Admittedly, the boy was not trying to hurt, taunt, or in any way upset the cat. He just wanted to play. Now the cat was obliged to play. The boy carried it around, put it on chairs. He moved it to another locale where he stopped and stroked it. Bit by bit he upped the ante. More physical and more boisterous. Eventually literally swinging the cat. All the while, the cat had an expression on, indicating it knew it could finish all the torment with one strike of the claw, yet resisting the urge for the well meaning but misguided child.

Grand Mosque, Kuwait
A seemingly bored security guard picked us up at various points as we wandered through the mosque. He indicated areas we may have missed, and pointed out things that may have needed a guide. He invited us to go up to the pulpit to view. We got some tea, juice, water, and snacks. A pleasant visit to this 10,000 capacity building.

Kuwait today largely shaped by the Gulf War. By all accounts, the events of the 90s put the country back 20 or more years. If it wasn't for that event, Kuwait City may have rivalled Doha or Dubai. Encountering war remnants was confronting and moving. Both on Failaka Island, where we travelled for the day, and in the outskirts of the city.

On our third day, we met a hospitable Kuwaiti gentleman who insisted on driving us to our hotel, not letting us take a taxi. In the car, I asked him about the war period. He responded that he had been a prisoner for three months, in Baghdad. That was a sobering thing to find out about someone.

Tank Cemetery
An area on Failaka Island, where abandoned military hardware from the Gulf War has been collected. One of the first pieces of Kuwaiti territory to fall to Iraq in the 1990 invasion, it has never recovered. The residents did not return, and other than some nice beaches with a resort and a small amount of tourist infrastructure, the island is fairly desolate.

Bullet Riddled Bank Building
The National Bank of Kuwait on Failaka Island. Some reading suggests this bank never actually opened. It was allegedly due to open about the day that Iraq invaded. The story of the bank is cloudy, and what events may have led to its particular targeting are as varied as ones imagination.

Inside the Bank
National Bank of Kuwait, Failaka Island.

Looking Out from the Market
The abandoned and ruined market of Failaka Island, looking through to the bank building.

In the First Floor
An apparent location for a gun fight. The brickwork around each window was pockmarked with bullet holes. Where I was standing was a bathroom, severely damaged fittings in place.

Climbing the Minaret
As the sun went down and soft light permeated the town and its plethora of abandoned buildings, we entered the mosque, and were surprised to discover the stairwell was intact and solid. Unfortunately, the collapsed railing meant we could not venture from the door on to the small encircling balcony.

Side of Al Qurain Martyrs Museum
A small pocket of resistance was discovered here, by the Iraqi occupation forces. For hours the house was strafed and rocketed, grenades deployed, and eventually, after a tank was brought in, most of the surviving occupants were taken. Four managed to hide in a roof space to tell their stories - those who were taken prisoner did not survive.

Iraqi Tank, Al Qurain
A tank, in position, across from the house of resistance. Just days before the Gulf War ended, the tank brought an end to the siege of this building.

More generic sights in Kuwait. While some were predicatable, the mirror house may have been the most unexpected point of interest we could have come across.

Some Failaka Island Residents

An Obvious Place to Relax

A Kuwaiti Feast

The Avenues Shopping Mall
Kuwait City.

Wonderfully Eccentric Lidia Al Qattan
Lidia is the artist transformer who spent some 40 years covering almost the entire house, inside and out, in mirror mosaics. Italian born, but married to a Kuwaiti. Her late husband was a politically controversial artist, Khalifa Al Qattan.

Interactive Art
Lidia's art is fun, and much of it is interactive. She uses light and sound, inviting people to immerse themselves in her creations. This art was a game, and involved throwing art decorated tiles with velcro up against rugs. Jo and I were unfortunately beaten by the other pair of guests. Many of her rooms are decorated with astronomical and galactic themes. Glow in the dark elements come to life when the lights are turned off.

Rome and Bomba

2 to 15 Dec, 2024 - Rome, Bomba - (Italy)

We had an Orange reason to be in Rome. Accordingly, we have flown in for a short stay 2 week Italian preparation.

Visiting a Novel Sovereign Entity
In Rome, we stopped in at the "Sovereign Military Order of Malta". One of the only recognised sovereign entities without territory, they even issue passports, believed to be the rarest passports in the world.

Keyhole View, Rome, to St Peter's Basilica
A famous view in Rome, through a keyhole, through property belonging to SMOM (Sovereign Military Order of Malta), over to the dome of St Peter's. We took a rather less successful photo from here with film, in 1995!

Spanish Steps Selfie with Sue and Sean
Sue and Sean crossed Italy to help us celebrate. Our day included such touristic sites as the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain.

View Over Rome

Lighting of The Christmas Tree
It was so nice to be in Bomba for the inaugural lighting of the tree.

Christmas Tree Selfie with Vee and Phil

Love our Little View

Guru Rimpoche Flew on a Tigress - we had to Walk

20 to 22 Sep, 2024 - Paro, Taktshang Goemba, Chele La - (Bhutan)

Kuzuzangpo La. A common greeting, in Dzongka. "Kuzuzangpo" means good health or well-being. Adding "la" at the end shows respect and politeness. We have taken days to master this. Equally useful, and just as much of a mouthful, "Kadrinchey la". Thank you. By day five, we were starting to use the two phrases comfortably, but not always quickly. There was a risk that we would be standing on a doorstep, racking our brains for a minute, only to blurt out "thank you" as we stepped in to a restaurant, smiling at the staff and diners.

As our time in Bhutan nears its end, we head back to Paro, a little west of Thimphu. This is where the airport is located, but it is the most convenient place to stay when visiting Taktshang Goemba, the Tigers Nest. Undoubtedly, the site is what I have been waiting for the most on this trip, and the first photos I saw of this many years ago awoke in me a desire to come to Bhutan. Guru Rimpoche is credited with bringing Bhuddism to Bhutan, and he is said to have flown on a tiger to this site where he battled and defeated a demon. He then stayed in a cave for 3 years, 3 months, 3 weeks, 3 days, and 3 hours. It is now one of Bhutan's most holy places.

Although much of the monastery was destroyed by a devastating fire in 1998, the restoration and rebuild was true and faithful to the original. The king had ordered that it should reproduce as accurately as possible, not just style and building materials, but even using original building methods as possible.

Taktshang Goemba - the Tiger's Nest
Perched high above Paro, the climb to this monastery was obviously rewarding.

From this viewpoint, it felt tangibly close. We had ascended for nearly 2 hours, climbing somewhere between 500 and 600 metres.

But, it was not over. To get "from here to there", we had to descend and re-ascend again, adding perhaps another 100 metres of work.

Entry to the monastery is by ticket. The ticket office is at the start of the walk. You don't really want to forget that!

Selfie, Opposite the Tiger's Nest

Farm Stay Accommodation
Near Paro, we stayed at the "Tsherring Farmhouse".

Our main reason for choosing it was the on-site hot stone baths. But we did want the local experience.

The main building, besides being a temple, had a variety of rooms round the outside. Nothing fancy, but this was our little nook.

Unwinding in Hot Stone Baths
There are rooms of varying size, with one, two, or more baths. We were in room 5. The baths were ready for us, with herbal sprigs floating in them, and steaming indications of hot water.

We lowered ourselves in, and let the hot water perform its rejuvinating magic. As the water cooled, we would knock on the wooden panels. Moments later, a voice would call from the other side - "Stone?" "Yes please", we'd respond. And within a minute we would feel the thunk of large hot stones being dropped in the water of our baths.

So the ends of our baths stick out through the wall, and are well divided from where we sit, and where the stones are dropped, so as to not risk our feet touching the stones directly.

The stones are piled over a fire, and large metal tongs are used to move them about. Two or three men were servicing the baths, cleaning and preparing, or adding stones.

It was an amazing experience.

Farmhouse Dinner
Every ingredient, bar the meat, was from the farm.

The little kitten would not take no for an answer. A lap was her one intention, and discouragement was pointless.

Wind Powered Prayer Wheel
Roadside. It was not even a very windy day, and it had quite a pace.

Bridge at Tamchog Lakhang
Thangtong Gyalpo, hailing from Tibet, built iron chain bridges through Tibet, Bhutan, and elsewhere in the Himalayas, in the 15th century. He is now known as Lama Chakzampa, or Iron Bridge Lama. The last surviving of the 600 year old bridges in Bhutan was washed away by floods in 2004.

This is a recreation, using a lot of pieces from the original bridge.

Mo' momos?
In Paro, we found this little place with 3 or 4 tables, although seemingly doing quite a take away trade as well. Just momos. All sorts of momos.

Here, we have, top to bottom:
- chilli momos;
- tandoori momos;
- crumbed and fried momos (by a name I don't remember); and
- cheese momos.

The kitchen was about 3 square metres. There was one lady seated, just rolling out momo skins to be filled. A chef out back who we could only make out by shape as the shadow darted back and forth. And another two running around to take and fill orders.

It was delightful, and we had food from here twice. The first time, I took takeaway back to the hotel room, and it was so good, we knew our final Bhutan dinner had to be a momo feast.

A Bhutanese Phallus-cy

19 to 20 Sep, 2024 - Cheri Goempa, Pangri Zampa, Dochu La, Punakha, Sopsokha - (Bhutan)

The rules for visiting Bhutan are changing. Slowly. It's a two-edged sword thing. The SDF (Special Development Fee), although temporarily reduced in price, is still expesive. This helps encourage high value, low volume tourism, meaning they make more money from less visitors, and this in turn stops sights from being overcrowded and touristy. The additional requirements that you need a guide outside of Thimphu and Paro means that every traveller is actively engaging and employing locals who have chosen a career in tourism. So, while we obviously dislike handing over more money, we do like the low impact and sustainable result of these regulations.

Even the actual travelling would be near impossible without a driver and car. Accessible public transport, especially to places we'd like to visit, is pretty much non-existant. Some sites of particular note apparently refuse to let a foreigner in if their guide is not with them. Even in Thimphu, where guides are no longer needed, most visitors are already on their tour. Visiting top attractions there, we often encountered puzzled faces as officials pondered whether they were supposed to let us in or not, finally deciding that there did not really appear to be a reason to stop us.

So, even if we had our own way of getting about, we did not feel we could take a risk of travelling to a significant sight, only to be turned away.
As we neared the pass that separates Western Bhutan from Central Bhutan, we stopped at a roadside stall to try a local delicacy, chhurpi. This is a dried yak cheese, and it hangs outside the little booths on string, little white cubes actually looking palatable, almost tasty. As it turns out, we never realy got to taste them. They are hard. Very hard. Insanely hard. We may as well have put a stones in our mouths. After 40 minutes, we gave up. It was not going well, and then we were told 40 minutes was not enough time - this cheese can take hours to soften. Later, we met a lady who told us what she did as a little girl. She would put the cube in her mouth when she went to sleep, and by morning, it was soft enough to chew. Neither Jo, nor I, are that committed to the yak cheese.

Cheri Goemba
First established in 1620, this monastery north of Thimphu is reached by a 45 minute climb on a very pleasant forest track.

Penis Paintings, on a Seemingly Abandoned Home
Roadside, north of Thimphu, between places, really. The multiple phallus inclusion seemed excessive to our way of thinking.