Guru Rimpoche Flew on a Tigress - we had to Walk

20 to 22 Sep, 2024 - Paro, Taktshang Goemba, Chele La - (Bhutan)



Kuzuzangpo La. A common greeting, in Dzongka. "Kuzuzangpo" means good health or well-being. Adding "la" at the end shows respect and politeness. We have taken days to master this. Equally useful, and just as much of a mouthful, "Kadrinchey la". Thank you. By day five, we were starting to use the two phrases comfortably, but not always quickly. There was a risk that we would be standing on a doorstep, racking our brains for a minute, only to blurt out "thank you" as we stepped in to a restaurant, smiling at the staff and diners.

As our time in Bhutan nears its end, we head back to Paro, a little west of Thimphu. This is where the airport is located, but it is the most convenient place to stay when visiting Taktshang Goemba, the Tigers Nest. Undoubtedly, the site is what I have been waiting for the most on this trip, and the first photos I saw of this many years ago awoke in me a desire to come to Bhutan. Guru Rimpoche is credited with bringing Bhuddism to Bhutan, and he is said to have flown on a tiger to this site where he battled and defeated a demon. He then stayed in a cave for 3 years, 3 months, 3 weeks, 3 days, and 3 hours. It is now one of Bhutan's most holy places.

Although much of the monastery was destroyed by a devastating fire in 1998, the restoration and rebuild was true and faithful to the original. The king had ordered that it should reproduce as accurately as possible, not just style and building materials, but even using original building methods as possible.

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Taktshang Goemba - the Tiger's Nest
Perched high above Paro, the climb to this monastery was obviously rewarding.

From this viewpoint, it felt tangibly close. We had ascended for nearly 2 hours, climbing somewhere between 500 and 600 metres.

But, it was not over. To get "from here to there", we had to descend and re-ascend again, adding perhaps another 100 metres of work.

Entry to the monastery is by ticket. The ticket office is at the start of the walk. You don't really want to forget that!


Selfie, Opposite the Tiger's Nest



Farm Stay Accommodation
Near Paro, we stayed at the "Tsherring Farmhouse".

Our main reason for choosing it was the on-site hot stone baths. But we did want the local experience.

The main building, besides being a temple, had a variety of rooms round the outside. Nothing fancy, but this was our little nook.


Unwinding in Hot Stone Baths
There are rooms of varying size, with one, two, or more baths. We were in room 5. The baths were ready for us, with herbal sprigs floating in them, and steaming indications of hot water.

We lowered ourselves in, and let the hot water perform its rejuvinating magic. As the water cooled, we would knock on the wooden panels. Moments later, a voice would call from the other side - "Stone?" "Yes please", we'd respond. And within a minute we would feel the thunk of large hot stones being dropped in the water of our baths.

So the ends of our baths stick out through the wall, and are well divided from where we sit, and where the stones are dropped, so as to not risk our feet touching the stones directly.

The stones are piled over a fire, and large metal tongs are used to move them about. Two or three men were servicing the baths, cleaning and preparing, or adding stones.

It was an amazing experience.


Farmhouse Dinner
Every ingredient, bar the meat, was from the farm.

The little kitten would not take no for an answer. A lap was her one intention, and discouragement was pointless.


Wind Powered Prayer Wheel
Roadside. It was not even a very windy day, and it had quite a pace.


Bridge at Tamchog Lakhang
Thangtong Gyalpo, hailing from Tibet, built iron chain bridges through Tibet, Bhutan, and elsewhere in the Himalayas, in the 15th century. He is now known as Lama Chakzampa, or Iron Bridge Lama. The last surviving of the 600 year old bridges in Bhutan was washed away by floods in 2004.

This is a recreation, using a lot of pieces from the original bridge.


Mo' momos?
In Paro, we found this little place with 3 or 4 tables, although seemingly doing quite a take away trade as well. Just momos. All sorts of momos.

Here, we have, top to bottom:
- chilli momos;
- tandoori momos;
- crumbed and fried momos (by a name I don't remember); and
- cheese momos.

The kitchen was about 3 square metres. There was one lady seated, just rolling out momo skins to be filled. A chef out back who we could only make out by shape as the shadow darted back and forth. And another two running around to take and fill orders.

It was delightful, and we had food from here twice. The first time, I took takeaway back to the hotel room, and it was so good, we knew our final Bhutan dinner had to be a momo feast.

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A Bhutanese Phallus-cy

19 to 20 Sep, 2024 - Cheri Goempa, Pangri Zampa, Dochu La, Punakha, Sopsokha - (Bhutan)



The rules for visiting Bhutan are changing. Slowly. It's a two-edged sword thing. The SDF (Special Development Fee), although temporarily reduced in price, is still expesive. This helps encourage high value, low volume tourism, meaning they make more money from less visitors, and this in turn stops sights from being overcrowded and touristy. The additional requirements that you need a guide outside of Thimphu and Paro means that every traveller is actively engaging and employing locals who have chosen a career in tourism. So, while we obviously dislike handing over more money, we do like the low impact and sustainable result of these regulations.

Even the actual travelling would be near impossible without a driver and car. Accessible public transport, especially to places we'd like to visit, is pretty much non-existant. Some sites of particular note apparently refuse to let a foreigner in if their guide is not with them. Even in Thimphu, where guides are no longer needed, most visitors are already on their tour. Visiting top attractions there, we often encountered puzzled faces as officials pondered whether they were supposed to let us in or not, finally deciding that there did not really appear to be a reason to stop us.

So, even if we had our own way of getting about, we did not feel we could take a risk of travelling to a significant sight, only to be turned away.
As we neared the pass that separates Western Bhutan from Central Bhutan, we stopped at a roadside stall to try a local delicacy, chhurpi. This is a dried yak cheese, and it hangs outside the little booths on string, little white cubes actually looking palatable, almost tasty. As it turns out, we never realy got to taste them. They are hard. Very hard. Insanely hard. We may as well have put a stones in our mouths. After 40 minutes, we gave up. It was not going well, and then we were told 40 minutes was not enough time - this cheese can take hours to soften. Later, we met a lady who told us what she did as a little girl. She would put the cube in her mouth when she went to sleep, and by morning, it was soft enough to chew. Neither Jo, nor I, are that committed to the yak cheese.

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Cheri Goemba
First established in 1620, this monastery north of Thimphu is reached by a 45 minute climb on a very pleasant forest track.


Penis Paintings, on a Seemingly Abandoned Home
Roadside, north of Thimphu, between places, really. The multiple phallus inclusion seemed excessive to our way of thinking.


View to Pangri Zampa
A pleasant bridge (currently closed, unfortunately) leads over the river to Pangri Zampa.


View from Dochu La
Dochu La is the high point of the pass between Thimphu and Punakha. Bhutan's highest peak is visible in the Himalayan vista.


A Kitten Draped in a Pot Plant
Inside Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of the Divine Madman.


Morning Meditation
Beneath the bodhi tree. We came up to the temple early, to catch the atmosphere of individual meditation and group prayer.


Over the Rice Fields
Ascending to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten.


Jo and Sonam



Cat Relaxation and Meditation
Inside Punakha Dzong.


One of Bhutan's Longest Suspension Bridges
It felt stable, and due to not being high, did not require a lot of nerves to make it across.


The Obligatory Picture of Punakha Dzong



Protective Images, Sopsokha
Of course, again, it is the phallic image that makes this an unusual way to decorate one's house.

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Meeting Bhutan

15 to 18 Sep, 2024 - Thimphu - (Bhutan)



Arriving at Bhutan's international airport, you quickly get the sense of how quaint and boutique the experience is going to be. The single runway; the tiny terminal beautifully presented; being the only plane of note in sight; the small arrivals space with respectful images of the royal family; and the two baggage carousels.


Bhutan Baggage Carousel
On arrival at Paro airport, collecting baggage is a uniquely Bhutanese affair, with the two baggage carousels running around models of the country's two finest Dzongs.

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But let's wind back 40 minutes or so. Approaching the land of the thunder dragon, we felt like Khalesi on her dragon. Mountains to the left and right of the plane as the pilot weaved the slowing aircraft along the valley, only straightening for the runway 30 seconds or so before the wheels hit the tarmac. Skillfully done, but even the locals say it takes some getting used to.

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Paro Airport, Surrounded by Mountains
Back in Paro, we got another view of the airport, highlighting how there are no real approaches that don't avoid weaving through the terrain.

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Our flight from Bangkok left at 5:00 a.m. We awoke at 2. Our Paro arrival was early, but our hotel was expecting us. Or so we thought. It is festival time in Thimphu, and accommodation is in high demand. For whatever reason, the hotel thought our reservation was suspect and might have been a scam, so they ignored it. The manager was so embarrassed, and arranged a nearby apartment as an alternative, owned by his sister-in-law, or so we gather. This, though, had us staying in an even less touristed area of a quite untouristy city. Which suited us to a tee.

But, what is this festival? Thimphu Tsechu. Although we had little control over our exact arrival day in Bhutan, after booking, we realised it had us arriving on the last day of this beautiful three day festival. So, airport to hotel (which became apartment), and then off the the main Dzong in Thimphu. Although not terribly bleary eyed, it was very helpful to have such an activity to keep us going through what turned out to be such a long day.

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Everyone Wears their Finest
It is Thimphu Tsechu time, and everyone comes dressed in their finest. Some of the younger Bhutanese seemed less satisfied with wearing their finery, but this baby is not yet old enough to mind.


Joining the Crowd
Coming up the stairs at the back of the Dzong, we were not quite ready for the scene. The open space with colourfully clothed dancers, and thousands of spectators filling every available vantage spot.


Searching for Space to Sit
We slowly circuited, watching for people stirring in a "we're about to leave" kind of way. The tsechu runs for three full days, with spectators coming and going at any time. So, it was a patience game.


Eventually we were Seated
It did not take too long, and we found a spot big enough for two. We had to climb around a few people, but that was not considered an issue - given the lack of spaces. Everyone remained seated, and men in official capacity walked around, reminding people who were standing or putting up umbrellas, to get down and not block anyone's views. People walking and looking for seats could not stop for longer than 20 or 30 seconds before being moved along.


Meeting Locals
On our way out of the Dzong, leaving the tsechu, we passed many families stopping to take photos of each other to remember the day. We found it easy to be included, and realised they liked taking us in their photos as much as we enjoyed them being included in ours.


Jo, and Local Ladies
The outfit for women is known as the Kira.


The Young Man on the Left Studies in Perth
Men wearing traditional outfits, known as the Gho.

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Even before arriving, on the flight, we had a glimpse in to the Bhutanese reliance on chilli. Chilli was included in the breakfast menu. At lunch, we had our first "ema datse", lots of cut open peppers cooked in a cheesy sauce. Chilli was the star of both our dinner items. In fact, breakfast our second day, when we had eggs and toast, was the first meal where the chilli was just a spicey home made sauce on the side.

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Bhutanese Cuisine Uses Chilli, a Lot
It is probably the first time we have been given dishes where chilli is the vegetable, not just the condiment. And then, they add chilli sauce to their chilli based dishes.

The market had tons, with some piles approaching a metre in height.


A Family of Takin
Motithang Takin Preserve.


National Animal of Bhutan - Takin
Part goat, part cow, part yak, part moose. They're big, and quite unusual.


Thimphu's "Dancing Policeman"
Traffic control in downtown Thimphu. The reliable story is, the position of directing traffic was replaced with an automatic system, known as traffic lights. However, whether people just didn't like them, or whether they didn't understand, eventually the only traffic lights in the whole country were eventually removed and the flamboyant white gloved "dancers" were returned to the intersection.


Prayer Wheels - Zangto Pelri Lhakhang



Prayer Wheels - National Memorial Chorten



We Climbed to Buddha Dordenma



Perhaps her Grandparents
Circling the base of Buddha Dordenma.


Inside Simtokha Dzong, Thimphu


CLICK FOR VIDEO
Bhuddhist Prayers and Chanting in Simtokha Dzong
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Photos and videos are not allowed inside the halls, but we were allowed to enter.

In fact, we got some smiles from a handful of the rows and rows of monks who were inside, as we made our way as discretely as we could, from the door to some cushions by the wall.

Two blocks of monks sat facing each other. four rows of robed men and boys, on each side of the temple. The front row had drums, and a few wind instruments were played in the back rows.

Up the front, one very auspicious looking gentleman led them all. His throat singing deeper than I thought possible. In front of each monk, pages and pages of loose leaves with what looked like hand written prayers. Without direction, the instruments and drums instinctively played, the rhythm accelerating and the chanting building, and suddenly, they stop. A short lull. Then, again, the scores of monks continue in slow deep tones.

We had been in there fifteen minutes or so, but they had been obviously going for quite some time, when the instruments were laid down. Quietly, a few monks weaved in and out, carrying large flasks of hot tea, and baskets of bread or cake, and served some refreshment to those who had been praying. This pause was not long. Ten minutes or so, and then, they began again.

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A Land of Castles and Forts, Mountains and Wadis, Deserts and Beaches

16 to 23 Jan, 2024 - Nakhal, Nizwa, Bahla, Jebel Shams, Al Ayn, Jabrin, Wadi Bani Khalid, Al Ayjah, Sur, Wadi Shab, Muscat - (Oman)




All too quickly, another trip is coming to a close, and another "final" blog entry is written. This one covers the time in the main part of Oman.

We opted to spend a bit more for the hire car for this part of the trip, getting a vehicle with 4WD capability. Not 100% sure of needing it, I was hesitant to spend the extra. We had no intention of visiting the deep desert sands, so we knew a true 4x4 would not be necessary, but since we were doing some areas with notorious unmade roads, including steep climbs, we felt obliged to dig deeper and cover ourselves. Now, after returning the car and assessing, the short number of kilometres we drove where it was useful would have been successfully driven in a regular car. Not easily nor comfortably, but possible. You know what they say about hindsight.

We have been observing a local custom. I would be surprised if it was just Omani, but we really don't know if this happens in neighbouring countries. When dining out, we watched the "take away ritual". This involved a customer driving up outside the restaurant and tooting their horn. Someone from the restaurant would then attend to that car. If not quickly, then the little friendly toot is repeated, perhaps as a more pertinent honk. So, the waiter, owner, or maybe one of their children, goes to the most recently arrived vehicle. Sometimes they would be required to run back in to the establishment and return with a menu. Order is taken from the vehicle occupants, which may be just the driver, or may be the whole family. Eventually, a bag or more of food is taken out, and the car leaves. Occasionally it seems the order has been pre-placed, or the driver has left and come back, but this does not appear to be the normal way. While waiting, bored children climb out of car windows or through open sunroofs to entertain themselves. There is often a need for the waiting cars to shuffle around, as they may be double or triple parked.

Jo and I had the idea of suggesting roller skates to these waitstaff, but the stairs and dirt and rocks would probably make implementation of that idea quite treacherous.

South-west we left from Muscat airport. Across the plains for the first half day, before abruptly encountering the mountains, climbing and winding over the next days, eventually nearing Oman's highest point of around 3,000 metres. It was cool at night, there, dropping to around 7 degress.

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Nakhal Fort
19th century fort, overlooking the local date plantations.


Inside Nizwa Fort
Inside the inner fortifications of Nizwa Fort. This is a 17th century fort, the inner stronghold of a much larger castle. Entrance to the fort was protected with multiple secret trap doors and pitfalls, reinforced doors where boiling date oil could be poured on enemy attackers, and many other impressive defensive components.


Nizwa Fort's Destinctive Tower
At 40m high, it would make quite the formidable task for any army of that day to consider.


Bahla Fort
One of the largest forts in Oman. Rooms here were generally left empty and unlabelled, allowing the visitor to be creative and hypothesise as one scrambled in and out and around the multitude rooms and the Escher like stairways.


Bahla Fort Interior
Built and modified over the 12th to 15th centuries. The mud-brick walls, as well as the architecture and layout, looked and felt quite different to the other forts we have visited so far in Oman. Not less refined, but they certainly did not feel as evolved.


Wadi Ghul Viewpoint
Looking down in to Wadi Ghul from the top of Jebel Shams. This canyon is often called the "Grand Canyon of Oman", and a deserved title it is indeed.


A Stop on the Balcony Walk
The balcony walk is a 5-6 km trail that runs in to Wadi Ghul. It is reasonably level, and although narrow in parts, never precipitous. Doing it in the morning meant we basically were in the sun for the majority. This lookout point seems to occasionally operate as a cafe, with two tables, although there was nobody when we came through. It is reasonably near the end (or start, depending whether you need a break early).


Another View From the Balcony Walk
Deep in Wadi Ghul, Oman's Grand Canyon.

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Then east, rapidly loosing altitude, till it was a pleasant 27 degrees by the coast. Circling back to the north, we finished with a coupld of days in Muscat.

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Beehive Tombs, Al Ayn
Some of the beehive tombs of Al Ayn, lined along a ridge. Dotted at various sites in the area, they are believed to be between 4000 and 5000 years old.


Inside Jabrin Castle
We both felt that Jabrin Castle was our favourite in Oman. The size and layout made for an excellent visit, and a good quantity of information. The furnished rooms, just lovely, and the painted ceilings are especially noteworthy.


Culturally Appropriate Signage


By the Lake, Wadi Bani Khalid
I had read about this location, but when it featured on the plane in Oman Air's in-flight safety video, I was inspired to upgrade it from "maybe" to "must do".


Chai by the Water
Although not visible in the shot, in this lake, and further upstream, families swam and played. It was joyful, listening to the chatter and laughter, children squealing with delight, adults calling and joking.

We didn't swim. Just drank chai and absorbed the atmosphere.


Deeper in Wadi Bani Khalid
Further up the wadi, the rock pools of various sizes were also inhabited by paddlers and swimmers.


Hmm, Adulterous Soap
A shop sign in the ladies souk in Sur.


Wadi Shab
Getting close to Muscat, we visited Wadi Shab. It seemed to be the most touristy place we have been in Oman, with many nationalities seemingly represented amongst those heading up. First, there was a boat trip across a smal "lake" from the car park, then on foot, past ancient water channels that are still maintained, modified, and important.


On our Walk, Wadi Shab


We Ordered Too Much
So, we knew we were ordering more than we needed. We forgot they would automatically give the rice, salad, pita, dahl, and hummus.

The prawn masala was excellent, but the chicken nashif was out of this world.


Old Muscat Gate
Unusually, Old Muscat is not at the heart of Muscat city. What tends to happen, is the historic heart remains the heart of the city, to some degree or another. A new centre may spring up, but the new city surrounds and engulfs the old city.

Muscat, though, has its new city along the coast. Kind of bumped against the old city, but then sprawled out away from it for the next 20 or more kilometres.

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