28 Dec, 2021 to 9 Jan, 2022 - Castel del Monte, Alberobello, Otranto, Santa Maria di Leuca, Gallipoli, Lecce, Matera, Gravinda di Puglia, Castelmezzano, Viggiano, Padula, Foggia - (Italy)
Soon after Christmas, we went on the road. South-east, right to the tip of Italy's heel. Then back up to Bomba through the centre of the country. The first few days, we kept moving a little bit. Two nights, two towns, and a number of stops en-route.
Castel del Monte - Exterior
Castel del Monte
Looking up from the inner courtyard. We had stopped at Castel del Monte in earlier in the year, but as it was high season and we had not pre-booked tickets, we were unable to go in. This time, we were driving south, in the vicinity, and we made our bookings online to ensure we would get to see inside.
Christmas Lights, Alberobello
A suburban part of Alberobello. Corners and nooks were lit with scenes and mini stories. Some of a traditional motif, with a bible verse, and some based on local stories and themes.
Our Trullo Bed and Breakfast
It was wonderful to stay in a traditional trullo house in the middle of Alberobello historic centre.
View Over Alberobello
Walls of Otranto
Eastern most town on the Italian mainland, with a small harbour, and a strategically important spot at the strait between the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic. The town changed hands a number of times, between the Greeks, Romans, Ottomans, and others. The castle and town walls attest to the efforts put in to retain the town.
The Martyrs of Otranto
The skeletal remains of some 813 residents of Otranto, beheaded in 1480 when the city fell in to the hands of an Ottoman force. They are said to have rejected the option of converting to Islam.
Skulls and Assorted Bones
Remains of the Martyrs of Otranto.
Skulls, Up Close
Relics in a chapel in the Otranto Cathedral, the Martyrs of Otranto.
Mosaic Floor, Otranto Cathedral
While the skulls are an interesting draw for the Cathedral, the cathedral is bestowed with other interesting sights, including the amazing mosaic floor from the 12th century.
Gallipoli, Italy
Another Gallipoli, diverse from the one us Australians automatically think of.
Fishermen, Gallipoli Harbour
Down on Italy's heel, Gallipoli has a very pleasant old town. The harbour is protected by a well proportioned and picturesque castle.
Church of Santa Croce, Lecce
Our first multi night stop, Matera, was on my personal list of must visits, probably since week one in Italy. When it appeared in the newest 007 film as a key filming location, then the inspiration grew. Timing it with New Years Eve was a fantastic bonus. After booking it, Paul and Justin, friends from Melbourne, informed us they wanted to meet up with us. Let's do it. Matera.
I did not know how much of a thrill it would be to hunt filming locations. Although, it became a rollercoaster, too. We didn't need to see every pavestone that was filmed, but a few key scenes were tempting. There were disappointments, when we worked out that certain things didn't really exist. Temporary sets luring us to idyllic locales that turned out to be bare fields, or scenes filmed from non existent balconies. This was contrasted with joy at the recognition of landmarks, and the game of working out how that sequence might have been filmed.
Matera
Our B'n'B was just opposite here, and this was the view we had (from the roof terrace, at least) over the ancient city of Matera.
Cistern Beneath Matera
Abandoned a century or so ago, the water cisterns beneath Matera have recently been drained and restored. They are no longer used as a water source for the city, but are now another tourist attraction. But a splendid sight, amazing engineering of its day, and a real appreciation of the importance of supplying a city with a good amount of water.
Evening Light, Matera
Lights coming on, and a prominent Christmas tree pokes out to remind us the photo was taken in late December.
Appetisers Arrived
New Years Eve. We met up with Justin and Paul, friends from Melbourne, Richmond even. When the first two plates arrived, we thought it looked like a lot to share between four. Then another two plates arrived. With another four courses to come, plus panetone, we were going to need the whole time until midnight to move our way through the food.
Fireworks Over Matera - Welcome 2022
As the New Year ticked over, and we cheered and watched the fireworks, we embraced each other, our friends, and even our restaurant hosts. Many wishes for a wonderful 2022 were given by all to all.
Looking Across to Matera
We crossed the gorge and picked our way up to this viewpoint. Both sides of the gorge, for many kilometres, are dotted with caves of various size, many turned in to chapels and churches with ancient frescoes. A few were accessible from this path across, and despite their varying state of preservation or lack there-of, they were interesting spots to visit.
Yes, It's Me, with Matera
Jo in a Near Forgotten Cave Church
Madonna degli Angeli. We were the only people up there, and so even just to be somewhere the crowds weren't going was a plus. The state of abandonment made me feel a bit sad, especially to see that some visitors had chosen to graffiti right over the top of centuries old paintings. Even in there decaying state, or maybe because of that, they deserve respect.
Piazza San Giovanni Battista, AKA "Donut Square"
A full 360 panorama of a piazza which featured in the Bond film, "No Time to Die". Apparently, it gained the pseudonym of donut square. In the movie, our hero in his Aston Martin, taking a beating from the villains, unleashes a furious barrage of firepower as he spins the car around in the centre. Thankfully, it was all special effects, and they didn't really fill all the buildings and the 12th church with bullet holes....
Cripta del Peccato Originale
The Crypt of the Original Sin, near Matera, has unmatched paintings from the 8th century, featuring paintings that have earnt the unknown painter much acclaim for the style he brought to his art of that era. The freedom he painted with, and his attempts to bring together, particularly the early part of the Old Testament, in a simple flow, were beautiful. Here, we see the serpent tempt Eve, who takes the fruit, and after tasting it, offers it to Adam. He in turn, willingly, almost happily, accepts to participate in this activity, contravening the one restriction God has placed on them, and leading to their downfall, and ultimately, the downfall of humanity.
Viaduct, Gravina di Puglia
Another James Bond "No Time to Die" film location. In the movie, they tricked us in to thinking it was in Matera, but in reality, it is around 30 km to the north.
For our anniversary, we had ourselves in at a Bed and Breakfast with an anniversary worthy outlook. Parting with Paul and Justin in Matera, we had a couple of short stops on the way across, but Castelmezzano is not a long way from Matera.
BnB View, Castelmezzano
OK, the balcony was small, but the view was true to what the website implied we would get. We were thrilled, and would recommend the place to anyone heading anywhere near here. Downside? A steep walk in to town. A minor inconvenience.
Sunrise, First Colours
Morning, Castelmezzano.
Sunrise, Last Colours
Morning, Castelmezzano.
View Back to Castelmezzano
So, while these are not "The lomites", they are dolomite formations. Dolomite is the name of the mineral, so that will do for the geology lesson. The dramatic nature of the formations is all we really care about. It was not too arduous to walk down from Castelmezzano, across the river, and up to this fine viewpoint, above the town of Pietrapertosa. Not visiible in the photo, there is a zipline running from one of the further peaks across to the one we took this photo from. Volo dell'Angelo - Flight of the Angel. Deep down, I was probably relieved it was closed for the season when we were there.
Heading Out
We Wanted to be on the Terrace for the View
We had consciously decided that an anniversary lunch would be preferable to allow, despite the lower temperatures, the view while dining. After all, the vista is what makes Castelmezzano so amazing. Happy 32 years, my love.
The return up to Bomba saw us doing two improptu overnight stops. The last night was in Foggia, about 3-4 hours shy of Bomba. Walking the town in the evening, an Italian couple tapped us on the shoulder. They recognised us from Bomba. That just blew me away.
All in all, it was the perfect little tour.
Surprised Shepherds Discover the Madonna
The Black Madonna of Vigianno is an important icon, with pilgrims descending on this little town in their thousands. The statue itself was inside this church. It is possibly over a thousand years old, but was lost in 1050 when the city where it originally was housed, Grumentum, was destroyed. Centuries later, it was found by shepherds (who do appear both surprised and delighted). In May, the statue is transferred from this sanctuary to a church in the mountains, close to where it was found. And in September, the crowds follow it when it is carried back here.
Fourth Century Jaw Fragment
San Prospero Martire. according to the label, but confusing as his skull is supposed to be elsewhere. Leading me to believe the jaw is not his, but that maybe a small relic of his is in the box....
There Must be an Interesting Story Here
The Monastery Kitchen
Stove and Kettle
In the Padula Charterhouse kitchen.
In Case You Don't Know Where You Are
