Current Travels

A Dolomite Gathering

11 to 18 July, 2018 - Livorno, Cortina d'Ampezzo, and numerous excursions - (Italy)



We're in Italy. On the ferry, I ordered some drinks at the bar. They rang it up on the register and then indicated they don't take credit cards. I went to the table and just as I came back, a waiter behind the counter knocked the tray of the cash register on to the floor. Money went everywhere and the two staff started yelling at each other in Italian, obviously trying to shift the blame on the other. We're definitely in Italy.

The drive from Livorno to Cortina was quite a big one. We stopped a couple of times for coffee and to stretch, and then
picked up Leanne Rhodes, a friend from Australia currently living in Romania. We found her with little trouble outside Venice, and headed up to our apartment with a view in Cortina.

Here, we had a group of varying members for a week. Leanne stayed the whole time. We know her from Bridge Church, and have stayed close in spite of her moving to Romania as part of setting up a charity called Abolishion. Andrea, Herman, and Linda are 3 members of the Ruchti 4 (Stefan could not make it). This is meeting number 7 with them. They are our most consistent meet up Europeans, driving down from Germany to be with us in Cortina. Anna Smith is from London, but came to Melbourne to study the Masters program that Jo completed last year. They became close, and she came in and out via Venice. Finally, Peter Iagnocco arrived last and stayed till the end. He was a colleague of Jo's some years ago, and we stayed with him in Italy, too, 5 years ago in Barga.

Seven nights, and six full days; with four of us, or all eight. Every day we hiked. Once it was short - a bit under 8 km. A couple of times we nearly made 15 km. And the others were in between. Our jaws dropped, time and time again. It is hard to believe just how beautiful the area is. Breathtaking vista after astounding view. Not a single disappointment. What's more, despite threatening to open up, we never got caught in the rain. We had some near misses with short downpours minutes after completing a walk, and one which came and went while we had coffee and beer at a rifugio. However, time and time again we were blessed with magnificent scenes and awe inspiring outlooks.

Here are some pics. It was super hard to reduce the number of photos I would include!

Reflection in Lago d'Antorno
Reflection in Lago d'Antorno

Tis the Season for Young
Tis the Season for Young

View from a Random Walk
View from a Random Walk
We parked at Passo Tre Croci, chose a random trail that went up. Soon we were rewarded with beautiful views.


Looking over the Town of Cortina d'Ampezzo
Looking over the Town of Cortina d'Ampezzo
Our apartment is somewhere on the opposite slope, just above the town.


One of the Towers - Cinque Torri
One of the Towers - Cinque Torri

View from a Trench near Cinque Torri
View from a Trench near Cinque Torri
Just near the peak, a number of World War I sites have been restored and can be visited as an "open air museum" of sorts. This shot is taken from one of the trenches.


Panorama from Cinque Torri
Panorama from Cinque Torri

Up Close and Personal with the Five Towers
Up Close and Personal with the Five Towers
Walking at Cinque Torri.


View over Rifugio Cinque Torri
View over Rifugio Cinque Torri

Along a Trail
Along a Trail

Making Pasta
Making Pasta
Leanne directed the ravioli making. Not sure what she and Andrea are talking about in the background. Jo and Anna are rolling out with makeshift pins. The ravioli was stuffed with ricotta, lemon, and parmesan. We enjoyed it with a light sauce of zucchini and pancetta.


Us with 3/4 of the Ruchtis
Us with 3/4 of the Ruchtis
In front of Lago di Sorapis. Herman, Andrea, Linda, and then myself and Jo, of course.


The Group at Lago di Sorapis
The Group at Lago di Sorapis

Magnificent Panorama, Lago di Sorapis
Magnificent Panorama, Lago di Sorapis

Peak and Lake
Peak and Lake
Lago di Sorapis.


Flower, Lake, and Peak
Flower, Lake, and Peak
Lago di Sorapis.


The Full Crew
The Full Crew
The only photo we have with all of us. Going around the table, Andrea and Herman, Peter, Leanne, Anna, myself and Jo, and Linda.


View from Rifugio Faloria
View from Rifugio Faloria
We took the cable-car up, and walked down.


One Vista on our Way Down
One Vista on our Way Down

Descending from Faloria
Descending from Faloria

View from Son Pouses
View from Son Pouses

Looking Out, Son Pouses
Looking Out, Son Pouses

War Tunnel, Son Pouses
War Tunnel, Son Pouses
While climbing over Son Pouses, we found the remains of buildings. Behind these, in the rocks, are large man made cavities in the rocks. We began exploring, and soon discovered there were long tunnels connecting them. The four of us spent a long time clambering through. I lost all concept of the depth of how far we went - dozens of metres at least - maybe a hundred or more. Son Pouses was a strategic point in the World War I - but my first researches indicate these placements may have been made by Austrian rather than Italian troops.


Flower Bee
Flower Bee

Kind-of Deconstructed Donut
Kind-of Deconstructed Donut
A dough, extruded like some small noodles, fried and served with fresh berry jam and chocolate.


Returning from Rifugio Ra Stua
Returning from Rifugio Ra Stua

Panorama near Passo di Giau
Panorama near Passo di Giau

Descending behind Rifugio Averau
Descending behind Rifugio Averau

The Last Bit of this Hike
The Last Bit of this Hike
Peter and I, coming up the last ascent, returning to our starting point near Rifugio Cinque Torri.


Bell Tower
Bell Tower
Main street of Cortina d'Ampezzo.


Sharing a Starter with Peter and Leanne
Sharing a Starter with Peter and Leanne
Our final dinner in Cortina, shared with two dear friends.


On Sunday, the television was on for the first time - World Cup final. Despite trying a few hundred channels, we could not find a station that was telecasting with a proper commentary, even in Italian. There was one broadcast with no talking, and one with a group of people in a studio talking about the match, while it was on, but not actually describing or getting excited. There were some supporting Croatia, and the others supported France. The ones supporting France wore berets and striped shirts, and waved baguettes about when a goal was scored! During play, the action was punctuated with "boings" and "crash" sound effects when people fell over or ran in to each other. There were crying baby sound effects when a player fell. It was cheesy to the max! The suggestion was that they didn't really care any more, since Italy wasn't playing!

Is there such a thing as a bogan in Italy? I think I found one at a service stop on the way to Trieste. The lady in front of me, in her Crocs, bought a trashy looking magazine, a packet of cigarettes, and some scratchy lottery tickets. It's pretty close to perfect.

Returning the car in Trieste. Stress, stress, stress. We had our bus booked for Ljubljana at 13:00. The car hire office was listed as closing at 12:30. We awoke to find an email telling us the office has just moved, to a location much less convenient. So I dropped Jo with the luggage, and drove to the other end of town. Here I could find no evidence of a rental office, and a building which says it closed at 12:00. I read this at 12:05, and decided to go to the old office. It was definitely closed, with signs saying to call a number in Rome. I drove to Jo, called the number, and they told me they would get someone to the office and for me to go there now. I drove back to the office to find nobody. Ringing again I was instructed to drive to the new office. I returned to that end of town. I picked up the man from the rental company, and traversed town again back to Jo, this time filling in the paperwork as we drove. We got in to the bus station, more or less right on time, but we had a chance to catch our breaths - the bus was 15 minutes late. We did make it, and nobody knew just how fine it was, but sitting on the bus we could not have been more thankful that we were still going to be in Slovenia soon after lunch time.

Of Corse we Can

6 to 10 July, 2018 - Les Calanques de Piana, Bonifacio, Pinarello, Corte, Bastia - (Corsica, France)



We have had to say no to visiting Corsica on a few occasions, but this trip it was locked in. Ferries booked; car hire confirmed; expectations set. Our ferry from Marseille went overnight. Having splurged for a cabin, we slept very soundly. But then the boat arrived early, which did not at all suit us at all - we were awoken mid dreaming and then had to go ashore to find breakfast in Ajaccio to fill in time before the rental agency opened for business.

Departing Marseille
Departing Marseille
On the ferry, leaving Marseille, on our way to Ajaccio, Corsica.


Day one on the island we worked our way up and down the west coast. Many stops for photos, and I must confess not all were at safe places on the road. This was punctuated by dodgy u-turns, unsafe reversing, and running across the road on blind corners. No amount of danger should prevent the photographic capture of a beautiful scene.

Camembert Ice-cream
Camembert Ice-cream
It was way more delicious than it sounds. And we weren't getting anywhere near enough dairy in our diet.


Les Calanques de Piana
Les Calanques de Piana
On the west side of Corsica, a road runs ten kilometres or so along the coast, from Porto to Piana. Amazing views are just the start of the beauty in this stretch. The rusty ochre rock formations light up in the sun. Their peculiar shapes and forms inspire the imagination to perceive faces or animals. There were some stretches where we would only drive a few hundred metres before needing to stop for another photo. I believe we were quite the road hazard, stopping, backing up, turning around in tight spots.


View of Porto
View of Porto
The seaside village of Porto - one of the few spots along this coast where the road drops to sea level.


Les Calanques de Piana
Les Calanques de Piana
A more detailed shot of some of the rocky crags which make this drive so magnificent.


Love Love
Love Love

A lovely campsite for night one. Day two - down to Bonifacio at the southen part of the island. What we had not counted on was a fortuitous good timing with the Bonifacio light festival, festi lumi. This was a mini "white night", with the emphasis on light based entertainment. There were various entertainers about, art installations, and they combined to make the city a beautiful space to wander through and absorb. We spent four or more hours inside the citadel after sunset.

Part of the time was spent in the midst of a crowd, out the front of a bar, watching Croatia in a penalty shoot out with Russia. It was less about the game, and more about the atmosphere. 15 minutes of roars and sighs. It was difficult to work out exactly which side the crowd was on, and we got the feeling they were not caring so much about the winner but were just involved in the skills.

Moules et Frites
Moules et Frites
We've been hanging out for mussels since, well, before we even left Australia!


Citadel of Bonifacio
Citadel of Bonifacio
A stocky fortress in the south of Corsica. Bonifacio was a real highlight of the island.


Looking out from Bonifacio
Looking out from Bonifacio
The Bouches de Bonifacio, as viewed from the citadel.


Lanterns in Bonifacio
Lanterns in Bonifacio
As the night set in, the lanterns of the light festival lit up the labrynth of alleys within the citadel.


Video Projection
Video Projection
A captivating cycle of videos played on a pair of buildings at the western end of town. We watched the whole sequence many times. This is the face of Espace Saint-Jacques.


Silhouettes
Silhouettes
Reverse silhouettes were cast on walls in numerous locations around town. Children enjoyed adding their own shapes to the scenes. A video plays on the surface of an old tower in the background.


An Art Installation
An Art Installation
A mixture of music, light, and video brought this character through a range of incredible stages. It stirred emotions - Jo commenting that she found some of it disturbing. Job done, then, from the artist's perspective.


Video Projection
Video Projection
This is a still from the video projection on the tourist information building of Bonifacio.


The Walls of Bonifacio Lit up for the Light Festival
The Walls of Bonifacio Lit up for the Light Festival

The camping continued. Bonifacio, Pinarello, and Bastia. Each location different - each with its advantages. However, there was a major downside to our Bastia campsite. Its good location - near town - means that it was right next to a night club. We were forewarned, but it was qualified with "most Mondays they are not open". This Monday, they were. The music cranked up at 22:30, and thumped through tent until 2:00. It was actually harder to tolerate due to the DJ's general good choice of music. So we lay in bed, cross about the situation, singing along in our heads.

Picnic on the Rocks
Picnic on the Rocks
Pinarello. The beach was very nice, but for picnicking we headed on to the rocks. The setting sun lit up the Genoese tower on the little island.


Corte Citadel, Central Corsica
Corte Citadel, Central Corsica
Corte, a once was, and short-lived, capital of the island. Geographically, and to some extent culturally, the heart of Corsica.


Nid d'Aigle
Nid d'Aigle
The citadel in Corte is called Nid d'Aigle, the Eagle's Nest.


Riddled by Bullets
Riddled by Bullets
A battle scarred building in Corte.


Morning light on Bastia
Morning light on Bastia

Vieux Port, Bastia
Vieux Port, Bastia

Loire and Lot

28 June to 5 July, 2018 - Orleans, Blois, Saint Cirq Lapopie, Cahors, numerous other villages - (France)



We left Paris in our little hire car - tiny boot stuffed to capacity. Lunch was at a roadside restaurant with a two courses and wine special. These sorts of deals are par for the course in these parts. Don't know how the truckers do it, day after day. Eating a hearty meal with a glass of wine tends to induce sleep rather than perk up. I appreciated having Jo in the passenger seat, giving me a poke every now and then to ensure I remained awake.

We reached Orleans and found a great little campsite a few kilometres out. It's hard to describe the enjoyment we get from setting up the tent and doing things a little basic for a few days. Don't worry, basic in this part of the world includes fine cheese, saucisson, and fine local reds.

Orleans Streetscape
Orleans Streetscape
A typical view in the old town area of Orleans.


Orleans Cathedral
Orleans Cathedral
Joan of Arc attended mass here in 1429, when she was liberating the city from a siege.


Cathedral Interior, Orleans
Cathedral Interior, Orleans

"I Don't Care - Talk to the Hand"
"I Don't Care - Talk to the Hand"
Stained glass window, Orleans Cathedral.


Orleans is on the Loire River, and we felt it would be remiss not to visit at least one Chateau. We chose to go to Blois (pronounced Bluwah, or blWAAH if you are deliberately trying to make fun of the French Language). It was only meant to be a short stop en-route to one or two more fine places in the region, but we ended up becoming so immersed in the place that we filled the day there before returning to our camp.

Spiral Staircase - Chateau de Blois
Spiral Staircase - Chateau de Blois

Avoiding toll roads does add some time to the drive, but also keeps things a little more interesting. Adding in some stops, our journey to the Lot River was quite a big day, arriving at our destination of Saint Cirq Lapopie by late afternoon. If you think it juvenile that we made fun of how to pronounce Blois, then the childishness continued for the next few days. We created numerous different ways of saying Saint Cirq Lapopie. For a start, there are so many syllables which can take the emphasis. Then, you can inflect up, down, or mix it round. And there is almost no limit to how high you can take the highest note. For example, start low on "Son", follow with a middle toned "Cirrk", and go wild with "lah-POHH-pee". That's kind-a how we ended up doing it most times.

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie
Saint-Cirq-Lapopie
Around 23 years ago, we came through Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. It was siesta, and the place was deserted. In spite of this, or maybe because of it, the town stayed with us. Jo vowed, many times, that we would return one day and stay here. And so, here we are, to fulfil that undertaking.


Population 200
Population 200
Viewing the medieval centre of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, from the ruined castle at the top of the hill.


Sophie's
Sophie's
This is the house we rented in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. Basement - Kitchen and garden (the town is incredibly sloped!). Ground floor - Entry, sitting area, and bathroom. First floor - Lounge, and great views from front and back. Attic - Bedroom and toilet, and more great views.


500 Year Old Fireplace
500 Year Old Fireplace
Sophie confided that the fireplace was a significant fitting that swayed their decision to buy this property. I don't blame them - I would easily be swayed by that single feature, too.


View out the Back
View out the Back
View from the house we rented - Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.


A little under a week was enough time to do a few excursions, not spending too long in the car on any day. So many delightful towns and villages to explore.

Vignac
Vignac
We climbed to the castle and clambered all over it. Afterwards, we rewarded ourselves with an ice cream in the square by the church. Excellent efforts deserve recognition.


Autoire
Autoire
Autoire is different to so many of the other pretty medieval towns. Those that have tended to survive and retain their character are those with castles and forts, typically perched on hills and clifftops. Quaint Autoire is nestled in a valley.


Turrets in Autoire
Turrets in Autoire

Loubressac
Loubressac
Another village in the collection of the most beautiful villages in France.


Carrenac
Carrenac
Carrenac is very striking. The imposing castle, abbey, and cathedral dwarf all the other buildings in town.


Medieval Buildings, Carrenac
Medieval Buildings, Carrenac

Through the Gate
Through the Gate
View of the cathedral steps.


In a Hurry
In a Hurry
Detail from the carvings above the cathedral entrance.


Fortified Medieval Bridge
Fortified Medieval Bridge
This bridge in Cahors was one of the most important bridges over the Lot River. It is incredibly impressive, and significantly iconic.


Stained Glass, Cahors Cathedral
Stained Glass, Cahors Cathedral

By the Road, Somewhere in France
By the Road, Somewhere in France