Current Travels

It's France with an Active Volcano

7 to 10 January, 2016 - St-Andre, Piton de la Fornaise, La Brule - (Reunion/France)



Reunion. A French department in the Indian Ocean. Geographically, it's Africa. Culturally, it's laid back France. Magnificent topography, formed by numerous volcanoes, not all of them extinct.

We picked up a hire car, dealt with odd opening hours, discovered how little English was spoken here, and dined on take-away Creole food and a bottle of red. That was day one.

The second day saw us discovering some of the beautiful natural wonders of this island. The afternoon had us climbing high to spend the night close to the volcanic heart of Reunion.

A Beautiful Local
A Beautiful Local
Being French, geckos here care about fashion. I wonder if a gecko in Reunion calls in French?


Gecko Attitude
Gecko Attitude
I love how much detail has been picked up with this photo. He almost seems expressive, don't you think?


Falls at Bassin La Paix
Falls at Bassin La Paix
Two of four waterfalls pouring in to this magnificently picturesque large pool.


Route du Volcan
Route du Volcan
The last few kilometres to Pas de Bellcombe (Piton de la Fornaise) are across this magnificent landscape. This is Route du Volcan - Volcano Route. I almost expected to encounter the Mars Rover!


We arose early - almost an hour before sunrise, so had already descended a couple of hundred metres to the lava field when the sun first appeared. The volcano itself cast a long shadow, keeping us out of the sun for at least another hour. By this time, we were some way up the side of the cone that houses the main crater. The going was relatively difficult - the dry lava underfoot being uneven and unyielding. But the views into the crater were amazing. We were so blessed, too. We were alone some ten to fifteen minutes before anyone else reached the viewpoint. Also, by the time they arrived, the clouds had began to roll in. They had to piece together the overall vista, as clouds rolled in and out and around. We expected to walk back in baking sun. Instead, it was moisture soaked fog. And somehow, we still got back to the car feeling dry and dehydrated. A wonderful experience, though, and still different to other things we have done.

Jo and the Volcano
Jo and the Volcano
Piton de la Fornaise, a very active volcano on Reunion. Reached by trekking 2-3 hours over lava fields. This viewpoint is reached after ascending to the eastern rim.


Smoking!
Smoking!
From the rim, the Dolomieu Crater floor can be viewed, some 350 metres below, smoking and steaming, just to remind observers that it is not dead, just asleep.


Driving along the south eastern coast of the island has you crossing the "Grand Brule". This is the lava field where the spewings of countless eruptions have made their way to the sea. Some are marked - 2001, 1986. The greatest flow is from the 2007 eruption.

Lava Flows in Stained Glass
Lava Flows in Stained Glass
The church in Piton Ste-Rose. In 1977, a lava flow split and went around the church. The stained glass of commemorates this miracle. The church is now know as Notre Dame des Laves.


Driving Across Grand Brule
Driving Across Grand Brule
Older lava flows have significant vegetation growing. This lava field was from 2001.


Rippled and Rolled Lava
Rippled and Rolled Lava
Some of the beautiful forms left when lava flows solidified.


Rodrigues - The "More" of Mauritius

1 to 7 January, 2016 - Mahebourg, Graviers - (Mauritius)



Mauritius, or at least the main island of Mauritius, is more of a staging point for us than a destination in itself. We spent a couple of nights to get a little feel for it all, but then we were on a small plane to Rodrigues.

Rodrigues Island, of around 30,000 people, lies almost 700 km east of the main island. There are 2 or 3 "resorts", but overall, it is very underdeveloped and incredibly underrated. In our eyes, perfect. Sometimes, we had entire beaches to ourselves. Crowded beaches were those with 3 or 4 large families. Being the middle of high season, with public holidays and weekends and close to New Year, there were extended families barbecuing and camping in all sorts of spots. But it never once felt busy!

Snorkelling, sun, beaches, food and drink, and a 26th anniversary slap up lunch. Absolutely perfect.

Lion Mountain
Lion Mountain
Near Mahebourg, Mauritius.


Rodrigues Lagoon
Rodrigues Lagoon
Coming in to land at Rodrigues Island, Mauritius. The lagoon around the island is twice the size of the island itself. Unfortunately, the clouds obscured the peaks of the interior.


Idyllic Beach on Rodrigues
Idyllic Beach on Rodrigues
On the west coast of the island are a series of beaches that can only be reached on foot. Beautiful sand enclosed by cliffs, and the reefs are not far off shore. We walked from St Francois to Graviers (where we are staying), visiting them all. Unfortunately, I stepped on a rock at our second swim, and took a small chunk out of the sole of my foot. Ouch. I had to hobble for a few hours to finish the walk, and the final swim and snorkel was accordingly cancelled :(


Our Outlook
Our Outlook
After a wonderful anniversary lunch in town, where we had well and truly eaten our fill and imbibed a bottle of wine (and a couple of cocktails). All we could manage was to collapse with a late afternoon beer and enjoy our last evening in Rodrigues.


Flying out, we were treated by the pilot to a bit of an aerial tour. Very soon after take-off, he stopped the climb, and rather than turning abruptly to head direct to Mauritius, he did a low-level complete circuit of the island. And it meant so much more to see it that way having completed our visit. We could point out the places we'd been to, identify the beaches where we had swum.

The South-Eastern Beaches
The South-Eastern Beaches
An aerial view of the beaches we had hiked to on the south-east coast of Rodrigues. These lie between St Francois and Graviers, the location of the B&B we were staying at. From the air you can appreciate just how close the reef comes to the coast. The first beach is the "bottle neck". The third one along is where I injured my foot. Sorry, I wrote that more so I would remember, not because I think anyone really cares which beach I hurt my foot on!


Long Stretches of Sand
Long Stretches of Sand
The beaches of St Francois and Cotton Bay.


Coco Island, Rodrigues
Coco Island, Rodrigues
A small island near the edge of the Rodrigues Island lagoon.


Draggin' Ourselves up the Drakensburgs / Would You Like Arse with That?

27 December, 2015 to 1 January, 2016 - Champagne Valley, Giants Castle, Durban - (South Africa)



We borrowed my cousin's car for a few days and headed in to the Drakensburg Mountains. Unfotunately, it was returned bruised and battered. :( We had a horrendous hailstorm. Chunks of ice about one centimetre across. We ran through the weather to move the car under a tree, to little avail as the trees did not slow down the stones very much.

Hail aside, the daily electrical storms were something to behold. Thankfully, only rolling through in the late part of the afternoons, they did not at all prevent us from enjoying a magnificent part of the country. One reasonable day walk near Cathkin Peak, and a small walk to a cave with ancient paintings near Giants Castle.

A Zebra Tries to Steal My Beer!
A Zebra Tries to Steal My Beer!
I step back to take a photo of our outlook to the Drakensburg Mountains, and in the meantime, a zebra sneaks up and investigates my beer. Don't worry, Jo turned in time to stop him getting any.


Ascending in the Drakensburgs
Ascending in the Drakensburgs
Climbing from Champagne Valley to Blind Man's Corner, near the base of Cathkin Peak.


The Peaks Ahead, Our Climb Continues
The Peaks Ahead, Our Climb Continues
Heading towards Cathkin Peak.


Crossing the First Plateau
Crossing the First Plateau
The climbing complete, we were now about 600 metres higher than the car park. A few kilometres of delightful flat walking through the grasses and flowers.


San Cave Art, Drakensburg
San Cave Art, Drakensburg
Ancient art in a cave in the Drakensburgs, near Giant's Castle. The person on the right is a medicine man, jumping on one leg, probably in a trance.


Then, back to Durban for waaaay too much eating and drinking. Ox-tail potjie (see photo), wood-fired pizza, braai, South African wines and beers, caiparinhas and Amarula. All punctuated with some dips in the pool.

Joke of the week has to be the South African request for frozen water. No matter how hard Sharon tries, it sounds like she wants arse in her drink! Did we want arse in ours? There's plenty of arse in the cooler box!

We did get out for New Years Eve, and made a visit to the shark centre for a dissection.

Ox-tail Potjie
Ox-tail Potjie
Wierldly, potjie is pronounced "poy-kee". No matter how you pronounce it, it tastes amazing. It was cooking for about 8 hours on coals. Amazing. Incredible. So tasty, and so tender. The meat just fell away. Thanks, Tony, it was beautiful.


Hammerhead Shark Dissection
Hammerhead Shark Dissection
We went to the shark research centre in Durban. Six times a week, the audio-visual presentation is followed by a shark dissection. Today, it was a hammerhead shark.


Chrissie with Rels in Durbs

23 to 27 December, 2015 - Pietermaritzburg, Durban - (South Africa)




Gallery Interior
Gallery Interior
The main hall of the Tatham Gallery, Pietermaritzburg. Formerly a Supreme Court.


I haven't seen my cousin Sharon for 37 years. And I have not met my aunt Norma or cousin Robert! So, we did feel that asking to crash with them for Christmas might be a little presumptuous. Emails were definitely encouraging, but you still don't really know if you are over stepping a mark.

We felt instantly welcome and knew that this was going to be a Christmas to remember. We ended up being 15 for dinner, with some neighbours and their family joining us. The cheer was spread thick and wide. As expected, there was way too much food. Beautiful meats and veggies, gravies and sauces, pudding and trifle.

I was 9 years old the one and only time I met Sharon. And it was wonderful to pick up so easily again. That's family!

Springbok Shooters
Springbok Shooters
Creme de Menthe and Amarula.


Christmas Day with the Family
Christmas Day with the Family
Back: My cousin Robert, Myself, and Tony. Front: Aunt Norma, Jo, and cousin Sharon. Hilarity supplied by Tammy.


Boxing Day Races, Durban
Boxing Day Races, Durban
I didn't back a winner all day, but Sharon had mixed fortunes. A lot of fun for boxing day, with afternoon very pleasant.


Through Three Countries - Swaziland, South Africa, Lesotho

19 to 24 December, 2015 - Mhlambanyatsi, Golden Gate Highlands National Park, Hlotse, Pietermaritzburg - (South Africa, Swaziland, Lesotho)



We had planned stopping in Swaziland before we knew exactly where we would head after Kruger. So, we had found this magnificent place in the forest south-west of Mbabane. Treated like royalty, it was a little splurge that will be remembered.

Breakfast in Swaziland
Breakfast in Swaziland
We really like saying Swaziland. It has a nice ring to it. This is our breakfast buffet, at the Forester Arms Hotel, South West of Mbane, the capital. An amazing place to stay, and an amazing breakfast, despite the dozens of bees that also thought the breakfast was delightful.


On our way south, on a massive day of driving, we observed a distant storm brewing. We convinced ourselves we would be skirting the worst of it. We watched lightning forking almost continually in the black clouds, and were thankful that we weren't in it. We were wrong. Soon after driving through Harrismith, visibility dropped to 3 or 4 metres. Fearful of having a vehicle rear-end us in the poor conditions, I actually felt safer driving than stopping. The driving rain became sleet, the sleet became hail. The lightning lit up flooded fields and pastures with cows standing in 50 centimetres of water. And just as suddenly, we were driving with clear skies. Slushed ice kept the going slow for a while, but fifteen minutes later, we were on dry roads, the blue was above, and the black storm was a distant blob on the horizon.

Back to nature. Many South Africans have commented that Golden Gate Higlands is their favourite national park. Without any dangerous animals, it is a wonderful park for hiking. We had a cabin with a balcony with a braai. It overlooked a wide plain, with a small waterhole, and we sat in the evenings with a glass of wine or a plate of barbecued ribs, watching the various antelopes and zebras.

Butterfly or Moth?
Butterfly or Moth?
The temptation is to say butterfly, because of the colours, but I wonder if this is not a type of moth, given the way the wings sit when it is at rest?


Golden Gate
Golden Gate
Walking in the Golden Gate Highlands National Park.


We Were On Top of That!
We Were On Top of That!
We walk and clambered and climbed, from the car park, and eventually found ourselves inching to the edge of a marvellous outlook that dropped away suddenly on three sides! Only when we eventually camed down, the other side, did we work out that we had been standing on top of buttress of rock. We were very proud. Golden Gate Highlands National Park.


A short drive from the park had us over another border in mountainous Lesotho. Unfortunately, with time running out, our stay was way too brief.

Over 3000 Metres
Over 3000 Metres
Deep in the mountainous heart of Lesotho, taken from the Mafika-Lisiu Pass, 3000 metres.


Rural Dwellings in Lesotho
Rural Dwellings in Lesotho
On the way down from Mafika-Lisiu Pass.


Animals, Food, and Scenic Outlooks - A Fantastic Introduction to South Africa

12 to 19 December, 2015 - Dullstroom, Graskop, Letaba (Kruger), Orpen (Kruger), Skukuza (Kruger) - (South Africa)



We arrived at Johannesburg early morning, picked up our hire car, pushed aside any thoughts of jetlag, and headed straight out east. Our first destination was Graskop, in the alpine like region of Mpumalanga state. Chosen mainly because it was about the right amount we wanted to drive the first day en-route to Kruger, and because it was near something called the Panorama Route that some random had mentioned on an internet forum I had been scanning.

First Meal in South Africa
First Meal in South Africa
We have been expecting great things from the food in South Africa. And it all got off to a great start. Trout, garlic snails, crumbed fried fetta. This was in Dullstroom, in the heart trout country. A yummy start to our holiday.


The Panorama Route turned out to be wonderful, and being in the area anyway, I would have been upset if we had missed it and saw photos later.

Bourke's Luck Potholes
Bourke's Luck Potholes
This is one of the sights along the Blyde River Canyon. These holes have been worn out by the whirlpools in the water. Both bizarre and beautiful, and magnificent to view from the footbridges over the canyon.


A View Along the Panorama Route
A View Along the Panorama Route
One of the spectacular outlooks along the Panorama Route. This was at a spot near the Three Rondavels, overlooking Blydepoort Dam near the end of the Blyde River Canyon.


So, our time in Kruger begain in the central area of the park, with a couple of nights at the Letaba Rest Camp. Even on our day of arrival, driving in, we saw a lot of wildlife. Within that first two hours, we had seen lions, elephants, giraffe, and numerous antelopes. From our cabin, we could watch the hippos going to the river in the evening. A great start. Although, around Letaba, we were only to see three of the famous big five - lions, elephants, and buffalo.

A Hard-working Dung Beetle
A Hard-working Dung Beetle
We watched this beetle do her thing for quite a while. She wanted the ball of dung up the top of the slope, and everytime she got it near the top, the weight would overcome her and it would roll back down, collecting her on the way, like a cartoon character caught in a giant snowball. Then she would start again. Back legs against the ball, front legs on the ground, and then walking backwards, pushing it all up the slope again. Incredible example of the persistance that stems from innate behaviour.


Cooking a Braai
Cooking a Braai
The braai. The South African barbecue. Every cabin; every campsite; every picnic spot; each has a braai. This was our cabin in the Letaba Rest Camp in Kruger. Just beyond that fence we could watch the animals coming to the river to drink. Mainly hippos and antelopes. What a perfect place for a braai!


Baby Giraffe - Photo 1
Baby Giraffe - Photo 1
A baby giraffe nervously looks over at us. I love how the light has caught its face.


Baby Giraffe - Photo 2
Baby Giraffe - Photo 2
Baby giraffe, staying close to mum.


Midway in the southern part of Kruger is the Orpen Rest Camp. Two nights here gave us another perspective on the park, and we added rhinoceros and leopard to our sightings, rounding off the big five.

A Little Baby Elephant Suckling
A "Little" Baby Elephant Suckling
Compared to the elephants around, of course it is little. You really lose track of how big they are. And when you start using words like "suckling", you can't help but imagine something cute and cuddly.


Impala for Dinner
Impala for Dinner
Jo spotted the leopard while it was sitting on the ground, near the base of the tree. We stopped and watched, and after a few minutes, it stood, stretched, and leapt in to the tree. There, in one of the lower forks, was an impala carcass. Something caught earlier, and dragged off the ground for safe keeping. It seems we had arrived at dinner time.


The Tiniest Rhinoceros in Kruger
The Tiniest Rhinoceros in Kruger
This morning, we found the tiniest Rhinoceros in Kruger National Park. A Rhinoceros Beetle was trapped in our sink when we woke. And a little plug for Alisha's Jamberry Nails, too.


Along the Road...
Along the Road...
Driving through Kruger, it is amazing who you meet just by the roadside.


Our final two nights in the park were in the far south, in Skukuza Rest Camp.

Looking Pleased with Himself
Looking Pleased with Himself
Minutes before taking this photo, we witnessed this leopard having an intimate moment with his lovely lady friend! Some modesty was shown, and they went into some tall grass, making the photography a bit difficult, however, we respect the fact that some animals might be shy about some things. Afterwards, he relaxed in the shade, looking very proud of his conquest.


Early Morning Lions
Early Morning Lions
Probably brothers, these two lions lounged so close for such a long time. They rolled in the sun, they moved a metre or two, they seemed to doze for a bit. Just before we left, they rubbed faces, and then both "plonked" on to their backs, eyes closed, contented, proud, and comfortable in their authority.


A Portrait
A Portrait
Lions are often described as majestic. This face says it all, really.


Getting a Ride
Getting a Ride
Baby gives up trying to keep up on foot, clambering aboard mum for a ride.


Symbiosis
Symbiosis
A bird cleans fleas, ticks, mites from an antelope, just about climbing into its ears to get the juiciest ones.


Steenbok
Steenbok
A female Steenbok. Steenboks are amongst the smallest species of antelopes. They are quite timid, and always look so gentle.


Full Size Rhino
Full Size Rhino
A White Rhinoceros, grazing.


Another Mother and Baby
Another "Mother and Baby"
And yet another baby that doesn't stray far from mum. Adorable.


Loving or Fighting?
Loving or Fighting?
These two elephants were head to head, trunks entwined, pushing and shoving. Were they courting? Was it all part of a long, drawn-out fore-play? Or was it a stand-off? Agression or passion? Our knowledge of elephant behaviour is not sufficient to know. Maybe, some day, somebody will enlighten us.