tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-72472485327196954422024-02-21T04:25:45.089+11:00.... any way the wind blows ...Richard and Jo deMeester.<br>
Some updates from the road.Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.comBlogger203125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-48017709428432156922024-01-23T17:13:00.001+11:002024-01-23T17:13:15.093+11:00A Land of Castles and Forts, Mountains and Wadis, Deserts and Beaches<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">16 to 23 Jan, 2024 - Nakhal, Nizwa, Bahla, Jebel Shams, Al Ayn, Jabrin, Wadi Bani Khalid, Al Ayjah, Sur, Wadi Shab, Muscat - (Oman)</span><br />
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All too quickly, another trip is coming to a close, and another "final" blog entry is written. This one covers the time in the main part of Oman.
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We opted to spend a bit more for the hire car for this part of the trip, getting a vehicle with 4WD capability. Not 100% sure of needing it, I was hesitant to spend the extra. We had no intention of visiting the deep desert sands, so we knew a true 4x4 would not be necessary, but since we were doing some areas with notorious unmade roads, including steep climbs, we felt obliged to dig deeper and cover ourselves. Now, after returning the car and assessing, the short number of kilometres we drove where it was useful would have been successfully driven in a regular car. Not easily nor comfortably, but possible. You know what they say about hindsight.
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We have been observing a local custom. I would be surprised if it was just Omani, but we really don't know if this happens in neighbouring countries. When dining out, we watched the "take away ritual". This involved a customer driving up outside the restaurant and tooting their horn. Someone from the restaurant would then attend to that car. If not quickly, then the little friendly toot is repeated, perhaps as a more pertinent honk. So, the waiter, owner, or maybe one of their children, goes to the most recently arrived vehicle. Sometimes they would be required to run back in to the establishment and return with a menu. Order is taken from the vehicle occupants, which may be just the driver, or may be the whole family. Eventually, a bag or more of food is taken out, and the car leaves. Occasionally it seems the order has been pre-placed, or the driver has left and come back, but this does not appear to be the normal way. While waiting, bored children climb out of car windows or through open sunroofs to entertain themselves. There is often a need for the waiting cars to shuffle around, as they may be double or triple parked.
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Jo and I had the idea of suggesting roller skates to these waitstaff, but the stairs and dirt and rocks would probably make implementation of that idea quite treacherous.
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South-west we left from Muscat airport. Across the plains for the first half day, before abruptly encountering the mountains, climbing and winding over the next days, eventually nearing Oman's highest point of around 3,000 metres. It was cool at night, there, dropping to around 7 degress.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52281598"><img title="Nakhal Fort" alt="Nakhal Fort" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/15/98/52281598.c16b45f6.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Nakhal Fort</strong><br/>19th century fort, overlooking the local date plantations.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52281600"><img title="Inside Nizwa Fort" alt="Inside Nizwa Fort" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/16/00/52281600.755eb88c.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Inside Nizwa Fort</strong><br/>Inside the inner fortifications of Nizwa Fort. This is a 17th century fort, the inner stronghold of a much larger castle. Entrance to the fort was protected with multiple secret trap doors and pitfalls, reinforced doors where boiling date oil could be poured on enemy attackers, and many other impressive defensive components.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52281602"><img title="Nizwa Fort's Destinctive Tower" alt="Nizwa Fort's Destinctive Tower" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/16/02/52281602.83db0eca.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Nizwa Fort's Destinctive Tower</strong><br/>At 40m high, it would make quite the formidable task for any army of that day to consider.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52281604"><img title="Bahla Fort" alt="Bahla Fort" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/16/04/52281604.160f474a.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bahla Fort</strong><br/>One of the largest forts in Oman. Rooms here were generally left empty and unlabelled, allowing the visitor to be creative and hypothesise as one scrambled in and out and around the multitude rooms and the Escher like stairways.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52281606"><img title="Bahla Fort Interior" alt="Bahla Fort Interior" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/16/06/52281606.7809ce00.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bahla Fort Interior</strong><br/>Built and modified over the 12th to 15th centuries. The mud-brick walls, as well as the architecture and layout, looked and felt quite different to the other forts we have visited so far in Oman. Not less refined, but they certainly did not feel as evolved.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52281608"><img title="Wadi Ghul Viewpoint" alt="Wadi Ghul Viewpoint" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/16/08/52281608.c577a40e.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Wadi Ghul Viewpoint</strong><br/>Looking down in to Wadi Ghul from the top of Jebel Shams. This canyon is often called the "Grand Canyon of Oman", and a deserved title it is indeed.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52281610"><img title="A Stop on the Balcony Walk" alt="A Stop on the Balcony Walk" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/16/10/52281610.ef2f6750.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Stop on the Balcony Walk</strong><br/>The balcony walk is a 5-6 km trail that runs in to Wadi Ghul. It is reasonably level, and although narrow in parts, never precipitous. Doing it in the morning meant we basically were in the sun for the majority. This lookout point seems to occasionally operate as a cafe, with two tables, although there was nobody when we came through. It is reasonably near the end (or start, depending whether you need a break early).</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52281612"><img title="Another View From the Balcony Walk" alt="Another View From the Balcony Walk" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/16/12/52281612.52a2e0c6.500.jpg?r2" height="381" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Another View From the Balcony Walk </strong><br/>Deep in Wadi Ghul, Oman's Grand Canyon.</small> <br/> <br/>
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Then east, rapidly loosing altitude, till it was a pleasant 27 degrees by the coast. Circling back to the north, we finished with a coupld of days in Muscat.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52281614"><img title="Beehive Tombs, Al Ayn" alt="Beehive Tombs, Al Ayn" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/16/14/52281614.195e3379.500.jpg?r2" height="94" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Beehive Tombs, Al Ayn</strong><br/>Some of the beehive tombs of Al Ayn, lined along a ridge. Dotted at various sites in the area, they are believed to be between 4000 and 5000 years old.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52283104"><img title="Inside Jabrin Castle" alt="Inside Jabrin Castle" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/31/04/52283104.4f076bac.500.jpg?r2" height="448" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Inside Jabrin Castle</strong><br/>We both felt that Jabrin Castle was our favourite in Oman. The size and layout made for an excellent visit, and a good quantity of information. The furnished rooms, just lovely, and the painted ceilings are especially noteworthy.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52283106"><img title="Culturally Appropriate Signage" alt="Culturally Appropriate Signage" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/31/06/52283106.f36d6ed7.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Culturally Appropriate Signage</strong></small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52283108"><img title="By the Lake, Wadi Bani Khalid" alt="By the Lake, Wadi Bani Khalid" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/31/08/52283108.e98d823e.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>By the Lake, Wadi Bani Khalid</strong><br/>I had read about this location, but when it featured on the plane in Oman Air's in-flight safety video, I was inspired to upgrade it from "maybe" to "must do".</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52283110"><img title="Chai by the Water" alt="Chai by the Water" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/31/10/52283110.9a99b4ca.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Chai by the Water</strong><br/>Although not visible in the shot, in this lake, and further upstream, families swam and played. It was joyful, listening to the chatter and laughter, children squealing with delight, adults calling and joking.
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We didn't swim. Just drank chai and absorbed the atmosphere.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52283112"><img title="Deeper in Wadi Bani Khalid" alt="Deeper in Wadi Bani Khalid" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/31/12/52283112.1605f2f4.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Deeper in Wadi Bani Khalid</strong><br/>Further up the wadi, the rock pools of various sizes were also inhabited by paddlers and swimmers.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52283114"><img title="Hmm, Adulterous Soap" alt="Hmm, Adulterous Soap" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/31/14/52283114.18584f93.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Hmm, Adulterous Soap</strong><br/>A shop sign in the ladies souk in Sur.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52283118"><img title="Wadi Shab" alt="Wadi Shab" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/31/18/52283118.79c3b03a.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="435" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Wadi Shab</strong><br/>Getting close to Muscat, we visited Wadi Shab. It seemed to be the most touristy place we have been in Oman, with many nationalities seemingly represented amongst those heading up. First, there was a boat trip across a smal "lake" from the car park, then on foot, past ancient water channels that are still maintained, modified, and important.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52283120"><img title="On our Walk, Wadi Shab" alt="On our Walk, Wadi Shab" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/31/20/52283120.e902c6ab.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>On our Walk, Wadi Shab</strong></small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52283122"><img title="We Ordered Too Much" alt="We Ordered Too Much" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/31/22/52283122.54b845af.500.jpg?r2" height="413" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>We Ordered Too Much</strong><br/>So, we knew we were ordering more than we needed. We forgot they would automatically give the rice, salad, pita, dahl, and hummus.
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The prawn masala was excellent, but the chicken nashif was out of this world.</small> <br/> <br/>
<br/> <small><strong>Old Muscat Gate</strong><br/>Unusually, Old Muscat is not at the heart of Muscat city. What tends to happen, is the historic heart remains the heart of the city, to some degree or another. A new centre may spring up, but the new city surrounds and engulfs the old city.
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Muscat, though, has its new city along the coast. Kind of bumped against the old city, but then sprawled out away from it for the next 20 or more kilometres.</small> <br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Muscat, Oman23.5880307 58.3828717-4.7222031361788446 23.226621700000003 51.898264536178843 93.53912170000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-3612478789517160062024-01-16T00:56:00.185+11:002024-01-21T01:09:26.139+11:00Man Oman<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">11 to 15 Jan, 2024 - Salalah, Khasab - (Oman)</span><br />
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Our Oman adventure begins in the city of Salalah, right in the south of Oman. The domestic leg to get here saw us climb out of Muscat quite steeply, banking over the mountain range to the west. Soon after, the peaks and troughs on the landscape below gave way to the vast desolation. Not featureless, though, as the dry watercourses and wadis made interesting shapes and patterns in the rocky plateau.
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Our first outing was a drive out the west and north of Salalah. We drove up the switchbacks high above Mughshail beach, before doubling back to stop at the blow holes. The weather today, and tide timing, made them less impressive than their potential, but it was a very pretty spot. We drank amazing ice coffees, and watched a large number of dolphins in the water, not too far from shore.
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We left the coastline and went inland to Wadi Dawkah, home of a Frankincense tree grove. I have been intrigued by the possibility of getting up close to these valuable examples of flora since I started reading about this region. In eras past, the ports here were shipping Frankincense out, and bringing spices through from Berbera, Zanzibar, and India.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52275996"><img title="Oman, From Above" alt="Oman, From Above" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/59/96/52275996.2c35ee39.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Oman, From Above</strong><br/>Flying from Muscat to Salalah. The dry watercourses that have been forged by torrential flows scar the barren landscape.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52275998"><img title="Dromedaries Along the Road" alt="Dromedaries Along the Road" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/59/98/52275998.22e4105e.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Dromedaries Along the Road</strong><br/>Perhaps the greatest threat when driving in Oman. Even on sunny days with good visibility, they can be difficult to spot, and like most animals, can be unpredictable. At night and during poor weather, they are a significant cause of road trauma.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52276000"><img title="Rugged Coastline, Mugshail" alt="Rugged Coastline, Mugshail" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/60/00/52276000.ea3364b4.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Rugged Coastline, Mugshail</strong><br/>Dramatic cliffs as viewed from the Mugshail Blowholes.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52276002"><img title="Not Their Usual Setting" alt="Not Their Usual Setting" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/60/02/52276002.460d7db1.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Not Their Usual Setting</strong><br/>We don't expect to find camels on the beach, but when the desert meets the sea, I guess it's inevitable.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52276004"><img title="Frankincense Tree" alt="Frankincense Tree" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/60/04/52276004.9b64ec69.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Frankincense Tree</strong><br/>Wadi Dawkah, a natural reserve to protect an ancient grove of Frankincense. Even the smallest drop of sap, rubbed between one's fingers, emitted a sweet aroma, not dissimilar to a sweet pine-like fragrance.</small> <br/> <br/>
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Second outing, the following day, had us going east from Salalah. A spring, a wadi, an archaelogical site, and a religious tomb.
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The religious stop was "Job's Tomb" - a prophet for Christians, Jews, and Muslims. A small building contained the unassuming tomb, which is one of a handful of sites around the world where it is claimed he was buried. The most notable aspect of our visit was that we almost missed it, first following some directions that had us at a spring and pools nearby, which apparently are filled with bathers in the busy months. This disappointing site threw us right off, and detective work was needed to ascertain where we had gone wrong.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52277374"><img title="Ayn Razat" alt="Ayn Razat" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/74/52277374.84ba7d07.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ayn Razat</strong><br/>Ayn Razat is a year-round spring near Salalah. A small strip popular with locals, where the water literally gushes from the rocks. The various pools were filled with fish, of many different varieties, while water birds waded around availing themselves of the self-serve buffet.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52277376"><img title="Wadi Darbat" alt="Wadi Darbat" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/76/52277376.deb77f2c.500.jpg?r2" height="163" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Wadi Darbat</strong><br/>Looking down to Wadi Darbat. It really felt like looking down at a scene from Africa, especially if the camels had been giraffes. The water level is low, and as it is now a dry season in Oman. Still, the travellers come to see the lake and waterfalls.
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The lake inside the wadi is the largest natural lake in Oman. That is not saying a lot, as on world standards, it would be considered tiny.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52277378"><img title="Small Waterfalls" alt="Small Waterfalls" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/78/52277378.218c45b2.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Small Waterfalls</strong><br/>In the wet season, the water apparently flows over all these rocks, and then further downstream, runs off the plateau. Occasionally, once every ten years of so, that run off becomes a curtain of water.
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We were actually surprised to see any water flowing, given how dry every thing is. So this lovely scene was a bonus.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52277380"><img title="Camel, In Wadi Darbat" alt="Camel, In Wadi Darbat" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/80/52277380.b8677cd5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Camel, In Wadi Darbat</strong> </small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52277382"><img title="Khor Rori, Oman" alt="Khor Rori, Oman" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/82/52277382.a366eba5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small>Khor Rori, Oman<strong></strong><br/>Looking down from the ancient remains of Khor Rori. This hilltop town had a harbour below, once a critical stop for trade coming out the Red Sea or from North Africa, heeading across to India. At this stop, traders would take on Frankincense.</small> <br/> <br/>
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A very early flight had us at the other extreme of Oman, in Khasab. Khasab is an Omani exclave, isolated from the rest of the country by UAE. Security seemed tight and it felt like there was a lot of military. This turned out to be for a justifiable cause. The sultan was in town. We did not find out for what purpose - maybe to extend a personal welcome?
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52278546"><img title="View with Sultan's Yacht" alt="View with Sultan's Yacht" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/85/46/52278546.cfdd7ad5.500.jpg?r2" height="342" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>View with Sultan's Yacht</strong><br/>We had booked a "king room" at this hotel, and it was actually a small corner suite. We could see the cliffs that come down to the sea on both sides of Khasab, and the complete harbour.
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Docked just opposite was the Sultan's yacht. The space between the road and the mooring had 5 or 6 armoured vehicles, Occasional helicopters circled.
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I have to confess, I felt odd trying to take photos. The soldiers were all on alert, and I felt that opening curtains from such a prime location might already draw attention. So, opening windows or taking photos might invite a full police tactical unit to visit us.
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A little later, walking through town, we came to the main road to find it fully blocked. Soon after, streams of police and military vehicles came, followed by many brand new green four-wheel-drives, followed by a vehicle with the sultan, and then more entourage, and more security. Overhead, helicopters kept a watchful eye on the proceedings. People along the road waved and took photos. We waved and took photos. We got a wave back, too.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52278548"><img title="Khasab Fort" alt="Khasab Fort" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/85/48/52278548.535b5f91.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Khasab Fort</strong><br/>Fort with concise and informative on-site museum. We particularly loved the restored wooden boats in the compound, showing the different styles which had been in use in the area over the last century or so.</small> <br/> <br/>
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Our main reason for coming to Khasab was to do a boat trip, on to the Musandam Fjords. These khors might not be true fjords, but the network of dramatic inlets did make the area feel like Scandinavian coast overtaken by the desert.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52278552"><img title="Jo, Sultana of Richmond" alt="Jo, Sultana of Richmond" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/85/52/52278552.c5d8df81.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo, Sultana of Richmond</strong><br/>After boarding our wooden dhow, we thought we might be waiting for more passengers. However, we soon pushed off, and it was just the two of us. We could swap from shade to sun, snorkel as long as we wanted, opt in and out of stops (which we did opt in for all), There were drinks and fruit available the whole time, and a lunch fit for a Sultan or Sultana.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52278556"><img title="A Dolphin, Alongside our Dhow" alt="A Dolphin, Alongside our Dhow" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/85/56/52278556.a88f14ee.500.jpg?r2" height="282" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Dolphin, Alongside our Dhow</strong><br/>We spotted dolphins at about 5 or 6 locations on our way. When they were near the surface, the captain would put the boat in to high speed and aim towards them. We joined him and the crew member in clapping and whistling. Often, nothing resulted. A few times, the noise and speed of the boat got the dolphins to turn and engage with us. Swimming alongside and darting under the boat to appear again on the other side.
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What do they think of us? This most beautiful interaction which they seem to reap no benefit other than play.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52278554">CLICK FOR VIDEO<br/>Dolphin Play, Alongside our Boat<br/>CLICK FOR VIDEO</a><br/><small><strong>Dolphin Play, Alongside our Boat</strong><br/>
The commentary shows just how excited and happy I was.</small><br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52278558"><img title="On a Ridge Between Two Seas" alt="On a Ridge Between Two Seas" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/85/58/52278558.4055b8ac.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>On a Ridge Between Two Seas</strong><br/>One stop involved a walk and a climb up 400+ steps. This beautiful lookout had two different seas on either side. Gulf of Oman, or Oman Sea. Arabian Gulf, or Persian Gulf. A rewarding climb.
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Meanwhile, men working on the path, making picnic tables and benches, walls, and steps, did the climb carrying bags of cement. Who knows how many times they climb those steps each day.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52278560"><img title="View into the Sun, Gulf of Oman" alt="View into the Sun, Gulf of Oman" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/85/60/52278560.6c44a0e7.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>View into the Sun, Gulf of Oman</strong></small> <br/> <br/>
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On the morning of our flight to Muscat, we used a ride sharing app to find a taxi to the airport. I did find it odd that a civilian in this part of the world would be wearing a shirt with any sort of camouflage print. I think security would be very touchy about things like that. So, I assumed he must be military.
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Check in at this tiny airport with one flight for the day was slow and tedious. The flight was late, but we didn't know that as we were queued up and still without boarding passes ten minutes before schedule. However, we knew everyone queued were on the same flight, so surely we would get through. Suddenly, I hear my name. "Richard!" A cheerful tone, not threatening. I turn to see a soldier patrolling the terminal with a serious automatic weapon, giving me a cheeky little wave. At first I thought he could not be referring to me, and maybe I misheard. How many local people in Khasab would possibly know me? Then, a moment of recognition - our taxi driver had obviously parked and was now performing his duty.
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Salalah, Oman17.0193843 54.110750499999988-11.290849536178847 18.954500499999988 45.329618136178844 89.2670005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-26472210270557069422024-01-11T02:00:00.115+11:002024-01-12T16:31:56.025+11:004500 Years in Tunisia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">6 to 10 Jan, 2024 - Dougga, Elles, Tunis, Carthage, Sidi Bou Said - (Tunisia)</span><br />
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Installment two of our Tunisian blog begins in Dougga, a few hours out of Tunis. We ended up at a moderately upmarket hotel, not by direct choice, but by elimination: there were no other hotels. This was our anniversary night, so it was nice to be somewhere with a nice restaurant attached.
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The next day, we visited Dougga. The wind was very chilly, and the rain came and went, never really getting heavy. This was one of the sights I was most looking forward to. Not so large and extensive as to require a full day investment, but still of great interest with some fascinating remains and excavations. In better weather, I'm sure we would have spent longer.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273266"><img title="Roman Theatre, Dougga" alt="Roman Theatre, Dougga" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/66/52273266.cc47cdb9.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Roman Theatre, Dougga</strong><br/>Capable of seating 3500 people, the theatre was cut in the hill at the Roman city of Dougga. Jo on-stage, for perspective.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273268"><img title="The "Capitol", Dougga" alt="The "Capitol", Dougga" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/68/52273268.8a4a0725.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The "Capitol", Dougga</strong><br/>Part temple, part political, overlooking the Dougga market and forum.</small> <br/> <br/>
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Kind-a in the vicinity, we went to Elles to visit 4500 year old dolmen graves. Still cold and windy.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273280"><img title="One of the Dolmen, Elles" alt="One of the Dolmen, Elles" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/80/52273280.91f9c425.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>One of the Dolmen, Elles</strong><br/>Dolmen are tombs made of slabs of stone laid on top of each others. The dolmen in this area were quite long, with passages and multiple rooms leading off them. These dolmen are over 4500 years old.</small> <br/> <br/>
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Outdoor sites, in the cold wind, with intermittent showers - we were keen to complete the last long drive, getting us to Tunis, where a warm hotel room would be waiting.
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Unfortunately, it was not going to be as simple as that...
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52274538"><img title="The Tale of the Tourists who Drove to Tunis Medina" alt="The Tale of the Tourists who Drove to Tunis Medina" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/45/38/52274538.653d1f59.500.jpg?r2" height="240" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Tale of the Tourists who Drove to Tunis Medina</strong><br/>I am not just deflecting blame, I know this was all the fault of Google Maps navigation. Well, maybe some fault lies with the hotel.
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Driving in to Tunis, well after dark, rain fairly heavy, trying to keep our calm with the nutty displays of local driving. A check of our reservation confirmation listed that the accommodation had parking. So, when Google had a plotted path to the front door, we followed.
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A few turns from a main road, and we were driving along some narrow cobbled streets. We were not too concerned, there were other cars about. But the streets got narrower and the turns it proposed got tighter. At one point, it proposed a turn I knew we could not do successfully in the car, little as it was. So Google gave us an alternative.
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I was convinced this must be the route - narrow, yes, but confidently marked. I had conviction, and we folded the mirrors in and progressed carefully... until a man shouted and stopped us. Where were we going? He warned us of the stairs coming ahead.
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So, we had to back out. This took about 15 minutes, with mirrors folded, and 3 or 4 locals guiding us in the rain.
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The whole saga felt like a cross between James Bond and the Griswalds.
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We returned on foot, the following day, to take photos. Hmm, even in daylight, I might have attempted the manoeuvre. But rain or shine, day or night, we were not going to get our little Kia hire car down those stairs.
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Our final days were spent in and around Tunis. Oh, and we were very happy to get the hire car returned, unscathed.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273296"><img title="Roman Baths, Overlooking the Mediterranean" alt="Roman Baths, Overlooking the Mediterranean" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/96/52273296.f6744011.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Roman Baths, Overlooking the Mediterranean</strong><br/>The remains of the Baths of Antoninus in Carthage, near Tunis. </small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273298"><img title="Mosaic Slabs" alt="Mosaic Slabs" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/98/52273298.483fca86.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Mosaic Slabs</strong><br/>At the Roman Villas site in Carthage, scores of mosaic slabs are laying about. We assume they are waiting for a more permanent home, given that they were none-too-shabby! <br/>
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They did appear very random and forgotten. Not sure if they would notice one or two missing...</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273300"><img title="Sidi Bou Said" alt="Sidi Bou Said" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/33/00/52273300.e7d01ec9.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Sidi Bou Said</strong><br/>Sidi Bou Said is a beachside area, not too far from Tunis. It is the epitome of Mediterranean towns, with white washed walls contrasted with blue doors and shutters. Largely pedestrianised and an easy visit.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273302"><img title="It Just Landed on My Head" alt="It Just Landed on My Head" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/33/02/52273302.86e651d5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>It Just Landed on My Head</strong><br/>OK, not really, but a photo had to be had.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273772"><img title="Cat, Moped, Tunis Medina" alt="Cat, Moped, Tunis Medina" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/37/72/52273772.74157d34.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Cat, Moped, Tunis Medina</strong><br/>All through the country, we have seen cats sitting in cute perches. Peering out windows, on ledges, sitting in boxes (as cats are want to do) or up on bar stools. Any where they can find to stay out from under-foot.
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I thought this nonchalant feline, watching the medina busy-ness,a stand out example of such behaviour.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273774"><img title="Mosaic Lined Baptismal" alt="Mosaic Lined Baptismal" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/37/74/52273774.b9ff3024.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Mosaic Lined Baptismal</strong><br/>A 4th or 5th century baptismal, beautifully lined with mosaic tiles, pictures, patterns, and inscriptions. Bardo Museum in Tunis.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273776"><img title="Bardo Museum, Tunis" alt="Bardo Museum, Tunis" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/37/76/52273776.2f5cbfa7.500.jpg?r2" height="166" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bardo Museum, Tunis</strong><br/>With one of the world's largest collections of mosaics, the Bardo struggles to find space to display the wondrous pieces. There is a combination of thematic presentation, and a general chronological progression as one wanders through (assuming one starts at the beginning, which Jo tends not to do),
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In the end, there are some examples so significant and so large, that presentation space has obviously been specifically designed and modified to hold it.</small> <br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Tunis, Tunisia36.8064948 10.18153168.4962609638211575 -24.9747184 65.116728636178848 45.3377816tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-86985637460567130872024-01-07T07:00:00.298+11:002024-01-11T12:59:21.183+11:00Help Us Obi-Five Kenobi<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2 to 6 Jan, 2024 - Monastir, Sousse, El Djem, Matmata, Chenini, Tatooine, Tozeur - (Tunisia)</span><br />
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Rental car from airport, and out in to the chaos of Tunis. Quickly, it becomes apparent, lane markings on roads, even on express arterials, are not even treated as suggestions or guides. They are blatantly ignored. The number of lanes depends on the width of the vehicles negotiating at that moment. Extra skilled drivers seem to find a way to squeeze one more in, but the fluidity of that number, when trucks, buses, or tractors get involved, means drivers are forever on their toes. Assertiveness is imperative. Without it, you are quickly lost, becoming a lonely obstruction for other drivers to vent at as they nudge around you.
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But once out of the capital, on the divided toll roads, some order returns. Free of speed humps, animals, and pedestrians, smooth and well maintained, the accelerator goes down and the kilometres tick over as quickly as anywhere else in the world, if not quicker...
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As the sun sets, and we venture back on to secondary roads, especially after dark, all eyes peeled again. The biggest dangers are the incredible speed humps that come in 2s and 3s. Once upon a time, they may have been marked. There is evidence of very faded yellow triangles painted on some. There are some speed hump signs still vertical, but many are bent over, faded, or entirely gone. So, we just have to learn where to expect them, and watch the vehicles in front or oncoming. Some of these humps are so significant, they need naming. Ears popped as we dealt with the differential in altitude going over them. So, to encounter any of these black, unmarked, behemoth humps at a speed greater than 15 km/h leaves one wondering if the car suspension is still intact, or the contents of the boot may have bounced out.
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Day 1 - airport to Sousse, going first to Monastir. Having that extra time in the afternoon, we worked out we wanted to see something significant before checking in, and overshooting to Monastir was the right amount before sunset.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52271298"><img title="Inside Ribat of Harthouma" alt="Inside Ribat of Harthouma" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/12/98/52271298.c54e7f9d.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Inside Ribat of Harthouma</strong><br/>Landmark tower inside the Monastir's beautiful ribat. A ribat is the name given to the small muslim forts that were built on the frontiers during muslim expansion in to north Africa.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52271300"><img title=""Life of Brian" Backdrop" alt=""Life of Brian" Backdrop" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/13/00/52271300.ab30918a.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>"Life of Brian" Backdrop</strong><br/>Shooting location used by Monty Python. Inside Ribat Harthouma.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52271302"><img title="Our First Stop in Tunisia" alt="Our First Stop in Tunisia" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/13/02/52271302.ec451d99.500.jpg?r2" height="185" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Our First Stop in Tunisia</strong><br/>Late sun sends long shadows of palms against the walls of the ribat in Monastir.</small> <br/> <br/>
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On from Sousse, heading south, stopping at El Djem. Again, using the very cheap but well maintained toll roads, the distances are quickly covered.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52271526"><img title="One Entrance" alt="One Entrance" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/15/26/52271526.f548de09.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>One Entrance</strong><br/>Arches upon arches upon arches.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52271528"><img title="El Djem - Third Largest Roman Amphitheatre" alt="El Djem - Third Largest Roman Amphitheatre" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/15/28/52271528.2ceedecd.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a> <br/> <small><strong>El Djem - Third Largest Roman Amphitheatre</strong><br/></small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52271530"><img title="Picturesque and Evocative" alt="Picturesque and Evocative" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/15/30/52271530.49c212ea.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Picturesque and Evocative</strong><br/>Exploring the many layers of what remains of the 3rd century amphitheatre of El Djem.</small> <br/> <br/>
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We had trouble contacting the hotel we thought we might try. The website seemed to have been hacked and hijacked, they did not answer our emails, and were not on any booking sites. Given it would also be a diversion of almost two hours if they were now closed, we almost changed our minds, but on a whim, headed to the town of Matmata. The hotel was there, open, and thus began our little circuit of Star Wars related locations.
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We are not fanatical by any definition. Neither Jo nor myself are sure what proportion of any of episodes 1, 2, 3, 7, 8, or 9 we have seen. Bits and pieces here and there. But the original 3 were from our era, and particularly the first one, episode 4, we know well, and that is the one which had a lot filmed here. Less CGI, less studio work, and more on location filming. And George Lucas and the Star Wars franchise left quite the legacy for Tunisia.
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Hotel Sidi Idriss was our stop, known as the Star Wars Hotel now. It was a hotel before that time, but now, it leverages that connection to great effect. It is possible and inexpensive to stay there, but many visitors stop in for a drink or meal while passing through. We did like being overnight guests, despite the simplicity of the accommodation.
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The following day we went from location to location, many would have been interesting without any film connection, but the connection means greater effort on restoration and preservation of these sights.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52272202"><img title="Princess Leia Room" alt="Princess Leia Room" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/22/02/52272202.5c52f4e1.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Princess Leia Room</strong><br/>We stayed at Hotel Sidi Idriss, Matmata. Each room in the hotel was named after a character from Star Wars, or a significant name associated with the franchise.
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In actual fact, the hotel was already a hotel when chosen to be used in filming. A Berber village, and troglodyte cave structure, it would have been a fascinating stay, even without any movie association.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52272206"><img title="The Lars Dining Room of Star Wars" alt="The Lars Dining Room of Star Wars" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/22/06/52272206.8d58e677.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Lars Dining Room of Star Wars</strong><br/>This hotel in Matmata, Tunisisa, was the filming location for Star Wars, episode 4. It was used for inside shots of the Lars Homestead, Luke's uncle and aunt.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52272208"><img title="Young Luke Skywalker Peered Over..." alt="Young Luke Skywalker Peered Over..." src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/22/08/52272208.e66590dc.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Young Luke Skywalker Peered Over...</strong><br/>We watched the scene from Star Wars, Episode 4, A New Hope. Just to familiarise ourselves with the scene, again. And then in the morning, worked out this is where Luke peers down to his aunt.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52272210"><img title="Ksar Hallouf" alt="Ksar Hallouf" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/22/10/52272210.22ba0994.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ksar Hallouf</strong><br/>Restored 13th century granaries, used to film slave quarters scenes for Star Wars Episode 1: The Phantom Menace.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52272212"><img title="Ksar Hadada, Now a Hotel" alt="Ksar Hadada, Now a Hotel" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/22/12/52272212.79e233d9.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ksar Hadada, Now a Hotel</strong><br/>While many of the old structures are bare and open, many are converted to rooms of varying levels of comfort.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52272214"><img title="Mos Espa Slave Quarters: Episode 1" alt="Mos Espa Slave Quarters: Episode 1" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/22/14/52272214.c1423cca.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Mos Espa Slave Quarters: Episode 1</strong><br/>Another Star Wars film location.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52272230"><img title="Ksar Ouled Soltane" alt="Ksar Ouled Soltane" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/22/30/52272230.146dd4f1.500.jpg?r2" height="416" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ksar Ouled Soltane</strong><br/>Berber granaries.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52272232"><img title="More Star Wars" alt="More Star Wars" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/22/32/52272232.98d1844e.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>More Star Wars</strong><br/>The third Ksar in Tunisia used in filming slave quarter scenes for Star Wars Episode 1, The Phantom Menace.</small> <br/> <br/>
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Stops were made at locations unassociated with movies, too.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52272234"><img title="Ksar Beni Bakra" alt="Ksar Beni Bakra" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/22/34/52272234.f5d0be3c.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ksar Beni Bakra</strong><br/>Not Star Wars connected. The desolate and largely unrestored hilltop ksar was ours alone for the full time we clambered through it.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52272236"><img title="Setting Sun on Chenini" alt="Setting Sun on Chenini" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/22/36/52272236.df7919f5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Setting Sun on Chenini</strong><br/>We got to Chenini in the late afternoon, and wandered quite aimlessly till a bit past sunset. More than anything, the rapidly dropping temperature encouraged us to finish up.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273200"><img title="Tawfik, Newly Friended" alt="Tawfik, Newly Friended" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/00/52273200.c3d5a2ea.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Tawfik, Newly Friended</strong><br/>After driving hours across the desolate nothingness, we reached the town of Douze. Perfect timing for a break.
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Tawfik's little shop was chosen for a bite. A dancer and former Michael Jackson impersonator, he spoke good English and looked after our food needs with a couple of giant wraps.
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We left him with a clip on koala to remember us by.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273202"><img title="Crossing Chott el Djerid" alt="Crossing Chott el Djerid" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/02/52273202.e750c71b.500.jpg?r2" height="90" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Crossing Chott el Djerid</strong><br/>The road crosses the narrowest point of the salt flat, Chott el Djerid. Barren and featureless, almost horizon to horizon.</small> <br/> <br/>
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By now, day five of our circuit, we were working our way back north in the western part of Tunisia. Not far from the Algerian border, but more significantly, skirting around the fringes of the Sahara. Long straight strips of tarmac connecting oasis towns full of date plantations. When the wind whipped up, the swirls of sand became long fingers over the road, sometimes obscuring it completely. Getting in or out filled the inside of the car with a gritty cloud, and by the evening, we felt quite clogged up with nostrils and the corners of our eyes quite grainy. Even our mouths, with occasional crunching sensations between our teeth.
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The men walking in these conditions had their peaked hoods pulled over, their robes wrapped tight to give as much protection as possible. The costume designers must have seen these, and known these practices, and extended it in to the Star Wars movies. "Look there, Obi-wan Kenobi" one of us would indicate. "Oh another over there," the other would reply. Soon we started numbering them. "That must be Obi-two Kenobi". "Obi-three Kenobi, now". We sort of gave up after Obi-twelve Kenobi...
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273204"><img title="Lars Homestead" alt="Lars Homestead" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/04/52273204.3d3ab0cc.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Lars Homestead</strong><br/>The exterior of the Star Wars Lars Homestead. Just out there, on the salt flat. Follow the tracks left by other vehicles trekking out here. There was one unattended souvenir stall, with a plate of money, working on an honesty system.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273206"><img title="The Star Wars Town of Mos Espa" alt="The Star Wars Town of Mos Espa" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/06/52273206.ed7d5dd7.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Star Wars Town of Mos Espa</strong><br/>The buildings are all fake, but holding up surprisingly well in the desert winds, considering they were built for Star Wars Episode 4.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273208"><img title="Mos Espa" alt="Mos Espa" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/08/52273208.fcf720bd.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small>Mos Espa<strong></strong><br/>This building did not even have an inside. The whole "town" was just three small streets, two intersections, and about 20 or so empty shell buildings.
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And a lot of sand.
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And a lot of souvenir stalls. </small> <br/> <br/>
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Heading back close to Tunis, day of our 34th anniversary, seems like a good time to break the Tunisia blog.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273210"><img title="Our Coffee Stop" alt="Our Coffee Stop" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/10/52273210.911ad372.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Our Coffee Stop</strong><br/>It was a very big day of driving, after making our two morning stops. We allowed ourselves a break for coffee, and probably more importantly, a toilet.
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We found this large, quite open, building with a sign for coffee. We worked out they had two things available. Coffee, from a state of the cafe style espresso machine, and water pipes.
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We had to take our own chairs from the stack, find and move a plastic table to sit at, and there we drank our 50 cent coffees.
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Meanwhile, those seated around the other two tables barely looked up, as the men seemed quite engrossed in their card games. Good news when smoking a water pipe, you don't even need to use your hands. You can tuck the pip under your arm and bubble away, leaving your hands free to deal with the cards.</small> <br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/52273212"><img title="A Surprise Windmill" alt="A Surprise Windmill" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/12/52273212.c3667ef8.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Surprise Windmill</strong><br/>Winding our way across the back roads of Tunisia, we came across the unexpected sight of a very European looking windmill.
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I just loved how this came out in the light, looking almost like a painting.</small> <br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Tozeur, Tunisia33.918534 8.12293295.6083001638211556 -27.033317099999998 62.228767836178847 43.2791829tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-43982662830549854572022-10-15T05:16:00.001+11:002022-10-15T05:16:17.329+11:00Hand On Heart - Last Uzbek Days<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">11 to 14 Oct, 2022 - Tashkent - (Uzbekistan)</span><br />
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Our final blog entry for this trip (which, depending how you measure, has been 6 weeks in Central Asia, or 21 months since we left Australia). Currently, we're in transit at Istanbul airport, which is pretty much totally the wrong direction from Tashkent to anywhere in Australia, but the flight options out of Central Asia are not bountiful when heading to our Great Southern Land.<br/>
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So, the end of the trip was very low key back in Tashkent. Some great meals, a few sights, a self created tour visiting many metro statons, and some time to repack our bags. Also, we needed a bit more time each day as Jo had a couple of job interviews to attend, via Zoom.<br/>
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The final story, before the final pictures, is the beautiful gesture that accompanies a greeting or a thank you. Placing the right hand over your heart as you say hello, and especially when thanking someone, is an extra sign of respect. The best part is, that even works when you don't say anything. A young boy, around 8 or 10, riding his bicycle past us smiled, so we smiled and waved back. He did not say a word, but just put his hand on his heart as he continued past. It was so lovely and touching, and an exceptionally welcoming sign. "Hand on heart" now has a new meaning for us.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621746"><img title="May Peace Prevail on Earth" alt="May Peace Prevail on Earth" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/46/51621746.9bae9466.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>May Peace Prevail on Earth</strong><br/> Japanese and German POW graves in Tashkent. Before coming here, and reading up about this part of history, we did not know that after the war, these people were not allowed to return directly to their homes and families. Despite being the "losers" in the war, we assumed that once over, surrender signed, repatriation of prisoners to their homes would have been a human right. So, for us, visiting here, and remembering that these people died, still as prisoners, AFTER the war, was both sobering and enlightening. They were required to stay for many years, and to help with the rebuilding efforts. The photo is from the small Japanese section. There are a dozen or so Japanese POW cemeteries around Uzbekistan. Nearby was a German section, which was smaller again.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621748"><img title="Monument of Courage Earthquake Memorial" alt="Monument of Courage Earthquake Memorial" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/48/51621748.aafa7a46.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Monument of Courage Earthquake Memorial</strong><br/> This is translated as "Monument of Courage Earthquake Memorial". In 1966, Tashkent was largely flattened by an earthquake, which although not terribly strong, was destructive due to its shallow nature and the fact that the epicentre was right under the city. The death toll was not incredibly high, but there were hundreds of thousands rendered homeless. The cracked stone with date and time are intriguing and say something. That is why I chose to include the photo. The statue itself is not be related to the earthquake itself - just striving too hard to be an acceptable Socialist artwork from Soviet times. And the images behind it also seemed rather random. To me it was odd, and explains why the translation calls it a "monument", with "memorial" almost tacked on as an afterthought. I found it more confusing than it should have been, and therefore less moving than I had anticipated.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621750"><img title="A Toast to the Host" alt="A Toast to the Host" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/50/51621750.d9df6371.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Toast to the Host</strong><br/> Back in Tashkent, and back with Caroline. A wonderful home for us to crash at while in the Uzbek capital. So chill and stress-free to stay with her. Tonight's dinner is Georgian, with double cheese kachapuri , eggplant and walnut rolls, and a bottle of red to get us started.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621752"><img title="Watchwoman - Š”ŃŠ¾ŃŠ¾Š¶ŠøŃ
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621754"><img title="Homeless Fire Victims" alt="Homeless Fire Victims" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/54/51621754.75bbb54d.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Homeless Fire Victims</strong><br/> Tragedy, eloquently captured on canvas.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621756"><img title="Chilonzor" alt="Chilonzor" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/56/51621756.df0cca07.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Chilonzor</strong><br/> Our self created Tashkent metro tour began at Chilonzor. Grand light fittings, and many beautiful panels depicting life in Uzbekistan.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621758"><img title="Yunus Rajabiy" alt="Yunus Rajabiy" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/58/51621758.82c53d13.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Yunus Rajabiy</strong><br/> Yunus Rajabiy is an interchange station in the Tashkent metro system. The steps from the other line come down mid platform, allowing appreciation of the tall hall, its columns and light fittings.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621760"><img title="Bodomzor" alt="Bodomzor" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/60/51621760.14fe4f57.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bodomzor</strong><br/> The platform at Bodomzor metro station had these great light fittings, reminiscent of 1960s bar stools. </small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621762"><img title="Mustakilik Maydoni" alt="Mustakilik Maydoni" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/62/51621762.76675fcf.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Mustakilik Maydoni</strong><br/> We split our Tashkent metro exploring over two days. This elegant platform is where we finished on day one, near Independence Square. Mustakilik Maydoni.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621764"><img title="Bunyodkor" alt="Bunyodkor" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/64/51621764.35e6e999.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bunyodkor</strong><br/> Bunyodkor, formerly Khalqiar Dustligi. This panel with pomegranates stood out. This station was the closest to Caroline's apartment, and where we began day 2 on the Tashkent metro.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621766"><img title="Pakhtakor" alt="Pakhtakor" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/66/51621766.4b8886ea.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Pakhtakor</strong><br/> Pakhtakor is another interchange station. The tiling here seems to mimic a fabric, more than a traditional tiling pattern.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621768"><img title="Alisher Navoi" alt="Alisher Navoi" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/68/51621768.2c797786.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Alisher Navoi</strong><br/> Alisher Navoi is the partner interchange station to Pakhtakor. Rows of beautifully patterned domed ceilings\, over the tracks and over the platform.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621770"><img title="Uzbekistan" alt="Uzbekistan" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/70/51621770.8cc8b327.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Uzbekistan</strong><br/> Uzbekistan station was not a planned stop. When the train pulled up, we decided to hop out and wait for the next one. The giant tulip-like lamps were the standout feature.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51621772"><img title="Kosmonavtlar" alt="Kosmonavtlar" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/72/51621772.1a58b5b4.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Kosmonavtlar</strong><br/> Well, the best was saved for last. Kosmonavtlar, with panels celebrating cosmonauts. Unexpectedly, the panels were quite human, almost soft, and just a touch playful. Not at all what we anticipated from a Soviet era creation. It was a fine end to our home-made Tashkent Metro expore.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Tashkent, Uzbekistan41.2994958 69.240073412.989261963821157 34.0838234 69.609729636178855 104.3963234tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-59066854054445304422022-10-11T20:21:00.180+11:002022-10-13T23:54:51.795+11:00Karakalpakstan Republic<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">8 to 11 Oct, 2022 - Nukus, Moynaq - (Uzbekistan)</span><br />
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In the western part of Uzbekistan is the large and sparsely populated Republic of Karakalpakstan. It is a largely self governing and significantly autonomous region, but it lacks the right to secede. The capital of this Republic of around 2 million is Nukus, with a bit of an outpost feeling to it. Relatively low density population, dry and dusty, absence of high rise, and the long drive through barren flat landscapes to get there. The apparent reality for Karakalpakstan is that it is a mineral rich area of the country, but it is the poorest.<br/>
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The residents, though, seem proud. We chatted to a few, and they definitely identify as Karakalpak, not as Uzbek. Some of the online bits we read highlighted the contentious nature of the relationship - from both perspectives the opinions are strongly held.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51618950"><img title="Soviet Avant-Garde" alt="Soviet Avant-Garde" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/89/50/51618950.0200357d.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Soviet Avant-Garde</strong><br/> The Savitsky Collection, from what I gather, contains more than 80,000 artworks, most banned or frowned upon during the Soviet times. Especially during Stalin's time at the helm of the USSR, the only acceptable art form was "socialist realism" - art which showed communism in a positive way, showed ideal citizens living and working for the common good, and always showed an optimistic present and future. Strength, health, work, and benefits should be features of the art. In a little corner of the Union, in the desert of current Karakalpakstan Repubilc (ostensibly part of Uzbekistan), Savitsky gathered together his substantial collection of controversial art. Creators of these works were likely to suffer persecution and anonymity for their efforts. Far from the watchful eye of Moscow, and with good rapport with the local community, he even got support to create spaces to exhibit these works, which were taboo in the rest of the USSR. It is now considered one of the great collections of works from Soviet artists, most who may have remained anonymous had Savitsky not gathered and protected them.</small><br/> <br/>
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A few hundred kilometres north of Nukus is the former fishing port of Moynaq. Moynaq's fall, and the disappearance of the Aral Sea, is a minor parallel with what has happened to the whole Karakalpakstan Republic. Elsewhere, the necessary inputs are being syphoned and drained off, leaving little to flow here, resulting in a gradual but inevitable dwindling and withering. Not just the water, and not just financial, but it seems this corner of the world is struggling to make ends meet with leftovers.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51618952"><img title="Rusting Ship, and No Water" alt="Rusting Ship, and No Water" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/89/52/51618952.2568a4c2.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Rusting Ship, and No Water</strong><br/> Scores of kilometres, 80 or more, from the current shoreline of the Aral Sea. Moynaq was a fishing village in the 1950s and 60s, canning tonnes of fish every day. Over the decades, the Soviet agricultural developments started overusing the water from the feeder rivers. Primarily cotton, but it seemed too easy to keep diverting more and more water to irrigate dry and arid lands, not realising the long term consequences. Now, somewhere between 80% and 90% of the original water sources have disappeared. The sea is now less than 20% of its early 20th century size. Increased salinity means fish struggle to live in what remains. And these skip skeletons decay in the sun and sand as a stark monument to the sea which is gone, and will likely never return.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51618954"><img title="The Ship Graveyard" alt="The Ship Graveyard" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/89/54/51618954.0308b970.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Ship Graveyard</strong><br/> This was the only wooden boat that we saw. The timber was deteriorating fast. Not much was left of the deck, other than rows of rusting bolts with no planks left underneath. But a sizeable boat it still was.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51618956"><img title="Truly a Ship" alt="Truly a Ship" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/89/56/51618956.73e798f5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Truly a Ship</strong><br/> Many of these were boats, but some of them, truly are small ships. There was something so powerful seeing these decaying hulks, so at odds with their purpose and function.</small><br/> <br/>
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I want to finish with some observations about driving and cars, right across both parts of Uzbekistan, as well as Kazakhstan. Firstly, totally unpredictably, the most represented brand of car on the roads is Chevrolet. I have received no explanation as to how or why this is the case. Secondly, not unexpectedly, the cars are for the most part, white. Maybe 85% white, about 10% black, maybe 4% grey, and about 1 in every 100 cars is another colour. Our taxi will be white? Oh yes, what a surprise.<br/>
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Moreso here than in Kazakhstan, but the majority of vehicles use methane. Methane stations line the highways. They are characterised by concrete walls between the fuelling bays, and there is an absolute prohibition on passengers in cars while refilling, both pointers to the increased volatility while pumping the gas. Some trucks and buses drive with a row of gas cylinders on their roofs or behind their cabs, looking like a row of missiles on a fighter jet.<br/>
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Drivers here seem to have an aversion to wearing their seatbelts. On the long stretches of the highways, most of our drivers would not bother, but as they approached town, or a checkpoint, reach over and pull it on. As we exited through, the police check area, they slipped instantly out of their belts.<br/>
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Finally, the issue of speed. In Uzbekistan we had a couple of drivers who drove at sane speeds, most drove at insane speeds, but at least showed some control about tailgating and passing, and a few nuts who had us fearing for our lives. Uzbek highways, though, are practically lined with cameras. The co-existance of the speeding behaviour and large number of detection devices is made possible by detectors. Some drivers with multiple, but most drivers with at least one. On the dashboard, every now and then, a warning sound would emit, or a digital voice in Russian (with one or two understandable words, either "camera" or "radar"). Our driver would snap on his hazard lights to avoid having the speeding driver behind running into our tail, and brake quite hard till, so we were doing half the speed now, and we would crawl through the speed trap. Once in the clear, as quickly as they could take off their seatbelt, we could be back at the prior speed again.<br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Nukus, Uzbekistan42.461891 59.616631214.151657163821156 24.4603812 70.772124836178847 94.7728812tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-35012057585126948022022-10-10T23:52:00.000+11:002022-10-10T23:52:04.587+11:00Khiva Little, Khiva Lot, Exploring Ichon-Qala<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">6 to 8 Oct, 2022 - Khiva - (Uzbekistan)</span><br />
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We chose to use the train to get to Khiva, since it is connected with Bukhara by multiple services a day. Late booking again limited our choices, and we ended up on an overnighter in the general sleeper, which was comfortable enough, and travelled at a pretty good time (departing close to midnight, arriving 8 am, with one stop around 7 in Urgench). There was another train at a similar time, going the other direction, and the lack of signage meant that, despite checking, we still went to sleep wondering what would happen if we woke up and found we had travelled 8 hours in the wrong direction. Not a really viable possibility, but still, a part of me was quite relieved to wake up in the right place. <br/>
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A friend had rated Khiva as her favourite place in Central Asia when she had visited, not too long ago. It did not disappoint. It was beautiful. My criticism is that it felt a little too perfect - the streets of the old town had plenty of stalls with art and textiles, but there was a distinct lack of regular businesses - minimarkets, barbers, phone shops - hardly anything that a resident would need. The sights were close together, well maintained, and development controlled. Modern additions were disguised (airconditioners behind wooden screens, no antennae, no overhead wiring). Lots of guesthouses and hotels (generally beautiful and well blended), a few (maybe not enough) restaurants and cafes, and way too many souvenier sellers. Everything perfect for a visitor, but it struggled to feel like a lived in city.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51612558"><img title="Morning Approach to Khiva" alt="Morning Approach to Khiva" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/58/51612558.cc40af38.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Morning Approach to Khiva</strong><br/> We came on the overnight train from Bukhara, arriving at the very respectable time of 8 a.m. Khiva train station is east of the old centre, known as Ichon-Qala. So our pleasant walk to town accompanied the growing light on the walls, minarets, and domes.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51612560"><img title="Jo and the Towering Islom Hoja Minaret" alt="Jo and the Towering Islom Hoja Minaret" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/60/51612560.88b16181.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="200" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo and the Towering Islom Hoja Minaret</strong><br/> Reminiscent of a light house, this is Uzbekistan's tallest. It is also the most recent built Islamic monument in Ichon-Qala, at a very young 112 years old.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51612562"><img title="Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum" alt="Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/62/51612562.96074f31.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum</strong><br/> Distinguished telework in the mausoleum of Khiva's patron saint, a 13th century poet, philosopher, and wrestler. Mulpiple pilgrims chose to ignore the signs asking visitors to not bow to the tombs, or kiss them, but nobody seemed interested in enforcing the posted requests. Thankfully there were no attempts to carry out the equally prohibited act of animal sacrifice.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51612564"><img title="Wall Burials" alt="Wall Burials" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/64/51612564.53d42a3b.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Wall Burials</strong><br/> I don't know if it was law or superstition, but there was a time when anyone who died in the city had to be buried within the walls, and if a person were to perish while away, their body could not be brought in. These graves along the walls were probably for people who were supposed to rest within, but they met their demise while away, so this was the closest burial spot that could be used.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51612566"><img title="Atmospheric Juma Mosque" alt="Atmospheric Juma Mosque" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/66/51612566.d9282fdd.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Atmospheric Juma Mosque</strong><br/> Hundreds of wooden pillars in the cool dark interior of this Khiva mosque create a calming and reflective mood. Some of the columns have come from the earliest mosque on this site, making them over 1000 years old.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51612568"><img title="Ichon-Qala Bathes in Late Afternoon Light" alt="Ichon-Qala Bathes in Late Afternoon Light" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/68/51612568.d38fea75.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ichon-Qala Bathes in Late Afternoon Light</strong><br/> At the western end of town, from the watchtower in the old inner fortress.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51612570"><img title="Full Moon and Kalta Minor" alt="Full Moon and Kalta Minor" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/70/51612570.6ad10ee6.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Full Moon and Kalta Minor</strong><br/> The squat Kalta Minor Minaret was destined to be much taller. The death of the sponsor meant work stopped, and the project never resumed.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-88008219004589314452022-10-06T21:09:00.001+11:002022-10-06T21:09:28.721+11:00Plov Sofi and Homemade Osh<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2 to 6 Oct, 2022 - Bukhara - (Uzbekistan)</span><br />
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Bukhara, another beautiful historic city in Uzbekistan. While the trip from Termez was a relatively long 6 or so hours, having a few nights gave us opportunity to recover and chill. We stayed in a guesthouse which was formerly a guesthouse - actually a 19th century caravansaray, with an atmospheric octagonal inner courtyard.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608116"><img title="Walls of the "Ark", Bukharaās Fortress" alt="Walls of the "Ark", Bukharaās Fortress" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/16/51608116.551f68d7.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Walls of the āArkā, Bukharaās Fortress</strong><br/> Greatly damaged when the Soviets took Bukhara, the Ark is still undergoing renovations. Built and expanded over many centuries, it became the compound for the palace, until the decision was made to absorb Bukhara in to the USSR.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608120"><img title="Entrance to the Ark" alt="Entrance to the Ark" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/20/51608120.3ed3030a.500.jpg?r2" height="404" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Entrance to the Ark</strong><br/> The western entrance is the only entrance left to this fortress.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608128"><img title="Ismail Samoni Mausoleum" alt="Ismail Samoni Mausoleum" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/28/51608128.6e061222.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ismail Samoni Mausoleum</strong><br/> Beautiful terracotta brickwork, where even the shadows come to life, bringing depth and interest to the exterior.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608136"><img title="Looking out from Kalon Mosque" alt="Looking out from Kalon Mosque" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/36/51608136.234fe520.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Looking out from Kalon Mosque</strong><br/> Taken from in the grounds of the Kalon Mosque, Bukhara. The Kalon Minaret, a beautiful 12th century tower, is clearly visible, and to the left is one dome from Mir-i-Arab Madrasa.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608138"><img title="Breakfast at our Caravansary Hotel" alt="Breakfast at our Caravansary Hotel" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/38/51608138.dd739aaf.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Breakfast at our Caravansary Hotel</strong><br/> Our hotel is a 19th century caravansary, with a cute octagonal inner courtyard.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608140"><img title="Indian Inspired Chor Minor Madrassah" alt="Indian Inspired Chor Minor Madrassah" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/40/51608140.4efe3ff9.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Indian Inspired Chor Minor Madrassah</strong><br/> Historical landmark building in Bukhara.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608142"><img title="A Random House Museum we Passed" alt="A Random House Museum we Passed" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/42/51608142.46d0e5e6.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Random House Museum we Passed</strong><br/> Walking the streets of Bukhara, an elderly man gestured us in to his ramshackle home filled with curios and odd items from many different eras. Nothing formal - it was just his house, He showed us up ladders to his roof for some views over the town.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608144"><img title="Terrace View while Sipping Tea" alt="Terrace View while Sipping Tea" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/44/51608144.cb2b92a1.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Terrace View while Sipping Tea</strong><br/> Looking out at the domed roofs of the bazaar, the Kalon Minaret, the Mir-I-Arab Madrasa turquoise dome. In the foreground, the Ulugbeg Madrasa on the right and the Abdulaziz Khan Madrasa on the left create bookends for our vista.</small><br/> <br/>
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At lunch, we found ourselves at a restaurant known for its plov - a Central Asian variant of a biryani, usually with lamb. We were not quite getting our timing right, generally, for plov, as it is made in batches. Good plov restaurants seem to only serve it at lunch time, and since we are beginning most days with a pretty hearty breakfast, lunch is often being skipped or replaced with a light snack. The queue was long, but the turnover high, indications of a highly rated plov. Two Uzbek ladies gestured for us to share the table with them, and after some introductions, they recommended the plov sofi and a jug of cherry compote.<br/>
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Asal was the name of the daughter, and her excellent English meant we could talk about lots of things. So, we found out that plov and osh are two names for the same dish. But osh sofi and osh are different. Would we like to come to their house tomorrow, where they could treat us to a proper, homemade osh? Did we have to think before answering?<br/>
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The following day, a pin was sent to us. They lived about 20 minutes drive from Bukhara centre, but conveniently for us, they were 2 minutes from the train station, and us with an overnight train to catch, it could not have been more convenient. We ate osh, drank tea, enjoyed chocolate cake in celebration of her aunt's birthday. We went out and about with Asal, and relaxed in their home until it was time to go to the station.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608146"><img title="Osh with Asal and her Family" alt="Osh with Asal and her Family" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/46/51608146.05137086.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Osh with Asal and her Family</strong><br/> We met Asal (third along) in a restaurant in Bukhara, with her mother. The place was crowded, and they offered to share their table with us. We got talking, and by the time we finished, they had invited us to their home. So the next day, we came, and they made this feast, with an amazing version of the ubiquitous local dish, osh, also called plov.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608148"><img title="Tomb of Shaykh Baha-ud-Din" alt="Tomb of Shaykh Baha-ud-Din" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/48/51608148.51b38ab1.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Tomb of Shaykh Baha-ud-Din</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608150"><img title="On the Roof, Dvorets Emira Bukharskogo" alt="On the Roof, Dvorets Emira Bukharskogo" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/50/51608150.2d53e4b9.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>On the Roof, Dvorets Emira Bukharskogo</strong><br/> Close to the home of Asal, actually in Kogon. We visited this old palace, with an interesting mix of eastern and western architecture.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51608152"><img title="Learning to Play Chess" alt="Learning to Play Chess" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/52/51608152.dc03e4c4.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Learning to Play Chess</strong><br/> In a corner room of the Dvorets Emira Bukharskogo. Close to the front, chess was being taught and played, further back was a bit more anarchic.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Bukhara, Uzbekistan39.7680827 64.455576911.457848863821155 29.299326899999997 68.078316536178846 99.6118269tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-20008190759894115652022-10-03T02:05:00.010+11:002022-10-03T02:55:00.834+11:00Uzbek Serenity<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">26 Sep to 2 Oct, 2022 - Samarkand, Shakhrisabz, Termez - (Uzbekistan)</span><br />
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As a visitor lacking any common language with the locals, there are certain vulnerabilities. One that we are especially wary of is overcharging. While this can happen even when you can converse, using misunderstandings is a common tactic to squeeze you for more money. In the end, the misunderstanding may have been genuine and we never want someone else to miss what they are due if the communication failure has occurred. <br/>
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On this trip, we have never felt unsafe. We have seen multiple examples of honesty and good will. We have bargained for purchases, and regardless of whether we agree on a price or not, have always parted on good terms with smiles.<br/>
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We had one taxi driver try to decline our tip, wanting to round down instead because he didn't have the correct change. I observed a customer and waitress arguing over money, trying to push some cash in to each other's hands. Every deal we struck was honoured and completed unbegrudgingly.<br/>
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Heading west from Tashkent to Samarkand, we took the train. Our intention was to take the high speed service, but only one day before, most services were full, and ended up on a leg if a much longer sleeper service. <br/>
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Four days was a nice amount of time for this fascinating city. Unhurried visits to the main sights, some shopping, and plenty of time to linger over meals or cay (chai).<br/>
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One day, after visiting the museum of the ancient city ruins, we decided to shortcut back to the new town, only to find ourselves clambering down the remains of the old city walls, ending up wedged between them, the cemetery, an express way, and a drainage channel.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51599830"><img title="Registan, at Night" alt="Registan, at Night" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/98/30/51599830.462dfb32.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Registan, at Night</strong><br/> Sublime and dignified. The three madrasahs which now make up the Registan in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. Although the name, in reality, relates to the square which these buildings were built around, it has now become synonymous with the buildings themselves.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51599832"><img title="Registan, Disneyfied" alt="Registan, Disneyfied" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/98/32/51599832.8b7d8dfa.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Registan, Disneyfied</strong><br/> There are numerous criticisms in books and on websites about the "Disneyfication" that is occurring to various monuments in Uzbekistan. This was not as bad as we expected (and not as bad as this photo might suggest). There was stirring music, culturally appropriate and not too loud, while the lights changed colour and "danced" along the rows of arches. That said, although I didn't reel in horror or disgust, I don't know if it added anything to our enjoyment. On other evenings, when it was simply lit, the subtle details were more prominent, and the overall feel was certainly more dignified.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51599834"><img title="Registan by Day" alt="Registan by Day" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/98/34/51599834.f8e0ff9d.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Registan by Day</strong><br/> Staying in Samarkand for four nights meant we had ample visits past this view. Some days, we crossed here multiple times. It was wonderful to enjoy the changing moods of the shifting shadows.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51599836"><img title="Repairing a Leaning Tower" alt="Repairing a Leaning Tower" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/98/36/51599836.cf57026a.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Repairing a Leaning Tower</strong><br/> Well, if you go back to our other photos, you will see there are some leans. From some places in the grounds, you struggle to see anything that looks perfectly vertical. However, seeing this photo from the 1930s made us appreciate that, in comparison, we can probably call the current angles as "near enough".</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600860"><img title="Ceiling Selfie, Registan" alt="Ceiling Selfie, Registan" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/60/51600860.6869f2fc.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ceiling Selfie, Registan</strong><br/> In Tilla-Kari Madrasah, the "Gold Covered" Madrasah. This is the middle madrasah in the Registan. The ceiling is a beautiful kaleidoscope, and standing in the middle staring up, one starts to lose orientation of up and downā¦</small><br/> <br/>
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While the Ragistan is king of tourist sights in Samarkand, it is not alone. There is a lot more to this city than most first realise.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600862"><img title="Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, Samarkand" alt="Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, Samarkand" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/62/51600862.3ee1ec05.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, Samarkand</strong><br/> Another highlight sight of Samarkand. This Mausoleum contains, amongst others, the remains of Timur. He is often described as a tyrant, after ransacking his way through much of the reachable world, from norther India through to Iran. Much of the plunder, though, returned to this part of the world, including craftspeople. So he is also remembered as a builder and developer. In this mausoleum is also the remains of a couple of sons and grandsons, including ruler, astronomer, mathematician Ulug-Beg.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600864"><img title="Mausoleum of Qusam-ibn-Abbas" alt="Mausoleum of Qusam-ibn-Abbas" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/64/51600864.8cceec81.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Mausoleum of Qusam-ibn-Abbas</strong><br/> A cousin of the prophet Mohammed, credited with bringing Islam to this part of the world in the 7th century. The shrine grew and was modified over the year, and in the 14th and 15th centuries, many magnificent mausoleums were built in the area.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600866"><img title="Magnificent Wood Carved Doors" alt="Magnificent Wood Carved Doors" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/66/51600866.e9fed171.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Magnificent Wood Carved Doors</strong><br/> The mausoleums doors were also worth keeping an eye on, as they contained incredible craftsmanship, too.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600868"><img title="Shah-i-Zinda" alt="Shah-i-Zinda" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/68/51600868.33185af8.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Shah-i-Zinda</strong><br/> These are some of the oldest mausoleums in Shah-i-Zinda, and the tile work on them is beautiful. Apparently, much of the tiling is original, and restoration on these was quite minimal, testament to the quality of the workmanship.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600870"><img title="On the Avenue of Mausoleums" alt="On the Avenue of Mausoleums" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/70/51600870.2c299b53.500.jpg?r2" height="269" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>On the Avenue of Mausoleums</strong><br/> Shah-i-Zinda is like a little street lined with mausoleums. Here we can see some of the work in detail, including where it has curved to create shape and form as well as texture and colour. Looking past the tiles, the Octagonal Mausoleum can be seen, unusual in that it is open sided.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600872"><img title="Inner Details, the Octagonal Mausoleum" alt="Inner Details, the Octagonal Mausoleum" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/72/51600872.3f2e467f.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Inner Details, the Octagonal Mausoleum</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600874"><img title="A Fine Breakfast Spread" alt="A Fine Breakfast Spread" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/74/51600874.940b1533.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Fine Breakfast Spread</strong><br/> OK, it was not just for the two of us, but the array of foods meant we did not start any of our days hungry. On top of these dishes, we were given a small bowl of porridge, a fried egg, and a sausage. No complaints from us.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600876"><img title="Russian Jeep for Sale" alt="Russian Jeep for Sale" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/76/51600876.d284c1bd.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Russian Jeep for Sale</strong><br/> It hardly ever rains around here, so the lack of a roof seems hardly an issue.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600878"><img title="No Translation Needed" alt="No Translation Needed" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/78/51600878.3e1a0030.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>No Translation Needed</strong><br/> A picture might be worth a thousand words. This one is worth one word. A very important word.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600880"><img title="Bibi-Khanym Mosque" alt="Bibi-Khanym Mosque" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/80/51600880.80fab4f0.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bibi-Khanym Mosque</strong><br/> When built, in the 14th century, it was possibly the largest mosque in the world. Can you see Jo in the foreground? It is not possible to go inside, with the main dome still unrepaired after a 19th century earthquake. Peering through the doors and windows, giant cracks in the walls and ceiling make the structure look very vulnerable. Outside, though, that sense is lost, and the colossal facade is humbling. The historians, though, record that the building was done so quickly, and the engineering was stretching the limits so much, that cracks started appearing even before the works were complete. It's no wonder, then, that some movements in tectonic plates might cause the whole endeavour to appear precarious.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51600882"><img title="Recently Refurbished Hazrat-Hizr" alt="Recently Refurbished Hazrat-Hizr" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/82/51600882.3df74c50.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Recently Refurbished Hazrat-Hizr</strong><br/> Certainly much humbler in size, the nearby Hazrat-Hizr Mosque in Samarkand presents an extremely colourful ceiling.</small><br/> <br/>
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Heading south from Samarkand, we found ourselves progressively further and further from the trodden tourist path. Most foreigners don't make it to Shakrisabz, and in Termez on the border of Afghanistan, we saw one person who was definitely not local.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51602332"><img title="There was a Piece of Rope" alt="There was a Piece of Rope" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/23/32/51602332.0ccae445.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>There was a Piece of Rope</strong><br/> A car we passed on the way south in Uzbekistan. Loading your car in this way is probably not legal in many countries, but it looked surprisingly sturdy, even though there only appeared to be one piece of rope running over the top. Looks like he may have done this before.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51602334"><img title="Ak-Saray Palace, Shakhrisabz" alt="Ak-Saray Palace, Shakhrisabz" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/23/34/51602334.007bedfe.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="404" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ak-Saray Palace, Shakhrisabz</strong><br/> All that remains of Timur's Ak-Saray Palace. the two sides of the entrance portal. This must have been impressive before it was destroyed - you can see it only gets to where the arch would have begun.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51602336"><img title="Cay (Chai) in a Converted Caravansary" alt="Cay (Chai) in a Converted Caravansary" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/23/36/51602336.83c9af59.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Cay (Chai) in a Converted Caravansary</strong></small><br/> <br/>
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Using online translation is getting better, rapidly, but is a tool we try to avoid unless it is important or getting awkward. Locals generally seem to have one installed, and are quicker to resort to using that than we are. Whike it takes out some of the fun and challenge, it introduces a new game. What did they think they were saying or asking? Negotiating a taxi, just this morning, while waving fingers in the air and trying to clarify for how many and how far, a phone was thrust in front of me. The English translation displayed said "Uzbek serenity." My perplexed expression did not seem to deter him as he pointed insistently at the screen. Yesterday, at the hotel comparing different options, the manager used his phone to ask Jo a puzzling question, "Can I paint the room now?"<br/>
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Termez, in southern Uzbekistan, the border of Afghanistan. The drive down here was flanked by landscape that perfectly reflected what I expect Afghan landscapes to be. Pretty broad and dry, with rocky hills and outcrops. Goatherds riding donkeys or walking, surrounded by scores of black woolly goats. When we got to the city, it was enveloped in a cloud of dust, limiting visibility and filling our eyes, noses, and lungs with grit. Thankfully it settled after a few hours, but it did not feel out of character for where we were.<br/>
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As we were leaving from the bus station, before getting in to our vehicle, a police officer approached us and asked to see our pasdports. I took them and accompanied this officer to a small, slightly terrifying room reminiscent of many a movie scene. It had a table with one chair, which he took, and another chair in the middle of the room. Bare concrete walls, and nothing else in the room, except an exercise book and pen. Thankfully there was a window, and my concern would have been greater had he closed the door and told me to sit. He smiled, haphazardly copied some details from our documents in to the unformatted and messy pages of his book, took a photo of the entry stamps, and sent me on my way.<br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Samarkand, Uzbekistan39.627012 66.974973111.316778163821155 31.8187231 67.937245836178846 102.1312231tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-80127954457264627592022-09-28T01:24:00.016+10:002022-09-29T12:51:40.467+10:00A Casual Stop in Tashkent<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">22 to 26 Sep, 2022 - Tashkent - (Uzbekistan)</span><br />
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After our minbus to the border, we crossed in to Uzekistan on foot. Since the distance from the border to Tashkent down town is not great, the easiest way to go is by taxi. Our driver was named Aladdin. He made a comment about having a Jasmine at home, but surely that was a joke. He promised he was not a genie, and was unable to grant wishes.<br/>
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Our time here in Tashkent was very low key and unstressed. A few days which were uncluttered. Staying with a friend, Caroline, we just got in to a laidback, Tashkent rhythm. Eating and markets, some mosques, and some errands. Jo had some sewing done, and I got a shave. My shave felt a little rushed, but I realised why - as I paid, and we were ushered out of the shop, the barber grabbed his prayer mat, locked the door, and hurried with the throngs for Friday prayers.<br/>
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Walking back through the market, with many stalls temporarilly abandoned, we noticed some opportunistic thieves taking advantage of the absent marketeers. A couple of pigeons were helpting themselves to the piles of nuts and grains that were still arranged and on display for potential sale.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51589158"><img title="Doesn't Everyone have a Friend Living in Tashkent" alt="Doesn't Everyone have a Friend Living in Tashkent" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/91/58/51589158.5c433f6b.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Doesn't Everyone have a Friend Living in Tashkent</strong><br/> Caroline, a former colleague of Jo's, now living in Tashkent, who is putting us up in her apartment while we spend some time here.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51589160"><img title="Chorsu Bazaar" alt="Chorsu Bazaar" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/91/60/51589160.deda3e0b.500.jpg?r2" height="137" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Chorsu Bazaar</strong><br/> Looking down in the bustling market place of Tashkent's Chorsu Bazaar. This is just the inner building, the original heart of the market, which now spans multiple city blocks in every direction. It is the largest market in Central Asia.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51589162"><img title="Prayer Hall" alt="Prayer Hall" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/91/62/51589162.30ece606.500.jpg?r2" height="396" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Prayer Hall</strong><br/> Inside the Hazrati Imom Friday Mosque. A recent construction, yet soon to be superseded by a shadowing construction almost next door. Inside was nice to visit, not so typically decorated with unusual colours and straying from the typical patterns. Outside, beautiful green marble and wooden features gave it a more traditional look.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51589164"><img title=""Please Give me more Attention"" alt=""Please Give me more Attention"" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/91/64/51589164.48fa86ea.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>āPlease Give me more Attentionā</strong><br/> Nunu. Or as we started calling her, Noonesy. Caroline's adorable dog. Heaven forbid if you should stop patting her for a minute or two.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51589166"><img title="Building of the Museum of Applied Arts" alt="Building of the Museum of Applied Arts" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/91/66/51589166.fd81ae24.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Building of the Museum of Applied Arts</strong><br/> The small museum is contained in a handful of small buildings on the grounds of this house. The building itself is a true item of the collection.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51589168"><img title="Pottery Man on a Donkey" alt="Pottery Man on a Donkey" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/91/68/51589168.52bc77b0.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Pottery Man on a Donkey</strong><br/> An item in the collection - Museum of Applied Arts, Tashkent.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Tashkent, Uzbekistan41.2994958 69.240073412.989261963821157 34.0838234 69.609729636178855 104.3963234tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-18306978268083728592022-09-22T20:13:00.048+10:002022-09-22T21:05:12.330+10:00Southern Kazakhstan, and Out<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">18 to 22 Sep, 2022 - Shymkent, Turkestan, Aysha-Bibi - (Kazakhstan)</span><br />
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Near Shymkent, there are two sights we wanted to get to. And as it is a stone's throw from the Uzbekistan border, and Tashkent, it made sense to finish our Kazakh visit here.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51584926"><img title="War Memorial" alt="War Memorial" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/26/51584926.bdfe964d.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>War Memorial</strong><br/> Most war memorials are very moving. Few things have comparable impact to listing names of lives lost. 140000 from south Kazakhstan.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51584930"><img title="Taking In the Beautiful Tiles" alt="Taking In the Beautiful Tiles" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/30/51584930.6c133715.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Taking In the Beautiful Tiles</strong><br/> We hopped in a minibus to Turkestan, a couple of hours and some away from Shymkent. Here, the main sight for us was the Yasaui Mausoleum. Built in the 14th century on the site of an existing tomb. It was already a significant pilgrimage site back then, and these days it still seems the pilgrims make up the bulk of the visitors. Coloured bricks and tiles bring delightful colour and patterns to most exterior facades of the imposing structure.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51584932"><img title="A Pair of Woolly Camels" alt="A Pair of Woolly Camels" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/32/51584932.035557f9.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Pair of Woolly Camels</strong><br/> I can't ever recall seeing camels with, what at least looks like, a soft woolly coat. These too looked fluffy and, almost, cuddly. From this angle, you can see that the Mausoleum was never completed. The main facades remain bare, and structural beams are still exposed. Work ceased when the sponsor passed away. Later, they cleaned it up, but retained the unfinished appearance.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51584940"><img title="Mausoleum of Aysha-Bibi" alt="Mausoleum of Aysha-Bibi" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/40/51584940.c3f512f6.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Mausoleum of Aysha-Bibi</strong><br/> It may have been easy enough to get to Aysha-Bibi by minibus, as they will happily drop you off as they go by. We were not quite in the mood to wait by the roadside for a return trip to Shymkent, possibly watching multiple full vehicles whizzing by. So, we decided to take the easy option of getting there by taxi. While not a large building, the beautiful terracotta bricks with various patterns made the time and effort worthwhile. Although extensive restoration was performed in the last 20 years or so, it is reportedly true and accurate to the original 11th or 12th century structure.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51584946"><img title="At Aysha-Bibi" alt="At Aysha-Bibi" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/46/51584946.6215afa3.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>At Aysha-Bibi</strong><br/> One side had a door, three sides had windows with little spots to sit. Inside, at the tomb, pilgrims received a blessing. Some of the visitors circled the building, touching and praying at various points. We just circled and admired the patterned bricks, and rather than a blessing, went inside for a happy little chat about being from Australia.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51584950"><img title="Details" alt="Details" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/50/51584950.8b97e8d6.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Details</strong><br/> Using light and shade to bring the details of the patterned bricks to 2 dimensions.</small><br/> <br/>
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To finish our time in Kazakhstan, we had some, still to be explained, odd information. The big, comfy bus we were to take to Tashkent was cancelled, and the reason, they said, was fuel. That was it, a one word Google translation, "fuel". We assume not too much, or bad, so perhaps difficulty acquiring? In a fuel producing and exporting nation? Would minibuses run? Maybe not, they said. The taxi driver we had, the day before, went to four petrol stations to get fuel, but assured us there were no fuel problems. We asked in Shymkent, and got told there were no fuel problems. Yet today, on our Tashkent bound minibus, we stopped at eight or ten stations before the driver got some fuel, but only a ration or so, because we subsequently stopped at another three or four to get some more.<br/>
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So yesterday, after our visit to Aysha-Bibi, we returned to Shymkent via a bazaar with a good reputation for fabrics and textiles. The whole market place was in darkness, as power was off. So we went around a few areas, and stall holders showed us their wares using the torches on their phones. We eventually found something we liked and bargained a suitable price. I left Jo chatting with them while I went to the nearest ATM to get cash, but upon seeing the blank screen, I knew power was an important ingredient in any ATM interaction. I went further and wider, leaving the market district. In the end, I realised this might be a futile endeavour, and decided to rely on some of our emergency US dollars. I knew I was gone a good while, because by the time I got back, Jo was practically one of the family. They had been teaching her Kazakh (counting to five) and more little phrases, and stumbling through descriptions of Australia and family. As we left, I joked to her about being the girl abandoned in a market and raised by a kind local family who took her in. Years later, reaching deep in to her memory, she had some vague recollections about a distant country called Australia, but didn't know where they might have come from. <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Shymkent, Kazakhstan42.341684699999988 69.5901009999999914.031450863821142 34.43385099999999 70.65191853617884 104.74635099999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-54546395950948905372022-09-18T22:15:00.013+10:002022-09-23T22:17:06.605+10:00The City Which Ended with a Different Name<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">16 Sep to 18 Sep, 2022 - Nur-Sultan (Astana) - (Kazakhstan)</span><br />
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A quick photo based entry about our brief stop in Nur-Sultan. Initially, we were going to bypass this city, capital of Kazakhstan. However, we had such a great couple of days. The layout of the city, and the architecture, something that we really appreciate having experienced. We ate really well, in fact, so well, that we ate at the same place again, the next night.<br/>
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First, the names of the city. Initially, in the 19th century, a fortress called Akmola was here. In 1961, it became Tselinograd. Post Soviet Union, back to being called Akmola. In 1997, it became Astana, which means capital. Finally, 2019 saw it renamed Nur-Sultan, in honour of the ex-president.<br/>
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And now the breaking news. Really breaking news. That finally is not as finally as thought. In the last few days, the current president has announced that the name is to revert back to Astana! There you have it, not quite, but by the time you read this, Nur-Sultan may likely be another past name of the city.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51574156"><img title="Looking Out, Nur-Sultan" alt="Looking Out, Nur-Sultan" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/56/51574156.213545b3.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Looking Out, Nur-Sultan</strong><br/> Nur-Sultan, capital of Kazkhstan. Looking out from the top of the Baiterek Tower, towards the east. The golden tapered towers provide bookends of the view of Kazakhstanās presidential palace. Beyond that, the river separates the (obscured in this photo) Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, Independence Square, and more important buildings, as well as an important mosque.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51574158"><img title="Baiterek Tower and its Egg" alt="Baiterek Tower and its Egg" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/58/51574158.dfac1d2b.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Baiterek Tower and its Egg</strong><br/> This city has had a number of names. In 1998, it became āAstanaā, when the capital was moved here. Only in 2019 was it renamed to Nur-Sultan. With that renaming, and the following growth, planners took the opportunity to lay out the wide boulevards, creating a very open feel, and opportunities for key buildings and landmark structures to become features. The focus of the layout is Nurzhol Boulevard, and the iconic Baiterek Tower. It is inspired by legends of Samruk, who lays her egg at the top of the tree of life.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51574162"><img title="KazMunayGaz, Creating a Frame for Khan Shatyr" alt="KazMunayGaz, Creating a Frame for Khan Shatyr" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/62/51574162.8853ead8.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>KazMunayGaz, Creating a Frame for Khan Shatyr</strong><br/> Khan Shatyr means āRoyal Marqueeā. It is a shopping centre full of brands and entertainment, including rides and a dinosaur theme park. These two buildings mark the western end of Nurzhol Boulevard.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51574166"><img title="Using the Props Provided" alt="Using the Props Provided" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/66/51574166.c619f447.500.jpg?r2" height="306" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Using the Props Provided</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51574170"><img title="Prayer Hall, Hazrat Sultan Mosque" alt="Prayer Hall, Hazrat Sultan Mosque" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/70/51574170.bad2145c.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Prayer Hall, Hazrat Sultan Mosque</strong><br/> The Hazrat Sultan Mosque was the main mosque for Astana until this year, when a new mosque was inaugurated. We visited at a quiet time, when only a handful of others were inside.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51574172"><img title="Hazrat Sultan Mosque" alt="Hazrat Sultan Mosque" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/72/51574172.02cd2caa.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Hazrat Sultan Mosque</strong><br/> A couple of men have chosen sunny spots to study.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51574174"><img title="Worldās Largest Fully Spherical Building" alt="Worldās Largest Fully Spherical Building" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/74/51574174.20ad70b5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Worldās Largest Fully Spherical Building</strong><br/> The glass of the building is not pieced together to approximate a ball, but each piece was engineered with the precise curve in it, to make a true sphere. Inside is an eight storey museum about energy, space, and the future for Kazakhstan. This follows on from its original use as the centrepiece of Expo 2017 International Exhibition. It is known as the Nur Alem Pavillion.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51574176"><img title="Eight Storeys up on a Glass Floor" alt="Eight Storeys up on a Glass Floor" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/76/51574176.d70ef113.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Eight Storeys up on a Glass Floor</strong><br/> Inside Nur Alem Pavilion, Jo shows us how fearless she is on the glass floor.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51574178"><img title="Grand Mosque, Nur-Sultan" alt="Grand Mosque, Nur-Sultan" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/78/51574178.417f8839.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Grand Mosque, Nur-Sultan</strong><br/> Replacing Hazrat Sultan Mosque as the principal place of worship, the Grand Mosque was opened this year. It is the largest mosque in Central Asia, and ranks amongst the largest in the world.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51574180"><img title="Prayer Hall, Grand Mosque" alt="Prayer Hall, Grand Mosque" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/80/51574180.4b62e4b1.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="252" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Prayer Hall, Grand Mosque</strong><br/> In contrast to our mosque visit, earlier in the day, the Grand Mosque was bustling and lively. Children cried out and ran across the lush thick carpet, rolling and playing in delight. People sat around and chatted in circles. It felt very uptempo and relaxed.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Nur-Sultan 020000, Kazakhstan51.160522699999987 71.470355822.850288863821142 36.314105799999993 79.47075653617884 106.6266058tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-40022286225057115652022-09-15T15:04:00.002+10:002022-09-18T22:14:29.446+10:00A Remote Trip Across Mangistau<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">11 Sep to 16 Sep, 2022 - Aktau, Kampasay, Shopak Ata, Torish, Kokala, Sherkala, Airakty, Shetpe, Tuzbair, Beket Ata, Bozzhira, Mount Bokty, Kyzylkup, Shopan Ata - (Kazakhstan)</span><br />
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Our well selected flight from Almaty to Aktau, in the west, was delayed. We did not receive notification of this, but I discovered it when I went to check in. So, instead of a lovely evening flight, we had another shocking middle of the night trip. Checking in, my hand luggage caused a bit of consternation. Three or four times they passed the bag through the scanner. Each time, they asked if there was a pocket knife or similar. No, I replied, knowing that I had put my pocket knife in the main luggage. Eventually, triumphantly, they pulled out a corkscrew from my bag, which I had totally forgotten about. They let me keep it, and reminded me to put it in the checked bags next time, but I am curious how it got through (twice) when we checked in and began this trip in Rome.<br/>
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We had read a number of times that travelling to the west Kazakh natural sights can be difficult, and almost dangerous, if you don't know where you are going. Unsigned tracks across the steppes, around the farms, and through the camels mean that having a competent and experienced driver is a must. After twenty minutes of our three day trip, we were comfortable we had done the right thing by booking a car and guide. <br/>
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Day one was the most crowded with stops. The sights were relatively close together, but the total time bouncing around was still significant. We were keen to see both the natural wonders, and the important pilgrimage cave mosques.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567348"><img title="Kampasay, Mangistau region of Kazakhstan" alt="Kampasay, Mangistau region of Kazakhstan" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/48/51567348.96fdbb49.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Kampasay, Mangistau region of Kazakhstan</strong><br/> A dusty pot-holed track across the steppe appeared to be taking us nowhere. After a while, a rift in the landscape appeared, and afforded us a view of Kampasay. Only just visible in the picture, behind the layered rock formation, there is an oasis.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567350"><img title="Graves Near Shokpak Ata" alt="Graves Near Shokpak Ata" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/50/51567350.582f9260.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Graves Near Shokpak Ata</strong><br/> Shokpak Ata is a holy site in western Kazakhstan. For about a millennium, faithful have buried loved ones nearby. Some graves date from the 10th and 11th centuries, and newer ones are from the latter 1900s. Since the site is now a protected zone, new burials are no longer allowed. Only in (comparatively) recent years have dates or names been included on graves. So it is clues like style which help age the grave sites. These, we were told, are likely to be 16th or 17th century.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567352"><img title="Approach to Shokpak Ata" alt="Approach to Shokpak Ata" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/52/51567352.9de17e91.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Approach to Shokpak Ata</strong><br/> Shokpak Ata is a cave mosque, where a Sufi monk lived and taught over 1000 years ago. Shokpak was the name given to him because of his legendary ability to create fire by snapping his fingers. Shokpak is the local word for the sound of two rocks striking a spark.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567354"><img title="Etched Wishes and Prayers" alt="Etched Wishes and Prayers" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/54/51567354.c97cb7d7.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Etched Wishes and Prayers</strong><br/> The age of these requests are unknown, scratched in to the walls of Shokpak Ata cave mosque.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567356"><img title="Inside Shokpak Ata in west Kazakhstan" alt="Inside Shokpak Ata in west Kazakhstan" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/56/51567356.ece23a07.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Inside Shokpak Ata in west Kazakhstan</strong><br/> The glass at the entrance is a twentieth century addition to protect the cave, but other than that it is just a natural cave which has been enlarged and shaped. Inside, no man made items exist other than a few beautiful hand made carpets.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567358"><img title="Rock Ball, Torish" alt="Rock Ball, Torish" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/58/51567358.c6e38579.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Rock Ball, Torish</strong><br/> We were, of course, curious about the science of these balls, which litter the landscape for a strip of a few hundred metres. The shell fossils everywhere attest that almost the entire region was once the floor of the ocean. At that time, molten lava from an underwater volcanic eruption was broken in to blobs which were rolled around on the seabed as they cooled and hardened. Apparently, here at Torish, west Kazakhstan, is one of only two places where this is known to have happened. Eggs, toirtoises, muffins - these were the descriptors we used when pointing the different rocks out to each other. Only a small number were this spherical, but these "giant's marbles" were the most engaging. Most were cracked, and many were split into parts. Millennia of freezing and heating taking its toll. Some showed layers, like rings on a tree. Others peeled a "shell" off, like a boiled egg.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567360"><img title="Jo, for Scale" alt="Jo, for Scale" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/60/51567360.0e9cceba.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo, for Scale</strong><br/> Here, she is a prop, so you can gauge the size of the Torish rock balls. This one is split quite cleanly, and shows off some of the layering.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567362"><img title="Losing Myself in the Madness" alt="Losing Myself in the Madness" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/62/51567362.2b5225ed.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Losing Myself in the Madness</strong><br/> Balls, part balls, peeled off layers, and distorted shapes. It all seems to be happening.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567364"><img title="Cave Lizards" alt="Cave Lizards" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/64/51567364.ec7ee31a.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Cave Lizards</strong><br/> We were shown a cave, with a simple wooden door and a rug. A shelter if conditions should make it necessary to stay put. A score or more of these fat lizards were enjoying the cool conditions inside.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567366"><img title="Kokala" alt="Kokala" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/66/51567366.c32e38f6.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Kokala</strong><br/> According to Nur, the rate of erosion here is so high, this entire site may disappear in the next seventy years. No real rock, just layers of coloured soil. Iron rich red layers, and a brown coal seam near the top, and sulphurous gravels in between. This colourful layered mound seems so fragile.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567368"><img title="Sherkala, the Lion's Fortress" alt="Sherkala, the Lion's Fortress" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/68/51567368.3b0b0ff2.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Sherkala, the Lion's Fortress</strong><br/> In western Kazakhstan, Mangistau, Sherkala rises out of apparent nothingness.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567370"><img title="Sherkala, from Another Angle" alt="Sherkala, from Another Angle" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/70/51567370.91372dc5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Sherkala, from Another Angle</strong><br/> From here it resembles a giant yurt. A popular photo spot.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567372"><img title="Dramatic Airakty" alt="Dramatic Airakty" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/72/51567372.2e69fdee.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Dramatic Airakty</strong><br/> With erosion resembling columns, this area was made famous by an exiled Ukrainian artist and poet, Taras Shevchenko. He was sent here in the 1850s after writing some prose that was unflattering to the Russian government of the day.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567374"><img title="Camel" alt="Camel" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/74/51567374.4d93a98e.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Camel</strong><br/> All the camels around here are marked. A letter, a number, or a symbol. By this, all know who owns which camel. We did try some proper shubat, I.e not from a plastic bottle in a supermarket. Shubat is the fermented camel's milk. It was surprisingly good, and quite refreshing.</small><br/> <br/>
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The next two days became one little subadventure. With a magnificent night camping, one of the best camping experiences we have ever had, as the link of the two days. Fewer sights, and longer times in the car, were rewarded with wonderful vistas and stunning scenery.<br/>
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Beket Ata cave mosque is a reasonable 20-30 minute walk from the car park at the top of the cliff. Winding our way down the path, we encountered hot and tired families and groups coming back up. Many smiled as we greeted them with one of our three Kazakh words. Invariably, they knew we were not local. Maybe it was our pronunciation, maybe our clothes, maybe our hair and features... Anyway, they just knew, and would frequently try and ask for information about us. Well, all we could really communicate is that we were from Australia. Oh, the smiles we would get, and even got a welcoming embrace from an older gentleman who beamed at us. Then, they would chatter amongst themselves, us not understanding a thing, except the word "Australia", and yes, almost every time, "kangaroo". At this, we would laugh, and they would laugh with us. Our confused looks ensured they knew we had only caught that small gist of the conversation.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567806"><img title="Shrine" alt="Shrine" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/06/51567806.5eb85d35.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Shrine</strong><br/> Man Ata. Little seems to be known about the inhabitant of this grave, now a shrine, attributed with being a protector of travellers. He was a Zoroastrian teacher or priest, from before the 10th century, when Islam came to Mangistau. We have no idea what all the scripts are. But the last one had me most intrigued. The majority of vehicles seemed to stop on the way past, with the occupants spending a few minutes in prayer and meditation at Man Ata's grave.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567808"><img title="Tuzbair, a West Kazakhstan Salt Flat" alt="Tuzbair, a West Kazakhstan Salt Flat" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/08/51567808.c0366ae9.500.jpg?r2" height="88" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Tuzbair, a West Kazakhstan Salt Flat</strong><br/> The land is dotted with depressions, many are quite a bit lower than sea level. Tuzbair is the biggest salt lake here.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567810"><img title="It Was Windy" alt="It Was Windy" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/10/51567810.acba8cf5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>It Was Windy</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567812"><img title="A Sheltered Picnic Spot" alt="A Sheltered Picnic Spot" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/12/51567812.0c09942d.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Sheltered Picnic Spot</strong><br/> A place out of the wind was the number one criterion when choosing where to stop for lunch.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567814"><img title="Holy Stick, Beket Ata" alt="Holy Stick, Beket Ata" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/14/51567814.983056c6.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Holy Stick, Beket Ata</strong><br/> In the cave mosque of Beket Ata. Three small "rooms" where the Sufi, Beket Ata lived and taught. Pilgrims visit the cave where he is buried, and then come to this area to walk around the holy stick.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567816"><img title="Looking Down, Bozzhira" alt="Looking Down, Bozzhira" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/16/51567816.7f9cab20.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Looking Down, Bozzhira</strong><br/> Bozzhira in Mangistau, Kazakhstan. A multitude of gorgeous view points.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567818"><img title="Breathtaking Views Abound" alt="Breathtaking Views Abound" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/18/51567818.c93df056.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Breathtaking Views Abound</strong><br/> Bozzhira, Kazakhstan</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567820"><img title="I'm Running Out of Superlatives" alt="I'm Running Out of Superlatives" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/20/51567820.d58ac294.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>I'm Running Out of Superlatives</strong><br/> A few kilometres from our first stop at Bozzhira. We crossed a narrow join from the surrounding plateau to an outcrop where we could absorb the splendour of this formation.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567822"><img title="Looking Out from our Campsite" alt="Looking Out from our Campsite" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/22/51567822.2f5452cc.500.jpg?r2" height="71" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Looking Out from our Campsite</strong><br/> We spent the night on the floor of Bozzhira. A recess in the rockface was deemed an ideal spot for our tents, protected from the blustery gusts that seemed to build the whole afternoon.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567824"><img title="Dinner is On" alt="Dinner is On" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/24/51567824.d70fe60b.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Dinner is On</strong><br/> Chop vegetables; add some chicken; season and spice; screw the lid on tight; heat with the nearest flame throwing device. The driver, Ruston, got this fantastic pressure cooker from Afghanistan.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567826"><img title="Sunrise Reaches our Camp" alt="Sunrise Reaches our Camp" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/26/51567826.2ce5a34d.500.jpg?r2" height="152" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Sunrise Reaches our Camp</strong><br/> Morning in Bozzhira, and while Ruston cooked breakfast we just spent some time appreciating the soft light striking the formations that surrounded us.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567828"><img title="Dima, a "Keen" Cyclist" alt="Dima, a "Keen" Cyclist" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/28/51567828.1648dc53.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Dima, a "Keen" Cyclist</strong><br/> When we first saw a figure weaving through the rocks and sand and vegetation, I thought it was an animal. Despite a strong confidence in the knowledge that none would be here, I even thought it might be an ostrich. Nur said with confidence that anyone cycling here must be a foreigner, or crazy, likely both. It turned out to be a Kazakh guy, who had been riding four days, with four or five more ahead. He didn't really have a plan, or much of a map for that matter. Just wending and winding through the landscape in search of views. He appreciated greatly our gifts of water and food, and he joined us for dinner and breakfast. He cycled Jordan end to end, and once bought a bike in Amsterdam and rode to Barcelona, frequently being the first Kazakh that many Europeans had met. A toast to our crazy Kazakh Russian friend, Dima.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567830"><img title="Mt Bokty" alt="Mt Bokty" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/30/51567830.a68d2062.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Mt Bokty</strong><br/> As depicted on Kazakhstan's 1000 tenge note.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567832"><img title="TiramisĆ¹" alt="TiramisĆ¹" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/32/51567832.51240ba4.500.jpg?r2" height="91" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>TiramisĆ¹</strong><br/> Jo taking in Kyzylkup, in the Kazakh region of Mangistau. For fairly obvious reasons, it is also called TiramisĆ¹.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51567834"><img title="Pilgrims at Shopan Ata" alt="Pilgrims at Shopan Ata" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/78/34/51567834.132de3ee.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Pilgrims at Shopan Ata</strong><br/> Shopan Ata is the Sufi attributed with bringing Islam to the Mangistau region of Kazakhstan. Probably around the 10th century, he was teaching from this series of caves. The land near the cave mosque has centuries of burials. The closest spots are the oldest graves, with some of his students being amongst those burials. Further away, more recent cemeteries have sprung up, and burials still do occur out here, miles from everything.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-3738264228572846812022-09-11T15:00:00.231+10:002024-01-20T02:45:58.597+11:00Yurting in Kazakhstan Nature<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">3 Sep to 10 Sep, 2022 - Almaty, Kolsay Lakes, Kaindy Lake, Saty, Tamgaly - (Kazakhstan)</span><br />
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Kazakhstan. It's been on our wishlist for quite some time. Should have happened earlier, but along came the unmentionable virus which saw the world go mental. It feels like it is on the way home from Italy, and geographically, it is. Logistically, though, it may as well be just about any where in the world, as the low number of connecting flights out of this part of the world mean we will have some long hauls to get us back to Australia.<br/>
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Things began a bit on the back foot. A cancelled flight out of Rome to Istanbul put us back 24 hours, although we did have some "fat" built in to the start of the adventure.<br/>
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Almaty felt instantly comfortable. Broad tree-lined streets, cosmopolitan dining, and helpful locals. Weather was perfect, but we know it does get a lot colder than we are accustomed to - I saw some very pretty pictures with deep snow. We walked town, we ate and we drank, we saw some sights.<br/>
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Shubat. We knew shubat was made from camel's milk. We erroneously thought it was just camel's milk. However, it is slightly fermented and fizzy. Although we didn't mind drinking it (a little like a fizzy drinking yoghurt), we did discover it is NOT good in your coffee!<br/>
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Daniel, who worked at the cafe next to the hotel, soon became our "Kazakh friend". Each time we came in the cafe, he greeted us with "good morning my Australian friends". His English was very good, and we chatted about a variety of topics. Including one which seems to have many Kazakh nationals worried about coming to Australia. Spiders. A number of locals have said they would be concerned if they came to Australia because we have so many spiders. This would not be a problem for Daniel, though, who shared a video of his pet bird eating spider. It did not have a name.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51551864"><img title="Market, Almaty" alt="Market, Almaty" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/64/51551864.fb52363e.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Market, Almaty</strong><br/> Day one in Almaty, after an all night flight and a morning dozey nap, we headed out on a perfect cultural immersion, the local produce market. While we had more colour splashed across the screen in some of our other photos, particularly the spices, this one stood out because of the beautiful faces.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51551866"><img title="Check Those Ribs" alt="Check Those Ribs" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/66/51551866.5fc3767a.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Check Those Ribs</strong><br/> When the ribs are that long and slim, you know you are in the horse meat section of the market.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51551868"><img title="Zenkov Cathedral, Almaty" alt="Zenkov Cathedral, Almaty" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/68/51551868.19199d75.500.jpg?r2" height="382" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Zenkov Cathedral, Almaty</strong><br/> One of the few buildings in Almaty from the "Tsarist" period. Built in the early twentieth century, entirely of wood, even using wooden fastenings instead of nails.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51551870"><img title="Pedestrian Underpass, Almaty" alt="Pedestrian Underpass, Almaty" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/70/51551870.61e2d833.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Pedestrian Underpass, Almaty</strong><br/> This beautiful mural decorated a pedestrian underpass beneath a busy intersection. Highly notable was the complete lack of graffiti.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51551876"><img title="Jo and a Famous Apple" alt="Jo and a Famous Apple" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/76/51551876.b6e7d437.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo and a Famous Apple</strong><br/> We have been led to believe that Almaty is noted for its very large apples. Eating an apple is a two person job, here.</small><br/> <br/>
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After a few days settling in to the time zone, the culture, the language, and the climate, we headed out of Almaty. We hired a 4WD, and made tracks for Kolsay lakes.<br/>
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Close to the lakes, there are a number of places that offer accommodation. There are a couple of fancy hotels, some large camping / cabin complexes, and at the simple end, some locals have yurts on their land. Driving past and looking back down, we saw a farm house with three or four yurts on the land, which looked like a nice and immersive set up. Pulling up at the house, we were greeted by an old lady and a kitten. Babushka and koshka. She led Jo to the main house, chatting away to her as if she could make sense of what she was relaying. In reality, all Jo really understood was babushka. But somehow, the interaction was quite bonding. Although it was daughter of babushka who ultimately showed us to a yurt and told us the cost, it was babushka herself who had made us instantly feel like this was the right place to stay.<br/>
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We gestured we wanted a meal, a dinner, and this is simple enough. Cup one hand as a bowl, and pretend to shovel food from imaginary bowl to mouth. She smiled, and nodded. Then we think she asked what we wanted. She listed lots of "things" that we might like to eat, or so we assumed. Not at all knowing, and definitely not caring, but just wanting to dine on what they do, we nodded along and gave an affirmative "Da" to everything she said. The meals we had (two dinners, two breakfasts) were all fantastic. She really treated us, and it felt authentic through and through.<br/>
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The yurt (or yurta) was beautiful. We learnt a few things about yurt etiquette - enter right foot first, bow your head a bit, and always greet when you come in, even if nobody is within. The traditional "hearth" in the middle of the yurt was, in our case, replaced with a low dining table. Mats and cushions of different thickness were available, and we dined and slept there for two nights. In the morning, we just swivelled 90 degrees on our matresses to face the table, and effectively had breakfast in bed.<br/>
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The day between those two nights was our hiking day. From Kolsai lake number one, to number two. It was further than we had anticipated, and this was not helped by a poor start when we struck off down the wrong side of the lake. A local boatman and his very young son took us across to the other side for a few dollars, saving us a lot of backtracking to start again.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51555590"><img title="Along the Way, Eastern Kazakhstan" alt="Along the Way, Eastern Kazakhstan" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/55/90/51555590.4eff12c4.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Along the Way, Eastern Kazakhstan</strong><br/> Possibly the Kolsay River? Anyway, we were driving to the Kolsay Lakes, and there was a bit of a spot on a bend where cars had parked, and it seemed like it might be interesting. And wow, there along the road was this rift through the land. So dramatically in contrast with the barren flatness that surrounded it.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51555612"><img title="Yurt is the Word" alt="Yurt is the Word" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/56/12/51555612.05e777d8.500.jpg?r2" height="181" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Yurt is the Word</strong><br/> Inside our yurt. It was basic, but comfortable. Uncomplicated, but warm. A table for meals in the centre, with cushions. Mats for sleeping. Thatās it. Drop toilet outside (and a little bit of a walk, thankfully).</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51555614"><img title="Dinner - Lamb (or Muitton?) Stew" alt="Dinner - Lamb (or Muitton?) Stew" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/56/14/51555614.3f598696.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Dinner - Lamb (or Muitton?) Stew</strong><br/> So, we gestured to the lady who owned the yurt, could we eat. She understood our gesture, and responded with a long list of things that we had no idea about. We guess she was asking us what we wanted or what we ate. We just shrugged, and nodded, somehow knowing it would work out well. And we were blown away by this amazingly tasty stew of tender meat.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51555616"><img title="Middle Kolsay Lake" alt="Middle Kolsay Lake" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/56/16/51555616.a794c313.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Middle Kolsay Lake</strong><br/> I think we walked about 10 or 11 km from the lower Kolsay Lake (and then repeated it to get back). Mainly sunny, other than a half hour of rain and hail - well, that's mountain weather, I guess. Found a Kazakh couple who were going at a similar pace to us, so we passed them, and they then us, multiple times, and it was really nice to get to know them a bit (her English was pretty good). Anyway, the worst weather was when we we got close to the lake, so we sheltered and ate lunch for a bit, and in a short break got to enjoy the spectacular views.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51555618"><img title="Lower Kolsay Lake" alt="Lower Kolsay Lake" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/56/18/51555618.39920151.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Lower Kolsay Lake</strong><br/> After completing the 20-something kilometre walk, we treated ourselves to some drinks at this viewpoint over the lower lake.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51555620"><img title="Dinner, the Next Night" alt="Dinner, the Next Night" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/56/20/51555620.b726d082.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Dinner, the Next Night</strong><br/> Home made "manty", a Kazakh equivalent to momos. I am not sure why I am looking so shifty...</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51555622"><img title="Our Hosts" alt="Our Hosts" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/56/22/51555622.2516a3f5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Our Hosts</strong><br/> The lady in the middle, self proclaimed babushka, was sitting on the step of the house when we pulled up. Jo went and began asking her about a yurt, but she just apologised multiple times and got her daughter to come out, who was not much better at English, but a lot better at gestures and guessing. We got there.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51557340"><img title="You can Lead a Horse ..." alt="You can Lead a Horse ..." src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/40/51557340.116a01e5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>You can Lead a Horse ā¦</strong></small><br/> <br/>
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Near the Kolsay Lakes, and still in the same national park, is Lake Kaindy. At this point, we were very glad we had a four wheel drive. Visiting this lake in a regular car would be a risky undertaking, especially with two river crossings involved.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51557346"><img title="An Eagle at Lake Kaindy" alt="An Eagle at Lake Kaindy" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/46/51557346.cbe748f6.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>An Eagle at Lake Kaindy</strong><br/> The "handler" of this eagle seemed to show so much devotion and affection to his bird, it was touching. The bird responded to his voice, turning around and stepping out when requested. Yes, it was reasonably heavy - I could not hold that pose for too long. </small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51557348"><img title="Lake Kaindy, Kazakhstan" alt="Lake Kaindy, Kazakhstan" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/48/51557348.d3033b86.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Lake Kaindy, Kazakhstan</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51557350"><img title="Submerged Spruces, Lake Kaindy" alt="Submerged Spruces, Lake Kaindy" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/50/51557350.75b625c6.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Submerged Spruces, Lake Kaindy</strong><br/> We did read the spruces became submerged after an earthquake, but that is not confirmed, nor when. Below the waterline, the trees appear to be preserved in situ.</small><br/> <br/>
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Final stop on our four day explore of this nook of eastern Kazakhstan, Charyn Canyon. Still a bit stiff from our longer than expected hike two days earlier, we set off on yet another longer than expected walk at the canyon. Thankfully there were not too many ascents or descents, but we tackled each steep stretch like a pair of Thunderbird puppets. It was generally quite exposed, and fairly hot in the baking sun. Despite the heat and our sore limbs, it was incredibly rewarding to complete both the upper and lower canyon walks.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51557352"><img title="Charyn Canyon" alt="Charyn Canyon" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/52/51557352.67e0e7b7.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Charyn Canyon</strong><br/> Looking down to Charyn Canyon from the rim. After parking, we walked a few kilometres along the top to various viewpoints and lookouts, taking in the "valley of the castles" </small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51557354"><img title="Walking Through Valley of the Castles" alt="Walking Through Valley of the Castles" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/54/51557354.6d65d057.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Walking Through Valley of the Castles</strong><br/> Looking up at the beautiful formations of Charyn Canyon. We pointed at rocks giving our interpretations. A face, a cat, a teddy bear. Actually, quite a few cats! </small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51557356"><img title="Crashed Spaceship" alt="Crashed Spaceship" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/73/56/51557356.cc2dfa50.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Crashed Spaceship</strong><br/> My interpretation of this rock formation in Charyn Canyon.</small><br/> <br/>
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Then it was time to head a little west. A night on the outskirts of Almaty, and then an early start to get to Tamgaly for the Unesco Heritage petroglyphs.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51559188"><img title="No Space Left" alt="No Space Left" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/91/88/51559188.293b46d0.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>No Space Left</strong><br/> Petroglyphs at Tamgaly. Some rock faces had so many etched in to the rocks, that there really was no space for any more. Many animal motifs, mostly goats and horses and similar. One or two predators were depicted, and even at one place there was a turtle! Not a lot of human figures, although a few were depicted riding horses.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51559190"><img title="Some Beautiful Details in the Antlers" alt="Some Beautiful Details in the Antlers" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/91/90/51559190.8e4da18a.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Some Beautiful Details in the Antlers</strong><br/> A magnificent petroglyph of a deer, with wonderfully carved antlers. Below, probably a mountain goat. Tamgaly, Kazakhstan.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51559192"><img title="Pregnant Cow" alt="Pregnant Cow" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/91/92/51559192.39a0c045.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Pregnant Cow</strong><br/> This very unusual petroglyph at Tamgaly shows a pregnant cow.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51559194"><img title="People Celebrate a Sun Headed God" alt="People Celebrate a Sun Headed God" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/91/94/51559194.1d0c1d94.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>People Celebrate a Sun Headed God</strong><br/> The people at the bottom of the rock appear to be dancing, or worshipping, and other figures are involved, including animals. Towards the top is a got with the sun for a head.</small><br/> <br/>
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Five wonderful days, incident free. There was one close call, though, when we almost ran out of petrol. There must have been only fumes left in the tank. The needle dropped a long way below empty, and I coasted and nursed the economy however I could, praying for Elijah's oil. Finally, long after I thought we were going to be stranded, we rolled in to a petrol station. Praise the Lord.<br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Almaty, Kazakhstan43.2220146 76.851248514.911780763821156 41.6949985 71.532248436178847 112.0074985tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-443493546387793782022-09-01T01:00:00.001+10:002022-09-01T01:19:40.677+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - Last Events<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">6 Jul to 31 Aug, 2022 - Bomba (and surrounds), Pacentro - (Italy)</span><br />
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So, it comes to our final weeks in Abruzzo, this time anyway. Running around and trying to do final catch ups with our friends has worn us out, and we have both come down with chest infections. Not a great way to finish, but the price paid for doing too much, I think.<br/>
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We apologise to those we had to cancel, and we are so appreciative of the time we got to spend with those that we did squeeze in.<br/>
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The deal is, we are heading back to Australia for our next season. Our home in Bomba is to be rented out, to a wonderful lady called Minna. She is beginning a new season in her life, and we feel so confident that she and our house are a perfect match. However, this is not the status quo. We will return to Bomba in due course, maybe spending our lives part and part, or something like that. We'll work it out.<br/>
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This week, though, sees us heading on an adventure. We will travel for some weeks, en route back to the Land Down Under. Please stay tuned as our blog really kicks off again.<br/>
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In the meantime, here are a few pics of us filling in July and August. Bomba was like a sponge in this period. First it swelled to bursting as holiday makers, as well as family of residents, moved in to most of the homes in town. Parking became near impossible, and reservations were required for the tables in the piazza. Events were organised, the highlight being the gastronomic stalls and bands. We ate stupid quantities of food with friends and neighbours, old and new. Many toasts were proposed, and tears were shed at the thought of saying goodbye. And again, just like a sponge drying out, slowly things returned to how they were. Locals breathed a big sigh at the realisation of a returning Bomba normality.<br/><br/>
We could have tried to put up some gathering pictures, but how many pages of us with friends and food could we risk? You know what the scenes look like. Tables spread with copious quantities of plates and bottles, surronded by smiling people you've never seen before raising a glass to the camera.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51465062"><img title="Clambering on Art" alt="Clambering on Art" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/50/62/51465062.d61eb7b9.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Clambering on Art</strong><br/> Buonanotte is an abandoned village near our home. A number of art installations are dotted around the village. With Jax and Steve.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51525912"><img title="Pumping Wine from a Bowser" alt="Pumping Wine from a Bowser" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/59/12/51525912.8813db45.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Pumping Wine from a Bowser</strong><br/> When you need a good amount of wine, by the litre, drop in to the local Cantina and bring your own container.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51525940"><img title="Caparezza, Live, Pescara, 2022" alt="Caparezza, Live, Pescara, 2022" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/59/40/51525940.87217cd0.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Caparezza, Live, Pescara, 2022</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51525942"><img title="Caparezza Raps to the Crowd" alt="Caparezza Raps to the Crowd" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/59/42/51525942.95634724.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Caparezza Raps to the Crowd</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51525944">CLICK FOR VIDEO<br/>Jo joins the Audience Going Big for Caparezza<br/>CLICK FOR VIDEO</a><br/><small><strong>Jo joins the Audience Going Big for Caparezza</strong><br/>
The best thing about the concert was how much the crowd got into it. The atmosphere was amazing.</small><br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51532964"><img title="Our Ceiling Gets the Michelangelo Touch" alt="Our Ceiling Gets the Michelangelo Touch" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/29/64/51532964.dd2d4d59.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Our Ceiling Gets the Michelangelo Touch</strong><br/> Our upstairs room received a new paint job, and new colour scheme. Jo had plans for the ceiling, and through a friend, we were introduced to a local artist who came and did an amazing "flourish" in each corner. We love the result.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51532966"><img title="Bomba Gastronomic Event" alt="Bomba Gastronomic Event" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/29/66/51532966.1da969b4.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bomba Gastronomic Event</strong><br/> There were 14 or so stalls, scattered through the old town of Bomba. All sorts of food and drink choices, and thousands of people. An amazing feeling to find Bomba full, bustling, so alive. The traditional events are returning.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51532968"><img title="And Bands Played" alt="And Bands Played" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/29/68/51532968.f322f212.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>And Bands Played</strong><br/> Even if we had wanted to go home early, it would have been a challenge. Walking through the centro storico on my way to get some food, I came to our house to find musicians set up on the steps.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51532978"><img title="Jo's Ready to Go" alt="Jo's Ready to Go" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/29/78/51532978.60e979f3.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="375" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo's Ready to Go</strong><br/> I don't know if she was using us as a distraction to what was about to happen, but she looks like she's having fun.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51532980"><img title="Jo Descending Past Pacentro" alt="Jo Descending Past Pacentro" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/29/80/51532980.291af635.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo Descending Past Pacentro</strong><br/> The start was gentle enough, and it meant there was time to take in what was happening. Enjoy the view, and relish the ride.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51532982">CLICK FOR VIDEO<br/>Setting Off Down the Line<br/>CLICK FOR VIDEO</a><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51532984"><img title="Bring it on!" alt="Bring it on!" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/29/84/51532984.101dc15c.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bring it on!</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51532986"><img title="Bottom of the Zipline, Coming in past Pacentro" alt="Bottom of the Zipline, Coming in past Pacentro" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/29/86/51532986.56ddaeeb.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bottom of the Zipline, Coming in past Pacentro</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51532988"><img title="The Fearless Six" alt="The Fearless Six" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/29/88/51532988.4d573dd2.500.jpg?r2" height="375" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Fearless Six</strong><br/> Myself, Tim, Jo, Kate, Katie, and Paul</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51532990"><img title="Wandering Pacentro" alt="Wandering Pacentro" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/29/90/51532990.b8fcd31f.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="375" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Wandering Pacentro</strong><br/> Post zipline, exploring the delightful town of Pacentro.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51533014"><img title="Neighbours, August" alt="Neighbours, August" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/30/14/51533014.62d4ff27.500.jpg?r2" height="269" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Neighbours, August</strong><br/> So, Bomba filled up for August with all sorts of Randoms. This household was a combination of some with holiday homes here, and some extended family. Smelling a barbecue on, I peered over our terrace to sticky-beak. I was spotted, conversed with, and minutes later, we were invited in for a drink. Which became a few, some bruschetta, a glass or three of wine, spaghetti ragout, and grappa to chase it all down. We brought some home made chocolate icecream. A memorable dinner indeed... although I do struggle to remember the exact manner in which it wrapped up!</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com066042 Bomba, Province of Chieti, Italy42.034595499999988 14.366398313.724361663821142 -20.7898517 70.344829336178833 49.5226483tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-8875157214467415482022-08-07T01:00:00.021+10:002022-08-23T20:48:26.575+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - Dutch Family<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">30 Jun to 5 Jul, 2022 - Goes, Ellewoutsdijk, Amsterdam, Heerhugowaard, Leiden, Nieuwegen, Utrecht, Best - (The Netherlands)</span><br />
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The pace was far more hectic than either of us would have chosen, but trying to arrange visits with family at times which suited each household did add a difficulty factor to the planning.<br/>
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A significant reason to come to NL was to bring a tiny urn of my father's ashes to his land of birth. On a cold and blustery summer morning (yes, I said it right), we reunited him with Zeeland.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51449706"><img title="With Ronald, and Cousin Inez" alt="With Ronald, and Cousin Inez" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/97/06/51449706.714623f3.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>With Ronald, and Cousin Inez</strong><br/> Inez is the about the only cousin on my father's side of the family with whom we have any contact. We stayed with them in Goes, close to where my father was born and grew up.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51449708"><img title="Stefan and Joep" alt="Stefan and Joep" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/97/08/51449708.e39fda57.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Stefan and Joep</strong><br/> Breakfast time.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51449710"><img title="Goes" alt="Goes" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/97/10/51449710.0401e99f.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Goes</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51449712"><img title="Returning my Father to Ellewoutsdijk" alt="Returning my Father to Ellewoutsdijk" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/97/12/51449712.7d4dc6e0.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="282" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Returning my Father to Ellewoutsdijk</strong><br/> So, we had a very small amount of my Dad's ashes in a tiny urn, which we decided to bring to his home town of Ellewoutsdijk. In classic Zeeland fashion, the blustery wind brought some cold rain showers, adding an appropriate atmosphere to the occasion. So we left him there, on the dike, where he would have played as a child and first dreamt of taking to the sea.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51450676"><img title="Dinner, Abcoude" alt="Dinner, Abcoude" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/06/76/51450676.90a68795.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Dinner, Abcoude</strong><br/> Dinner with Oom Jan, cousin Vera, and her kids Tessa and Dion</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51450678"><img title="Cat joins an Exhausted Tessa" alt="Cat joins an Exhausted Tessa" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/06/78/51450678.156d7810.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Cat joins an Exhausted Tessa</strong><br/> During our long evening, Tessa slipped off to sleep. The cat decided she would be comfortable.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51450680"><img title="Breakfast at Vera's" alt="Breakfast at Vera's" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/06/80/51450680.f2932090.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Breakfast at Vera's</strong><br/> With Dion, Tessa, and Nick.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51464042"><img title="Street Artist Sand Sculpture" alt="Street Artist Sand Sculpture" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/40/42/51464042.c0e35e45.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Street Artist Sand Sculpture</strong><br/> In the street, Leiden, the guy was making a most extraordinary sand sculpture. A real dog came over and sniffed a little apprehensively at it.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51464044"><img title="Leiden Waterways" alt="Leiden Waterways" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/40/44/51464044.675c46dd.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Leiden Waterways</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51464046"><img title="Catch up with Sharon" alt="Catch up with Sharon" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/40/46/51464046.d545a09f.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Catch up with Sharon</strong><br/> Sharon, a friend from years ago in Melbourne. Currently living in her home country, she came to Leiden to meet us for lunch, a walk, and plenty of eating and drinking.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51464048"><img title="Leiden Canal and Windmill" alt="Leiden Canal and Windmill" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/40/48/51464048.a25165aa.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Leiden Canal and Windmill</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51464934"><img title="Cousin Daan, with Bobbie" alt="Cousin Daan, with Bobbie" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/34/51464934.13b77451.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Cousin Daan, with Bobbie</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51464936"><img title="Utrecht Central Library" alt="Utrecht Central Library" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/36/51464936.fef2e6f0.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Utrecht Central Library</strong><br/> Formerly the post office, this magnificent public space was a fun place to spend an hour or so. Lots of nooks to explore, and details only noticed when looking through a room for the third or fourth time. Although the building pre dates the period, the overall feel was quite Art Deco (although some features did make me think more along the lines of Art Nouveau).</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51464938"><img title="Bitterballen with Rianne" alt="Bitterballen with Rianne" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/38/51464938.44569c0f.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bitterballen with Rianne</strong><br/> A classic Dutch accompaniment to any drink. Crumbed and fried beefy balls. So tasty.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51464940"><img title="No Denying which Country we are in." alt="No Denying which Country we are in." src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/40/51464940.2ea9587f.500.jpg?r2" height="245" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>No Denying which Country we are in.</strong><br/> Canal trip in Utrecht.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51464942"><img title="Pre dinner" alt="Pre dinner" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/42/51464942.700b6256.500.jpg?r2" height="442" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Pre dinner</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51464944"><img title="Afghan restaurant" alt="Afghan restaurant" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/49/44/51464944.2eb9c339.500.jpg?r2" height="284" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Afghan restaurant</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51465004"><img title="Tante Riet with Jo" alt="Tante Riet with Jo" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/50/04/51465004.426e80ee.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Tante Riet with Jo</strong><br/> Between eating and drinking at various establishments.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51465006"><img title="Marc, Jo, Wim" alt="Marc, Jo, Wim" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/50/06/51465006.b9ca5a37.500.jpg?r2" height="375" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Marc, Jo, Wim</strong><br/> Best was our last stop for the Netherlands. We flew out of Eindhoven, back to Rome.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Best, Netherlands51.5077637 5.397848225.391587699086667 -29.7584018 77.623939700913326 40.5540982tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-54437120713308729392022-07-01T19:33:00.047+10:002022-08-28T19:10:53.502+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - German Visits<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">20 to 30 Jun, 2022 - Prague, Cheb, Auerbach, Erfurt, Frankfurt, Friedrichsdorf - (Czech, Germany)</span><br />
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With a possible return to Australia looming, it seemed that Jo's birthday was a great excuse to head out of Italy. We started with a bargain flight to Prague, and four days in Czech.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51434536"><img title="Prague's Beautiful Astronomical Clock" alt="Prague's Beautiful Astronomical Clock" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/45/36/51434536.f7103f9f.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Prague's Beautiful Astronomical Clock</strong><br/> This clock shows: Modern time (24 hours, set on Central European Time) Ancient Bohemian Time (24 hours from sunset every day, so changes day by day) Unequal Hours (when the day and night were divided into 12 each, meaning the length changes day by day, and is different from day to night) Position of sun and moon in sky. How much day / night to expect today, with sunrise and sunset readable. Phase of the moon. The calendar dial shows the day of the month and year, and which zodiac sign is current. And every hour, animated statues of the apostles come out.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51434538"><img title="Charles Bridge, Prague" alt="Charles Bridge, Prague" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/45/38/51434538.7609de1d.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Charles Bridge, Prague</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51434540"><img title="Tower Restaurant" alt="Tower Restaurant" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/45/40/51434540.7388aef4.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="319" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Tower Restaurant</strong><br/> Restaurant Zvonice occupies the 7th and 8th floors of a historic Prague tower. A wonderfully decadent way to celebrate Jo's birthday.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51434542"><img title="Birthday Celebration Dinner" alt="Birthday Celebration Dinner" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/45/42/51434542.cbcb5294.500.jpg?r2" height="418" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Birthday Celebration Dinner</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51437094"><img title="B'n'B View over Cheb" alt="Bn'B View over Cheb" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/70/94/51437094.002e3e1b.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>B'n'B View over Cheb</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51437096"><img title="Cheb, from the Tower in Cheb Castle" alt="Cheb, from the Tower in Cheb Castle" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/70/96/51437096.a0307248.500.jpg?r2" height="372" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Cheb, from the Tower in Cheb Castle</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51437098"><img title="Wooden Covered Bridge" alt="Wooden Covered Bridge" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/70/98/51437098.e0c7bded.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Wooden Covered Bridge</strong><br/> A delightful bridge, over the OhÅe river, in Cheb.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51437100"><img title="Cheb - Main Square" alt="Cheb - Main Square" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/71/00/51437100.2a142905.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Cheb - Main Square</strong><br/> Cheb in the western part of Czech, was a convenient stop on our journey from Prague to our friends in Germany. Much less touristy than Prague, and consequently much cheaper. Still, though, it oozed charm and character. It was a great town for a night on our journey across.</small><br/> <br/>
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Many train journeys were appended to each other to allow us to hop across Germany. Each stop was chosen on the basis of catching up with friends. We ate, we laughed, we drank, and we reconnected. <br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438012"><img title="Kerkermeister" alt="Kerkermeister" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/80/12/51438012.d9bf4a8e.500.jpg?r2" height="466" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Kerkermeister</strong><br/> The Kerdermeister building. Our friends, Adam and Annett, occupy a large part of this historic building in the centre of Auerbach. Slowly, they are increasing the number of rooms available for rent in the pension. Adam runs his language school, which at times includes cooking lessons, and these happen here as well. We pray their businesses and endeavours in this building will be truly blessed.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438014"><img title="Adam Finds his inner Villain" alt="Adam Finds his inner Villain" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/80/14/51438014.be2f6726.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Adam Finds his inner Villain</strong><br/> We hope none of the buttons really bring death and destruction. Unlikely, as it was in a disused historic part of an old brewery, but I guess you never really know. Adam and Annett brought us here on the pretence of doing a tour. What they withheld was the fact that Adam was to be our tour guide. He was contacted and asked if he would do the occasional tour in English - he jumped at the opportunity. This day, it was a private tour.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438016"><img title="Tasting Platter of Beers" alt="Tasting Platter of Beers" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/80/16/51438016.41f285f6.500.jpg?r2" height="375" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Tasting Platter of Beers</strong><br/> What better way to finish a brewery tour than with multiple examples of the product.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438018"><img title="At the Top of the Church Tower" alt="At the Top of the Church Tower" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/80/18/51438018.41ad707b.500.jpg?r2" height="315" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>At the Top of the Church Tower</strong><br/> We ascended the tower for the view. Adam had arranged for us to gain access, at the same time as some of the members of the church also ascended. They set up their music stands, and they played hymns. It was so beautiful in the afternoon light, with the extensive views, with the music pouring out over the town.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438020"><img title="Descending" alt="Descending" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/80/20/51438020.a69a6375.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="375" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Descending</strong><br/> Coming down the St Laurentius tower.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438022"><img title="Breakfast, Kerkermeister Style" alt="Breakfast, Kerkermeister Style" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/80/22/51438022.fbc07724.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="375" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Breakfast, Kerkermeister Style</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438024"><img title="Lake Excursion, with Adam and Annett" alt="Lake Excursion, with Adam and Annett" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/80/24/51438024.defb9f8f.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Lake Excursion, with Adam and Annett</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438026"><img title="Adam's Office" alt="Adam's Office" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/80/26/51438026.fcd32375.500.jpg?r2" height="375" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Adam's Office</strong><br/> Adam's office, workspace, and classroom. Another beautiful space in the Kerkermeister building.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438110"><img title="KrƤmerbrĆ¼cke, Erfurt" alt="KrƤmerbrĆ¼cke, Erfurt" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/10/51438110.e98eae04.500.jpg?r2" height="480" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>KrƤmerbrĆ¼cke, Erfurt</strong><br/> Known as the Merchant's bridge, it is billed as the "longest series of inhabited buildings on a bridge, in Europe'. Make of that what you will.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438116"><img title="Jo in Markt" alt="Jo in Markt" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/16/51438116.c32dfbc4.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo in Markt</strong><br/> Frankfurt.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438118"><img title="Frankfurt Dinner" alt="Frankfurt Dinner" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/18/51438118.83c41404.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Frankfurt Dinner</strong><br/> Pork Knuckle and a Schnitzel. That;s the food, not our nick namesā¦</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438120"><img title="Frankfurt Square" alt="Frankfurt Square" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/20/51438120.1bc7bc94.500.jpg?r2" height="203" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Frankfurt Square</strong><br/> Rƶmerberg timber houses to the left. Frankfurter Rƶmer to the right. Alte Nikolaikirche behind. Fountain of Justice in the middle.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438122"><img title="Enjoying a Stein" alt="Enjoying a Stein" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/22/51438122.da1bf499.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Enjoying a Stein</strong><br/> Town square, Frankfurt, with an afternoon beer. Perfect.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51438124"><img title="Late" alt="Late" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/81/24/51438124.db7cecc5.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Late</strong><br/> This is what you end up with when you leave taking a photo until it is too dark. With Marlene and Dirk in Friedrichsdorf.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Auerbach, Germany50.5079692 12.398137326.937481288883458 -22.758112699999998 74.078457111116535 47.5543873tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-89280861218410672352022-06-19T19:32:00.041+10:002022-07-25T17:16:22.414+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - Involvement<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">14 May to 19 Jun, 2022 - Bomba (and surrounds), Vasto, Pennadomo, Scanno, Roccascalegna - (Italy)</span><br />
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Kristy came to visit for almost a week. With no agenda, and no particular list of places to go, we were able to squeeze in a number of local highlights and show some of the best of the area. It was a very pleasant way to host a guest. Kristy lived with us for some time a number of years ago in Richmond, and we also spent a couple weeks on the road with her in Paraguay and Brasil at one point.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51379578"><img title="Kristy and Jo, Vasto" alt="Kristy and Jo, Vasto" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/95/78/51379578.48b357e6.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Kristy and Jo, Vasto</strong><br/> Vasto is a nice city, with a great old town feel, good dining options, and a cool breeze from high on the hill above the ocean.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51379580"><img title="From Pennadomo" alt="From Pennadomo" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/95/80/51379580.239fe052.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>From Pennadomo</strong><br/> On the rock peak, above Pennadomo. Looking back at Bomba and its lake.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51379582"><img title="Obligatory Stop" alt="Obligatory Stop" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/95/82/51379582.fe5ef9fb.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Obligatory Stop</strong><br/> We do have such a fondness of this spot with this wonderful angle of the castle of Roccascalegna. Every visitor must expect we will come to this bend in the road!</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51379584"><img title="Kristy and Jo at Lago di Scanno" alt="Kristy and Jo at Lago di Scanno" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/95/84/51379584.0b5a2681.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="375" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Kristy and Jo at Lago di Scanno</strong><br/> A selfie for the two girls with the heart of Lake Scanno. For a little while it seemed they were not going to make it, as they came from the wrong direction and doggedly had to make their way through the undergrowth.</small><br/> <br/>
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Over the top of this, life continued to tick over in Bomba.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51430476"><img title="San Mauro" alt="San Mauro" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/04/76/51430476.7d9e9e00.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>San Mauro</strong><br/> San Mauro is carried from the church in Bomba to the sanctuary below. This is the weekend of the feast of San Mauro.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51430478"><img title="The Faithful" alt="The Faithful" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/04/78/51430478.157011b6.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Faithful</strong><br/> Many walk ahead of the saint, while the stronger and able bodied men walk alongside the saint, swapping every few hundred metres to share the load.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51430480"><img title="Bringing San Mauro into the Sanctuary" alt="Bringing San Mauro into the Sanctuary" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/04/80/51430480.d363c27c.500.jpg?r2" height="375" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bringing San Mauro into the Sanctuary</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51430482"><img title="Another Community Day" alt="Another Community Day" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/04/82/51430482.0aa2f849.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Another Community Day</strong><br/> Held at the next town around, a day to collect rubbish from the lake shores.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51431882"><img title="Visiting Roccascalegna" alt="Visiting Roccascalegna" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/82/51431882.f0221665.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Visiting Roccascalegna</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51431884"><img title="Designs on the Streets" alt="Designs on the Streets" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/84/51431884.603aa39e.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Designs on the Streets</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51431886"><img title="Roccascalegna Flower Festival" alt="Roccascalegna Flower Festival" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/86/51431886.c76b91e2.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Roccascalegna Flower Festival</strong><br/> Images on the streets made predominantly with flower petals.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com066042 Bomba, Province of Chieti, Italy42.034595499999988 14.366398313.724361663821142 -20.7898517 70.344829336178833 49.5226483tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-17936724102044434782022-05-15T22:41:00.052+10:002022-06-12T01:19:16.951+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - Pink<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">19 Apr to 13 May, 2022 - Bomba (and surrounds), Torino - (Italy)</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346592"><img title="Another Day, Another Photo of Maiella" alt="Another Day, Another Photo of Maiella" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/65/92/51346592.0bff4266.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Another Day, Another Photo of Maiella</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346594"><img title="A Mural for Bomba, Courtesy of Perry" alt="A Mural for Bomba, Courtesy of Perry" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/65/94/51346594.fafb53d4.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Mural for Bomba, Courtesy of Perry</strong><br/> This fantastic portrait of former Bomba resident Silvio Spaventa was completed just in time for his 200th birthday. Current Bomba resident, Perry Sullivan, worked hard to ensure it was ready. I really like the style he has used to honour this former politician and journalist.</small><br/> <br/>
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It seems there is a clear divide with few taking the middle ground. There are those who are jealous we went to Eurovision, and those who scratch their heads in bewilderment. When it first dawned on us that going to Eurovision was a real possibility, with Italy hosting it for 2022, we investigated. We assumed the opportunity had been missed. We thought we had left it too late. No, we registered, and then forgot. Suddenly, out of the blue, we received an email announcing ticket sales were coming up. On the designated morning, at the prescribed time, the two of us were madly clicking in and out of screens, using multiple devices, watching tickets disappear as soon as we selected them. Obviously thousands of others were doing likewise, as tickets which were all gone came back and then went away again. Suddenly, Jo had two tickets held. A countdown kept us on our toes, with a time required to complete registration, payment, authorisation codes sent to phones and emails, but we did it.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346760"><img title="Our Reason for Coming to Turin" alt="Our Reason for Coming to Turin" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/60/51346760.85cbcdd7.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Our Reason for Coming to Turin</strong><br/> Getting tickets was no mean feat. I was in queues on multiple devices, and suddenly Jo had luck on her computer, and we didn't have long to think about if we were happy with the seating or that performance, we just knew if we turned them down, we would be unlikely to get another pair.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346762"><img title="Waiting for the Show to Begin" alt="Waiting for the Show to Begin" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/62/51346762.60e87f75.500.jpg?r2" height="300" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Waiting for the Show to Begin</strong><br/> In our seats, Eurovision styled.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346764"><img title="We were Rapt with our Seats" alt="We were Rapt with our Seats" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/64/51346764.37cedaad.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>We were Rapt with our Seats</strong><br/> Only a few rows back, behind the "green room" on the floor of the arena. Eurovision was an experience so much fuller than any broadcast version could possibly be.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346766"><img title="Aussie Aussie Aussie" alt="Aussie Aussie Aussie" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/66/51346766.1fcf4656.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Aussie Aussie Aussie</strong><br/> Sheldon Riley performing, representing Australia in Eurovision. We were astounded at the amount of Australian representation in the crowd. Everywhere we looked, we could pick out Aussie flags. So awesome to see so many out there supporting our entry.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346768"><img title="We Loved the Eurovision Staging" alt="We Loved the Eurovision Staging" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/68/51346768.ccd803ae.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>We Loved the Eurovision Staging</strong></small><br/> <br/>
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While in town, a bit of sight seeing was certainly not out of the question.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346754"><img title="Typical Turin" alt="Typical Turin" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/54/51346754.f6646e93.500.jpg?r2" height="285" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Typical Turin</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346756"><img title="Pink is the New Black" alt="Pink is the New Black" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/56/51346756.11a82ae6.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Pink is the New Black</strong><br/> It is hard, sometimes, being such a trend setter.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346758"><img title="Mole Antonelliana" alt="Mole Antonelliana" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/58/51346758.143e32cb.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Mole Antonelliana</strong><br/> The iconic 19th century landmark building of Turin.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346770"><img title="Espresso Jo" alt="Espresso Jo" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/70/51346770.049f56a7.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Espresso Jo</strong><br/> Taking a break during our visit to the Lavazza Coffee museum.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346772"><img title="Lunching on Local Specialities" alt="Lunching on Local Specialities" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/72/51346772.843dcdfe.500.jpg?r2" height="354" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Lunching on Local Specialities</strong><br/> We found a great atmosphere at a restaurant along a portico. We had come armed with a list of "must try" foods, that a Bomba friend had equipped Jo with. OK, so we didn't try them all, but three of them did find their way on to our table for subsequent demolishing.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346774"><img title="Piazza San Carlo in Torino" alt="Piazza San Carlo in Torino" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/67/74/51346774.fa48f605.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Piazza San Carlo in Torino</strong><br/> An atmospheric historical square, surrounded by 17th century Baroque buildings.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Turin, Metropolitan City of Turin, Italy45.0703393 7.68686416.760105463821155 -27.469386 73.380573136178839 42.843114tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-6989624955763339672022-04-20T21:26:00.087+10:002022-07-25T01:06:39.321+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - Foreign Stops<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">9 to 18 Apr, 2022 - Bratislava, Ptuj, Ljubljana, Udine, San Daniele del Friuli, Bologna - (Slovakia, Slovenia, Italy)</span><br />
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<iframe height="350" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=13raemhyIzL5LbNenNAc_Uc7PSfvMufkD&ll=46.54392041676461%2C14.915969906271565&z=6" width="425"></iframe><br />
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Our return trip, Budapest to Bomba, was broken in to a number of stages. We traversed most legs of the journey by train, relying on bus in two instances only.
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Bratislava just turned out to be a natural stop, as most travel options from Budapest suggested this routing, with a change effected in the capital of Slovakia. Given that we have only been here once before, and it was only a brief stop way back in the 1990's, we relished the opportunity to return and make it feel more completed.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324102"><img title="Pharmacy in Bratislava" alt="Pharmacy in Bratislava" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/02/51324102.b9057961.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Pharmacy in Bratislava</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324104"><img title="Bratislava's Old Town Hall" alt="Bratislava's Old Town Hall" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/04/51324104.ea169712.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bratislava's Old Town Hall</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324106"><img title="The Blue Church" alt="The Blue Church" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/06/51324106.311ed481.500.jpg?r2" height="371" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Blue Church</strong><br/> Turn of last century, Art Nouveau church in Bratislava.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324108"><img title="Antique Shop, Doubles as a Cafe and Bar" alt="Antique Shop, Doubles as a Cafe and Bar" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/08/51324108.a8e4d750.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Antique Shop, Doubles as a Cafe and Bar</strong></small><br/> <br/>
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We would find it impossible to travel so near, and not make time for Slovenia.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324126"><img title="Our Favourite Slovenian Dish" alt="Our Favourite Slovenian Dish" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/26/51324126.94a7553a.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Our Favourite Slovenian Dish</strong><br/> Small calamari, stuffed with cheese and prosciutto, fried in garlic.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324128"><img title="Old Town of Ptuj" alt="Old Town of Ptuj" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/28/51324128.dafca912.500.jpg?r2" height="131" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Old Town of Ptuj</strong><br/> We love Ptuj. This is our third visit.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324130"><img title="Ptuj" alt="Ptuj" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/30/51324130.31d2737d.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ptuj</strong></small><br/> <br/>
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Visit number seven for the enchanting city of Ljubljana.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324152"><img title="Our Return Guarantee" alt="Our Return Guarantee" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/52/51324152.c4550dc5.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Our Return Guarantee</strong><br/> The tradition states that touching the dragons on Dragon Bridge guarantees a return visit to Ljubljana. It has worked every time so far, so we wouldn't dream of skipping this routine. We greet them like old friends, and I'm sure they remember us.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324154"><img title="European Beaver" alt="European Beaver" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/54/51324154.68acca33.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/> <small><strong>European Beaver</strong><br/> On the river bank, beneath the Triple Bridge in Downtown Ljubljana.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324156"><img title="We Spent the Day Cycling" alt="We Spent the Day Cycling" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/56/51324156.de19d594.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>We Spent the Day Cycling</strong><br/> We wound along the river banks, as much as we could, and spent a few hours heading out of the central area.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324158"><img title="A Beer to Finish Our Ride" alt="A Beer to Finish Our Ride" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/58/51324158.2522b8c5.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Beer to Finish Our Ride</strong><br/> PreŔeren Trg, after a moderate day pedalling.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324160"><img title="Breakfast, Ljubljana" alt="Breakfast, Ljubljana" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/60/51324160.f8d7f1ff.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Breakfast, Ljubljana</strong><br/> We had a few hours to kill before our bus. So a lazy late breakfast on the river front seemed ideal.</small><br/> <br/>
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Routings from Ljubljana generally suggested the coastal city, Trieste, as a waypoint. We decided that underrated Udine offered something different, especially after the glowing review from our Italian friend, Giovanni.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346276"><img title="Piazza della LibertĆ , Udine" alt="Piazza della LibertĆ , Udine" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/62/76/51346276.acc4da4c.500.jpg?r2" height="216" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Piazza della LibertĆ , Udine</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346278"><img title="View from Udine Castle" alt="View from Udine Castle" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/62/78/51346278.4c335fd9.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>View from Udine Castle</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346280"><img title="Silhouette in Udine" alt="Silhouette in Udine" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/62/80/51346280.584b13af.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Silhouette in Udine</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346282"><img title="Prosciutto" alt="Prosciutto" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/62/82/51346282.4b6308fc.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Prosciutto</strong><br/> Near Udine, around an hour by bus, is the village of San Daniele del Friuli. Known for its prosciutto, it is obviously a great stop for a lunch or aperitivo. We visited two prosciutterie in the town. One was a smaller operation, with a family business feel. We had wine and a platter at the attached restaurant, and toured the curing legs. The second was a much larger scale, run by a multinational company, with a small museum and a large outlet shop.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346284"><img title="Good Friday in Udine" alt="Good Friday in Udine" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/62/84/51346284.f083dc62.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Good Friday in Udine</strong><br/> We went to the cathedral, where a crowd of the faithful had gathered, to follow the crucifix through the streets of Udine. Candles and flaming torches were handed out as we left the piazza. Every now and then the procession would stop for a reading or to sing a hymn.</small><br/> <br/>
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Being Easter weekend, we struggled to find downtown accommodation in Bologna, and ended up at a reasonable place, but it was out near the airport, close to the end of a bus line with infrequent services. That's the price of not planning too far ahead.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346430"><img title="Downtown Bologna, with Tower" alt="Downtown Bologna, with Tower" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/64/30/51346430.693b9a63.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Downtown Bologna, with Tower</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346432"><img title="The Meridian Line, Bologna" alt="The Meridian Line, Bologna" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/64/32/51346432.4596f523.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Meridian Line, Bologna</strong><br/> Inside the Cathedral of Bologna,the world's longest indoor Meridian Line. A 17th century astronomical aid, still proven to be incredibly accurate.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346434"><img title="Anatomical Theatre of the Archiginnasio" alt="Anatomical Theatre of the Archiginnasio" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/64/34/51346434.c611f8f1.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="480" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Anatomical Theatre of the Archiginnasio</strong><br/> Bologna university is referred to, in various sites and literature, as the world's oldest continually running university. It is evocative with its wooden seating and marble dissection slab. It is beautifully decorated with wooden statues of famous historical physicians. I found myself sitting and imagining what students of centuries gone by may have witnessed.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346436"><img title="A Bologna Portico" alt="A Bologna Portico" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/64/36/51346436.979fc80b.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>A Bologna Portico</strong><br/> The porticoes of Bologna are World Heritage Listed, totalling scores of kilometres, lining virtually every street of the city.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51346438"><img title="Vista Over Bologna" alt="Vista Over Bologna" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/64/38/51346438.d031a3dd.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Vista Over Bologna</strong><br/> View from the roof of the cathedral.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Slovenia46.151241 14.99546317.841007163821153 -20.160787 74.461474836178837 50.151713tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-37889528109956404902022-04-10T19:38:00.000+10:002022-06-11T22:48:29.372+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - Crossing Borders<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">1 to 9 Apr, 2022 - Bari, Budapest, Szentendre - (Italy, Hungary)</span><br />
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The stories are generally captured with the photos. With my birthday coming, we decided to head for a foreign celebration. Caught a train down to Bari, for one night, before flying out the following day.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320824"><img title="Seafood Dinner, Bari" alt="Seafood Dinner, Bari" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/24/51320824.cb7ab331.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/>
<small><strong>Seafood Dinner, Bari</strong><br/>
Not quite warm enough to dine sans layers. But a nice evening in Bari. Check that octopus!</small><br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320826"><img title="Fresh Produce Stall, Bari" alt="Fresh Produce Stall, Bari" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/26/51320826.19fe9165.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Fresh Produce Stall, Bari</strong><br/> Fruit and veg for sale in the old town of Bari.</small><br/> <br/>
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A solid week in Budapest, for my birthday. Marina and Akos, who cat-sat for us in Richmond a number of times in years gone by, very generously housed us in their apartment, taking time where possible to show us one hell of a good Hungarian time. (Note: reference to hell not entirely random - keep an eye out for their palinka, soon to be available in Australia, marketed under the name of "Pergatory".)
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320884"><img title="Morning One in Budapest" alt="Morning One in Budapest" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/84/51320884.ea838a8c.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Morning One in Budapest</strong><br/> Arriving in Budapest, we were graciously hosted in the apartment of Marina and Akos. They said snow was in the forecast, and we woke to the fresh layer. This will probably be our last snowfall for this winter.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320886"><img title="Wood-fired Stove on an Old Train" alt="Wood-fired Stove on an Old Train" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/86/51320886.697ccbec.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Wood-fired Stove on an Old Train</strong><br/> Marina and Akos planned a wonderful Sunday for us. The cold and snow only added to the atmosphere and overall enjoyment. - We walked from their apartment to a point where we caught the children's railway - a train service staffed by children, who rotate in teams to keep the system running. Finding a lit stove in our carriage was a nice bonus.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320888"><img title="Young Ticket Inspectors" alt="Young Ticket Inspectors" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/88/51320888.b3ac67dd.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Young Ticket Inspectors</strong><br/> The children come through, performing their duties of checking and punching our tickets. In broken English, and using Marina and Akos to translate the rest, we learn about the duties they perform as volunteers on the railway. How often they work, and how much they enjoy being involved in the gyermekvasut. Truly, this was a memorable ride.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320890"><img title="Striking Out for our Walk" alt="Striking Out for our Walk" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/90/51320890.02b3a4d5.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="283" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Striking Out for our Walk</strong><br/> Fresh snow about, Richard and Akos, heading through suburban streets, to get to the walking trails through the forest.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320892"><img title="Jo and Marina, Busy with a Selfie" alt="Jo and Marina, Busy with a Selfie" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/92/51320892.cc8e67db.500.jpg?r2" height="375" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo and Marina, Busy with a Selfie</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320894"><img title="At the Fisherman's Bastion" alt="At the Fisherman's Bastion" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/94/51320894.5b391e00.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>At the Fisherman's Bastion</strong><br/> The Danube river, and Budapest Parliament, from Fisherman's Bastion, Buda.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320896"><img title="Akos Brought Us to One of His Lunch Haunts" alt="Akos Brought Us to One of His Lunch Haunts" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/96/51320896.f2c2f3f1.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Akos Brought Us to One of His Lunch Haunts</strong><br/> Meat, pickles, bread. Cheap and easy. What more do you need for lunch?</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320898"><img title="Wine Bar" alt="Wine Bar" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/08/98/51320898.28c532df.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Wine Bar</strong><br/> Not what you might expect, when using the name wine bar. The majority of wines here cost a pittance, and are ladled from pots into jugs for easier pouring. The barman is also the chef, and has been running the establishment for many years. Akos used to come here in his university days.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320910"><img title="Posh Coffee Stop" alt="Posh Coffee Stop" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/10/51320910.161a10ac.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Posh Coffee Stop</strong><br/> Our third time in Budapest, and our third visit to CafƩ Gerbeaud. Full of style and character that spans scores of decades, it is a highlight treat to stop in.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320912"><img title="Inside the Budapest Opera Building" alt="Inside the Budapest Opera Building" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/12/51320912.5e00d3e7.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Inside the Budapest Opera Building</strong><br/> Akos still has friends working with the recently renovated opera house, and through those connections, we were given tickets to see Mefistofele. Second row, centre, in a magnificent world renowned venue. Amazing.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320914"><img title="Foyer, Budapest Opera House" alt="Foyer, Budapest Opera House" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/14/51320914.d2b156b1.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Foyer, Budapest Opera House</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320916"><img title="Statues in Hero's Square" alt="Statues in Hero's Square" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/16/51320916.359e69a0.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Statues in Hero's Square</strong><br/> The rear part of Hero's Square is lined with statues of notable Kings, and plaques depicting memorable acts they are remembered for. Acts of service or benevolence, or power and strength, but all seen as contributions to what Hungary is today.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320918"><img title="Vajdahunyad Castle, Budapest" alt="Vajdahunyad Castle, Budapest" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/18/51320918.3183512e.500.jpg?r2" height="427" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Vajdahunyad Castle, Budapest</strong><br/> Housing a couple of museums, an interesting castle to visit and walk around.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320926"><img title="Church Entry in Vajdahunyad Castle" alt="Church Entry in Vajdahunyad Castle" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/26/51320926.b085f96b.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Church Entry in Vajdahunyad Castle</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320936"><img title="Inside Parliament Building, Budapest" alt="Inside Parliament Building, Budapest" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/36/51320936.bc83f313.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Inside Parliament Building, Budapest</strong><br/> We can't believe that we did not do a tour of this building until this trip. It was a worthwhile visit indeed, despite needing to do it in Spanish. The Italian tour was full, and the English ones were at inconvenient times.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320940"><img title="Assembly Hall, Budapest Parliament" alt="Assembly Hall, Budapest Parliament" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/40/51320940.dd4f8150.500.jpg?r2" height="373" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Assembly Hall, Budapest Parliament</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320944"><img title="Brunch - So Good, We Thought We were in Melbourne" alt="Brunch - So Good, We Thought We were in Melbourne" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/44/51320944.f2b67a6a.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Brunch - So Good, We Thought We were in Melbourne</strong><br/> A Budapest birthday brunch. We have been missing this sort of morning dining experience, and so, for my birthday, jumped at the opportunity to have a mid morning slap up.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320946"><img title="Leaving the Rudas Baths Complex" alt="Leaving the Rudas Baths Complex" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/46/51320946.bf31a9c7.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="451" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Leaving the Rudas Baths Complex</strong><br/> We visited the Rudas baths (Rudas GyĆ³gyfĆ¼rdÅ Ć©s Uszoda) for a few hours of relaxing and soaking at various temperatures. In most of the historic bath area it is forbidden to take photos, so a memory photo as we left will have to do;</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320948"><img title="Dinner at Stand25" alt="Dinner at Stand25" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/09/48/51320948.789c0671.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Dinner at Stand25</strong><br/> Dinner at the Michelin restaurant, Stand25, for my birthday. A fantastic modern take on traditional Hungarian cuisine.</small><br/> <br/>
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We squeezed in one day trip out of Budapest.<br/><br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324026"><img title="View Over Szentendre, Hungary" alt="View Over Szentendre, Hungary" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/40/26/51324026.cd4ae485.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>View Over Szentendre, Hungary</strong><br/> Not far from Budapest, and easily reached by train, Szentendre made a great day trip.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324030"><img title="Play Time" alt="Play Time" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/40/30/51324030.dba456db.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Play Time</strong><br/> The school was facing on this area outside the church, and we can only assume that it was play time. The kids kicked balls, and enjoyed games of "chasie", and a couple of weary looking adults, presumably teachers, watched on.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324032"><img title="Langos" alt="Langos" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/40/32/51324032.7fcb2bff.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Langos</strong><br/> Essentially, Langos is fried bread topped with sour cream, garlic, and cheese.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51324034"><img title="Chimney Cake" alt="Chimney Cake" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/40/34/51324034.adaaf4c1.500.jpg?r2" height="339" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Chimney Cake</strong><br/> Imagine a light dough, wrapped layer by layer in a long spiral on a fat piece of wood, cooked over charcoal, and sprinkled with cinnamon and icing sugar. There you have it, chimney cake.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Budapest, Hungary47.497912 19.04023519.187678163821154 -16.116015 75.808145836178852 54.196484999999996tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-90713791243904114482022-03-31T20:05:00.092+11:002022-06-11T21:25:50.708+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - Ending Winter<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">24 Jan to 31 Mar, 2022 - Bomba (and surrounds), Pennapiedemonte, Capriglia, Rivisondoli - (Italy)</span><br />
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Winter. As aluded to in the previous blog entry, the weather for winter was far from bad. Although short, the days for most of February and March were sunny, alowing us to fill them with various outdoor activities.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291168"><img title="Interesting Rock Carving Along the Way" alt="Interesting Rock Carving Along the Way" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/11/68/51291168.5d601847.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Interesting Rock Carving Along the Way</strong><br/> Not far from Pennapiedimonte, on one of the main walking trails, this fantastically detailed rock carving pays tribute to the locals and their lifestyles.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291172"><img title="Jo and Patrick" alt="Jo and Patrick" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/11/72/51291172.f13d3435.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo and Patrick</strong><br/> Lunch stop above the snow line.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291176"><img title="Heading Back Down to Pennapiedimonte" alt="Heading Back Down to Pennapiedimonte" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/11/76/51291176.a5dc8c1b.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Heading Back Down to Pennapiedimonte</strong></small><br/> <br/>
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We spent nearly two weeks on the other side of the valley, house sitting for Sue and Sean. Well, not so much about the casa, but way more about the pets. Sam the dog, and four cats (Ella, Sienna, Sangro, and Florence). It was a delight to have them all over us, and on more than one occasion, we had pangs of wanting feline dependents in our lives again.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291486"><img title="Trying to Work without Upsetting the Cats" alt="Trying to Work without Upsetting the Cats" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/14/86/51291486.2960cc9a.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Trying to Work without Upsetting the Cats</strong><br/> While pet-sitting for Sean and Sue, we loved the attention that the animals would give us - to the point where we wouldn't even move them when they were uncomfortable or in the way...</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291488"><img title="The Dogs Join us for Coffee In the Morning" alt="The Dogs Join us for Coffee In the Morning" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/14/88/51291488.0d22b881.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Dogs Join us for Coffee In the Morning</strong><br/> Sam, Sue and Sean's dog at the foot of the bed, joined by Bella, Tim and Katie's dog, who came for an overnight visit. </small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291490"><img title="The Crowded Bed" alt="The Crowded Bed" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/14/90/51291490.01dc4cf0.500.jpg?r2" height="400" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Crowded Bed</strong><br/> Two people, four cats, and a dog. It was rather crowded most nights at Capriglia.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291492"><img title="Feeding Time" alt="Feeding Time" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/14/92/51291492.d23cc760.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Feeding Time</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291494"><img title="Strike a Pose" alt="Strike a Pose" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/14/94/51291494.ffffde47.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Strike a Pose</strong></small><br/> <br/>
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Yet more visitors from Aus. Flying visit by Giovanni and Chrysi. Really, we appreciated their effort and taking time to come down to Abruzzo. We hope the meal was sufficiently wonderful to justify the trip, if anything more than our company was required.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291496"><img title="Giovanni and Chrysi" alt="Giovanni and Chrysi" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/14/96/51291496.65f81fc8.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Giovanni and Chrysi</strong><br/> Dinner at an Agroturismo, with course upon course of amazing food.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291498"><img title="With Chrysi and Giovanni in Bomba" alt="With Chrysi and Giovanni in Bomba" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/14/98/51291498.976d16f1.500.jpg?r2" height="375" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>With Chrysi and Giovanni in Bomba</strong><br/> So nice to have visitors from Aus.</small><br/> <br/>
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And finally, two more reveals. I know they are long awaited, but when the renovations are not urgent or pressing, it becomes easy to push them back and delay, time and time again. The kitchen was done in a few smaller bursts, by ourselves. The bathroom was dictated by us, but the hard efforts were outsourced to the tireless Ilir, who smashed (quite literally at times) through the majority of tasks in about a week.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291500"><img title="Kitchen Before and After" alt="Kitchen Before and After" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/15/00/51291500.6fdbb589.500.jpg?r2" height="477" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Kitchen Before and After</strong><br/> Early on, we began the kitchen improvements with the new fridge and stove. Three walls of the kitchen have now been painted yellow - and Jo could not resist putting some glitter in the paint. That happened close to the end of last year, while I was in the USA. She decided to choose the time of least resistance. That said, when I came home and saw it, I was quite impressed with how it came up. The cupboards were next to get their face-lift with a lick of paint. And finally the tiles. All the painting was done by Jo - walls, cupboards, and tiles, but we did the tile stickers together. At least I can say I contributed.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291502"><img title="Bathroom Transformation" alt="Bathroom Transformation" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/15/02/51291502.92b83ed5.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="248" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Bathroom Transformation</strong><br/> Unlike the kitchen, the bathroom remodelling was only partly done by us. We did the planning, and chose everything, but our workhorse, Ilir, provided the manpower and expertise. Our chief objectives - larger shower that did not flood the whole bathroom, more space and a fresher look. The curved shower was a perfect fit with existing features that could not be moved. Putting the toilet on a slight angle with the high mounted cistern meant we didn't have to re plumb the sewage. Removing the bidet and putting in a compact corner basin bought us space, and mounting a new horizontal hot water service made it feel more open in there. We are rapt with the tiles we chose, although we had to do so under a bit of pressure. "Ilir, you'll need to have the tiles soon, won't you." "Yes, but no hurry. I won't need them before tomorrow." We rushed to a nearby bathroom clearance outlet with a limited, yet diverse range. Maybe because of this smaller number of options, we surprised ourselves by agreeing after only a single visit on which tiles would be best. Finally, we added tap-ware (including a snazzy little waterfall faucet), lighting, cabinetry and mirror, shelf, hooks, toilet roll holder, and so on.</small><br/> <br/>
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On a random walk close to home, we made a curious find, and inside that, we unearthed an even more intriguing treasure.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291504"><img title="Abandoned House in Bomba" alt="Abandoned House in Bomba" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/15/04/51291504.c32d6c2f.500.jpg?r2" height="308" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Abandoned House in Bomba</strong><br/> Many villages in Abruzzo have abandoned and seemingly forgotten houses. Bomba is typical, with most streets having a smattering of buildings in various states of disrepair and ruin, interspersed with homes that are cared for and obviously loved. Of course, most ruined and abandoned buildings are entirely empty, or limited to 2 or 3 broken large pieces of furniture. One March day, we noticed a door ajar, and decided an explore, in our customary manner. This is what we found - a home with no sign of anyone being there since the late 1980s. Old television and fridge and scales, light fittings,, and cupboards full of crockery. But dating it was easy. The table was covered in letters and receipts, papers and magazines, most dated 1987 or so. The kitchen still had pots and pans, and the shelves upstairs still had shoes and clothes. The bed had a bedspread, but is now ruined due to the gaping hole in the roof and years of rain and weathering. We have our theory - when the owner passed, a relative has come and gone through all the papers, possibly searching for the will. Intending to return to take care of the property, they locked and left and for whatever reason, never came back.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291506"><img title="And Amongst all the Papers..." alt="And Amongst all the Papers..." src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/15/06/51291506.6853f617.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>And Amongst all the Papers...</strong><br/> So, in the abandoned house, on the top of the mess of papers from the 1980's, we found a "pocket map" of Melbourne with tourist attractions and useful numbers! How random!</small><br/> <br/>
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Finally, we got to have a few days in the proper snow. We had planned this for last year, but rolling lockdowns shelved those plans.
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320778"><img title="Selfie on the Slopes" alt="Selfie on the Slopes" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/07/78/51320778.873beb69.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Selfie on the Slopes</strong><br/> Skiing at Roccaraso. Home trail, last run.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51320780"><img title="Loving our Snow Trip" alt="Loving our Snow Trip" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/07/80/51320780.8f767010.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Loving our Snow Trip</strong><br/> Jo, part way down Roccaraso. It's been a few years since we have been on the skis, but it seemed to come back quicker than even we thought it might. Like riding a bikeā¦</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com066042 Bomba, Province of Chieti, Italy42.034595499999988 14.366398313.724361663821142 -20.7898517 70.344829336178833 49.5226483tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-42606447484153966042022-01-24T20:02:00.031+11:002022-06-05T19:35:50.752+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - Lakes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">19 Jan to 23 Jan, 2022 - Bergamo, Lago di Endine, Lago d'Iseo, Lago di Garda, Verona, Milan - (Italy)</span><br />
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Back north. This time, we crashed Paul and Justin's holiday.<br/><br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51271992"><img title="Panorama - Bergamo - Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore" alt="Panorama - Bergamo - Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/19/92/51271992.60128f31.500.jpg?r2" height="169" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Panorama - Bergamo Cathedral</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51271996"><img title="High Crucifix in Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore" alt="High Crucifix in Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/19/96/51271996.9775140d.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>High Crucifix in Bergamo Cathedral</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51271998"><img title="Piazza Padre Reginaldo Giuliani, Bergamo" alt="Piazza Padre Reginaldo Giuliani, Bergamo" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/19/98/51271998.a5674584.500.jpg?r2" height="353" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Piazza Padre Reginaldo Giuliani, Bergamo</strong><br/> Cathedrals, Churches, Chapels, and Palaces.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51272006"><img title="Jo Showing Off on the Frozen Lake" alt="Jo Showing Off on the Frozen Lake" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/20/06/51272006.ebc491ec.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo Showing Off on the Frozen Lake</strong><br/> Heading out and about from Bergamo, we did a circuit that had us passing Lago di Endine. A handful of people were out skating, giving us the courage to venture out on the ice.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51272008"><img title="Out on the Ice" alt="Out on the Ice" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/20/08/51272008.16f942bb.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Out on the Ice</strong><br/> Selfie down to a nervous pair, gingerly standing on the frozen Lago di Endine.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51272010"><img title="Back at the Balancing Rocks" alt="Back at the Balancing Rocks" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/20/10/51272010.38b2ec37.500.jpg?r2" height="375" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Back at the Balancing Rocks</strong><br/> We were at Lago di Iseo, and figured a detour up to the Riserva Naturale Piramidi di Zone was warranted.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51272012"><img title="Coming Around Lago di Garda" alt="Coming Around Lago di Garda" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/20/12/51272012.958b0d66.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Coming Around Lago di Garda</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51272014"><img title="Lago di Garda, Riva del Garda" alt="Lago di Garda, Riva del Garda" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/20/14/51272014.fcc680a8.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Lago di Garda, Riva del Garda</strong><br/> Breaking our journey from Bergamo to Verona with a lunch stop at Riva del Garda.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51272032"><img title="Ponte della Vittoria, Verona" alt="Ponte della Vittoria, Verona" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/20/32/51272032.c0f1c977.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Ponte della Vittoria, Verona</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51272034"><img title="Looking down to Verona from Castel San Pietro" alt="Looking down to Verona from Castel San Pietro" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/20/34/51272034.71e5d044.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Looking down to Verona from Castel San Pietro</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291088"><img title="Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II - Milan" alt="Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II - Milan" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/10/88/51291088.8c5886a2.500.jpg?r2" height="101" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II - Milan</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291090"><img title="Milan Lunch" alt="Milan Lunch" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/10/90/51291090.730c5cff.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Milan Lunch</strong><br/> Having lunch opposite Milan Cathedral.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291092"><img title="Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore" alt="Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/10/92/51291092.1b5cf071.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore</strong><br/> This church was our most unexpected find in Milan. As this was not our first time here, we wanted to locate sights that were less on the tourist trail. The vivid murals and frescoes in the church, predominantly biblical stories, were astoundingly beautiful. This should not be a less visited place.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291094"><img title="Expressive Cherubs, One Wanting to Punch On" alt="Expressive Cherubs, One Wanting to Punch On" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/10/94/51291094.9967b8d3.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Expressive Cherubs, One Wanting to Punch On</strong><br/> Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore, Milan. There were many beautiful paintings to take in. I spent a lot of time looking closely, searching for little details and interesting sub stories.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51291168"><img title="Interesting Rock Carving Along the Way" alt="Interesting Rock Carving Along the Way" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/11/68/51291168.5d601847.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Interesting Rock Carving Along the Way</strong><br/> Not far from Pennapiedimonte, on one of the main walking trails, this fantastically detailed rock carving pays tribute to the locals and their lifestyles.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0MPM4+RF Bergamo, Province of Bergamo, Italy45.6845279 9.706221099999998744.91553844227785 8.6075882874999987 46.453517357722149 10.804853912499999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-53927329123003403342022-01-19T20:02:00.048+11:002022-08-28T18:03:32.620+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - Promotion<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">10 Jan to 19 Jan, 2022 - Bomba (and surrounds), Sant'Agata - (Italy)</span><br />
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January turned in to a delightful month, weather-wise. I'm sure the lack of snow and rain is going to cause problems down the track, but with daily clear skies and temperatures consistently in the teens, we did our best to take advantage of the climatic conditions.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51233258"><img title="Walking with Patrick" alt="Walking with Patrick" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/58/51233258.dc8b92a6.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Walking with Patrick</strong><br/> Heading out from Gessopalena, views of Maiella accompanying us for the day.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51233260"><img title="The Site of a Horrible Incident" alt="The Site of a Horrible Incident" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/32/60/51233260.a4919fc5.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Site of a Horrible Incident</strong><br/> On the 21st of January, 1944, in the small village of Sant'Agata, the Nazis extracted revenge after two of their soldiers were killed by a partisan group. The soldiers rounded up all the people in the village, only women, children, and the elderly were there. They were locked in their houses, and grenades were thrown inside, killing 42 of the 44 villagers there.</small><br/> <br/>
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Even in winter, we had people around. When possible, we entertained on the terrace. I decided to make a little promo video. :)<br/><br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51240048">CLICK FOR VIDEO<br/>Via Forno 14, Bomba, From Above<br/>CLICK FOR VIDEO</a><br/> <small><strong>Via Forno 14, Bomba, From Above</strong><br/> Early January, when we were supposed to be in the depths of winter, Bomba was instead experiencing weeks of mild, almost balmy, weather. Some friends, Donna and Andrew, and their son Xavier, came for lunch, and we dined on our recently completed roof terrace. Xavier sent his drone up a few times, and I compiled some of the footage in to this video. Music is "La Scelta", courtesy of Caparezza.</small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com066042 Bomba, Province of Chieti, Italy42.034595499999988 14.366398341.983589521030027 14.29773374921875 42.085601478969949 14.43506285078125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247248532719695442.post-81408482983310261252022-01-11T20:12:00.174+11:002022-06-12T01:18:15.835+10:00Una Casa Abruzzese, and Two Aussies - New Year<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">28 Dec, 2021 to 9 Jan, 2022 - Castel del Monte, Alberobello, Otranto, Santa Maria di Leuca, Gallipoli, Lecce, Matera, Gravinda di Puglia, Castelmezzano, Viggiano, Padula, Foggia - (Italy)</span><br />
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Soon after Christmas, we went on the road. South-east, right to the tip of Italy's heel. Then back up to Bomba through the centre of the country. The first few days, we kept moving a little bit. Two nights, two towns, and a number of stops en-route.<br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51206026"><img title="Castel del Monte - Exterior" alt="Castel del Monte - Exterior" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/60/26/51206026.314b60e6.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Castel del Monte - Exterior</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51206028"><img title="Castel del Monte" alt="Castel del Monte" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/60/28/51206028.a34e22a0.500.jpg?r2" height="402" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Castel del Monte</strong><br/> Looking up from the inner courtyard. We had stopped at Castel del Monte in earlier in the year, but as it was high season and we had not pre-booked tickets, we were unable to go in. This time, we were driving south, in the vicinity, and we made our bookings online to ensure we would get to see inside.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51204108"><img title="Christmas Lights, Alberobello" alt="Christmas Lights, Alberobello" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/08/51204108.96fc8ac3.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Christmas Lights, Alberobello</strong><br/> A suburban part of Alberobello. Corners and nooks were lit with scenes and mini stories. Some of a traditional motif, with a bible verse, and some based on local stories and themes.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51204110"><img title="Our Trullo Bed and Breakfast" alt="Our Trullo Bed and Breakfast" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/10/51204110.3fdff083.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Our Trullo Bed and Breakfast</strong><br/> It was wonderful to stay in a traditional trullo house in the middle of Alberobello historic centre.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51204112"><img title="View Over Alberobello" alt="View Over Alberobello" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/41/12/51204112.41208d36.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>View Over Alberobello</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231794"><img title="Walls of Otranto" alt="Walls of Otranto" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/94/51231794.9ecbaa6a.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Walls of Otranto</strong><br/> Eastern most town on the Italian mainland, with a small harbour, and a strategically important spot at the strait between the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic. The town changed hands a number of times, between the Greeks, Romans, Ottomans, and others. The castle and town walls attest to the efforts put in to retain the town.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231796"><img title="The Martyrs of Otranto" alt="The Martyrs of Otranto" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/96/51231796.755512bd.500.jpg?r2" height="159" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Martyrs of Otranto</strong><br/> The skeletal remains of some 813 residents of Otranto, beheaded in 1480 when the city fell in to the hands of an Ottoman force. They are said to have rejected the option of converting to Islam.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231798"><img title="Skulls and Assorted Bones" alt="Skulls and Assorted Bones" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/17/98/51231798.684fef7b.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="334" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Skulls and Assorted Bones</strong><br/> Remains of the Martyrs of Otranto.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231800"><img title="Skulls, Up Close" alt="Skulls, Up Close" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/00/51231800.c1817dcc.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Skulls, Up Close</strong><br/> Relics in a chapel in the Otranto Cathedral, the Martyrs of Otranto.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231802"><img title="Mosaic Floor, Otranto Cathedral" alt="Mosaic Floor, Otranto Cathedral" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/02/51231802.a698485d.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Mosaic Floor, Otranto Cathedral</strong><br/> While the skulls are an interesting draw for the Cathedral, the cathedral is bestowed with other interesting sights, including the amazing mosaic floor from the 12th century.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231804"><img title="Gallipoli, Italy" alt="Gallipoli, Italy" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/04/51231804.c4c85711.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Gallipoli, Italy</strong><br/> Another Gallipoli, diverse from the one us Australians automatically think of.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231806"><img title="Fishermen, Gallipoli Harbour" alt="Fishermen, Gallipoli Harbour" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/06/51231806.4a53dc2c.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Fishermen, Gallipoli Harbour</strong><br/> Down on Italy's heel, Gallipoli has a very pleasant old town. The harbour is protected by a well proportioned and picturesque castle.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231808"><img title="Church of Santa Croce, Lecce" alt="Church of Santa Croce, Lecce" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/08/51231808.4b4dad61.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Church of Santa Croce, Lecce</strong></small><br/> <br/>
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Our first multi night stop, Matera, was on my personal list of must visits, probably since week one in Italy. When it appeared in the newest 007 film as a key filming location, then the inspiration grew. Timing it with New Years Eve was a fantastic bonus. After booking it, Paul and Justin, friends from Melbourne, informed us they wanted to meet up with us. Let's do it. Matera.<br/> <br/>
I did not know how much of a thrill it would be to hunt filming locations. Although, it became a rollercoaster, too. We didn't need to see every pavestone that was filmed, but a few key scenes were tempting. There were disappointments, when we worked out that certain things didn't really exist. Temporary sets luring us to idyllic locales that turned out to be bare fields, or scenes filmed from non existent balconies. This was contrasted with joy at the recognition of landmarks, and the game of working out how that sequence might have been filmed.<br/> <br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231860"><img title="Matera" alt="Matera" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/60/51231860.ba98ccfa.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Matera</strong><br/> Our B'n'B was just opposite here, and this was the view we had (from the roof terrace, at least) over the ancient city of Matera.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231862"><img title="Cistern Beneath Matera" alt="Cistern Beneath Matera" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/62/51231862.a155943b.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Cistern Beneath Matera</strong><br/> Abandoned a century or so ago, the water cisterns beneath Matera have recently been drained and restored. They are no longer used as a water source for the city, but are now another tourist attraction. But a splendid sight, amazing engineering of its day, and a real appreciation of the importance of supplying a city with a good amount of water.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231864"><img title="Evening Light, Matera" alt="Evening Light, Matera" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/64/51231864.21c0ddb6.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Evening Light, Matera</strong><br/> Lights coming on, and a prominent Christmas tree pokes out to remind us the photo was taken in late December.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231866"><img title="Appetisers Arrived" alt="Appetisers Arrived" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/66/51231866.f1f53ac8.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Appetisers Arrived</strong><br/> New Years Eve. We met up with Justin and Paul, friends from Melbourne, Richmond even. When the first two plates arrived, we thought it looked like a lot to share between four. Then another two plates arrived. With another four courses to come, plus panetone, we were going to need the whole time until midnight to move our way through the food. </small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231868"><img title="Fireworks Over Matera - Welcome 2022" alt="Fireworks Over Matera - Welcome 2022" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/68/51231868.9cb7fa8b.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Fireworks Over Matera - Welcome 2022</strong><br/> As the New Year ticked over, and we cheered and watched the fireworks, we embraced each other, our friends, and even our restaurant hosts. Many wishes for a wonderful 2022 were given by all to all.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231870"><img title="Looking Across to Matera" alt="Looking Across to Matera" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/70/51231870.44cc8f4a.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Looking Across to Matera</strong><br/> We crossed the gorge and picked our way up to this viewpoint. Both sides of the gorge, for many kilometres, are dotted with caves of various size, many turned in to chapels and churches with ancient frescoes. A few were accessible from this path across, and despite their varying state of preservation or lack there-of, they were interesting spots to visit.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231872"><img title="Yes, It's Me, with Matera" alt="Yes, It's Me, with Matera" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/72/51231872.0dbafd20.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Yes, It's Me, with Matera</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231880"><img title="Jo in a Near Forgotten Cave Church" alt="Jo in a Near Forgotten Cave Church" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/80/51231880.5eb3b398.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Jo in a Near Forgotten Cave Church</strong><br/> Madonna degli Angeli. We were the only people up there, and so even just to be somewhere the crowds weren't going was a plus. The state of abandonment made me feel a bit sad, especially to see that some visitors had chosen to graffiti right over the top of centuries old paintings. Even in there decaying state, or maybe because of that, they deserve respect.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231886"><img title="Piazza San Giovanni Battista, AKA "Donut Square"" alt="Piazza San Giovanni Battista, AKA "Donut Square"" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/86/51231886.774f9984.500.jpg?r2" height="82" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Piazza San Giovanni Battista, AKA "Donut Square"</strong><br/> A full 360 panorama of a piazza which featured in the Bond film, "No Time to Die". Apparently, it gained the pseudonym of donut square. In the movie, our hero in his Aston Martin, taking a beating from the villains, unleashes a furious barrage of firepower as he spins the car around in the centre. Thankfully, it was all special effects, and they didn't really fill all the buildings and the 12th church with bullet holes....</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51231888"><img title="Cripta del Peccato Originale" alt="Cripta del Peccato Originale" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/18/88/51231888.a8b667f4.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Cripta del Peccato Originale</strong><br/> The Crypt of the Original Sin, near Matera, has unmatched paintings from the 8th century, featuring paintings that have earnt the unknown painter much acclaim for the style he brought to his art of that era. The freedom he painted with, and his attempts to bring together, particularly the early part of the Old Testament, in a simple flow, were beautiful. Here, we see the serpent tempt Eve, who takes the fruit, and after tasting it, offers it to Adam. He in turn, willingly, almost happily, accepts to participate in this activity, contravening the one restriction God has placed on them, and leading to their downfall, and ultimately, the downfall of humanity.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232518"><img title="Viaduct, Gravina di Puglia" alt="Viaduct, Gravina di Puglia" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/18/51232518.629cc722.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Viaduct, Gravina di Puglia</strong><br/> Another James Bond "No Time to Die" film location. In the movie, they tricked us in to thinking it was in Matera, but in reality, it is around 30 km to the north.</small><br/> <br/>
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For our anniversary, we had ourselves in at a Bed and Breakfast with an anniversary worthy outlook. Parting with Paul and Justin in Matera, we had a couple of short stops on the way across, but Castelmezzano is not a long way from Matera.<br/> <br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232520"><img title="BnB View, Castelmezzano" alt="BnB View, Castelmezzano" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/20/51232520.597471cd.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>BnB View, Castelmezzano</strong><br/> OK, the balcony was small, but the view was true to what the website implied we would get. We were thrilled, and would recommend the place to anyone heading anywhere near here. Downside? A steep walk in to town. A minor inconvenience.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232522"><img title="Sunrise, First Colours" alt="Sunrise, First Colours" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/22/51232522.6b636a4e.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Sunrise, First Colours</strong><br/> Morning, Castelmezzano.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232524"><img title="Sunrise, Last Colours" alt="Sunrise, Last Colours" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/24/51232524.eeeb3774.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Sunrise, Last Colours</strong><br/> Morning, Castelmezzano.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232526"><img title="View Back to Castelmezzano" alt="View Back to Castelmezzano" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/26/51232526.3e7dcc15.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>View Back to Castelmezzano</strong><br/> So, while these are not "The lomites", they are dolomite formations. Dolomite is the name of the mineral, so that will do for the geology lesson. The dramatic nature of the formations is all we really care about. It was not too arduous to walk down from Castelmezzano, across the river, and up to this fine viewpoint, above the town of Pietrapertosa. Not visiible in the photo, there is a zipline running from one of the further peaks across to the one we took this photo from. Volo dell'Angelo - Flight of the Angel. Deep down, I was probably relieved it was closed for the season when we were there.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232528"><img title="Heading Out" alt="Heading Out" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/28/51232528.6077a4c1.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Heading Out</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232530"><img title="We Wanted to be on the Terrace for the View" alt="We Wanted to be on the Terrace for the View" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/30/51232530.480c2954.500.jpg?r2" height="244" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>We Wanted to be on the Terrace for the View</strong><br/> We had consciously decided that an anniversary lunch would be preferable to allow, despite the lower temperatures, the view while dining. After all, the vista is what makes Castelmezzano so amazing. Happy 32 years, my love.</small><br/> <br/>
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The return up to Bomba saw us doing two improptu overnight stops. The last night was in Foggia, about 3-4 hours shy of Bomba. Walking the town in the evening, an Italian couple tapped us on the shoulder. They recognised us from Bomba. That just blew me away.<br/> <br/>
All in all, it was the perfect little tour.<br/> <br/>
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<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232574"><img title="Surprised Shepherds Discover the Madonna" alt="Surprised Shepherds Discover the Madonna" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/74/51232574.bfde107a.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Surprised Shepherds Discover the Madonna</strong><br/> The Black Madonna of Vigianno is an important icon, with pilgrims descending on this little town in their thousands. The statue itself was inside this church. It is possibly over a thousand years old, but was lost in 1050 when the city where it originally was housed, Grumentum, was destroyed. Centuries later, it was found by shepherds (who do appear both surprised and delighted). In May, the statue is transferred from this sanctuary to a church in the mountains, close to where it was found. And in September, the crowds follow it when it is carried back here.</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232576"><img title="Fourth Century Jaw Fragment" alt="Fourth Century Jaw Fragment" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/76/51232576.fc965d71.500.jpg?r2" height="334" width="500" /></a><br/> <small><strong>Fourth Century Jaw Fragment</strong><br/> San Prospero Martire. according to the label, but confusing as his skull is supposed to be elsewhere. Leading me to believe the jaw is not his, but that maybe a small relic of his is in the box....</small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232578"><img title="There Must be an Interesting Story Here" alt="There Must be an Interesting Story Here" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/25/78/51232578.dc7db685.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>There Must be an Interesting Story Here</strong></small><br/> <br/>
<a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/demeester/51232626"><img title="The Monastery Kitchen" alt="The Monastery Kitchen" src="http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/26/26/51232626.c2bcf2b4.500.jpg?r2" height="500" width="244" /></a><br/> <small><strong>The Monastery Kitchen</strong></small><br/> <br/>
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</div>Richard & Johttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13776714740821610535noreply@blogger.com0Province of Matera, Italy40.666379 16.604319938.901340010046617 14.407054275 42.431417989953381 18.801585525