Current Travels

A Land of Castles and Forts, Mountains and Wadis, Deserts and Beaches


16 to 23 Jan, 2024 - Nakhal, Nizwa, Bahla, Jebel Shams, Al Ayn, Jabrin, Wadi Bani Khalid, Al Ayjah, Sur, Wadi Shab, Muscat - (Oman)




All too quickly, another trip is coming to a close, and another "final" blog entry is written. This one covers the time in the main part of Oman.

We opted to spend a bit more for the hire car for this part of the trip, getting a vehicle with 4WD capability. Not 100% sure of needing it, I was hesitant to spend the extra. We had no intention of visiting the deep desert sands, so we knew a true 4x4 would not be necessary, but since we were doing some areas with notorious unmade roads, including steep climbs, we felt obliged to dig deeper and cover ourselves. Now, after returning the car and assessing, the short number of kilometres we drove where it was useful would have been successfully driven in a regular car. Not easily nor comfortably, but possible. You know what they say about hindsight.

We have been observing a local custom. I would be surprised if it was just Omani, but we really don't know if this happens in neighbouring countries. When dining out, we watched the "take away ritual". This involved a customer driving up outside the restaurant and tooting their horn. Someone from the restaurant would then attend to that car. If not quickly, then the little friendly toot is repeated, perhaps as a more pertinent honk. So, the waiter, owner, or maybe one of their children, goes to the most recently arrived vehicle. Sometimes they would be required to run back in to the establishment and return with a menu. Order is taken from the vehicle occupants, which may be just the driver, or may be the whole family. Eventually, a bag or more of food is taken out, and the car leaves. Occasionally it seems the order has been pre-placed, or the driver has left and come back, but this does not appear to be the normal way. While waiting, bored children climb out of car windows or through open sunroofs to entertain themselves. There is often a need for the waiting cars to shuffle around, as they may be double or triple parked.

Jo and I had the idea of suggesting roller skates to these waitstaff, but the stairs and dirt and rocks would probably make implementation of that idea quite treacherous.

South-west we left from Muscat airport. Across the plains for the first half day, before abruptly encountering the mountains, climbing and winding over the next days, eventually nearing Oman's highest point of around 3,000 metres. It was cool at night, there, dropping to around 7 degress.

Nakhal Fort
Nakhal Fort
19th century fort, overlooking the local date plantations.


Inside Nizwa Fort
Inside Nizwa Fort
Inside the inner fortifications of Nizwa Fort. This is a 17th century fort, the inner stronghold of a much larger castle. Entrance to the fort was protected with multiple secret trap doors and pitfalls, reinforced doors where boiling date oil could be poured on enemy attackers, and many other impressive defensive components.


Nizwa Fort's Destinctive Tower
Nizwa Fort's Destinctive Tower
At 40m high, it would make quite the formidable task for any army of that day to consider.


Bahla Fort
Bahla Fort
One of the largest forts in Oman. Rooms here were generally left empty and unlabelled, allowing the visitor to be creative and hypothesise as one scrambled in and out and around the multitude rooms and the Escher like stairways.


Bahla Fort Interior
Bahla Fort Interior
Built and modified over the 12th to 15th centuries. The mud-brick walls, as well as the architecture and layout, looked and felt quite different to the other forts we have visited so far in Oman. Not less refined, but they certainly did not feel as evolved.


Wadi Ghul Viewpoint
Wadi Ghul Viewpoint
Looking down in to Wadi Ghul from the top of Jebel Shams. This canyon is often called the "Grand Canyon of Oman", and a deserved title it is indeed.


A Stop on the Balcony Walk
A Stop on the Balcony Walk
The balcony walk is a 5-6 km trail that runs in to Wadi Ghul. It is reasonably level, and although narrow in parts, never precipitous. Doing it in the morning meant we basically were in the sun for the majority. This lookout point seems to occasionally operate as a cafe, with two tables, although there was nobody when we came through. It is reasonably near the end (or start, depending whether you need a break early).


Another View From the Balcony Walk
Another View From the Balcony Walk
Deep in Wadi Ghul, Oman's Grand Canyon.





Then east, rapidly loosing altitude, till it was a pleasant 27 degrees by the coast. Circling back to the north, we finished with a coupld of days in Muscat.

Beehive Tombs, Al Ayn
Beehive Tombs, Al Ayn
Some of the beehive tombs of Al Ayn, lined along a ridge. Dotted at various sites in the area, they are believed to be between 4000 and 5000 years old.


Inside Jabrin Castle
Inside Jabrin Castle
We both felt that Jabrin Castle was our favourite in Oman. The size and layout made for an excellent visit, and a good quantity of information. The furnished rooms, just lovely, and the painted ceilings are especially noteworthy.


Culturally Appropriate Signage
Culturally Appropriate Signage

By the Lake, Wadi Bani Khalid
By the Lake, Wadi Bani Khalid
I had read about this location, but when it featured on the plane in Oman Air's in-flight safety video, I was inspired to upgrade it from "maybe" to "must do".


Chai by the Water
Chai by the Water
Although not visible in the shot, in this lake, and further upstream, families swam and played. It was joyful, listening to the chatter and laughter, children squealing with delight, adults calling and joking.

We didn't swim. Just drank chai and absorbed the atmosphere.


Deeper in Wadi Bani Khalid
Deeper in Wadi Bani Khalid
Further up the wadi, the rock pools of various sizes were also inhabited by paddlers and swimmers.


Hmm, Adulterous Soap
Hmm, Adulterous Soap
A shop sign in the ladies souk in Sur.


Wadi Shab
Wadi Shab
Getting close to Muscat, we visited Wadi Shab. It seemed to be the most touristy place we have been in Oman, with many nationalities seemingly represented amongst those heading up. First, there was a boat trip across a smal "lake" from the car park, then on foot, past ancient water channels that are still maintained, modified, and important.


On our Walk, Wadi Shab
On our Walk, Wadi Shab

We Ordered Too Much
We Ordered Too Much
So, we knew we were ordering more than we needed. We forgot they would automatically give the rice, salad, pita, dahl, and hummus.

The prawn masala was excellent, but the chicken nashif was out of this world.



Old Muscat Gate
Unusually, Old Muscat is not at the heart of Muscat city. What tends to happen, is the historic heart remains the heart of the city, to some degree or another. A new centre may spring up, but the new city surrounds and engulfs the old city.

Muscat, though, has its new city along the coast. Kind of bumped against the old city, but then sprawled out away from it for the next 20 or more kilometres.



Man Oman


11 to 15 Jan, 2024 - Salalah, Khasab - (Oman)




Our Oman adventure begins in the city of Salalah, right in the south of Oman. The domestic leg to get here saw us climb out of Muscat quite steeply, banking over the mountain range to the west. Soon after, the peaks and troughs on the landscape below gave way to the vast desolation. Not featureless, though, as the dry watercourses and wadis made interesting shapes and patterns in the rocky plateau.

Our first outing was a drive out the west and north of Salalah. We drove up the switchbacks high above Mughshail beach, before doubling back to stop at the blow holes. The weather today, and tide timing, made them less impressive than their potential, but it was a very pretty spot. We drank amazing ice coffees, and watched a large number of dolphins in the water, not too far from shore.

We left the coastline and went inland to Wadi Dawkah, home of a Frankincense tree grove. I have been intrigued by the possibility of getting up close to these valuable examples of flora since I started reading about this region. In eras past, the ports here were shipping Frankincense out, and bringing spices through from Berbera, Zanzibar, and India.

Oman, From Above
Oman, From Above
Flying from Muscat to Salalah. The dry watercourses that have been forged by torrential flows scar the barren landscape.


Dromedaries Along the Road
Dromedaries Along the Road
Perhaps the greatest threat when driving in Oman. Even on sunny days with good visibility, they can be difficult to spot, and like most animals, can be unpredictable. At night and during poor weather, they are a significant cause of road trauma.


Rugged Coastline, Mugshail
Rugged Coastline, Mugshail
Dramatic cliffs as viewed from the Mugshail Blowholes.


Not Their Usual Setting
Not Their Usual Setting
We don't expect to find camels on the beach, but when the desert meets the sea, I guess it's inevitable.


Frankincense Tree
Frankincense Tree
Wadi Dawkah, a natural reserve to protect an ancient grove of Frankincense. Even the smallest drop of sap, rubbed between one's fingers, emitted a sweet aroma, not dissimilar to a sweet pine-like fragrance.





Second outing, the following day, had us going east from Salalah. A spring, a wadi, an archaelogical site, and a religious tomb.

The religious stop was "Job's Tomb" - a prophet for Christians, Jews, and Muslims. A small building contained the unassuming tomb, which is one of a handful of sites around the world where it is claimed he was buried. The most notable aspect of our visit was that we almost missed it, first following some directions that had us at a spring and pools nearby, which apparently are filled with bathers in the busy months. This disappointing site threw us right off, and detective work was needed to ascertain where we had gone wrong.

Ayn Razat
Ayn Razat
Ayn Razat is a year-round spring near Salalah. A small strip popular with locals, where the water literally gushes from the rocks. The various pools were filled with fish, of many different varieties, while water birds waded around availing themselves of the self-serve buffet.


Wadi Darbat
Wadi Darbat
Looking down to Wadi Darbat. It really felt like looking down at a scene from Africa, especially if the camels had been giraffes. The water level is low, and as it is now a dry season in Oman. Still, the travellers come to see the lake and waterfalls.

The lake inside the wadi is the largest natural lake in Oman. That is not saying a lot, as on world standards, it would be considered tiny.


Small Waterfalls
Small Waterfalls
In the wet season, the water apparently flows over all these rocks, and then further downstream, runs off the plateau. Occasionally, once every ten years of so, that run off becomes a curtain of water.

We were actually surprised to see any water flowing, given how dry every thing is. So this lovely scene was a bonus.


Camel, In Wadi Darbat
Camel, In Wadi Darbat

Khor Rori, Oman
Khor Rori, Oman
Looking down from the ancient remains of Khor Rori. This hilltop town had a harbour below, once a critical stop for trade coming out the Red Sea or from North Africa, heeading across to India. At this stop, traders would take on Frankincense.





A very early flight had us at the other extreme of Oman, in Khasab. Khasab is an Omani exclave, isolated from the rest of the country by UAE. Security seemed tight and it felt like there was a lot of military. This turned out to be for a justifiable cause. The sultan was in town. We did not find out for what purpose - maybe to extend a personal welcome?

View with Sultan's Yacht
View with Sultan's Yacht
We had booked a "king room" at this hotel, and it was actually a small corner suite. We could see the cliffs that come down to the sea on both sides of Khasab, and the complete harbour.

Docked just opposite was the Sultan's yacht. The space between the road and the mooring had 5 or 6 armoured vehicles, Occasional helicopters circled.

I have to confess, I felt odd trying to take photos. The soldiers were all on alert, and I felt that opening curtains from such a prime location might already draw attention. So, opening windows or taking photos might invite a full police tactical unit to visit us.

A little later, walking through town, we came to the main road to find it fully blocked. Soon after, streams of police and military vehicles came, followed by many brand new green four-wheel-drives, followed by a vehicle with the sultan, and then more entourage, and more security. Overhead, helicopters kept a watchful eye on the proceedings. People along the road waved and took photos. We waved and took photos. We got a wave back, too.


Khasab Fort
Khasab Fort
Fort with concise and informative on-site museum. We particularly loved the restored wooden boats in the compound, showing the different styles which had been in use in the area over the last century or so.





Our main reason for coming to Khasab was to do a boat trip, on to the Musandam Fjords. These khors might not be true fjords, but the network of dramatic inlets did make the area feel like Scandinavian coast overtaken by the desert.

Jo, Sultana of Richmond
Jo, Sultana of Richmond
After boarding our wooden dhow, we thought we might be waiting for more passengers. However, we soon pushed off, and it was just the two of us. We could swap from shade to sun, snorkel as long as we wanted, opt in and out of stops (which we did opt in for all), There were drinks and fruit available the whole time, and a lunch fit for a Sultan or Sultana.


A Dolphin, Alongside our Dhow
A Dolphin, Alongside our Dhow
We spotted dolphins at about 5 or 6 locations on our way. When they were near the surface, the captain would put the boat in to high speed and aim towards them. We joined him and the crew member in clapping and whistling. Often, nothing resulted. A few times, the noise and speed of the boat got the dolphins to turn and engage with us. Swimming alongside and darting under the boat to appear again on the other side.

What do they think of us? This most beautiful interaction which they seem to reap no benefit other than play.


CLICK FOR VIDEO
Dolphin Play, Alongside our Boat
CLICK FOR VIDEO

Dolphin Play, Alongside our Boat
The commentary shows just how excited and happy I was.



On a Ridge Between Two Seas
On a Ridge Between Two Seas
One stop involved a walk and a climb up 400+ steps. This beautiful lookout had two different seas on either side. Gulf of Oman, or Oman Sea. Arabian Gulf, or Persian Gulf. A rewarding climb.

Meanwhile, men working on the path, making picnic tables and benches, walls, and steps, did the climb carrying bags of cement. Who knows how many times they climb those steps each day.


View into the Sun, Gulf of Oman
View into the Sun, Gulf of Oman




On the morning of our flight to Muscat, we used a ride sharing app to find a taxi to the airport. I did find it odd that a civilian in this part of the world would be wearing a shirt with any sort of camouflage print. I think security would be very touchy about things like that. So, I assumed he must be military.

Check in at this tiny airport with one flight for the day was slow and tedious. The flight was late, but we didn't know that as we were queued up and still without boarding passes ten minutes before schedule. However, we knew everyone queued were on the same flight, so surely we would get through. Suddenly, I hear my name. "Richard!" A cheerful tone, not threatening. I turn to see a soldier patrolling the terminal with a serious automatic weapon, giving me a cheeky little wave. At first I thought he could not be referring to me, and maybe I misheard. How many local people in Khasab would possibly know me? Then, a moment of recognition - our taxi driver had obviously parked and was now performing his duty.

4500 Years in Tunisia


6 to 10 Jan, 2024 - Dougga, Elles, Tunis, Carthage, Sidi Bou Said - (Tunisia)



Installment two of our Tunisian blog begins in Dougga, a few hours out of Tunis. We ended up at a moderately upmarket hotel, not by direct choice, but by elimination: there were no other hotels. This was our anniversary night, so it was nice to be somewhere with a nice restaurant attached.

The next day, we visited Dougga. The wind was very chilly, and the rain came and went, never really getting heavy. This was one of the sights I was most looking forward to. Not so large and extensive as to require a full day investment, but still of great interest with some fascinating remains and excavations. In better weather, I'm sure we would have spent longer.


Roman Theatre, Dougga
Roman Theatre, Dougga
Capable of seating 3500 people, the theatre was cut in the hill at the Roman city of Dougga. Jo on-stage, for perspective.


The "Capitol", Dougga
The "Capitol", Dougga
Part temple, part political, overlooking the Dougga market and forum.




Kind-a in the vicinity, we went to Elles to visit 4500 year old dolmen graves. Still cold and windy.


One of the Dolmen, Elles
One of the Dolmen, Elles
Dolmen are tombs made of slabs of stone laid on top of each others. The dolmen in this area were quite long, with passages and multiple rooms leading off them. These dolmen are over 4500 years old.




Outdoor sites, in the cold wind, with intermittent showers - we were keen to complete the last long drive, getting us to Tunis, where a warm hotel room would be waiting.

Unfortunately, it was not going to be as simple as that...


The Tale of the Tourists who Drove to Tunis Medina
The Tale of the Tourists who Drove to Tunis Medina
I am not just deflecting blame, I know this was all the fault of Google Maps navigation. Well, maybe some fault lies with the hotel.

Driving in to Tunis, well after dark, rain fairly heavy, trying to keep our calm with the nutty displays of local driving. A check of our reservation confirmation listed that the accommodation had parking. So, when Google had a plotted path to the front door, we followed.

A few turns from a main road, and we were driving along some narrow cobbled streets. We were not too concerned, there were other cars about. But the streets got narrower and the turns it proposed got tighter. At one point, it proposed a turn I knew we could not do successfully in the car, little as it was. So Google gave us an alternative.

I was convinced this must be the route - narrow, yes, but confidently marked. I had conviction, and we folded the mirrors in and progressed carefully... until a man shouted and stopped us. Where were we going? He warned us of the stairs coming ahead.

So, we had to back out. This took about 15 minutes, with mirrors folded, and 3 or 4 locals guiding us in the rain.

The whole saga felt like a cross between James Bond and the Griswalds.

We returned on foot, the following day, to take photos. Hmm, even in daylight, I might have attempted the manoeuvre. But rain or shine, day or night, we were not going to get our little Kia hire car down those stairs.




Our final days were spent in and around Tunis. Oh, and we were very happy to get the hire car returned, unscathed.


Roman Baths, Overlooking the Mediterranean
Roman Baths, Overlooking the Mediterranean
The remains of the Baths of Antoninus in Carthage, near Tunis.


Mosaic Slabs
Mosaic Slabs
At the Roman Villas site in Carthage, scores of mosaic slabs are laying about. We assume they are waiting for a more permanent home, given that they were none-too-shabby!

They did appear very random and forgotten. Not sure if they would notice one or two missing...


Sidi Bou Said
Sidi Bou Said
Sidi Bou Said is a beachside area, not too far from Tunis. It is the epitome of Mediterranean towns, with white washed walls contrasted with blue doors and shutters. Largely pedestrianised and an easy visit.


It Just Landed on My Head
It Just Landed on My Head
OK, not really, but a photo had to be had.


Cat, Moped, Tunis Medina
Cat, Moped, Tunis Medina
All through the country, we have seen cats sitting in cute perches. Peering out windows, on ledges, sitting in boxes (as cats are want to do) or up on bar stools. Any where they can find to stay out from under-foot.

I thought this nonchalant feline, watching the medina busy-ness,a stand out example of such behaviour.


Mosaic Lined Baptismal
Mosaic Lined Baptismal
A 4th or 5th century baptismal, beautifully lined with mosaic tiles, pictures, patterns, and inscriptions. Bardo Museum in Tunis.


Bardo Museum, Tunis
Bardo Museum, Tunis
With one of the world's largest collections of mosaics, the Bardo struggles to find space to display the wondrous pieces. There is a combination of thematic presentation, and a general chronological progression as one wanders through (assuming one starts at the beginning, which Jo tends not to do),

In the end, there are some examples so significant and so large, that presentation space has obviously been specifically designed and modified to hold it.



Help Us Obi-Five Kenobi


2 to 6 Jan, 2024 - Monastir, Sousse, El Djem, Matmata, Chenini, Tatooine, Tozeur - (Tunisia)



Rental car from airport, and out in to the chaos of Tunis. Quickly, it becomes apparent, lane markings on roads, even on express arterials, are not even treated as suggestions or guides. They are blatantly ignored. The number of lanes depends on the width of the vehicles negotiating at that moment. Extra skilled drivers seem to find a way to squeeze one more in, but the fluidity of that number, when trucks, buses, or tractors get involved, means drivers are forever on their toes. Assertiveness is imperative. Without it, you are quickly lost, becoming a lonely obstruction for other drivers to vent at as they nudge around you.

But once out of the capital, on the divided toll roads, some order returns. Free of speed humps, animals, and pedestrians, smooth and well maintained, the accelerator goes down and the kilometres tick over as quickly as anywhere else in the world, if not quicker...

As the sun sets, and we venture back on to secondary roads, especially after dark, all eyes peeled again. The biggest dangers are the incredible speed humps that come in 2s and 3s. Once upon a time, they may have been marked. There is evidence of very faded yellow triangles painted on some. There are some speed hump signs still vertical, but many are bent over, faded, or entirely gone. So, we just have to learn where to expect them, and watch the vehicles in front or oncoming. Some of these humps are so significant, they need naming. Ears popped as we dealt with the differential in altitude going over them. So, to encounter any of these black, unmarked, behemoth humps at a speed greater than 15 km/h leaves one wondering if the car suspension is still intact, or the contents of the boot may have bounced out.

Day 1 - airport to Sousse, going first to Monastir. Having that extra time in the afternoon, we worked out we wanted to see something significant before checking in, and overshooting to Monastir was the right amount before sunset.


Inside Ribat of Harthouma
Inside Ribat of Harthouma
Landmark tower inside the Monastir's beautiful ribat. A ribat is the name given to the small muslim forts that were built on the frontiers during muslim expansion in to north Africa.


"Life of Brian"	 Backdrop
"Life of Brian" Backdrop
Shooting location used by Monty Python. Inside Ribat Harthouma.


Our First Stop in Tunisia
Our First Stop in Tunisia
Late sun sends long shadows of palms against the walls of the ribat in Monastir.




On from Sousse, heading south, stopping at El Djem. Again, using the very cheap but well maintained toll roads, the distances are quickly covered.


One Entrance
One Entrance
Arches upon arches upon arches.


El Djem - Third Largest Roman Amphitheatre
El Djem - Third Largest Roman Amphitheatre


Picturesque and Evocative
Picturesque and Evocative
Exploring the many layers of what remains of the 3rd century amphitheatre of El Djem.




We had trouble contacting the hotel we thought we might try. The website seemed to have been hacked and hijacked, they did not answer our emails, and were not on any booking sites. Given it would also be a diversion of almost two hours if they were now closed, we almost changed our minds, but on a whim, headed to the town of Matmata. The hotel was there, open, and thus began our little circuit of Star Wars related locations.

We are not fanatical by any definition. Neither Jo nor myself are sure what proportion of any of episodes 1, 2, 3, 7, 8, or 9 we have seen. Bits and pieces here and there. But the original 3 were from our era, and particularly the first one, episode 4, we know well, and that is the one which had a lot filmed here. Less CGI, less studio work, and more on location filming. And George Lucas and the Star Wars franchise left quite the legacy for Tunisia.

Hotel Sidi Idriss was our stop, known as the Star Wars Hotel now. It was a hotel before that time, but now, it leverages that connection to great effect. It is possible and inexpensive to stay there, but many visitors stop in for a drink or meal while passing through. We did like being overnight guests, despite the simplicity of the accommodation.

The following day we went from location to location, many would have been interesting without any film connection, but the connection means greater effort on restoration and preservation of these sights.


Princess Leia Room
Princess Leia Room
We stayed at Hotel Sidi Idriss, Matmata. Each room in the hotel was named after a character from Star Wars, or a significant name associated with the franchise.

In actual fact, the hotel was already a hotel when chosen to be used in filming. A Berber village, and troglodyte cave structure, it would have been a fascinating stay, even without any movie association.


The Lars Dining Room of Star Wars
The Lars Dining Room of Star Wars
This hotel in Matmata, Tunisisa, was the filming location for Star Wars, episode 4. It was used for inside shots of the Lars Homestead, Luke's uncle and aunt.


Young Luke Skywalker Peered Over...
Young Luke Skywalker Peered Over...
We watched the scene from Star Wars, Episode 4, A New Hope. Just to familiarise ourselves with the scene, again. And then in the morning, worked out this is where Luke peers down to his aunt.


Ksar Hallouf
Ksar Hallouf
Restored 13th century granaries, used to film slave quarters scenes for Star Wars Episode 1: The Phantom Menace.


Ksar Hadada, Now a Hotel
Ksar Hadada, Now a Hotel
While many of the old structures are bare and open, many are converted to rooms of varying levels of comfort.


Mos Espa Slave Quarters: Episode 1
Mos Espa Slave Quarters: Episode 1
Another Star Wars film location.


Ksar Ouled Soltane
Ksar Ouled Soltane
Berber granaries.


More Star Wars
More Star Wars
The third Ksar in Tunisia used in filming slave quarter scenes for Star Wars Episode 1, The Phantom Menace.




Stops were made at locations unassociated with movies, too.


Ksar Beni Bakra
Ksar Beni Bakra
Not Star Wars connected. The desolate and largely unrestored hilltop ksar was ours alone for the full time we clambered through it.


Setting Sun on Chenini
Setting Sun on Chenini
We got to Chenini in the late afternoon, and wandered quite aimlessly till a bit past sunset. More than anything, the rapidly dropping temperature encouraged us to finish up.


Tawfik, Newly Friended
Tawfik, Newly Friended
After driving hours across the desolate nothingness, we reached the town of Douze. Perfect timing for a break.

Tawfik's little shop was chosen for a bite. A dancer and former Michael Jackson impersonator, he spoke good English and looked after our food needs with a couple of giant wraps.

We left him with a clip on koala to remember us by.


Crossing Chott el Djerid
Crossing Chott el Djerid
The road crosses the narrowest point of the salt flat, Chott el Djerid. Barren and featureless, almost horizon to horizon.




By now, day five of our circuit, we were working our way back north in the western part of Tunisia. Not far from the Algerian border, but more significantly, skirting around the fringes of the Sahara. Long straight strips of tarmac connecting oasis towns full of date plantations. When the wind whipped up, the swirls of sand became long fingers over the road, sometimes obscuring it completely. Getting in or out filled the inside of the car with a gritty cloud, and by the evening, we felt quite clogged up with nostrils and the corners of our eyes quite grainy. Even our mouths, with occasional crunching sensations between our teeth.

The men walking in these conditions had their peaked hoods pulled over, their robes wrapped tight to give as much protection as possible. The costume designers must have seen these, and known these practices, and extended it in to the Star Wars movies. "Look there, Obi-wan Kenobi" one of us would indicate. "Oh another over there," the other would reply. Soon we started numbering them. "That must be Obi-two Kenobi". "Obi-three Kenobi, now". We sort of gave up after Obi-twelve Kenobi...


Lars Homestead
Lars Homestead
The exterior of the Star Wars Lars Homestead. Just out there, on the salt flat. Follow the tracks left by other vehicles trekking out here. There was one unattended souvenir stall, with a plate of money, working on an honesty system.


The Star Wars Town of Mos Espa
The Star Wars Town of Mos Espa
The buildings are all fake, but holding up surprisingly well in the desert winds, considering they were built for Star Wars Episode 4.


Mos Espa
Mos Espa
This building did not even have an inside. The whole "town" was just three small streets, two intersections, and about 20 or so empty shell buildings.

And a lot of sand.

And a lot of souvenir stalls.




Heading back close to Tunis, day of our 34th anniversary, seems like a good time to break the Tunisia blog.


Our Coffee Stop
Our Coffee Stop
It was a very big day of driving, after making our two morning stops. We allowed ourselves a break for coffee, and probably more importantly, a toilet.

We found this large, quite open, building with a sign for coffee. We worked out they had two things available. Coffee, from a state of the cafe style espresso machine, and water pipes.

We had to take our own chairs from the stack, find and move a plastic table to sit at, and there we drank our 50 cent coffees.

Meanwhile, those seated around the other two tables barely looked up, as the men seemed quite engrossed in their card games. Good news when smoking a water pipe, you don't even need to use your hands. You can tuck the pip under your arm and bubble away, leaving your hands free to deal with the cards.


A Surprise Windmill
A Surprise Windmill
Winding our way across the back roads of Tunisia, we came across the unexpected sight of a very European looking windmill.

I just loved how this came out in the light, looking almost like a painting.