6 to 10 Jan, 2024 - Dougga, Elles, Tunis, Carthage, Sidi Bou Said - (Tunisia)
Installment two of our Tunisian blog begins in Dougga, a few hours out of Tunis. We ended up at a moderately upmarket hotel, not by direct choice, but by elimination: there were no other hotels. This was our anniversary night, so it was nice to be somewhere with a nice restaurant attached.
The next day, we visited Dougga. The wind was very chilly, and the rain came and went, never really getting heavy. This was one of the sights I was most looking forward to. Not so large and extensive as to require a full day investment, but still of great interest with some fascinating remains and excavations. In better weather, I'm sure we would have spent longer.
Roman Theatre, Dougga
Capable of seating 3500 people, the theatre was cut in the hill at the Roman city of Dougga. Jo on-stage, for perspective.
The "Capitol", Dougga
Part temple, part political, overlooking the Dougga market and forum.
Kind-a in the vicinity, we went to Elles to visit 4500 year old dolmen graves. Still cold and windy.
One of the Dolmen, Elles
Dolmen are tombs made of slabs of stone laid on top of each others. The dolmen in this area were quite long, with passages and multiple rooms leading off them. These dolmen are over 4500 years old.
Outdoor sites, in the cold wind, with intermittent showers - we were keen to complete the last long drive, getting us to Tunis, where a warm hotel room would be waiting.
Unfortunately, it was not going to be as simple as that...
The Tale of the Tourists who Drove to Tunis Medina
I am not just deflecting blame, I know this was all the fault of Google Maps navigation. Well, maybe some fault lies with the hotel.
Driving in to Tunis, well after dark, rain fairly heavy, trying to keep our calm with the nutty displays of local driving. A check of our reservation confirmation listed that the accommodation had parking. So, when Google had a plotted path to the front door, we followed.
A few turns from a main road, and we were driving along some narrow cobbled streets. We were not too concerned, there were other cars about. But the streets got narrower and the turns it proposed got tighter. At one point, it proposed a turn I knew we could not do successfully in the car, little as it was. So Google gave us an alternative.
I was convinced this must be the route - narrow, yes, but confidently marked. I had conviction, and we folded the mirrors in and progressed carefully... until a man shouted and stopped us. Where were we going? He warned us of the stairs coming ahead.
So, we had to back out. This took about 15 minutes, with mirrors folded, and 3 or 4 locals guiding us in the rain.
The whole saga felt like a cross between James Bond and the Griswalds.
We returned on foot, the following day, to take photos. Hmm, even in daylight, I might have attempted the manoeuvre. But rain or shine, day or night, we were not going to get our little Kia hire car down those stairs.
Our final days were spent in and around Tunis. Oh, and we were very happy to get the hire car returned, unscathed.
Roman Baths, Overlooking the Mediterranean
The remains of the Baths of Antoninus in Carthage, near Tunis.
Mosaic Slabs
At the Roman Villas site in Carthage, scores of mosaic slabs are laying about. We assume they are waiting for a more permanent home, given that they were none-too-shabby!
They did appear very random and forgotten. Not sure if they would notice one or two missing...
Sidi Bou Said
Sidi Bou Said is a beachside area, not too far from Tunis. It is the epitome of Mediterranean towns, with white washed walls contrasted with blue doors and shutters. Largely pedestrianised and an easy visit.
It Just Landed on My Head
OK, not really, but a photo had to be had.
Cat, Moped, Tunis Medina
All through the country, we have seen cats sitting in cute perches. Peering out windows, on ledges, sitting in boxes (as cats are want to do) or up on bar stools. Any where they can find to stay out from under-foot.
I thought this nonchalant feline, watching the medina busy-ness,a stand out example of such behaviour.
Mosaic Lined Baptismal
A 4th or 5th century baptismal, beautifully lined with mosaic tiles, pictures, patterns, and inscriptions. Bardo Museum in Tunis.
Bardo Museum, Tunis
With one of the world's largest collections of mosaics, the Bardo struggles to find space to display the wondrous pieces. There is a combination of thematic presentation, and a general chronological progression as one wanders through (assuming one starts at the beginning, which Jo tends not to do),
In the end, there are some examples so significant and so large, that presentation space has obviously been specifically designed and modified to hold it.
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