6 to 8 Oct, 2022 - Khiva - (Uzbekistan)
We chose to use the train to get to Khiva, since it is connected with Bukhara by multiple services a day. Late booking again limited our choices, and we ended up on an overnighter in the general sleeper, which was comfortable enough, and travelled at a pretty good time (departing close to midnight, arriving 8 am, with one stop around 7 in Urgench). There was another train at a similar time, going the other direction, and the lack of signage meant that, despite checking, we still went to sleep wondering what would happen if we woke up and found we had travelled 8 hours in the wrong direction. Not a really viable possibility, but still, a part of me was quite relieved to wake up in the right place.
A friend had rated Khiva as her favourite place in Central Asia when she had visited, not too long ago. It did not disappoint. It was beautiful. My criticism is that it felt a little too perfect - the streets of the old town had plenty of stalls with art and textiles, but there was a distinct lack of regular businesses - minimarkets, barbers, phone shops - hardly anything that a resident would need. The sights were close together, well maintained, and development controlled. Modern additions were disguised (airconditioners behind wooden screens, no antennae, no overhead wiring). Lots of guesthouses and hotels (generally beautiful and well blended), a few (maybe not enough) restaurants and cafes, and way too many souvenier sellers. Everything perfect for a visitor, but it struggled to feel like a lived in city.
Morning Approach to Khiva
We came on the overnight train from Bukhara, arriving at the very respectable time of 8 a.m. Khiva train station is east of the old centre, known as Ichon-Qala. So our pleasant walk to town accompanied the growing light on the walls, minarets, and domes.
Jo and the Towering Islom Hoja Minaret
Reminiscent of a light house, this is Uzbekistan's tallest. It is also the most recent built Islamic monument in Ichon-Qala, at a very young 112 years old.
Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum
Distinguished telework in the mausoleum of Khiva's patron saint, a 13th century poet, philosopher, and wrestler. Mulpiple pilgrims chose to ignore the signs asking visitors to not bow to the tombs, or kiss them, but nobody seemed interested in enforcing the posted requests. Thankfully there were no attempts to carry out the equally prohibited act of animal sacrifice.
Wall Burials
I don't know if it was law or superstition, but there was a time when anyone who died in the city had to be buried within the walls, and if a person were to perish while away, their body could not be brought in. These graves along the walls were probably for people who were supposed to rest within, but they met their demise while away, so this was the closest burial spot that could be used.
Atmospheric Juma Mosque
Hundreds of wooden pillars in the cool dark interior of this Khiva mosque create a calming and reflective mood. Some of the columns have come from the earliest mosque on this site, making them over 1000 years old.
Ichon-Qala Bathes in Late Afternoon Light
At the western end of town, from the watchtower in the old inner fortress.
Full Moon and Kalta Minor
The squat Kalta Minor Minaret was destined to be much taller. The death of the sponsor meant work stopped, and the project never resumed.
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