Current Travels

Coasting in Kerala


5 to 11 January, 2019 - Alappuzha, Kochi - (India)



This whole trip started with us getting a flight that worked with Kochi, and our plans had all revolved around visiting the Kerala backwaters. So, it would have been an ironic twist had we not got there. And we nearly didn't. We were so enjoying the lazy pace we had taken up in Tamil Nadu, and we were tempted to add a couple of in-between stops from Kodaikanal to Kochi.

We bit the bullet, and took an overnight bus from Kodai to the coast, and then another bus to Allepey (Alappuzha). Here we organised a house boat for our anniversary and it was a highlight of the trip to punt around rather casually for 24 hours and be waited upon.

Kingfisher Surveying a Fish Farm
Kingfisher Surveying a Fish Farm
I guess a fish farm is like a food mall for a kingfisher. there are still gaps and holes in the net, and he seems to know where all of them are.


Our House Boat...
Our House Boat...
..and a random boy who insisted on being in the photo.


To Get our Anniversary Started
To Get our Anniversary Started
A variety of fruits greeted us when we got on board. We were Lord and Lady Much for 24 hours.


Now, THAT's a Prawn
Now, THAT's a Prawn
Bought fresh and cooked for our lunch, each one was a meal in itself. We had a chef and a "captain" to look after us.


Other Houseboats
Other Houseboats
Other houseboats plying the waters near Alleppey.


Where We Spent the Night
Where We Spent the Night
We tied up at a village, close to where the chef lived. He spent the night at home with his family.


Boats in Alleppey
Boats in Alleppey
Tour boats lined up in Alleppey.


Scene from the Ferry
Scene from the Ferry
We took a ferry some of the way south from Alleppey. While it did not go in the back waters, it did glimpse river life and activity a bit differently.


And our final few days were in Kochi. It's back on the trail, with (relatively) large numbers of foreign tourists. With that comes touts and souvenier shops. Prices for food and services slip out of proportion, but choice and variety expand.

We sight-sawed a bit, and we lazed a lot. We did a cooking course. We had seafood on the waterfront where we ate two amazing dishes - calamari stuffed with prawns and cashew nuts, and a fish cooked in banana leaf that may just rate as one of the best fish dishes we have ever eaten.

A Nap on an Old Doorstep
A Nap on an Old Doorstep

Clocktower in Kochi
Clocktower in Kochi
Clocktower at the Kardesi Synagogue.


Chinese Fishing Nets
Chinese Fishing Nets
The large Chinese Fishing Nets are, we believe, an unofficial symbol of the city of Kochi. Four men are needed to work each of the nets.


Richard Makes Aloo Dum
Richard Makes Aloo Dum
While in Kochi, we did a cooking class with Maria. Some recipes given out, some discussion about what should and should not be mixed together. The best part was learning some of the techniques: waiting for the moisture to leave the mixture, and for the oil to form around, before moving on to the next step; adding the powders over the top of the mixture and folding it through, rather than just mixing, so the powders don't burn; searing the marinated meat before adding it to your mixture, so the raw flavours from the marinade don't go back in your sauce. The aloo dum is a North Indian Potato dish.


Jo Kneading the Dough
Jo Kneading the Dough
Maria showed us how to make a variety of parathas and chapatis with the same basic dough. We focused on an aloo paratha, a potato stuffed version.


Looking Up - Santa Cruz Cathedral
Looking Up - Santa Cruz Cathedral
Interior of Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica in Kochi.


Dutch Cemetery, Fort Cochin
Dutch Cemetery, Fort Cochin

Possibly the Best Fish Dish Ever
Possibly the Best Fish Dish Ever
The remnants of what was possibly the best fish dish we have ever eaten. Served in a banana leaf on the shore at Fort Kochi. We also had squid, stuffed with cashew nuts and prawns. A fantastic final dinner for our time in India.


Thanks, India, for another wonderful trip. Especially the food!

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