Current Travels

Of Corse we Can

6 to 10 July, 2018 - Les Calanques de Piana, Bonifacio, Pinarello, Corte, Bastia - (Corsica, France)



We have had to say no to visiting Corsica on a few occasions, but this trip it was locked in. Ferries booked; car hire confirmed; expectations set. Our ferry from Marseille went overnight. Having splurged for a cabin, we slept very soundly. But then the boat arrived early, which did not at all suit us at all - we were awoken mid dreaming and then had to go ashore to find breakfast in Ajaccio to fill in time before the rental agency opened for business.

Departing Marseille
Departing Marseille
On the ferry, leaving Marseille, on our way to Ajaccio, Corsica.


Day one on the island we worked our way up and down the west coast. Many stops for photos, and I must confess not all were at safe places on the road. This was punctuated by dodgy u-turns, unsafe reversing, and running across the road on blind corners. No amount of danger should prevent the photographic capture of a beautiful scene.

Camembert Ice-cream
Camembert Ice-cream
It was way more delicious than it sounds. And we weren't getting anywhere near enough dairy in our diet.


Les Calanques de Piana
Les Calanques de Piana
On the west side of Corsica, a road runs ten kilometres or so along the coast, from Porto to Piana. Amazing views are just the start of the beauty in this stretch. The rusty ochre rock formations light up in the sun. Their peculiar shapes and forms inspire the imagination to perceive faces or animals. There were some stretches where we would only drive a few hundred metres before needing to stop for another photo. I believe we were quite the road hazard, stopping, backing up, turning around in tight spots.


View of Porto
View of Porto
The seaside village of Porto - one of the few spots along this coast where the road drops to sea level.


Les Calanques de Piana
Les Calanques de Piana
A more detailed shot of some of the rocky crags which make this drive so magnificent.


Love Love
Love Love

A lovely campsite for night one. Day two - down to Bonifacio at the southen part of the island. What we had not counted on was a fortuitous good timing with the Bonifacio light festival, festi lumi. This was a mini "white night", with the emphasis on light based entertainment. There were various entertainers about, art installations, and they combined to make the city a beautiful space to wander through and absorb. We spent four or more hours inside the citadel after sunset.

Part of the time was spent in the midst of a crowd, out the front of a bar, watching Croatia in a penalty shoot out with Russia. It was less about the game, and more about the atmosphere. 15 minutes of roars and sighs. It was difficult to work out exactly which side the crowd was on, and we got the feeling they were not caring so much about the winner but were just involved in the skills.

Moules et Frites
Moules et Frites
We've been hanging out for mussels since, well, before we even left Australia!


Citadel of Bonifacio
Citadel of Bonifacio
A stocky fortress in the south of Corsica. Bonifacio was a real highlight of the island.


Looking out from Bonifacio
Looking out from Bonifacio
The Bouches de Bonifacio, as viewed from the citadel.


Lanterns in Bonifacio
Lanterns in Bonifacio
As the night set in, the lanterns of the light festival lit up the labrynth of alleys within the citadel.


Video Projection
Video Projection
A captivating cycle of videos played on a pair of buildings at the western end of town. We watched the whole sequence many times. This is the face of Espace Saint-Jacques.


Silhouettes
Silhouettes
Reverse silhouettes were cast on walls in numerous locations around town. Children enjoyed adding their own shapes to the scenes. A video plays on the surface of an old tower in the background.


An Art Installation
An Art Installation
A mixture of music, light, and video brought this character through a range of incredible stages. It stirred emotions - Jo commenting that she found some of it disturbing. Job done, then, from the artist's perspective.


Video Projection
Video Projection
This is a still from the video projection on the tourist information building of Bonifacio.


The Walls of Bonifacio Lit up for the Light Festival
The Walls of Bonifacio Lit up for the Light Festival

The camping continued. Bonifacio, Pinarello, and Bastia. Each location different - each with its advantages. However, there was a major downside to our Bastia campsite. Its good location - near town - means that it was right next to a night club. We were forewarned, but it was qualified with "most Mondays they are not open". This Monday, they were. The music cranked up at 22:30, and thumped through tent until 2:00. It was actually harder to tolerate due to the DJ's general good choice of music. So we lay in bed, cross about the situation, singing along in our heads.

Picnic on the Rocks
Picnic on the Rocks
Pinarello. The beach was very nice, but for picnicking we headed on to the rocks. The setting sun lit up the Genoese tower on the little island.


Corte Citadel, Central Corsica
Corte Citadel, Central Corsica
Corte, a once was, and short-lived, capital of the island. Geographically, and to some extent culturally, the heart of Corsica.


Nid d'Aigle
Nid d'Aigle
The citadel in Corte is called Nid d'Aigle, the Eagle's Nest.


Riddled by Bullets
Riddled by Bullets
A battle scarred building in Corte.


Morning light on Bastia
Morning light on Bastia

Vieux Port, Bastia
Vieux Port, Bastia

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